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Disclaimer: I didn't think I had to say this, but my reviews are my opinions. While they are intended to be useful to the reader they are not intended to be unbiased, objective discussions of the game. You can get that elsewhere. My reviews reflect my opinion of the game's merits. This is part of the IWTRTMTWWW (I Write the Reviews That Make the Whole World Whine) series, as are all my reviews.

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I purchased Balmy Balloonists before I got married, so that must have been just about the time the game was released. I don't know where I purchased it. It is a self-published game by BGG's own Rick Heli and Phil Vogt and was probably issued in small quantity, as the back of the box is numbered (in this case, #83).

The theme, as you might expect, is a balloon race. It's interesting that balloon racing is such a popular game theme (Balloon Cup, The Great Balloon Race, Montgolfiere, and surely others) when it's not exactly a popular real world activity. ESPN will televise spelling bees and Magic: the Gathering competitions, yet I can't say that I've seen balloon racing on that network.

Components
You get a lot of stuff in the box.

- playing pieces are little plastic balloons which can be attached to disk-shaped "risers" to indicate their altitude (ground, low, medium, or high)

- cards are perforated cardstock which are sufficient for a game such as this (ie, one that won't be played every week multiple times); you get cards for local winds, Northern hemisphere quadrant prevailing winds, advantages, and whammies (which the designer/publisher calls "misfortune")


- a gameboard and colored tokens; the board is not mounted, but is laminated. Thus, it will not lie flat on the table, which is particularly problematic for the "windrose" tokens (little pawns that sit at the dead center of the board, where four ridges and valleys meet). The little tokens are thin plastic disks and are used to indicate fuel, gas (helium), and ballast (BGGers who complain, just kidding).

- you also get two little grey pawns which sit on the windrose mentioned above and a storm marker which is necessary for an optional rule and six baggies to hold the six colors of playing pieces plus appropriate plastic disks for each player. You need to supply two additional baggies to hold the decks of cards

The components are nice, particularly for home-grown production. However, they're overkill. From the picture of the map above, you can see that things get cluttered very quickly. While the discs are cute, they're unnecessary, as players could track their fuel, gas, and ballast expenditures on paper or even on a communal resource track. Maybe if they'd just used little plastic cubes (the size of El Grande cubes), the Clutter Factor could have been mitigated. In hindsight, I wonder if the publisher thinks smaller resource tokens and a mounted board (or even a single-piece rolled board) would have made for a better playing experience.

Finally, the game begs for player color identifier tokens. The only pieces in the game which are associated with a player's color are the balloon and three risers. Oft times, all four of those pieces are on the board, leaving opponents to wonder who is playing "red" or "blue." I know, plenty of people will say, "It's not that hard to remember who is blue." True enough. But this game is designed for players to play two colors (unless you have four or more players). When one player is playing the role of two different colors, it gets confusing fast. "Which color am I moving now--the one on my left--is that the yellow or the black?"

Rules
The rules are straightforward, but not particularly well-written. It appears that this game was specifically targeted to attempt to find a major German game company to reprint it, as German is the first language used on the box and in the rulebook. Is it possible that retranslating to English made for slightly less-readible rules?

Anyway, each turn, a player's color does the following, in order:

1) Play a local wind card. These cards are played from your hand to the table face-up in front of you. Each such card shows the three levels of ascent (low, medium, and high). Beside each level is a picture showing which direction and how far you move (two northwest, one southeast, or no move at all). This allows you to "change lanes" as the board is divided into five lanes from Lane 1 (near the arctic circle) to Lane 5 (near the Equator). If prevailing winds (see later) are favorable in a different lane, you want to play a local wind card to move you to those better lanes.

Note: these icons are confusing. You'll see two little lane spaces with an arrow, which indicates movement of only one space. Iconic references are a systemic problem with this game.

This is all fine, you use the winds at your disposal to get into the proper lane so that you move quickly in this race. However, there's a special kludge in this game to force interactivity/conflict. Once you've got three cards lying on the table in front of you, you're not allowed to play from your hand to the table as described above. Instead, you must play from the three cards in front of you to the discard pile and the effect shown on the card you discard must be applied to an opponent (and only one of two opponents, as noted on the constantly-changing windrose in the middle of the board). For instance, you may have a card you played awhile ago that shows one north drift for low-level flying, no movement for mid-level, and two southern lane movements from the high-level. You discard this and must play it on either yellow or black (if that's what the windrose says). If you are, in fact, yellow or black, you can't play it on yourself. So, you affect someone else's movement with your discard.

This part feels very Mille Bornes-ish to me. You're not attempting to help yourself at all with this maneuver, but instead are just fiddling with someone else's best laid plans. Furthermore, there is often a "?" at the bottom of the card you are discarding. When that is present, you can choose not to push your opponent's balloon around with wind but, instead, flip over the next "whammie" (misfortune) card from the deck to see what ill befalls them. They could have a mechanical malfunction (like, running out of gas or having a flat tire in Mille Bornes) or they could encounter bad weather. Whatever, it won't be good. There is a chance that they will be able to counter this misfortune with one of their precious two "Advantage" cards they were dealt at the start of the game ("Coup fourre!"). Otherwise, they often lose a turn or something like that. Aleternatively, there could be a little Trivial Pursuit pie-piece icon at the bottom of the card you discard. In that case, you can choose to change the prevailing winds card in the target player's quadrant (often your own quadrant).

Speaking of the cards, this is a good time to mention that the game, in an attempt to be language-independent, went overboard on the icons and many of them just miss completely, making us wonder what it was supposed to mean. See below for some examples:


2) Move your balloon up or down. You can spend some of your gas or ballast to lower or rise your balloon, which you indicate by adding or removing risers below your playing piece.

3) Move forward on the board. In each quadrant of the board is a prevailing winds card or current or jet stream or something like that. What it shows is movement for any of the 15 combinations of player position (Lane 1 through 5, height low, medium, or high). Cross-reference your current position with the card and move accordingly. The card could say you move backwards 1 or forward 5 or pretty much anything in between.

4) Check to see if you have to throw away tokens (either because you're out of gas chips or because you're flying high and don't want to waste ballast on your next turn, in which case you toss a fuel now)

5) If you played a local wind card from your hand this turn, replenish it from the draw deck.

That's it. You adjust your balloon throughout the game to try to be first to circle the globe.

Our Game (2-player, each playing two ballons)
First let me tell you what we didn't do. We didn't play nasty. This game seems to be geared for those who enjoy "take that"/Mille Bornes style games where you are constantly pushing your adversaries back. We didn't do that. Not that we're against it, but it sure makes for a long game if everyone is losing turns or being forced up into the Arctic (where you go back a ways) or down to the Equator (where you lose turns until you draw the proper card). In 1978, I would have loved that aspect of the game, as I had long periods of time to while away around the gameboard. But now, turning a 90 minute game into a two-hour-plus affair just isn't my idea of fun. So, we didn't ever push an opponent off the board though we did use "whammie" cards once or twice if we had to.

Essentially, we played the best cards we could for the first three turns, raising and lowering our balloons and letting local winds blow us into the proper lane to move forward. My white balloon built up a big lead while my black balloon lingered with the other two (my wife's). The rules state that it's the first to get both balloons across the finish who wins the game.

After three turns of this, we had to start playing table cards on other people. As we were playing two colors each, this often meant that we could give a boost to our other color, rather than having to play Dastardly Dan and harm an opponent. Usually, if we couldn't help our alternate color, we discarded to alter the prevailing winds, rather than issue a whammie (misfortune) or move an opponent's balloon off course.

Then the game dragged. The game is quite repetitive (even when you use whammies, which usually made my wife lose a turn, as it turned out). I think some of the short scenarios (trans-Atlantic flight, e.g.) might be better choices for us, as they could be concluded more rapidly. But that wouldn't save the set-up time and fiddle time of moving tokens around and flipping through cards. In short, the game bogs down and is not only repetitive, but fiddly-repetitive. A lot like the hand-jive in Grease. You're not only playing the game, but you're playing a card, putting that deck down (because you're playing two colors), tossing away chips to rise, adjusting risers under the balloons, moving the balloon, grabbing another chip to discard, drawing a card to put with the proper color's hand, and then starting the process again for your other color.

Our game as we reached Asia--my white balloon had a commanding lead

It took 90 minutes to complete. For the record, I won, but in fact, we both won.

Verdict
I doubt this one will hit the table again, so it's on the trade heap at BGG (if I can get a new copy of Sixmix, otherwise, eBay awaits). I think that it could be a good game by reducing the fiddly components and, for my tastes, ditching the "take that" elements. It feels like playing Liftoff! or the afore-mentioned Mille Bornes. If you invest in playing dozens of times (as the designers no-doubt did), you can get a lot of mileage out of it, by directly attacking opponents or letting "the fates" do that for you. But I suspect the games would run quite awhile, and I just don't have the time or patience for that anymore. I guess I've grown to dislike games where one loses turns, rather than simply has to choose alternate options for a couple of turns.

If I were to play again, I'd eliminate the whammie and Advantage cards completely. I'd also do away with the windrose markers. I'd have only one type of token (15 to 18 of 'em to each player) which can be used to raise or lower the balloon prior to movement--I just don't see need for tracking three resources in this game). After three cards have been played to the board, I'd allow players to discard them to affect either the prevailing winds cards or to move their own or their other color's balloon or just to discard them period. There would be no direct conflict other than adjustment of the prevailing winds cards. In fact, that appeals to me and I may have give that a go before passing the game along.

The curmudgeon has spoken, so be the word.
Nello Cozzolino
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this boardgame is worth a fortune ...
i hope Rick has some copies ->...... left.... over...
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nello wrote:
this boardgame is worth a fortune ...
i hope Rick has some copies ->...... left.... over...
www.spotlightongames.com
Seriously? It looked to me like the Web site you listed shows them selling for $30 each.
Last edited on 2007-10-15 14:31:47 CST (Total Number of Edits: 1)
Nello Cozzolino
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Randy Cox wrote:
nello wrote:
this boardgame is worth a fortune ...
i hope Rick has some copies ->...... left.... over...
www.spotlightongames.com
Seriously? It looked to me like the Web site you listed shows them selling for $30 each.


30 bucks..great price !! thanks for the information........
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Balmy Balloonists » Forums » Reviews
Re: Retro Game in So Many Ways?
Hey Randy,

Thanks for the review! Great to see this feedback, even if we had to wait 7 years for it. ;)

Re edition size, yes, only a couple hundred copies were made.

Re the theme, just after the first successful balloon circumnavigation, there was an attempt to set up an annual around the world race. This was the concept of the game. But somehow that idea never, uh, got off the ground. And now one of the men who probably would have been a main competitor has gone missing somewhere in Nevada. I'm speaking of Steve Fossett, who we can hope will still turn up somewhere safe and sound.

Re the board lying flat, no doubt it could have been better. Gentle backfolding will help if you haven't tried it yet. Or try one of those plexiglas sheets that you have left over from war games? A mounted board would have been great, but would have added a lot to costs, especially in a small print run. Probably we would have decided not to publish at all had we set our hearts on that.

Re the bits, we thought about tracks for the items, but they get dislodged so easily. More importantly, having and spending items is a far superior and more intuitive conceptual model over tracks, so we greatly preferred it. We used chips (winks) because they turned out to cost less than cubes.

Re player identification, the reason why the rosette is in the center of the board and the way we imagined color identification working was that each player would pick one of the compass arrows and sit so that it pointed to him. Not sure if you tried that or if it worked for you. Of course it is a little more confusing when people are each playing two colors, but on the other hand, in that case it might not be so hard to remember that "every which is not mine is yours", since it's likely a two-player game. Anyway, even then, players can take two adjacent points on the compass. We do admit that that still leaves issues for the color blind, but we did omit having green pieces to avoid the red-green color blindness issue, which is the most common kind.

Re the instructions, the English rules were definitely written only in English and probably the German version is worse than the English one so I wish I could find out more about what didn't work for you about them. The reason for the German rules to appear in the rule book first is that the game was premiering and meant to be mostly sold at Essen Spiel. A helpful hint though: you can back fold the rules so that the English part is first and they still work.

Re the icons, probably we were too ambitious in our hope that everything could be adequately explained with icons. We found it a harder-than- expected problem and I was personally still not entirely satisfied in all the cases. On the other hand, the alternatives were (a) German-only cards, (b) English-only cards, (c) bilingual cards. Of these, considering that we wanted the game to work for both languages, I find the icons least annoying. Did all your intended comments on the icons get into the review by the way? It sounds like you meant to include more details on these, which would be interesting to me.

We did put the icon pictures on the back of the rules book in the hopes that they would be easy to reference if necessary.

Re "take that": actually we had in mind not only "take that", but also "give this" (to coin a phrase).

I think that if you were to omit this part of the system, you would sometimes find some balloon getting so far out in front that there was absolutely no way to slow it down. The game clearly needs something akin to the Settlers of Catan robber to keep the race interesting.

But note also that card play doesn't have to be negative. All you actually need to do is play a card on another balloon. If you find that you can't play to slow down the leader, why not play to help out the balloon that is lagging behind? Then there is every chance that this player will remember you when his turn comes along and either help you a bit or slow down the balloon in front, whichever has the largest payoff. This works when one is playing multiple balloons also. Try to play your card so as to help your other balloon if you can. So actually a lot of planning can go into this game if you get into estimating who is going to play what, where the pawns will be and where the balloons will be by the time your next turn rolls around.

But anyway, what we had in mind, and what we saw in all our playtests, even the blind ones, was not "take that", but co-opetition (that is, cooperation and competition). It's only been since publication that we've been hearing about some gruesomely nasty games, so perhaps our game depends too much on more on a particular style of play than we imagined.

Re repetitiveness, this is a problem that afflicts many racing games it seems. We tried to address it by varying the geography and via the card play rules (the ones you didn't like), but I suppose they may not work for everyone.

Sorry you didn't like the game more, but once again, appreciate all the honest feedback, which as any game inventor knows, is generally hard to come by. Of course one tends to get too little of it when it would really be useful, like before publication, and rather a lot of it when it's too late, i.e. after publication, but hey, that's life.

cheers,
Rick

P.S. We have one copy of the game left plus a deluxe edition with handmade pieces that we're thinking about how to sell off.
Last edited on 2007-10-15 18:57:24 CST (Total Number of Edits: 2)
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Thanks for the response, Rick. I hope the review didn't sound to negative. Really and truly, given some of the other games we've played recently, this one isn't in the bottom portion. While it's not for me (just too long and fiddly), I can imagine quite a few people, particularly people who can play the longer games in a game group every week, who might enjoy it.

In fact, I think I've found someone who wants it and I like to get games to a "good home," especially if I can pick up something in return. :)

I'm also glad to hear that all 200 sold out, even if it took seven years. I suspect that as soon as I trade it away, it'll become worth $150 on the aftermarket.

As to the icons, I didn't want to pull out the game to go through and itemize our problems, but I'll just say that icons usually don't do it for me (particularly the icons on the board that are supposed to tell you the turn sequence). In fact, my wife saw it and thought, "Oh no, a game with so many phases like Die Macher that you need a road map." Turns out, the sequence is so simple that I don't think you even need the board icons.

I do wonder, though, if you ever tried distilling all resources into a single color of "wink." It seems that the game would work just as well, since fuel can be substituted for gas and ballast in phase 4 and 5 anyway. So why not just have one resource?
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Thanks, Randy.

I guess our groups tend to play faster than most. I'm one of those annoying guys who's always telling you it's your turn and why aren't you finished already. ;) It seems we have quite a few of those types around here. :)

Good to hear that when it comes to icons all we have to fear is fear itself. ;)

Re the winks, while it's true that fuel can be used instead of either gas or ballast, it's kind of hard to say that gas and ballast, having opposite effects, could substitute for one another. But also we thought that keep those different helped the theme quite a bit. Drop ballast to go up. Less gas makes you go down. This is what real life ballooning is all about.
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