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18XX Quickstart Packages
Alan Winterrowd
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Bluffton
Indiana
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I have recently become interested in acquiring and playing some of the 18XX games, but I have a problem. No one in this area, that I have found, plays them. This puts me in the position of trying to teach games, that I am pretty new at, to others.

I know that in my first game, we began buying and bidding on privates, and I had absolutely no clue what they did, so figuring out how much they were worth was a non-starter.

What I would like to get are some game startups, for various games, for various numbers of players. These could be from actual games with experienced players, or an experienced players opinion on what would be a balanced starting point for new players. I would like for these to be at the point at which the privates have been purchased, and the each player has purchased the starting share of a company, so that the pars have been set. This would allow me to start the game in the stock round, with the players finishing out the stock round to float their companies, then heading into op rounds.

Feel free to add new games, if you have a good set up position for them. If I can find players, I will look to buy new games!
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Popular Tags: 18xx [+] train [+] [View All]
1. Board Game: 18AL [Average Rating:7.48 Overall Rank:636]
Alan Winterrowd
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Bluffton
Indiana
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This would be a perfect start, as I have a print and play copy, have played a simplified version of the game, and am in a 3 player PBeM currently. It is a shorter game, which also makes it an easier sell.
 
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Alan Winterrowd
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This is the start from the PBeM that I am in. I will not claim that it is a great start, especially as Player 2 (me) is very inexperienced. I have it here for an example of what I am interested in.

Player 1: $320 Cash, 2 shares WRA, par $60, S&N AL, ND Yards

Player 2: $355 Cash, 2 Shares M&O, par $75, Tuscumbia, B&S LC

Player 3: $345 Cash, 2 Shares L&N, par $75, M&C, Stock priority

L&N is on top of M&O for move priority
 
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  • Posted Fri Apr 27, 2007 4:35 pm
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Chris Shaffer
United States
Portland
Oregon
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I'm in this game also and the auction ended nearly before it started. I'm used to considerably more money being spent in the private auction, limiting the values at which you can start the first companies.
 
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  • Posted Mon Apr 30, 2007 9:19 pm
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Chris Shaffer
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For new players, quick-ending auctions are probably best, as that leaves more money in hand. I also suggest limiting to 3 players allowing each to control two companies. 18AL with four and five players is very cutthroat. Here are some suggested quick starts:

Quick Start A

This is very balanced, as each player has $110 or $120 of companies to loot. It also promotes early interaction, as all three companies have incentives to build toward the middle.

Auction
Player 1: Bid $45 S&N AL
Player 2: Bid $105 M&C
Player 3: Bid $125 ND Yards
Player 1: Bid $75 B&S LC
Player 2: Buy Tuscumbia $20 (remaining privates sold automatically)

Player 1: [600] S&N AL $45, B&S LC $75 [480]
Player 2: [600] Tuscumbia $20, M&C $105 [475]
Player 3: [600] ND Yards $125 [475]

Stock Round
Player 3: [475] Par L&N $75, buy president's certificate $150 [325]
Player 1: [480] Par WRA $75, buy president's certificate $150 [330]
Player 2: [475] Par ABC $75, buy president's certificate $150 [325]

Quick Start B

This one isn't as obviously balanced, though I'd be happy to play any of the sides, each of which has strengths/weaknesses. It lets everyone play in their own sandbox at the beginning of the game.

Auction
Player 1: Bid $45 S&N AL
Player 2: Bid $105 M&C
Player 3: Bid $75 B&S LC
Player 1: Buy Tuscumbia $20 (S&N AL, M&C, B&S LC sold automatically)
Player 2: Buy ND $120

Player 1: [600] Tuscumbia $20, S&N AL $45 [535]
Player 2: [600] M&C $105, ND $120 [375]
Player 3: [600] B&S LC $75 [525]

Stock Round
Player 3: [525] Par WRA $60, buy president's certificate $120 [405]
Player 1: [535] Par TAG $75, buy president's certificate $150 [385]
Player 2: [375] Par M&O $60, buy president's certificate $120 [255]
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  • Posted Sun May 27, 2007 1:58 am
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Alan Winterrowd
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Thanks, Chris! This is exactly what I was looking for.

I will print these off and put them with the game.
 
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  • Posted Mon Jun 4, 2007 1:07 am
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2. Board Game: 18GA [Average Rating:7.36 Overall Rank:1488]
Alan Winterrowd
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Bluffton
Indiana
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Another shorter game, which I have a print and play version of (or will have once I finish cutting this one out.
 
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3. Board Game: 1870 [Average Rating:7.40 Overall Rank:460]
Alan Winterrowd
United States
Bluffton
Indiana
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I have played this one, and own a copy. Not my first choice for a beginner player, although it was my first 18xx game.
 
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Ben Foy
United States
Ellicott City
Maryland
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This game uses the 'standard' 18xx bidding system. There are 5 privates and the SLSF president's share. I will go through them from highest to lowest.

Missouri-Kansas-Texas: This company comes with a Katy share and is worth alot. Depending on the number of players, it can be worth over $200. Note: you need enough $ left over to open a company in a reasonable timeframe so don't spend too much if you go after this company.

SLSF President's share: $140-145. Good players will force you to buy additional shares to keep this.

Gulf Shipping: Can easily go over $100. Adds $20 to the value of a city.

Southern Cattle: This is worth $60-80. Adds $10 to the value of a city.

Miss Bridge: This is worth $50-70. Allows building across the Miss and extra tile lay.

TGRSC: Worth $20. Buy this when you have a advantage in the bidding. For example, you have the lone bid on a company and all the other companies (except the SLSF) have multiple bids. Alternately if you have nothing better to do, then buying this is good to. But look at your opponents positions first.
 
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  • Posted Mon Apr 30, 2007 8:06 pm
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Chris Shaffer
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Here's a review of the openings for 1870.

http://freespace.virgin.net/chris.lawson/18xx/1870/1870c.htm...
 
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  • Posted Fri Jun 8, 2007 7:20 pm
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4. Board Game: 18Scan [Average Rating:7.49 Overall Rank:1612]
Alan Winterrowd
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Bluffton
Indiana
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I have ordered this one, but am not sure how long before it will be shipped.
 
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Gregg Lutz
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Hilliard
Ohio
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I am truly enamoured with this game and I have some distinct opinions on it as well. The game is best with 3 players. With that in mind: in the initial auction, never let a player gain 2 Minor companies. Having 2 minor companies gives that player too much early cash which is key to gaining an advantage in 18xx.

I prefer M2 & M3 because unless you score #1 with the DSB, whoever owns the DSB should select against M1 in their tile placement. Any cross pollenation between different players owning M1 and DSB is playing "mamsy-pamsy," lets all hug game play.

Note: the "mamsy-pamsy" is a direct quote from the designer David Hecht, when we recently enjoyed gaming together in Virginia.
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  • Posted Tue May 1, 2007 12:46 pm
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David Hecht
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Alexandria
VA
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Did I really say "mamsy-pamsy"? It's not really one of my phrases..."namby-pamby", perhaps? And for this particular situation, I'd probably say "care-bear", anyhow...
 
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  • Posted Sat May 26, 2007 5:20 am
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Alan Winterrowd
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I have heard a lot of good things about this game, so I am looking forward to getting it.
 
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  • Posted Mon Jun 4, 2007 1:14 am
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Gregg Lutz
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barzai wrote:
Did I really say "mamsy-pamsy"? It's not really one of my phrases..."namby-pamby", perhaps? And for this particular situation, I'd probably say "care-bear", anyhow...


Now that's a direct quote from the designer... I apologize for the fuzziness of my recollection.

In my book "namby-pamby," "care-bear," and "namsy-pamsy" all convey the idea that "playing nice" is not always in your best interest.

 
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  • Posted Mon Jun 11, 2007 7:30 pm
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5. Board Game: 18EU [Average Rating:7.77 Overall Rank:874]
Alan Winterrowd
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Bluffton
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Another game I have ordered, but delivery time is up in the air.
 
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Ben Foy
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I enjoy playing this game but the bidding for privates is really vicious and much more complicated than normal. There are 15 privates (I think) numbered 1-15. Each player puts a private up for bid. The price of the private can go up or down depending on the first bidding round. If someone bids on the private in that round, then the bids have to go higher until everyone passes. But if no one bids on it, then the price starts dropping in $5 increments until someone buys it.

The really good Privates are 1, 2, 3, 12.
The rest of the northern privates can be good.
The southern privates of 5, 6, 8, 10 and 11 are crappy.

The southern privates typically sell in the $60-70 range. Though its possible to get some for less if you own the 8 and 5.

The 1 is boring. But it cranks out very good $ until it goes away.
The 2 usually builds into the 12 for alot of $.
The 3 can easily connect into the 13, 14 and 15 for good $.
 
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  • Posted Mon Apr 30, 2007 5:40 pm
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Matt Campbell
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Lincoln
Nebraska
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It is important to note that if the same player owns 13 and 14 they can make the 1, 2, 3 and 12 companies look crappy. Serious synergies can be had when you get some companies adjacent, even in the south which is normally a bad position.
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  • Posted Tue May 1, 2007 3:20 pm
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Ben Foy
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Yes, you are right about synergies being important. Even if you are overstating the value of the 13-14 combo. There are certain obvious strats for the different privates.

1 and 9 will immediately build to the edge and collect cash until they merge.
2 and 12 usually build toward each other, even if they are owned by different players.
5 will build to the edge and then build toward 10 or 11.
8 will build toward 6 or 11.

But are lots of things the 3, 4, 7, 13, 14 and 15 privates can do. And once 2 and 12 finish building toward one another, they both tend to do alot of additional track building. One of my favorite combos is 7 and 12. 3, 13 and 14 is also very powerful.
 
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  • Posted Tue May 1, 2007 5:31 pm
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Gregg Lutz
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Hilliard
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Another game I realy enjoy. I have a "house rule" that has been adopted by most people I know that are familiar with this game. It goes:

"If anyone gets more than the equal distribution of minor comapnies, then whoever has the most is declared the winner and we re-start the game."

An example is that in a 3 player game if the distribution is 6-4-5 whoever has 6 should, without gross missteps on their part, win the game. We declare whoever has 6 as the "winner," saving three hours and play another game.

Cheers!
 
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  • Posted Mon Jun 11, 2007 7:38 pm
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6 comments [Hide]
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Hilary Hartman
United States
Wilmore
Kentucky
My avatar was cross-stitched by my wife, Robin! She's cool like that, not to mention being one helluva ASL opponent.
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I appreciate this list, as I have been thinking I need to add a train game (beyond TTRE) to the collection. The print and play games sound interesting, but I was wondering which of these others is the way to go? What about Empire Builder?

Thanks!
 
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  • Posted Fri Apr 27, 2007 5:50 pm
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Alan Winterrowd
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puck4604 wrote:
I appreciate this list, as I have been thinking I need to add a train game (beyond TTRE) to the collection. The print and play games sound interesting, but I was wondering which of these others is the way to go? What about Empire Builder?

Thanks!


I enjoy both the 18XX games and the Empire Builder series, but they are very different types of games. The Empire Builder (or crayon rails) games, are fairly easy to understand, take 3 hours plus, have a significant luck factor. Despite the luck factor, skill is still highly rewarded. These are games for players who want to lay track a nd deliver goods.

The 18XX games have no luck factor other than rolling or drawing to see who goes first. They revolve as much around the stock market as they do the railroads themselves. They tend to take longer than the crayon rails games, and can take MUCH longer for the larger ones.

18AL seems to be an excellent game. It is one of the print and play games, but it is of excellent quality. There are a couple of play by post games on the forums that you can use to follow the flow of 18AL or 18GA, to get a general feel of the 18XX games.

I would say, from my own experience, it is easier to get players for the crayon rails games than for 18XX. They are lighter and a bit faster than the 18XX, although still longer than the 45 minutes or so that TTR games take.
 
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  • Posted Fri Apr 27, 2007 7:17 pm
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Hilary Hartman
United States
Wilmore
Kentucky
My avatar was cross-stitched by my wife, Robin! She's cool like that, not to mention being one helluva ASL opponent.
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Thanks for the tips. I downloaded the parts for 18AL, but will most likely go with a "crayon" game because of their ease and play time.

thumbsup
 
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  • Posted Fri Apr 27, 2007 7:26 pm
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Gregg Lutz
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Hilliard
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You do not face a unique problem. Being interested in 18xx and not having an experienced player to trounce you soundly while spouting sage advice is how my friends and I started. Then we found some experienced players and gained better perspective by getting soundly trounced.

Since we have come to value the "learning process" that is 18xx, I will offer some tidbits on how I think of 18xx games, without actually giving you starting positions.

I find them to be three games in one. The initial auction, beginning game, and mid - late game. "Winning" in the initial auction is not necessarily a game breaker, but allowing someone to have too much of an advantage early can make a game a foregone conclusion. The opening auction is an integral part of the game genre and "skipping it" to get to the beginning game "more productivly" is self defeating because you need to learn from your mistakes.

If your game, I will spout some sage advice or guiding principals on the games I am familiar with like 18Scan and 18EU later today.

 
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  • Posted Tue May 1, 2007 12:34 pm
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Alan Winterrowd
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I am never adverse to advice, and often hit the specific game forums for strategy tips. What I was looking for, in this list, was specific starting positions that I could use as quickstarts for inexperienced players.

From my own first experience (1870 with several experienced players), I was completely clueless about the values, in fact about the point, of the privates, which made bidding on them a fairly "follow-the-lrader" affair. I was also pretty clueless about the values of the various railroads, as it became time to set a par price, etc.

I want to be able to sit down with a couple of new players, and hand them an opening position (or draw for it, whatever), that drops them into the game immediately after the sale of privates, and the purchase of the presidents share of the starting corps.
 
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  • Posted Tue May 1, 2007 1:39 pm
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Ben Foy
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Good players try to stop their opponents from getting anything cheap and try to take advantage of any good opportunities. So they tend to doubleup other people's bids, especially the bids of the next player. Generally, all the privates end up with 2 or 3 bids on them before the bottom private is purchased. There are some privates that are exceptions to the rule, like the B&O private (1830) and the SLSF (1870). The B&O private is overpriced and no one wants to buy it for more than minimum bid. We've had to restart games because everyone refused to buy the B&O private. The SLSF presidency is worth $140 and if you really want to pay $145, no one will argue with you.
 
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  • Edited Tue May 1, 2007 8:54 pm
  • Posted Tue May 1, 2007 5:47 pm
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