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BoardGameGeek» Forums » Gaming Related » Do It Yourself

Subject: Board game dining table with plans and instructions rss

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samir patel

springfield
Massachusetts
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This is a table I built. I have attached all the plans as a dropbox link for those who are interested, most are for 123D design, 1 for DWG TrueView for the orthogonal views, and 1 is a cutlist.

All design files are done in 1:1 scale, with actual size (as apposed to nominal wood sizes)

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/g6e0ivv405e72m6/AAAYu28uTxEiV0O-G...

Table base: base of the table
Table w/ 2nd layer: above with further internal structure
Table w/ internal and external finish: above w/ 1/2inch thick finish panels
Table complete: duh

I am still staining and finishing the covers for the table so that it functions as both a kitchen table and a game table, but for now i can at least show the part that's done.


Ask questions, i'll update it once I have picutres of the top



The whole set up is made of pine for $$$ sake, great entry level project (this was my first woodworking project.

Started off with basic 4x4 as the 4 legs, and 2x3s for the actual structure. it essentially starts off with the 4x4s as 4 legs, then making 2 rectangles with the 2x3s as the external perimeter of the table. to attached I used nice large 5 inch wood bolts vertically, as well as L brackets on the underside.


The the grid you see making the floor of the table is 2 shorter 2x3 interacting with a longer one as a cross lap joint. They also interact with the frame itself using a half-lap T joint. You can theoretically not even bolt it down, bit I did go back and tighten everything with 2.5 inch wood screws




next you build the 2nd story of the 2x3 rectangle, which will make up the wall around your your board game floor, with the dining table floor sitting on top of this story.



Next is where you use 1/2 inch thick premium / high grade / finish quality panels to cover the inside and outside of the table. These can by glued on (be generous) as there are not the primary weight bearing pieces, and I found gorilla wood glue to be surprisingly strong.



Then you place a crown molding of your choice over the top of the 2nd story, as this will serve as the your elbow rest. you want it deep enough to cover both the outer 1/2 finish panel and the interior 2x3. leave the interior 1/2 finish panel uncovered, as the panels that go on to turn this thing into a dinging table will sit there. Again, glue will be your best friend. fill in any gaps or such with wood filler and get everything nice and even.

You'll need a lot of clamps



After this, the table itself is pretty much done. For the boardgame floor, I used a single 1/2 thick MDF panel with a 6mm layer of neoprene covered by another layer of billiard felt. and the whole thing just slides right in.

In progress:
The dining table cover is a total of 3 1/2 inch thick pine panels that I sanded, smoothed, re-enforced the perimeter with steel- C-bracket. they sit side-by-side and turn the whole thing into a very nice table top. Currently still in process of sanding and staining.




Update (8/5). table done!!





let me know of thoughts or questions
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GR Yan
Canada
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Re: Another Table (not totally complete) with plans
Hi, this is my first time posting on BGG. I came to the site to find tips on building my first games table.

I must say, yours is a beauty.

What material should I put over the top to get that felt, poker table look?
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samir patel

springfield
Massachusetts
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Re: Another Table (not totally complete) with plans
6mm thick clearance neoprene from http://www.foamorder.com/

then a layer of billiard felt on top from a local billiard supply store
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Jacob Cecil
United States
Lexington
Kentucky
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Your table looks incredible. Forgive me if this is in your dropbox folder (I can't open it at work), but what was your approximate cost for the table? I'm hoping to build my own soon.
 
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samir patel

springfield
Massachusetts
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it cost me a bit more than expected because I started without any tools, power tools, clamps, or pretty much anything (even brushes). You can easily cut costs (especially the neoprene and felt), or use normal wood (rather than finish quality) and live with the occasional knot.

materials alone:
bolts: 30ish
glue: 15ish
4x4 and 2x3s: 40ish
finish wood and trim: i spent a pretty penny, maybe ~150
board game MDF: 30
plywood panel: 25
neoprene: 40
billiard felt: 40
stain and brushes and polyurethane and stuff: 50ish
 
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Darren
Canada
Calgary
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Nice!

One question... With your legs, it appears that you used L brackets to mount them and you mention using 5" long bolts straight down through the frame into the leg tops. These are then covered by your hardwood panels which are glued to your frame. If so, does this mean that you can't remove your legs so from that point on the table can only be moved as a single piece, correct?

You could potentially improve your design by sliding your table legs inwards just a bit and notching the top such that your legs would extend up into the inner section which could then be bolted from the inside, making the legs removable.

I am a glue fan as done properly gluing will result in a stronger joint than screws (my opinion). I would glue every board on my table before using a screw unless I had plans of making it come apart at which point I would use screws/bolts. That said there are times and places where gluing will result in a weak joint (butt ended glue joints) so you need to either use a proper joint to increase the glued surface or use screws (which are quite common now with the pocket hole jigs). For the majority of people, making a screw joint is much easier than a wood joint for proper gluing - hence its popularity. In your case, gluing the panels on to your frame (which has little to no end grain contact surfaces) will result in a much stronger joint than using screws. You also don't have to worry about the unsightly screw heads when you use glue.

Regardless, it looks great and I love seeing what people come up with when making their tables!
 
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Darren
Canada
Calgary
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basm4 wrote:
In progress:
The dining table cover is a total of 3 1/2 inch thick pine panels that I sanded, smoothed, re-enforced the perimeter with steel- C-bracket. they sit side-by-side and turn the whole thing into a very nice table top. Currently still in process of sanding and staining.
Add a new comment when you get your finished images up in your gallery and then I'll add your table to the BGG Table list.
 
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samir patel

springfield
Massachusetts
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tis true, the legs are not removable. with their current design. the L brackets could come off in theory, but the 5 inch wood bolts are burying into the table.

I thought about forgoing this, but I decided I preferred the extra sturdiness this provided. This table has zero wobble and ended up being quite strong.



I will update listing once table is complete
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samir patel

springfield
Massachusetts
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completed!
 
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Mark S
United States
Arizona
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Okay seriously when are you going into business? I'll buy one.
 
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samir patel

springfield
Massachusetts
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haha.. if only.. another life perhaps
 
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The Bat
United States
Dallas
Georgia
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How do you remove the table top to get to the gaming portion?
 
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samir patel

springfield
Massachusetts
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I have a leather strap attached to one of the panels that allows me to pull it out. after that one, the rest you just pick up
 
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Derek H
South Africa
Pretoria
Gauteng
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What are the basic dimensions of the table and the tabletop?
 
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samir patel

springfield
Massachusetts
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table: 74x 48
working / gaming surface: 66.5 x 41.5 inches
 
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Derek H
South Africa
Pretoria
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basm4 wrote:
working / gaming surface: 66.5 x 41.5 inches

So, 170cm x 120cm for us metricated types. Was asking because I was looking at local suppliers for baize and neoprene, and these sheets seem to come in fixed sizes. Neoprene, for example, comes in 200cmx100cm or 100cmx120cm sizes, so I assume one would need two of the latter. Felt for pool table seems to have larger measurements: 150cmx200cm.
 
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