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Mansions of Madness: Second Edition» Forums » General

Subject: To re-base or not? rss

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Demetrio B
Greece
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Hello fellow investigators.

I'm in the edge to change the monster bases with clear acrylic but I'm worried if at some time through expansions the game will require different effects for bace tokens.

At this point miniature bases and associated tokens are useless (most info is covered through the app) but in the future?

Opinions?
 
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Edmund Cheow
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interested to know opinions too. Also, any recommendations of base sizes required?
 
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Peter Johnsson
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I will rebase mine as soon as the acrylic bases I ordered are delivered.

As for different abilities on tokens, I think that is rather unlikely because of the way the app handles combat. But if it happens I would perhaps assign some numbered token to the model, and have a corresponding token next to the monster token, or simply place the model on top of the token.
 
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Peter Johnsson
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actmoon wrote:
interested to know opinions too. Also, any recommendations of base sizes required?


I ordered round clear bases from Sally 4th in the UK.

I chose 25mm for the investigators and 40, 55 and 75mm for the small, medium and large monsters respectively.
Those sizes match the bases of the original, which also means they are a little unnecessarily big, but I really wanted to match the original bases for some reason.
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Máté Kovács
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My first thought was about this issue that I won't do anything about it. For the record, I don't glue my monsters to the black bases, I always attach those when I need them in game.

Then on my second game, I realized, this is stupid. I search a lot between these disgusting black plastics for the right one, but it doesn't really make sense. In the first-ed, all the monsters were different, and had hidden powers, so that could surprise me. But here, nothing. We barely use the numbers on them.

So I decided, I will laser-cut clear bases too. It looks so nice on the photos.

I will take out out these stupid black bases and monster tokens later on from the game, there is no point to use those. A simply list is enough, which you can download from the file section.

About your concern. Mehh, I don't care, if there will be more tokens, which we can use. I will put that between the figure legs, or something.

Oh, and I won't base the star spawn. So huge, it can stand on it own.
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Matt E.

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juliahna12 wrote:
I'm worried if at some time through expansions the game will require different effects for base tokens.



I am re-basing mine on clear Litko bases.

I'll just have the square monster token near the game board, and if any additional tokens need to be placed on the vertical slots on the black base I'll just lay them near the monster token by the side.

Honestly you could do the same with 1st edition which did have you putting damage and stun tokens on the monster base.
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Jonathan Scott
Australia
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I think I'll do this as well.

The tile art is so well done and thematic it seems a waste to cover it with clunky black plastic. And because there is such variation in rooms - indoor, outdoor, grass, street etc I don't want to base them in a particular theme so acrylic will work well. Glad I won't be alone!
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Andy
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What glue did everyone use? Cyanoacrylate? Or does regular plastic cement work?
 
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Keith Scholes
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Imp152 wrote:
What glue did everyone use? Cyanoacrylate? Or does regular plastic cement work?


We have had a debate about that already here. I have a set of bases on its way from sally4th, for the record I chose 25mm, 30mm, 40mm and 60mm. I asked the chap there what glue to use and he suggested CA (superglue) gel in very small quantities. I think that the gel part is important in order to minimise fogging. His results seem pretty good although I believe he was using metal miniatures, so I will see how it goes. I plan to have a trial run with a cultist as they seem like a relatively easy figure both to paint and base, plus they are duplicated from the 1stEd so if it all goes horribly wrong it won't be a complete disaster.

As for future proofing, I also plan to try to drill a small hole in the base under one of the feet and place a tiny (2mmx1mm) neodymium magnet in the base, I can then attach a small piece of steel paper to the top of the standard base so that I can attach (and detach) the monster to the base as a temporary measure should it become necessary in future. I also plan to copy the monster tokens so that I can print and cut them out; stick the copies onto card and use them with the bases without damaging the originals.
 
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ParisianDreams
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I tossed all the minis in MoM 1e and am just using the monster tokens on stands. I did an insert for MoM 1e that fits for 2e and without the minis, everything from 2e, 1e, CoTW and FA fits in one box.
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Markococo
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I've found that a lot of the figures don't actually need bases at all.

Most of the monsters will stay upright without a base and this is even true of the cultists.

The bipedal stuff (maniacs, witches, deep one hybrids, riot, dancing zombies etc would all need bases and a couple of other monsters as well) but the rest...I'm going baseless!
 
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Steve R Bullock
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I considered clear bases, but went with black 30mm bases instead, keeping the Investigators on their own bases (painted black, with an abstract paint scheme to help blend in with the tiles).

Maybe not as "slick" as clear bases, but I like the way they turned out.

No matter what, better than those huge square things the game came with.
gulp

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Edmund Cheow
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volnon wrote:
I considered clear bases, but went with black 30mm bases instead, keeping the Investigators on their own bases (painted black, with an abstract paint scheme to help blend in with the tiles).

Maybe not as "slick" as clear bases, but I like the way they turned out.

No matter what, better than those huge square things the game came with.
gulp



nice work! mind sharing a step by step on how u did the abstract painting on the base? Pretty interested in how you achieved it.
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R.P. Kraul
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volnon wrote:
I considered clear bases, but went with black 30mm bases instead, keeping the Investigators on their own bases (painted black, with an abstract paint scheme to help blend in with the tiles).

Maybe not as "slick" as clear bases, but I like the way they turned out.

No matter what, better than those huge square things the game came with.
gulp



Wow, very nice.
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Steve R Bullock
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I did the abstract painting by first making a small circular area of Nutmeg Brown, then, with the paint still slightly wet, applied a few quick dashes of Leather Red Brown atop the Nutmeg. Finally, with the paint still a bit damp, I dabbed a few spots of Lemon Yellow atop the Browns. Try not to over mix, but some smearing around is desirable.
I used a flat brush, and all the paints were acrylic.

I got varying degrees of success, but in general I liked the results.

As a finishing touch, I took some black paint and stippled around the edges to even out the circular shape.

Thanks for asking!
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Reverend Uncle Bastard
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I took the plunge today. $10 worth of Litko bases, a small tube of superglue, a sharp knife and about 20 minutes of work:





Couldn't be happier that I took the plunge. I wanted to get this done before I dug into the rest of the scenarios (only played scenario 1 so far).
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Keith Scholes
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reverendunclebastard wrote:
I took the plunge today. $10 worth of Litko bases, a small tube of superglue, a sharp knife and about 20 minutes of work:

Couldn't be happier that I took the plunge. I wanted to get this done before I dug into the rest of the scenarios (only played scenario 1 so far).


Are you planning on painting the miniatures? If so I would be inclined to paint them before putting them on clear bases as I imagine any paint flecks would be more noticeable on transparent bases. Looking good though.
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Reverend Uncle Bastard
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keitharchaeologist wrote:
reverendunclebastard wrote:
I took the plunge today. $10 worth of Litko bases, a small tube of superglue, a sharp knife and about 20 minutes of work:

Couldn't be happier that I took the plunge. I wanted to get this done before I dug into the rest of the scenarios (only played scenario 1 so far).


Are you planning on painting the miniatures? If so I would be inclined to paint them before putting them on clear bases as I imagine any paint flecks would be more noticeable on transparent bases. Looking good though.


I thought about that, but I have too much Shadows of Brimstone stuff to paint, so these are going to remain unpainted for the foreseeable future. If I eventually do decide to paint them, I will just rebase them afterwards. It's going to be at least a year before I get to them.
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Jonathan A
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reverendunclebastard wrote:
keitharchaeologist wrote:
reverendunclebastard wrote:
I took the plunge today. $10 worth of Litko bases, a small tube of superglue, a sharp knife and about 20 minutes of work:

Couldn't be happier that I took the plunge. I wanted to get this done before I dug into the rest of the scenarios (only played scenario 1 so far).


Are you planning on painting the miniatures? If so I would be inclined to paint them before putting them on clear bases as I imagine any paint flecks would be more noticeable on transparent bases. Looking good though.


I thought about that, but I have too much Shadows of Brimstone stuff to paint, so these are going to remain unpainted for the foreseeable future. If I eventually do decide to paint them, I will just rebase them afterwards. It's going to be at least a year before I get to them.


Did you go with the Litko bases?

Are those 1.5mm or 3mm thick?

(Looks 3mm?)
 
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Reverend Uncle Bastard
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Ninja_Bob wrote:

Did you go with the Litko bases?

Are those 1.5mm or 3mm thick?

(Looks 3mm?)


I did go with Litko! I love their stuff. I have a lot of their x-wing tokens/rulers etc. plus a bunch of doors, fire markers, smoke markers etc. that I use for all kinds of games.

It helps that my FLGS stocks a bunch of the Litko stuff in the store.

The bases I used for this were the 1.5mm ones. I used the 30mm ones for everything except the riots, deep ones and hunting horrors which I used the 40mm ones for. I didn't use any bases for the star spawns, I just cut the "nubs" off their feet and they stand just fine on their own.
 
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Redd

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My temporary makeshift solution until I rebase or someone figures out a better solution. Those black bases gotta go one way or another. Star Spawn can hold his own token...
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Personally I'm content with sticking to the standard black bases so I can keep the tokens together with the figures, I don't think they are that bad as others seem to think. But that's just me so go nuts with your mods people.
 
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Michel Claussmann
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Siegen
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I ordered clear acrylic bases in different sizes on ebay from a seller called modularterrain. He ships and sells them quite cheap around the word.

In Germany Litko products are hard to find or expensive, so maybe that is a good alternative. I'll report on that.

Now I need to paint faster, before the bases arrive
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Sean McLaughlin
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vincentdante wrote:
Personally I'm content with sticking to the standard black bases so I can keep the tokens together with the figures, I don't think they are that bad as others seem to think. But that's just me so go nuts with your mods people.

Perfectly valid.

Initially I was thinking the same, but after I ran into a couple of instances with more than 1 monster in the same space (plus an investigator or two) I decided the black bases were just too big. Plus I find it easier to look at a single sheet of paper with all the monsters stats than to pick up each one, look at the the stats, put it back, look at the next one, go back to the first because I forgot the number, etc.

So far I've been pleasantly surprised with how easy it is to rabase them on the Litko bases with their recommended #33 acrylic cement (which I also used to slime my Cthonians). And the clear bases on the tiles actually does improve the game's atmosphere even further.

Edit: Oh, and so far I'm using 25mm for most of the minis, 40mm for the Deep Ones and other similar sized, and 60mm for the Shoggoths (and likely Star Spawns). The 1.5mm thickness is more than adequate - I think 3mm would be too thick.

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Peter Mulholland
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My copy is arriving tomorrow and I'd be quite keen to rebase these (never done anything like this before), can anyone give me a list of the different sizes needed and how many of each?

Thanks!
 
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