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Warhammer Quest: Silver Tower» Forums » General

Subject: The Obligatory GW Dried Paint in the Paint Pot thread rss

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If you're new to painting (and I don't recommend Warhammer Quest for beginning painters, btw), you may have heard about the infamous GW paint pots. They replaced GW's previous screw-on lid jars (also known for dried paint), but were a dubious improvement, since paint in these new paint pots still dried out. Reaper and Vallejo use eye droppers. While the tips can clog and you have to shake the paint vigorously to mix, the paint doesn't dry out. This weekend, I picked up the "Battle for Vedros" paint set at half off, which was good, but the paints dried to a thick sludge and the retailer is over an hour away from me, which was bad. In the below picture, I'm holding the paint pot almost *vertically* and you can see the clear medium separated from the gravity-defying paint stuck at the bottom of the pot. This particular set is a starter paint set meant to be used for the introductory "Battle for Vedros" miniatures set, released this June. That's right, these paints were (or at least may have) been released only *three months* ago. This doesn't bode well for the $15 starter model kits to be released in November, which include a GW model and some pots of paint. Happy Christmas, Junior!

The good news is that these are acrylic paints, and, if they're not completely dried out, you can add drops of water to them, as well as other medium. I also used Liquitex airbrush medium (which was hard to find) because someone on the Reaper painting forums suggested using it to thin metallics. Metallics contain mica flakes and GW's metallic paints are a suspension of solids in an oil/water medium. For the non-metallic paints, I used two drops of water to one drop of medium, but you can try water alone, or water with other additives. For metal, I used airbrush medium alone. As for the dried brown Agrellan Earth paint, you're on your own. AE is a crackle paint, meaning that it's designed to flake as it dries, and is meant for painting bases. I don't know what consistency to add water to it suchthat it still cracks, so you'll have to experiment. I'll just use it as a brown paint for basing with sand and glue.

fwiw, Here's what I used to restore the paints, since I have them around the house:
* Empty eye droppers for the water and medium.
* A dozen extra plastic forks to scrape and stir paint (cut off extra tynes, one for each color of paint!).

Restoring dried paint: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6I0kNEQA2pk
Metallics: http://www.the-waaagh.com/forums/?showtopic=50552
Agrellan Earth: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QgJELwTVf1Y



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Kevin Moody
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Thanks for the tips, but even more thanks for the news that the Battle for Vedros stuff is being sold anywhere, let alone for a discount.
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Yeah, I've been dabbling with painting minis for various games recently, after not having done any for years. I've got GW pots of varying ages (some maybe nearing 20 years!), and at least a couple of different designs of paint pots.

I try to keep the top of the pots & lids as clean as possible before closing, and perhaps occasionally check the pots and add a bit of water & stir if they're looking dry/thick (though I hadn't done that for a while!)

The screw tops are awful for paint drying round the lip if you don't keep them clean before screwing the lid back on, and then they can really dry out. But at least those pots are very easy to access to add water & give a good stir. I've revived some of these recently that were almost dried solid with nothing more fancy than water, stirring & patience. However, the paint in a couple of the pots was literally solid, so I didn't even bother trying anything with those!

The flip lids may be slightly better for keeping clean round the top, but I find it hard to tell sometimes if there is any spillage anywhere round the lid/"spout" that may prevent it closing/sealing. I don't think I had any of these get really dried out, though that could be because they're not as old as the screw-tops.

I don't know how long the paints will still be good for, but any minis they cover will be a bonus given their age!

I'm planning to replace my colours with Vallejo as they run out / dry out, as I've tried Vallejo primer & matt varnish and have been very impressed with the dropper bottles (less waste & better value). I do find that a little bit of the paint can collect in the lid just above the dropper hole, so not sure whether it's best to wash & dry the lid to keep it clean, or just leave it if it won't risk letting the bottles dry out any quicker?
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John Middleton
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I use Coat d Arms paints for everything now.

These are the UK people who used to make the original 1980s and 90s Citadel GW paints.

They still come in the same pots as the 80s.

I have paint pots in this style from the early 90s that are still going strong.


Plus Coat d Arms makes all the original colors from the Citadel range and their WWII, Medieval, and Horse colors sets are very good.

Plus triads if you go for that.

http://www.scalecreep.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=2501_2502&...
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Kevin Outlaw
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I couldn't keep up with GW's fancy system, with its different washes, glazes, layers, technicals, and so on. It was expensive enough to begin with!

I purchased a big box of Army Painter, and have found those to be really good to work with. I do kinda miss GW paints, especially when I see a really good GW painting guide and have to spend ages trying to match up colours with what I've got, but you know... Army Painter was less than 1/2 the price.

By the way - to the best of my knowledge, Vedros never even got a release in the UK. It was rumoured it was going to happen, but I haven't ever seen it.
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John Middleton
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The kits and games are supposed to be in Nov.
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Christian Lindberg
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A tip: when putting away paintjars for a while turn it upside down for a few seconds, the paint will seal some of the access for air and the paint will keep moist longer.

I recently went throu about 40 citadel jars which had not been opened for
5 years!!!! and although some weher a bit dry all were salvageable wit some water, and i have since painted about 60 minis with these paints.

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Thanks for the tip!

One advantage of pots is that you can easily add drops of water and medium directly to the pot, and a poster on TMP said this this would create a barrier to keep the paint from drying out. I've only painted on miniature with these GW paints so far, and can say that the GW Mephistron Red looks the same as Reaper's Blood Red (although Reaper's Blood Red has iffy "one coat" coverage and I always undercoat with flesh).
 
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Joshua Rice
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I also use an eye dropper to add water to reinvigorate the paint every so often. As long as you're getting a good seal on the pot, though, it shouldn't dry out. I've got colors a decade old that are still liquid.

Another tip is to put a small glass bead in the pots to act as an agitator when shaking them up. Definitely useful for their older foundation paints, but good for any color you aren't using on a regular basis.
 
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