Shadows Over Camelot is a semi-cooperative game produced by
Days of Wonder, which fit into a unique niche in my collection. The theme along with the cooperative style of play really brought great interest from many family and friends, making this one of the better purchases I have made. However, some consider it little more than glorified rummy.
Defending Camelot is imbued with a lot of theme. Some groups quote Monte Python endlessly during play, while other groups take on the knightly personae and enjoy the role-playing possibilities. In other groups, the semi-cooperative play makes the banter and accusations the highlight of the whole game. The theme is enhanced by the components and art, adding to the feeling of the whole experience.
The game does take a lot of space, so use a large table.
Components: In standard Days of Wonder form, the components are excellent. The “board” is divided into four smaller boards: the main folded board and three quest boards, one of which is split like a puzzle (for the grail quest). While the boards are all sturdy and durable, the artwork on the boards is what really shines through. The side boards are all designated for different quests, with artwork corresponding to the search for the grail, hunt for Excalibur, and the search for Lancelot’s armor/Dragon quests. The boards are also very functional, with distinct spaces for each of the players, invader, and siege engine figures and accompanying places for cards played in each quest. As a result, the boards are all excellent in quality as well as extremely useful. My one complaint about the boards is that the two pieces of the grail quest do not fit neatly into the box. They must be placed on the top, and cause a very slight rise in the box upon repackaging.
Many unpainted figures are included to represent the players, invaders, relics, and siege engines threatening Camelot. Painted player figures can be purchased separately in the
Shadows over Camelot: A Company of Knights, which also includes one additional knight, Sir Bedivere. While a lot of this game is about the theme and pretty bits, I refuse to pay over 20 US dollars for replacement figures that simply look better. Each figure in the original game is solid black with a colored base corresponding to the color of each of the seven characters that can be played in the game. One eight sided die is included.
Also included are 7 player sheets with matching colored 6-sided dice. The player sheets are excellent. While they are made paper slightly less firm than card-stock, the pictures of the players are nice. The real use is in the directions for how to play, making them serve as player-aids included with the game. Each sheet is color coded for the players and has a place to put the relics that are retrieved along with a description of what powers are gained with the relic. A place to display the matching colored die is included, since the dice are used to track how much life each player has. The most useful thing on the sheet for those just learning the game is the play summary at the bottom of each card. Each player sheet lists the possible actions during the Progression of Evil and Heroic Action phases of the turns, which allows those who are just learning the game a visual reminder of the options they have during each phase. There is also a region that gives the victory conditions as well as the possible ways to lose the game. Having this synopsis in front of each player at the beginning and during the game is very helpful, and makes explaining the game much easier. The back of each card outlines the play for the traitor and the modified victory conditions.
Along with these, there are three decks of cards (white, black, and green), and many figures. Each deck of cards serves a specific purpose and contains cards unique to each deck as well as this game. The green deck is used determine the loyalty of each player in the game, and it includes 7 loyal cards and 1 traitor card. The black deck helps progress evil, and contains cards signifying the various quests as well as special cards that can affect quests or the knights directly. The white deck is used by the knights to help fight off the evil threatens Camelot, and contains fight cards, grail cards, and special cards that help the knights regain life, fight quests, prevent evil, fight siege engines, or redistribute resources. Once again, the art on all decks of cards is spectacular, and some people enjoy playing this game simply for the art and theme involved. The cards have descriptions of their actions printed on them, so the game is quite language intensive.
Overall, the components are excellent and very useful. They really enhance the game and add to the atmosphere.
Setup: The four boards are distributed on the table with the quest side face up, including the Lancelot’s armor quest. Each player chooses a knight to play and takes the corresponding knight figure, player’s mat, and colored die. All player pieces are placed around the round table in Camelot. The black deck is shuffled and placed on the space for the black deck near the round table. A Merlin card is given to each player, and then the white cards are shuffled. Five additional white cards are dealt to each player. The green loyalty cards are shuffled, and one card is dealt to each player. Players look at their loyalty cards and place them under their player mats. Relics are placed in the rewards section of the appropriate quests.
I find it convenient to place the swords, siege engines, and Pict and Saxon figures to the side of the board within easy reach, but others simply leave them in the box.
Game Play: The goal of the game is to earn honor and glory for Camelot while defending the country from invaders. The game is won if the knights successfully complete quests to garner more white swords, representing victory for the right, than black swords when the round table is full. If the invaders succeed in mounting a large enough assault (in siege engines) against Camelot, the knights don’t garner enough white swords, or all of the knights die, all loyal knights lose the game. Their names go down in infamy, and the children’s children’s children of all who live will remember the cowardly defense the knights posted in defending the budding land. So no pressure. Each knight starts with a small hand of cards representing their ability to defend the kingdom and four life points represented on the colored die.
Each turn is divided into two phases: Progression of Evil and Heroic Actions.
Progression of Evil: Every turn, each player must decide how evil will progress. They have three options.
1. Draw a black card and play it. Black cards corresponding to the various quests immediately are played on the quests. If they are on the Tournament with the Black Knight, Search for Lancelot’s Armor, or the Dragon quest, they may be played face down to allow the player to draw one white card or face up to let everyone know how strong the opponent will be. Otherwise, the cards are simply played and the appropriate action taken. If the card results in the completion of a quest, check to see if the quest is won or lost. If the quest is lost, punish the knights on the quest accordingly, add siege engines if appropriate, send the relics for the quest into the darkness, and add black swords to the table. If there is a traitor, they should only cackle loudly if they have already been revealed. If the knights win, the knights present are rewarded. In either case, all knights at the quest are returned to the round table.
If the card revealed is a special black card (designated by the presence of the nice red circle found on the back of each card in the corner on the front), the knights have the chance to cancel the card by collectively playing three Merlin cards. They are not required to donate Merlins if they have them, but when others know they have them and they do not use them, accusations of traitory action may start flying.
2. Add a siege engine to the forces assaulting Camelot.
3. Sacrifice a life point. Move the player’s die to show a number one less than what was showing. If this is the player’s last life point, the player is now dead. They discard their cards are remove their character from the board unless someone has claimed the Holy Grail and wishes to save their fellow knight.
If these actions resulted in the death of all knights, the addition of the twelfth siege engine, or filling the round table, the knights progress to the end of the game. Otherwise, they continue by taking their heroic actions.
Heroic Actions: After seeing evil progress towards victory, the knight has an opportunity to try to defend the land. This is done in one of many ways.
1. They perform a heroic action of the appropriate quest at which they are located. If they are at Camelot, this involves drawing two white cards. Gawain draws three because of his special power. If the knights are at another quest, they play a single card appropriate for the quest: a grail card if at the grail, a fight card if at the Tournament, Dragon, Search for Lancelot’s Armor, or the battle against the Picts or Saxons, or any card at the Hunt for Excalibur. If playing a fight card, the card must be an appropriate number, either sequentially or in the sets chosen by the player.
If this card results in the completion of a quest, the knights check to see if they won the quest. If they won the quest, they are rewarded handsomely by regaining life points, drawing extra cards, claiming the appropriate relic, and adding white swords to the round table. They are heralded loudly as they return to Camelot. If they lose, they hang their heads in disgrace and are punished.
2. They may discard three identical cards to regain a single life point.
3. They may fight a siege engine if they are at Camelot. The player plays any number of fight cards. Then they roll the 8-sided die. If the sum of the fight numbers played is greater than the number rolled, one siege engine is removed. Otherwise, the knight loses a life point. In either case, the cards played are discarded.
4. They may play a special white card, denoted by the nice blue circle found on the back of the white cards in the corners on the front.
5. The knight may move to another location.
6. The knight may accuse another knight of being the traitor if there are at least six swords or six siege engines played. The accused player reveals their loyalty card. If they are the traitor, the traitor flips the character sheet over and continues playing as the traitor. One white sword is added to the table. If they are loyal, the knights flip one white sword over to a black sword, and play continues. Mistrust among loyal knights is not good for moral and damages the defense of Camelot.
If the knight wishes to perform a second heroic action, they may sacrifice one life point to perform a second, different heroic action. They may not perform an identical action. If the sacrifice of this life point results in the knight’s death, they have performed a heroic sacrifice for the betterment of the land, but they are still dead. They are not revived if they helped complete a quest. This great expenditure of energy is simply remembered by all in the kingdom, and that must be honor enough.
If any actions resulted in the end of the game, the knights proceed to the end of game conditions.
End of the Game: There are many ways to lose the game.
1. If at any time there are 12 siege engines attacking Camelot, the invaders win, and the knights lose.
2. If all of the knights die, they cannot defend Camelot, and the knights lose.
3. If seven black swords are on the round table, the knights lose.
4. If when the round table is full, there are not more white swords than black swords, the knights lose.
If none of these conditions have been met earlier in the game, the knights have a chance to win when the round table is filled with swords (at least twelve swords have been collected). When the round table is full, all players reveal their loyalty cards. If there was an undiscovered traitor, the traitor laughs loudly and flips two of the white swords over to black swords. If there are more white swords than black swords, the knights win. Otherwise, the knights lose. Of course, the traitor wins if the knights lose, and the traitor loses if the knights win.
Explaining the Game: In this game, the key to the explanation in minimalism. Explain the game as little as possible. This does not mean to give no explanation, but the only real way people will figure out how everything fits together is to play the first half of the game. Also, it is much more interesting to see how people start playing the game than to see how they implement the game as you told them it should be played. I have seen experienced players make apparently less than ideal moves simply because they had accumulated so much junk in their hands that they had no other good choice. Leave room in the explanation for players to discover how best to play the game without being accused of being the traitor all of the time.
Always start the explanation by setting the scene. This game is half about the atmosphere. Make the opening of the explanation reflect that. Next, I go through how the knights lose, allowing a description of the siege engines and the appropriate section of the character mat. Following describing how to lose, I tell them how to win. At this point, I introduce the board and the quests. I tell them that to get swords, players must win quests, and I point out that losing quests also brings black swords. I then move on to the characters and game play.
I prefer to randomly distribute the knights for the first game by simply dealing out the character sheets face up to the players. I give whoever got King Arthur the option of trading for another knight. Arthur is difficult to play as a new player, so I don’t like trapping players into playing him, but I also think players should be given the option. Players are then given the corresponding character piece and die.
I then move on to describing what to do on a players turn. During the description of the Progression of Evil, I show a black card corresponding to each of the various quests, and I show where to place them when they are drawn. During this, I will also give ranges for what is seen in the Black Knight, Armor, and Dragon quests so they can determine whether to place the cards face up or face down. I do not give recommendations on what cards to place face up or face down unless they ask. Even then, I give the vague description of place high cards face up and low cards face down, which is a rule that I generally always violate by placing almost all cards face down. I show a single special black card, and describe how it can be canceled. It is always fun to have surprises in the middle of the game when a new special black card comes up. At this point also show a Merlin card to describe canceling a special card. However, tell them to read the bottom of the card to determine what the cards do when they are drawn. If they have questions after drawing a card, you may help them figure out what the card does.
The important thing here is to let them know the options they have when doing an evil action and where to put the cards when they are drawn. Also, make sure all players know the difference between the Black Knight cards and the Armor/Dragon cards. They are frequently mixed up despite having the titles printed on them. Show them what the cards are and where they go when drawn. Go over the option to place the cards face up or face down twice, because new players will forget. Invariably, people will place cards face up that should be placed face down during the game. When this occurs, simply remind them they have the option to place them face down next time, but once the numbers are revealed, do not let them take a card.
Next, I describe the Heroic Action phase. I start by saying players start at Camelot, and they can move to another spot for their heroic action. Make sure they understand that moving is their good turn. Next, I describe playing/drawing cards. Make sure players know where they can draw cards and which cards can be played at each quest. Also, make sure they know that they must be at a quest to play a card for that quest or in Camelot to draw new cards. At this point I also go over the dynamics of the various quests.
I describe the grail quest first, since it has its own board and is distinctly different from the other quests. In the description of each quest, include the rewards and punishments for failure along with a description of powers of the grail once it is obtained. Show them where the knights are placed and where to place the cards when played or drawn. Also include what happens when the grail and despair cards meet in the middle. This is a long quest, but new players like to go here. Do not discourage them in going to this quest early. While experienced players will often go here early to get a good jump on it, new players will get frustrated that they cannot win quickly. Just remind them that the quest is difficult, and the rewards are high. Do not tell them that winning this quest early is a bad idea.
Describe how a quest works, but do not describe the relative utility of winning quests early or late or exactly which cards are best to play. While players can only play grail cards at the grail quest, the last part of this recommendation comes in at other quests.
Next I describe the Picts and Saxons, emphasizing that cards must be played in numeric order. I also highlight that the punishments for these quests include placing two siege engines on the board. I also make sure they know the difference between the two quests so when corresponding black cards are drawn they will be played correctly.
I then describe the Black Knight and Armor quests, highlighting the play of pairs and sets by the player and the individual nature of these quests. Since these are the only two quests where players must go individually, I make sure players know this. If they leave without finishing the quest, all progress made to that point on the good side is lost. Tell them how to win the quests. It is not about filling up spots first; these quests are about having a higher total value of cards when either the white or black spaces are full. Also, make sure they remember the difference between the black cards for the two quests. Highlight that the lower numbers are going to be used for the Armor quest on those cards for the first part of the game, but simply mention that the higher numbers will be used and described later. I do not describe the Dragon quest until after the Armor quest is completed. There is already a lot going on, and new players will understand the quest just fine if it is introduced in the midgame.
As the final quest, I describe the quest for Excalibur. Tell them that they can play any white card face-down and move Excalibur one space.
At this point, I move on to describing playing special white cards. I describe the Lady of the Lake and Merlin cards, since these cards can have different effects that occur at different times. I describe the Fate card when describing the traitor, since I have not described the traitor yet.
I then describe fighting siege engines. Let them know that they can only fight siege engines if they are at Camelot, and they can play multiple fight cards to do this. I also go over regaining life points.
Finally, I go over accusing a traitor. If players ask about the traitor earlier than this, I tell them I will go over it later. It is a good idea to go over how to play the game as a loyal knight and introduce the traitor at this later time rather than confusing them with it intermingled. I start this description by going over the loyalty cards. Then I describe when and how to accuse a traitor.
Do not say that it is best to wait until just before the end of the game to accuse a traitor. While this is good strategy, it is best to let players learn this on their own. I do go over the reward for a correct accusation and punishment for an incorrect accusation. Make sure players know that this is one way to lose a white sword, but there is no way to lose a black sword. I also go over the consequences of not revealing the traitor during a game.
I also have the players flip over their character sheets, and I describe how to play as the traitor once the traitor is revealed. This is fairly straight forward, and most players recognize that a revealed traitor is very powerful indeed. At this point, I describe the Fate card, since it is very powerful if in the hand of the traitor.
I then go over things the traitor can do to thwart the good knights. This includes throwing good cards in the lake, passing less than ideal cards, or moving frequently. I also point out that doing too much of these actions will surely raise suspicions, and they should try to avoid accusations to gain the ability to flip two swords at the end. I do not point out some strategies that have been mentioned on BGG including simply playing like an open traitor the whole game without trying to remain hidden. This is against the spirit of the game, and if players want to play that way, they can figure it out on their own.
When done explaining the traitor, give players a chance to ask question about the traitor. This is the best time to ask questions about being the traitor without arousing suspicion. Making sure players know this. You can suggest that they begin the game by playing as a loyal knight until they are more familiar with game play, but emphasize that no further help or suggestions will be given for the traitor during the game since this invariably leads to suspicions and accusation, trapping the traitor into ideal play if advice is given throughout the game.
Note: While the rules say that beginner can play without the traitor, much of the game experience is lost without the possibility of the traitor. We always play with a traitor.
At this point, I review the options players have for the Progression of Evil and Heroic Action Phases of the game and how the player can win or lose the game. I also go over the special abilities of each of the players and how they can be used. I finish by reviewing what to do during the two phases of each turn again. I then deal out the cards, pointing out that each player receives one Merlin to start the game, and we begin play.
When question arise during the game, I give brief descriptions of what to do, but I try to avoid strategy advice. What a player does is up to them, and giving advice can take away from the learning experience, but more importantly,
strategy advice midgame hampers the ability of the traitor to play effectively.On a final note, make sure people understand the limits on table talk. Themed talk is fine in extreme moderation, but telling people what you have is not allowed. This is a cooperative game, but there are limits on the information that can be shared. Not following these limits really detracts from the game. If they occur during the game, simply remind the players gently and move on. Give examples of what is acceptable in your group, and what is not. This will help them understand what is acceptable.
Conclusions: This is an excellent game, which really is wonderful if players are in a jovial mood and ready to have a good time. The cooperative nature of the game has really drawn a lot of people in, but at the same time, the traitor adds a degree of suspicion and individualistic play that is not found in fully cooperative games. I have only found one person who preferred to play without a traitor. I never play without the traitor, since I think the game is missing many of the enjoyable aspects when accusations are not flying around the table. Even in the cooperative game, there is generally a sense of tension as the board drives toward defeat while the players try to hold back the tide.
Since each player does one good and one evil action each turn, the game scales well for different number of players without altering the turn structure. Still, the game really shines at about five players, but it is playable with more or less. Experienced players should use the variants at the end of the instruction manual to make the game more difficult, especially when playing with more players. The Squires variant, where players must win quests to gain the special power, can be extremely difficult since the players quickly fall further behind than normal without their special abilities. With seven players and the normal rules, experienced players will almost always win even with a traitor. On the other hand, it is difficult to win a three player game with a traitor even under normal playing conditions, but the game is easily won without the traitor. Since the variants can be used to modify the difficulty for the experience and number of players, the game can still be played with all numbers. However, the game is still best with 4-6 players, since this limits the downtime between turns, but also allows for success even if a traitor is in play.
One thing many people do is limit the number of loyalty cards dealt. The rules recommend dealing one card to each player from the full deck of loyalty cards, which alter the odds of having a traitor in the game with the different numbers of players. I find that with fewer players, this does not put the traitor in often enough. As a result, we play with the number of loyalty cards mixed in equal to the number of players plus one along (N+1) with the traitor card. This does not guarantee a traitor in each game, but provides for a higher chance of there not being a traitor the variant supported by many on BGG of loyal card equal to the number of players plus the traitor card. I find having N+1 loyal cards provides for a better mix while still frequently not having a traitor, a threat that is necessary with fewer players.
Overall, this is a great game that I have taught to many groups of people. I love the game, and all of those I have taught it to have enjoyed it as well.
Rating by Number of Players:8: 5 (with expansion)
7: 7
6: 8
5: 9
4: 8
3: 7
Posted Tue May 8, 2007 8:47 pm