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Mansions of Madness: Second Edition» Forums » General

Subject: My Mansions of Madness Re-basing project. rss

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Hello guys and girls!

I wanted to show off some of my painted miniatures, and specifically, my approach to re-basing them. Obviously, I'm not the first to replace my monster miniatures but I am the first I've seen to do it this way. Basically, I wanted to get rid of those big clunky black monstrosities that come with the base game, but I also didn't want to have the tokens lying around so I came up with this idea: write the numbers on the bases.

Simple!

But then I started having other ideas.

The short version: First, I figured that just writing/painting the numbers onto the bases would look a little sloppy but what if I printed them and include them on to the bases? But if I'm going to print numbers onto a piece of paper and glue it to the base, I could also scan some of the tiles and use that as texture for the base. So that took care of the numbers. However, how about the special rules like flying and facing? Well, since I was already printing a butt load of textures for the top side of the bases, I figured I could print some bottom sides as well, with the rules on them, the same way the original basis do it. And, not being satisfied with ever doing something the simple way, I added some nice artwork as well, because why not.

Here are some monsters:








A better look at the bases, from the top:



And the bases from the bottom:




So far, I'm quite happy with the results. It was a lot of work, and I cut some corners along the way (for personal reasons), but worth it I think. Also, this is just a small subsection of the monsters. I wanted to do a longer postmortem, including all the monsters from the base game and expansions, but I think I'll save that for another day if someone wants to read it, and/or try to emulate the bases.
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Kevin M
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First off, this is a fantastic idea and a great looking execution of it.

Second, since I know it's going to be asked...

Do you have the files available for others to replicate these? cool
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Robert Haddon
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Thanks for sharing your work--it looks amazing. I also want to put the stats on the bases, but I also want to use clear bases so the tile artwork shows through. Stuck with this internal debate, I've done nothing but continue to use the clunky bases with the minis always falling off. You've inspired me to make a decision and go with it.
 
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Bucho Bucho
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Awesome looking, really puts FFG's bases to shame.
 
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Steve Larson
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What did you use for bases? I've seen other people use the Litko bases, but your's appear to be black, and not clear like the Litko ones.
 
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Grünherz
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chewie456 wrote:
What did you use for bases? I've seen other people use the Litko bases, but your's appear to be black, and not clear like the Litko ones.


In stores that sell wargaming stuff, you often find a wide variety of bases made by lots of different small companies to use on standard miniature bases. One of the bigger ones of those companies is Secret Weapons Miniatures for example. Here are all their 25mm bases (25mm matches MoM)
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Thanks. I'm happy that you like it.

In this post I'll go into a bit more details about what I used.

Bases
As Grünherz mentioned you can get bases many different places. Specifically, I bought mine from http://www.renedra.co.uk/ because they're based in the UK and I'm from Europe and their bases are nice, simple round once which is what I needed. They come in various colors, but I actually did buy the clear ones because I thought I might just use those as they were. But that didn't really matter, because once I had attached the top and bottom artwork, I painted the sides black to cover the clear bases, but also to paint over the slight white edge of the paper (You can see this on the pictures of the Shoggoths in the previous post. Those bases were originally black, but I haven't painted over the white edges yet).

I bought 50x25 mm bases, 10x40 mm bases, and 8x60mm bases because my research has indicated that this would be enough to cover the base game and both expansions (I did this before actually getting the miniatures). As it turns out, it wasn't perfect but it was close enough. I used 40 mm bases for the Deep Ones, Crawling Ones, Haunting Horrors, and the Riots and 60 mm bases for the Shoggoth, Dark Young, Star Spawns, and Cthonians. The rest I mounted on the 25 mm bases. The biggest problem is the Dunwich Horror which simply has too big a footprint (sort of pun, sort of intended) to fit on a 60 mm base. It would probably require an 80 mm, but I don't know for sure since I don't have one Other than that, the Mi-go and Hounds of Tindalos just barely fit on the 25 mm base, but they do fit:



Similarly, the Cthonians are probably a little bit too big for a 60 mm base:



Printing and attaching
In my original post I said I glued the artwork to the bases. That was not entirely true. I tried to glue it, but it just fell off again, so in the end I used sheets of adhesive label paper, designed to be peeled off the sheet and attached to whatever. I don't really know what this is called in English, so I hope you know what I'm talking about.

I do have the original sheets that I use to print, but they are little rough as I made a few mistakes for subsequent sheets I made included some of the older bases and so on. However, I have attempted to fix them up, and have uploaded them here:

https://imgur.com/a/svkrh

(I uploaded them to imgur because I wasn't sure I could claim to own the copyright, which was required to upload them here on BBG.)

Disclaimer: these were designed to be printed on European A4 size paper, but some of the bases, particularly the 25mm bottom sides, were a little too big in some cases when I printed them. So I created a new page and printed that a little smaller. Unfortunately that meant the 60 mm art was too small. So I guess what I'm trying to say is that I recommend doing a few test prints before going crazy. I can also recommend the free image viewer irfanView if you don't have Photoshop or something like that, because it has a print dialog where you can control exactly what size you print at.

Hope it inspires
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Grünherz
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That's awesome! Thanks for the detailed explanation! May I ask how the clear 25mm bases look close up? Because I got a bunch from Litko but they're acrylic and more difficult to work with than plastic (they tend to fog up because you have to use super glue), and are also way more expensive. Do I see that correctly that they're selling 50 bases for £3?? That's insane value if it's true. It mentions that the underside has a slightly rougher texture to prevent sliding. Are they still 100% clear or are they a little milky/matte? Thanks!
 
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You're welcome

Yeah, the 50 pack is pretty cheap, but, as you suspect they are not 100% clear. They are pretty matte - a bit like frosted glass, if that makes sense. So if you are looking for something completely transparent, these are not for you. The plastic is also quite hard, but their black bases seems to be made from a different plastic that is a bit softer, if that is important .
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Tomas Hammar
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This is a really nice solution! I'm thinking of doing something similar, but I want to try and only add the numbers (and icons showing flying ability etc) , without background, since I already bought clear bases. What font did you use for the numbers?
 
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Thanks I am curious as to how you will get the numbers on to the clear bases without having to cut them out (which sounds like a hell of a job)? Perhaps some sort of square background field to write the numbers on? Anyway, to answer your question, I used a font called Teletype. I think it came with my computer... ? If not, I don't know where I found it.

Good luck!
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Schu Bo
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This is pretty awesome. I totally want to do this once I have all my monsters painted. Investigators first though.
 
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Tomas Hammar
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I will have to try some background, for sure. I was thinking of getting a round punch or something. Another option would be to use transparent "paper". Not sure I dare run that through my laser printer though...
 
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Chris
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Tompa79 wrote:
I will have to try some background, for sure. I was thinking of getting a round punch or something. Another option would be to use transparent "paper". Not sure I dare run that through my laser printer though...

Maybe not "transparent paper", but there are plastic transparency sheets that are designed for laser (and/or inkjet) printers. There are also clear address labels (transparent plus sticky on one side) that may also be useful. Any office supply store should stock both of these.
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Tomas Hammar
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Ok, so here is a proof of concept. The numbers are just random. On the left they are placed under the base and on the right, placed above the base.
I used a common paper punch set to three settings (A4,A5,A6), measured the positioning of the holes and made a template for the holes in Photoshop. I found a usable font with a round button style. After print I just used my paper punch and collected the resulting circles with numbers. This could probably be done with label paper, but since you only can use the side of the paper, quite expensive. I will stick with some glue on this I think.

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Dan Licata
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Tompa79 wrote:
Ok, so here is a proof of concept. The numbers are just random. On the left they are placed under the base and on the right, placed above the base.
I used a common paper punch set to three settings (A4,A5,A6), measured the positioning of the holes and made a template for the holes in Photoshop. I found a usable font with a round button style. After print I just used my paper punch and collected the resulting circles with numbers. This could probably be done with label paper, but since you only can use the side of the paper, quite expensive. I will stick with some glue on this I think.



Why not just cut the remaining paper you punched a hole in and put it back in the common paper punch set. This way you could use the whole sheet.
 
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Tomas Hammar
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Yeah, I probably could do that, but I think it might be hard to get the proper distance for the punch to hit the printed numbers correctly. It could be done but I think would be hard. As it is now I dont really see where the punch hits the paper, I just have my previuos measure to trust, which was slightly off on one of the punchs settings on first try.
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Dan Licata
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Tompa79 wrote:
Yeah, I probably could do that, but I think it might be hard to get the proper distance for the punch to hit the printed numbers correctly. It could be done but I think would be hard. As it is now I dont really see where the punch hits the paper, I just have my previuos measure to trust, which was slightly off on one of the punchs settings on first try.


That makes sense. Perhaps add some cut lines to the paper with the printed circles the same distance from the edge of the cut line as the first ones were from the edge of the paper. Make the colored circle large to accommodate any slight errors and you should be good to go.
 
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Tomas Hammar
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Ok, now I'm getting somewhere, slowly but steady. Here are some of the result:



 
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Kurt R
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Tompa79 wrote:
Ok, now I'm getting somewhere, slowly but steady. Here are some of the result:




These look great! Fantastic job!

I'll be attaching to the clear bases at some point (still painting). Did you use super glue, epoxy, something else?
 
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Tomas Hammar
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Thanks! I use Loctite Superglue to attach figures to base and a simple RX Glue to attach stats-circles (which is made from common printer paper).

The superglue is great. Figures attach great, but with a little force you can remove them without damaging the figure. My one year old have tried this a couple of times... I have also tried it because I glued non painted figures to bases to have figures ready in game before I got them painted.
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Chick Lewis
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Funny, by experience with superglue is that it always fogs the clear bases. Do you use a 'gel' consistency superglue, perhaps?
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Tomas Hammar
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This is my first and only experience with clear bases, but they remain perfectly clear. It is not Litko as everyone is chatting about though. TTCombat is the brand.
The glue is not of gel type. It is quite the opposite, very fluid and only a tiny amount is needed.
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Tomas Hammar
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I examined the bases more thouroghly now. The Haunting horrors base is actually a little foggy. I did use more glue there, so... easy on the amount is a good heads up.
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