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Warhammer Quest: Silver Tower» Forums » General

Subject: Question regarding glue options from a total noob rss

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John Jurena
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I just purchased WHQ:ST. I own alot of boardgames, but i have never previously owned any that required the mini's to be assembled/glued.

I already purchased xuron plastic sprue cutters - but i am not sure as to which type of glue to use.

I have read that plastic cement glue can be very tricky to use, so i am a little leary about going that route.

I was thinking about getting Loctite Control Gel Super Glue; but i also read that certain super-glues may not be the best for miniature assembly.

I am just looking for some opinions for the easiest, least mess, hardest to "screw up" (keeping in mind i've never done this before).

Thanks!
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Jared Voshall
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There are definitely a lot of options when it comes to what glue to use. Super Glues, Plastic Glues, and Epoxies all have their strengths and weaknesses, and the company making them can definitely make a difference in how good it is.

The cheapest choice is your bog standard retail Super Glue tubes. These are the ones where you can get a bunch of small tubes for just a few dollars, and they definitely work. The included nozzle is long and thin, allowing you to get the glue right where you want it. However, the glue is very thin, and the rigidity of the tube makes it challenging to get just as much as you want without glooping out enough to half smother the piece you're working with.

You could also go with a larger bottle, which makes it easier to get the amount of glue you want out, but is more expensive and may be a lot more than you need. This is where you can get Standard (very thin) and Gel (significantly thicker, but needs to be well shaken before using). This is the one I personally prefer, and I like using Gorilla Glue Gel Super Glue, as it seems to combine the best of all worlds, generally setting and curing quickly, so I don't need to jump through hoops to hold everything together.

However, the biggest downside to Superglue of any kind is its tendency to fog the area around it, especially if you're working in a humid area. While this isn't much of a problem for initial assembly, using it after painting can ruin a good paint job.

Many people also like Plastic Glue of various types. Because it works by actually melting the plastic along the join line rather than simply creating a bond, the joins are significantly stronger than with Super Glue or Epoxies - but you have to be careful about how much you use. If you end up using too much, it is entirely possible to completely destroy the integrity of the piece you're gluing, turning it into a rubbery mess. It also tends to be somewhat more expensive than Super Glue.

Finally, Epoxies are generally overkill for what you'll be assembling for Silver Tower, and the drawbacks are pretty hefty. While you get just about the strongest bond out there, they tend to take a long time to set and cure, requiring the pieces to be held together in some way for a long time, and the entire process generally puts out a lot of heat. I definitely would not recommend using Epoxies for just starting out.
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Christopher Taylor
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I've used Testors Liquid Cement for Plastic Models for years now and have been very happy with the results.



Easy to apply, keeps mess to a minimum, goes right where I want it thanks to the applicator, dries fast and bonds great.

I'd only use superglue as a last resort (or with a metal or resin miniature).
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Dreux Barbier
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I used gorilla glue gel and loctite gel. I put a little blob into a paper plate and then use a tooth pic to control how much glue and where it goes on the model. So far works great!
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J O
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I also used Testors for these models and it worked really well.
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Kevin Outlaw
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Plastic glue is the way to go. As already stated, make sure you get one with a precision applicator, and only use very small amounts. I use epoxy resin for metal miniatures (along with pinning and superglue), but wouldn't use it for these plastic dudes.
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Jim Patching
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Go with plastic glue, it's by far the easiest and best to use.

It gets 'tacky' really quickly so you can easily position the pieces in the right place and wiggle them around if you don't quite get it right first time. It still dries pretty quickly (hold it in place for, like, 20 seconds and you should be alright to leave the model to dry solid). Plastic glue melts the two pieces together so it's far less of a brittle bind than superglue.

I only ever use the Games Workshop plastic glue but I'm sure it's much the same as other plastic glues.
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Christian Lindberg
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Revell plastic glue rulez!!!

A bonus is that you can also use it to fill out gaps and when primed you can not see the gap at all!
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