Erik Racer
United States
Urbandale
Iowa
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I'm contemplating doing the redesign instead of purchasing a used copy. This is what I'm anticipating what I need to buy and the estimated costs. If you've done this (or any other similar projects), please let me know if I'm overlooking anything or if you have any advice on paper weights, chipboard thickness, glue, and/or cutters. I found all of these items on Amazon.
Materials:
1. Ink: I'll be printing on an ink jet. Buying a new set of cartridges will run me about $34 for ink and will be more than sufficient for the whole job.
2. Paper: A ream of A4 20lb weight paper will run $4. Should I be looking for a better weight or type of paper? If so, where would I get it from?
3. Chipboard. Grafix medium weight chipboard sheets 12x12 25 pk. 2 @ $10 each. I read this is between 50-60 weight. Is that thick enough?
4. Glue. I could use a recommendation on what to buy. I'm going to guess $5.
So the cost for parts about $63. Cheaper than buying a used copy.
Finally I know I'll need some type of cutter, mat, and ruler.
Equipment:
5. Cutter. Fiskars 45mm Contour Rotary Cutter $13 (does this cut deep enough)
6. Cutting Mat. Ek Success 13x13 cutting mat $11
7. Ruler. 15" acrylic steel ruler $10
Total cost $98
So, this does bring me to the cost of a used copy, however, the left over supplies could be used to build some other projects and obviously the mat, ruler, and cutter (less replacement blades) should last a long time.
edit - forgot to estimate printing the rules. I'd probably take that to Staples to get it spiral bound. That's probably another $20, but I'd need to do that with a used copy anyway.
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todd sanders
United States
pittsburgh
Pennsylvania
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well the re-design is a lot clearer to play with and understand (being that this is a very complex game). so i think you should factor that in.
i use 100# text weight paper with a 95-98% brightness for all my PnP crafting. 20# paper is not very substantial
chipboard, check if there is an art store in your area. chipboard actually comes in full 30"x42" sheets and could be much cheaper at that size. also if there is a comic book store near you you could consider acid free backer boards
i'd use Spray Mount or Super77 instead of glue.
get a metal ruler, not plastic
probably use an xacto knife not a rotary cutter.
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Lawrence Spode
United States
Mount Airy
Maryland
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Real speak = priceless
3M spray glue is probably easiest. Target has it for about $5. I tend to perfer label sheets on chip board over paper.
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Michael Bechard
United States
Cordova
Tennessee
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For the regular chits, I'd recommend considering printing each side on thick adhesive paper. Then you afix each side of the chit onto each other, cut out, laminate the whole thing, and you have something much more durable and easier to construct than messing with paper, spray adhesive, and chipboard (which is what I did). Laminators aren't very expensive, either.
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Rob Rob
United States
La Mesa
California
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Andrew Tullsen
United States
Tigard
Oregon
Custom Prototypes, Game Parts, Print & Play Games, Short Runs, POD
Has a really excellent PnP shop. I bet you could outsource a bunch of things to him and get a better product for not much more than what you already estimate.
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Erik Racer
United States
Urbandale
Iowa
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Thanks for the advice guys. I would think the amount of sticker paper I'd need would be rather pricey but it is nice to work with for the very few things I've done.
Actually I contacted Andrew when I initially decided this was something I was interested in. The author of the redesign does not want him doing it and Andrew is respecting his wishes. I can't say I quite understand why the author is opposed to it, but Kudos to Andrew for being an honest dude.
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Erik Racer
United States
Urbandale
Iowa
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Yes, I've heard that the redesign is easier to play and from what I've read so far, it sounds like I'll need all the help I can get. Why haven't one of you masters made a training video yet.
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Geekway to the West was Vastly Entertaining.
United States
University City
MO
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I get my full sheet labels through Amazon, for cheaper then I can get them at Office Depot. Plus then you don't need to mess with glue. Once I tried labels, I stopped buying glue.
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Lawrence Spode
United States
Mount Airy
Maryland
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After reading an article by Howitzer_120mm I ended up order a 250 box of Premium White Uncoated (Inkjet or Laser) label sheets for $25 from here:
http://www.sheet-labels.com/labels/SL111VS
I made Dune, WizWar, Merchant of Venus, and half a dozen smaller games and am only half way through.
I print to the labels, "lamenate" with contact paper, stick to chip board, then cut with a box cutter and metal ruler. Swing by the thrift store and buy a cheap puzzle or box to store the game in. Easy and cheap.
If you do not have a laser printer, I do recommend taking your label sheets and the files to a Staples like store and printing there. Probably cheaper then burning through your own ink, and they will look much better. Plus they usually wont charge you for the first couple test prints when you are determining darkness and resizing.
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Tim Mayse-Lillig
United States
Chicago
Illinois
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All I have to add to this is- Why an Acrylic ruler? If you are using it as a straight edge for an x-acto, a steel ruler with cork backing would be best. I would guess the cost is not more than the $10 you quote.
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Erik Racer
United States
Urbandale
Iowa
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Subhuman wrote:
Thanks for the link - book marked. Great price and I will order from them for other projects I see myself doing; however the redesigned files are A4 size. I could go with the letter sized labels (8.5x11) but then the scaling will be messed up (but I guess it should be consistent between all of the components, and I just end up with a smaller copy). If I go with 11x17 labels I shouldn't have the issue with the A4 sized files being reduced but will waste a lot of product (and pay more for it).
timlillig wrote: All I have to add to this is- Why an Acrylic ruler? If you are using it as a straight edge for an x-acto, a steel ruler with cork backing would be best. I would guess the cost is not more than the $10 you quote.
As far as why acrylic, ignorance. My wife quilts so that is what I'm use to seeing around. I did know that BGGers would give me the good advice if I was specific enough.
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todd sanders
United States
pittsburgh
Pennsylvania
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you can cut/scar/mar the acrylic with an xacto knife creating dips that catch the blade. a metal ruler gives a much better supportive fence for cutting
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eracer68 wrote: Yes, I've heard that the redesign is easier to play and from what I've read so far, it sounds like I'll need all the help I can get. Why haven't one of you masters made a training video yet. :D
Not sure if you mean a training video for making the PnP Realm or for teaching play. If the latter, are you aware of the video rules tutorial and character examples of play at Bookshelf Games?
I also believe the How to Play podcast linked on this page is very helpful.....and there are a bunch of other great learning resources in the files and link sections of this site.
Brent.
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Erik Racer
United States
Urbandale
Iowa
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goshublue wrote: Not sure if you mean a training video for making the PnP Realm or for teaching play. If the latter, are you aware of the video rules tutorial and character examples of play at Bookshelf Games? I also believe the How to Play podcast linked on this page is very helpful.....and there are a bunch of other great learning resources in the files and link sections of this site. Brent.
Thanks! I'm only through the first few pages of the 3.1 rules so haven't hit anything complex. However, this was exactly the type of resource for which I was looking. I've found a few other non-BGG pages but had not yet stumbled across this one.
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Posted Sat Jan 21, 2012 1:14 am
