User Profile for finke67
Andrew Finke
United States
Des Moines
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KK and Von Richthofen

I have enjoyed boardgames for as long as I can remember. As a kid I used to play Risk by myself (I lived in the country with no friends nearby, not because I didn't have any) and make each color play by a different strategy. I also played a lot of Monopoly on my NES. So, I've played a lot of the two most criticizied games on the Geek. My sister and I used to play a lot of the regular fare board games growing up.

My philosophy is not to go into a game like Monopoly thinking it is going to be a game like Puerto Rico. Play the game for what it is and either have fun or not have fun. When I play a game I want to have a good time, I don't feel the need to prove my mental prowess. I think the group you play a game with can completely change how much fun the game can be.

I'll play any type of game (Euro, Ameritrash, Wargame, Racing), but tend to lean towards the Ameritrash side more. I like games that are high in player interaction, I really enjoy when there is an eliment of 'screw your neighbor', as long as it doesn't dominate the game. I look for games that my wife (see avatar) and I can play together. My main gaming buddies outside of my wife can only get together for a game once or twice a year, making VASSAL and Skype two of my new favorite programs. I enjoy print-and-play games and reworked versions of games. Like many, I'm working on a game of my own and if it is any fun I'll put it on here as a print-and-play.

I enjoy going to thrift stores. I usually look for records, board games, and books. Rarely do I ever find any good classic rock records at thrift stores. Ever since I made Merchant of Venus I'm addicted to buying Scrabble tiles...

My Top Ten are my current favorites. Hot Ten are the most recent games I've played.


How I put together a PNP game.

Programs: Paintshop Pro, PDFill (to manipulate pdf files: split, merge, save as images), PosteRazor (to split images into multiple pages), CutePDF Writer (to print files to pdf)

Tools: Self-Healing cutting mat, utility knife with quick release for fast blade changes, lots of blades, a metal ruler with cork backing, rolling pin.

Materials: I use 2ply chipboard, which cost $4 from Hobby Lobby when they have their bi-weekly 50% off matte board sale. I use chipboad for the gameboards and tiles. I use matte board for boxes. I use spare scrabble boxes or other thrifted game boxes for other random things if the 2 ply chipboard is too thick. Full-sheet labels or Super-77 spray glue, drawing paper (I use 70lb because that was the cheapest tablet), Krylon Matte Finish, self-adhesive floor tiles.

Printing: I print most everything on Avery full sheet labels, I didn't care for the store brands because they didn't have enough breaks in the backing for easy seperation. I split the map into sections that will fit on the the full sheet labels using PaintShop Pro or PosterRazor.

Cutting: I always use the metal ruler and utility knife. Change the blades often as they wear down fast and will tear the paper, which is frustrating. When cutting out chits I can lightly cut the lables and have them peal off with ease.

Gameboards: I always use labels instead of going to the printer because it is cheaper, easier to handle, and you have to cut up the large print-out anyways (regardless of jigsaw or quad-fold).
-- Option 1) 2-ply chipboard. I place the first label a 1/4 inch from the edge of the board incase the map isn't running flush with the edge of the board. To prevent the pieces from warping after the puzzle pieces are cut out I spray glue drawing paper to the backs and cut off excess. Then you can take elmers glue and rub along the sides to prevent the chipboard from splitting (I haven't done this step and will probably only do it where the tabs are). I take my time to figure out exactly what size I want the sections to be, be sure to take in account the tab. Then mark out all the cuts with a pencil.

-- Option 2) use a thrifted game board (trivial pursuit quadfolds are my favorite, 20x20 is the normal quadfold). If I have a map that is larger than a board I can find at the thrift I cut tabs to hold the boards together. After I have the tabs cut, I apply the map.

-- Regardless of which option I use, I tediously place the labels on the board lining up as best as I can along one or two sides of the previous labels. It is possible to pull up the edge and reposition a couple of times before the full label is down. Carefully I smooth out the label with my fingers from one corner to the other working out bubbles as I go. Then I roll with the rolling pin to really press it down. Going straight to the rolling pin may result in wrinkles in the label. I have decided that puzzle-boards are the easiest way to go, so I don't have to worry about hinges. I think a 1/4" tab is sufficient to hold the board together. I usually make the tabs about 1/3 of the length of the side. When I use thrift boards, I over lap where the boards will meet to match the tab I just cut. Becareful not to cut the tab backwards or it won't 'grab'.

-- Option 1) I print on full sheet labels and place on chipboard. If I know the front and back will line-up I will cut out 2 sides after the front is on and then line the back up to the cut edges.
-- Option 2) I print on cardstock or photo paper and roll onto self-adhesive vinyl floor tiles from a home improvement store. Usually I will arrange the items on the floor tile to maximize how many I can get from 1 floor tile.
-- Sometimes to make sure I get the tiles lined-up, I will apply one side of the counters and cut out. Then I cut the other side and manually apply each one.

Cards: I use cardstock for my cards on rough builds, but don't know how to get super nice cards by making them. I have printed on full sheet labels and applied to thrifted cards before, which works okay. Now I use for projects I want to have a nicer finished product. Here is a geeklist of games with ArtsCow card files.

-- Option 1) I use a thrift store game box and trim the height of the box to fit my game. Then cover the top with a full sheet label using pictures of the game.
-- Option 2) I get a color of matte board that suits the game and cut out using this guide. Then I glue the corners and cover with clear contact paper.

Preservation: I spray my board and tiles with Krylon Matte Finish, found at craft stores and Wal-Mart.

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User Details for finke67
Registration Date: 2007-09-07
Last Profile Update: 2013-07-14
Last Login: 2016-02-10
Country: flag United States
State: Iowa
Town/City: Des Moines
GeekMail: mail Send Private Message to finke67
Collection Summary for finke67
Board Game
Owned   114
Previously Owned   59
For Trade   7
Want In Trade   20
Want To Buy   0
Want To Play   2
Preordered   2
Wishlist   84
Commented   81
Has Parts   1
Want Parts   3
All   306
Board Game Expansion
Owned   14
Previously Owned   2
For Trade   0
Want In Trade   3
Want To Buy   0
Want To Play   0
Preordered   0
Wishlist   8
Commented   2
Has Parts   0
Want Parts   0
All   31
For Sale 0
Sold 3
Rating 1
Board Game Plays 430 Total | By Month | Last 30 Days | Chronological
Board Game Expansion Plays 4 Total | By Month | Last 30 Days | Chronological
Trade Rating (56) Propose A Trade With This User
Board Game Ratings 79
Average Rating 7.08
10 4   (5.1%)
9 9   (11.4%)
8 23   (29.1%)
7 19   (24.1%)
6 14   (17.7%)
5 7   (8.9%)
4 2   (2.5%)
3 1   (1.3%)
2 0   (0.0%)
1 0   (0.0%)
Board Game Expansion Ratings 2
Average Rating 8.50
10 0   (0.0%)
9 2   (100.0%)
8 0   (0.0%)
7 0   (0.0%)
6 0   (0.0%)
5 0   (0.0%)
4 0   (0.0%)
3 0   (0.0%)
2 0   (0.0%)
1 0   (0.0%)
Top 10
#1: Pit
#2: Survive: Escape from Atlantis!
#3: Roll Through the Ages: The Bronze Age
#4: Twilight Struggle
#5: Warmachine Prime Mk II
#6: 18xx
#7: Tide of Iron
#8: Railways of the World
#9: Catan
#10: Blackjack
Hot 10
#1: Star Wars: X-Wing Miniatures Game
#2: Fortune and Glory: The Cliffhanger Game
#3: Steam
#4: Saint Petersburg
#5: 1862: Railway Mania in the Eastern Counties
#6: Catan
#7: Race for the Galaxy
#8: 1867: The Railways of Canada
#9: Bazaar
#10: 1854
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