In Line Dice (ラインダイス), your goal is to reach your finish line first with your six dice.

Each player has their own movement track with six lanes for their six racing dice. The racing dice all start off the board on their 1 symbol, which is also wild. On your first turn or two, you'll roll two six-sided dice, choose a die, flip a racing die to the matching number, then place it in the "start" space at the beginning of the lane; you'll then repeat this process with the other die.

Once you have at least one die in a starting space, on a turn you roll the two six-sided dice, then use each die to either change the face of one of your racing dice or advance a racing die of the matching number. If you create a line of racing dice of the same number, say, two 4s that are adjacent to one another, then you can use a rolled 4 to move both of the racing dice four spaces at the same time. (A 1 counts as all numbers, so it automatically creates a line when adjacent to another racing die.)

If you land one of your dice on a change space in a lane, you can change an opponent's die to the value of your choice.


You must land a racing die in the goal space at the end of the lane by exact count. If you would have extra movement, then you move the racing die backwards in the lane until the full value of the die is used. However, if you land a racing die in the penultimate space in a lane, then when you roll that number again, you can push that racing die forward one space onto the goal.

Get all six of your racing dice onto the goals first, and you win. Alternatively, you can play multiple games, with each player scoring points for the face value of the racing dice in the goals and losing points for dice that didn't make it, with jokers now counting for -10 points.

Players in Mountain 53 need to toss trash into the garbage bin, but unfortunately they're all a bit lazy and instead of emptying the bin when it's full, they're content to pile everything as high as possible in the hope that someone else will knock it over and have to clean up the mess.

Before the game begins, each player takes a set of cards numbered 1–10, and the forty pieces of "trash" — milk cartons, tin cans, bottles, and apple cores — are placed next to the garbage can.

Each round, players secretly choose one of the three cards in their hand, then reveal them simultaneously. In order from low number to high, each player places a number of pieces of trash equal to the number they revealed into — or onto — the garbage bin. If a player makes the garbage mountain collapse, they receive a penalty token, then empty the bin, with the next player in that round starting with a clean bin. If someone places the final piece of trash into the bin without knocking anything over, they receive a bonus.


The game ends after the sixth penalty token has been handed out, and whoever has the fewest penalty points wins.

You make only four moves in The Cheese was in its Place, so make them count!

Each player receives four mouse cards at random from a deck numbered 5-13; the remaining card is set aside face down. In the first round, lay out in a 3x3 grid nine bait cards, which are numbered 1-6 and depict food: acorns, strawberries, and cheese. Each player in turn places a card face down next to one of the rows or columns in the grid, then they reveal them, then they do this again. Whichever mouse is smallest takes food first, but it can grab cards only up to its size, e.g., the 5 mouse takes bait cards from the end of the row or column where it's located, stopping if a card would make the sum of the bait more than 5.


After resolving all four mice, refill the grid with bait cards, then play another round with the remaining two mouse cards in hand. Each trio of acorns or strawberries you collect is worth 1 point, while a trio of cheese is worth 2 points. Whoever scores the most wins.

The silent facility has become a deadly, inhospitable fortress. You are a warrior on a mission to destroy the evil mafia, and you are alone in this fortress. The enemies are huge, but the more you defeat their members, the more vulnerable the security becomes and the fewer obstacles you will face that will prevent you from taking a bite out of the boss.

In the game Greeen Mafia, you will enjoy the exhilaration of defeating enemy after enemy with your enhanced body. However, whether or not a facility can be damaged by defeating the enemy depends on the damage inflicted on the facility beforehand. Furthermore, the damage inflicted on facilities is gradually removed, defeated enemies will eventually be replenished, loopholes will be blocked, and destroyed facilities will be repaired. You can control the movements of your enemies to some extent by devising the order in which you defeat them. Conversely, you need to remember which enemies you have defeated and when; otherwise you will not be able to take advantage of the game.


Once you have inflicted the default damage to the facility, defeated the gatekeepers waiting for you on the way, and overcome the final objective — the boss — you have completed your mission and won the game.

Your challenge in Pyramiland is to rid yourself of the balls in your collection first.

To set up, place up to sixty pegs in the holes of the wooden game board to create the field of play, and give each player the same number of wooden balls. On a turn, you place a ball on the playing area, then you can play again if you can place a ball so that it touches the ball just placed while also being on a higher level. You can continue to take extra turns so long as you can do this.


When you place on the lowest level, your ball must be supported by four wooden pegs. On the second level and higher, your ball just needs to be supported by other balls, but due to the layout of the pegs, not all of the balls will be in identical rows, so you likely won't have a clean, regular-shaped pyramid as you build to higher levels.

Whoever places their final ball first wins. If a player cannot place a ball or knocks a ball from the pyramid, including one just placed, the game ends, that player loses, and whoever has the fewest balls remaining wins.

Gone with the Beans is a flip-and-write game in which players take on the role of bean farmers who are acquiring and managing their resources while trying to grow their farm. The game includes fifty copies each of four different game boards, each with different set-ups, although the base system is the same. Players start in different provinces with different special abilities, and on each of of the game's fifteen turns, a character wanders the board, affecting where players can do what. Each turn, players gain some income, then have a number of actions from which to choose, such as building facilities or achieving milestones.

Players in Tiger & Dragon play tiles from their hand to participate in waves of attack and defense. Be the first player to empty your hand to score points based on whichever one of ten scoring cards are in use this round.


The game contains 38 tiles: 36 numbered tiles with one 1, two 2s, etc. up to eight 8s, along with a tiger and a dragon. Shuffle the tiles face down, then each player takes tiles based on the player count, with the round's starting player taking one additional tile. With four players, for example, the starting player draw ten tiles and all other players nine. At least one tile will remain out of play.

The start player attacks by playing a tile from their hand. The next player can either pass or defend the attack by playing the same tile. Note that the dragon defends against any odd-numbered tile and the tiger against any even-numbered tile. After defending, place a tile of your own to attack. If a player passes, the next player either passes or defends. If all other players pass on your attack, place a tile from your hand face down, then choose a new tile to attack again. If you attack with the dragon or tiger, a player can defend with any odd- or even-numbered tile, respectively.


The first player to empty their hand wins the round and scores points based on the last tile that they played and the specific scoring card for that round. They score 1 bonus point for each time an attack of theirs went undefended. At the end of a round, if a player has scored 10+ points, they win.

Tiger & Dragon can be played with team rules like GOITA. Teammates sit across from one another, and the first team to collectively score 15+ points wins.

Suroborous is an auction game in which the items you bid on will be worth points only if you bid the amounts shown on these items in future auctions — that is, a card may be worth 10 points, but it will show two circles on it, say 30 and 50. The card will not be worth 10 points unless you bid 30 and 50 in future auctions.

The economy is relatively closed with winning bids going to the auctioneer, and the auctioneer's bids going to the bank; however, if any player bids an amount shown on the card up for auction, that card receives a coin from the bank, covering that number.


When the game ends, players earn points for their completed cards, purple cards with special scoring criteria, star symbols on cards, and a bit for leftover money. Of note, players without at least one star symbol are eliminated. Otherwise, the player with the most points wins.

Cat & Chocolate is a card game set in a haunted mansion. Each turn, the active player must use 1-3 items in hand to avoid threats, such as a crumbling floor, erupting flames, or attacks by ghosts and the living dead. How can you use a cat and a piece of chocolate to defend yourself? How can a bankroll of money and rope help you escape unscathed? You tell me!

After you tell everyone the story of how you used various tools to ward off the threat, everyone votes on whether or not you succeeded. If a majority backs you, you keep the threat card; otherwise, you don't. Each player secretly belongs to either the Secret Society or the Cult, and you naturally want to vote for the players on your team, but no one knows who is on which team.

After a certain number of threats, the game ends, players reveal which group they belong to, and each group tallies the number of threats that their members escaped. Whichever side avoided more threats wins!

In the trick-taking game American Bookshop, players must follow suit when possible, there is no trump, and the highest card of the lead suit wins the trick. However, if the sum of the cards played to a trick exceeds a certain value — 14-17, depending on the player count — the trick ends immediately, and whoever played the last card claims the trick. As such, players may not have equal hand sizes.


A round ends when one player is out of cards; the remaining players then simultaneously choose and reveal which cards still in hand they want to add to their collection. Each card a player takes is worth -1 point, but if a player has collected more cards of a suit than each other player, they instead earn +1 point per card in this suit. After as many rounds as the number of players, whoever has the most points wins.

The game consists of a deck of cards (numbered 1-21) and two optional scoring cards. To set up a round, shuffle the cards, remove five from play, then deal each player eight cards. The starting player plays any card, then the next player either plays a card at most three higher than the previous card — so on a play of 5, the next player could play 6, 7, or 8 — or passes. When a player passes, the previous player collects the played cards, stacks them as a scored trick, then leads a card. When a player is out of cards, you resolve the current trick, then the player who has collected more tricks wins the round; in case of a tie, the player who collected the last trick wins.

The first player to win three rounds wins the game.

Aside from the card deck, the game includes dissertation cards that show various combinations of cards: numerical straights of length 5, 7, 9, and 11; three pairs; four pairs; three- or five-of-a-kind; and so on, with multiple copies of some dissertations. Players are dealt 3-5 cards based on player order, with everyone then discarding down to three cards in hand.

On a turn, take one of three possible actions:

• Research: Either draw two cards, add one to your hand, then discard the other; or add the top card of the discard pile to your hand.
• Present a dissertation: Take cards from your hand that satisfy the requirements of a dissertation, then place those cards on display in front of you, placing the dissertation on top. You can claim a specific dissertation at most once.
• Conduct a peer review: Select a published dissertation (from any player) that has two or more cards underneath it, then add one of the cards to your hand. If a dissertation has only one card underneath it, the paper has been accepted and (1) it is now worth points for its author and (2) it can be cited by future dissertations.


How do you cite an accepted dissertation? You present a new dissertation and pretend that the card under the accepted dissertation is one of the cards that you played; you can cite multiple cards in a dissertation, but you must play at least one card from your hand. For example, you can play two pairs of cards from your hand, say 3s and 8s, then "cite" a 6 from one of your accepted dissertations and a different 6 from another player's dissertation. You'd then claim the "three pairs" dissertation and place only the 3s and 8s underneath it. When you cite another player's dissertation, you must give them a card from your hand — ideally something useless! — as a thank you for their previous work.

Accepted dissertations are worth 1-9 points, and when a player has 15+ points, the end of the game is signaled. If this player has any cards in hand, they claim the "end flag" dissertation that's worth 1 point, then place one card from their hand underneath it. (If they have no cards, the game end is still triggered; they just miss out on the bonus point.) Continue play until each other player has completed two turns and the person who triggered the ending has completed one turn. The player with the most points from accepted dissertations wins; in the event of a tie, the tied player with the fewest accepted dissertations wins.

Each of the 36 cards has two suits — black and white — and the numbers on a card always add up to 37, e.g., 11 black and 26 white.

At the start of a round, deal the deck evenly to all players. Whoever leads the round plays a card from their hand and chooses either black or white as the suit. All other players play a card of their choice, then whoever played the highest number in the chosen suit collects the trick (recording in some manner whether the trick was white or black), then leads the next trick.

Once all the cards have been played, players score their collected tricks. If you have taken an equal number of black tricks and white tricks, then you score positive points equal to the number of tricks collected; if not, you score negative points equal to the number of tricks collected. After a certain number of rounds, whoever has the highest score wins.

Using three cards with silhouettes on them, players discuss their predictions and make conclusions.


In more detail, the fortune-seeking player tells everyone what they want to know, e.g., "What does my future hold?" or "Will I find a divine pet?" or "Who is my true love?", then draws and reveals one card, with the fortune-telling players drawing two cards each. The fortune tellers then use their two cards and the seeker's one card to make their divinations. The seeker then nominates the player whose fortune telling touched them the most, with that fortune teller scoring a point.

The game consists of a deck of fifty cards, with five suits of cards each numbered 1-10. Lightning is the trump suit, except that when snow (normally a losing suit) is played with lightning, then snow trumps lightning.

At the start of each of the three rounds, players reveal one of the eight scoring conditions to determine how many points positive or negative each card of a suit is worth in this particular round (-3 to +3). Players then play out the round, trying to collect tricks — or dodge them! — to maximize their score.

In Pandora Cat, a.k.a. パンドラの猫, you're racing to reach a points threshold before any other player can, but in each round you never know whether you want to score high or low until it's almost over.

Each round, each player is dealt four cards from the 24-card deck. Each of the eight types of cards has a value on it as well as a special ability. Each player chooses one card from their hand, then they reveal these cards in clockwise order from the starting player. Players then do this again two more times, leaving them with one card in hand.


Your score for the round is the sum of the value of the card in your hand and the value of the cards you played. Normally the player with the highest score earns 5 points, with the players in second and third earning 3 and 1 points respectively — but if a player has played two "Pandora Cat" cards, then the player with the lowest score earns 5 points! If two players have each played two "Pandora Cat" cards, then scoring is normal, whereas three players having done this reverses the score once again.

Rotate the start player position each round, and complete multiple rounds until a player has scored at least 12, 14, or 16 points in a three-player, four-player, or five- or six-player game.

There are two dungeon piles, and from the back of the cards you can tell which dungeon level they belong to. The deeper the level, the more treasures there are but also the more monsters there are. Each turn you decide whether to draw a card or go home. If you draw the third monster in a round, then everyone runs home and you lose all you collected this round, while other players who haven't gone home yet lose only one treasure.

Can you make it home with piles of loot, or will you just be another scaredy cat?