Hi I thought it might be fun to run a bit of a game design contest.
This contest is open to everyone, and at this stage I will put up my 24 geekgold as a prize, but perhaps we can get others to donate to the prize pool, or we can arrange another prize.
This contest will be open for 1 month starting today.
The rules for this contest are as follows.
* Each entry is to be submitted via this geeklist under its own game, wether that be "Unfinished Prototype" or whatnot.
* Each entry is to be a new game that you have not playtested previously. (Please no entries for games that you've had under your belt for a long time.)
* you can use mechanics you want, but please do not make your design a retheme or variant of another game. this will be determined by public vote if there is a debate.
* All game specific materials need to be made available as print and play files at the closing of the entries. (one month from today) obviously dice and tokens are to be provided by players.
* Not absolutely required, but seeing as i envision most of the entries to be fresh idea straight from the oven, it would be great if you "blogged" about the game, the design process, your reasons for things being how they are.
Not only does this give insight to other people (hopefully a good read), but perhaps or readers or contestants can suggest ideas and help you. it's all for fun anyway.
* Rules are subject to change at any time, but seeing as they are so broad I doubt they will.
* Winners will be chosen by the public using a poll.
Wording of this will likely be changed when I have more time but i this you get the gist of it.
To keep upto date with this geeklist please check out and subscribe to the thread.
**UPDATE - Entries**
As there has been some confusion as to how to enter your game/concept/idea, all that is required is for you to click add item, and add a game to this geeklist. this can be anything you want, if you were inspired by another game use it, or do like i did and choose "unpublished prototype". once you've added it, just type away about your entry, what it's like, and what not, if you want to post rules already go for it. if not and you want to play with creating a WIKI page for your game go for it. or wait and hopefully i can arrange so space to post files to for this contest.
So just to be clear, you are not required (and actually not recommended) to add your game to the BGG database of games. if at the end of it all, you think you got something, then yeah try and submit, but seeing as i envision these as mostly concept designs, they would likely not be accepted into the database.
**END UPDATE - Entries**
New Prizes for this contest are:
1st - 40
2nd - 28
3rd - 17
Thanks to everyone for their contributions, you've been very generous.
Hi Guys, with the contest due to close in the next few days, please try finish up your entries. have the relevent files/rules/links available. After the close date i will get some sort of poll happening. I can't wait to have a really good look through all the entries, and play a few of em.
The poll is up
SO Poll Is closed and counted. It occurred to me that there would be an anomoly in the voting so the scores were calculated, for 1st, only the people that voted for first counted, for second, it included votes from first and second, and for third, all votes were counted.
this prevented a game like death at samara not getting it's chance due to everyone voting for it for first, but not in second or third.
SO i have 85 GeekGold to hand over.
So the Winners Are.
1st Place - "War of Tides" by Fred Schmidt - Wins 40
2nd Place - "Death at Samara" by Strangelander - Wins 28
and last but not least
3rd Place - "Upwelling" by Scott Nelson - Wins 17
Honourable meantion goes to the rest who participated. i think some great Ideas came out of this contest, and perhaps, people will continue to develop there games and see some further success.
Thank you Everyone.
This is my Game entry, details to arrive soon, as i'm at work at the moment.
My game idea is a fighting game for 2 players ala M:TG, but will not use cards per se as the main mechanic.
At this stage each character is prebuilt and made up of 20 cards numbered one to twenty arranged on the following shape.
and in the follow sequence, continuing until cards 19 and 20 are your top two cards.
This is your character, bascially my idea is that of using a very simular system to kingsburg, in that by using dice, you are then using those dice to activate different abilities and attacks and defensive moves.
the idea of my shape above is that then when playing 2 players the board would look like
Being cards it is then easy to pass the card to your opponent to show that the card does indeed say what you tell them it says.
I've no idea if this idea is any good or even fun, but i hope to try make up two distinct characters tonight or this weekend. see how it goes from there i guess.
Slow night at work has allowed me to start work on my 2 characters. 1 will be a Warrior who deals alot of damage but does not have alot of defence.
My second character is a wizard who has to use mana draw cards to build up mana, most attacks for this character require mana to be cast. another major difference between the 2 characters is that at any time the wizard can discard 2 mana to defend against 1 damage. Its my assumption that this character really needs to use his mana wisely, he
could negate alot of damage being done to him, but then he couldn't do much if any damage back.
It is my hope that i'll have a first draft of both characters done tonight, and hopefully, be able to test them out tomorrow, if my brother comes around.
Had my brother and a friend around today, and showed them my game and managed to play through almost 2 games.
Play time is amount 10-15 minutes at the moment, and it was great to see the game in action, despite almost half of the wizards cards not being written yet.
Not a bunch of strategy yet, but with cards not being finished, and no where near fine tuned this was to be expected. The wizard also lost both games (or would have had the second game ended). this was due to the mana system i had created for him, again it needs tweaking, i think it might be solved yet by providing double the mana, because he was essentially never able to block due to lack of mana.
I hope tomorrow to get some more of the cards written up, and heck may start on computer versions of them so all you guys can check it out.
So the last few days, I took a break from actually touching my game, and just thought about differnet things. i feel like there possibly needs to be an extra layer of something here, but i don't know a) what it is, or b) how that would work into the relatively simple mechanics of the game. I have decided that i will work to try and get the wizard mostly done, then do a druid, because i thought of another set of things, to make him set apart. i'll get the three characters mostly done and release the files here so guys can try it out. This lets players choose a character if they dont' like a specific one.
Since the game plays so fast i had though in the end, maybe there are a bunce of characters, you choose 2-3 and then battle them out, like pokemon. so when one dies, you move onto your next one.
Componets of this game :
20 small cards per character, this ends up being a sheet and a bit of A4 paper. so three characters should, I believe, fit on 4 sheets of A4.
8 d6 die (minimum) more would help (use as tokens)
Something to use as tokens
I just uploaded the prototype of Ideograph to the Papercut Games website.
I think it qualifies, because it's very new (the idea is maybe two weeks old), and I didn't have a chance to playtest it. Unfortunately, playtesting Ideograph may be completely impossible for me, since it is a party game and I never go to parties... I'd love to try the game with 6 or so players though, although I might suck at it (I'd probably only come up with boring meanings/explanations).
If anyone tries it, please let me know what you think about it.
From the game description:
Ideograph is a party game about ideographic / pictographic association. Players create meanings for combinations of symbols (grapheme) based on associations of the (combined) meanings of those symbols. The player that comes up with the best / most creative / most humorous / most plausible explanation of the meaning of a combination of symbols wins that round. This is decided by means of voting. Hence, whether plausibility or humour is prioritised depends on the players and the situation.
The game is based loosely on the structure of Chinese characters. The selection of symbols (card/graphemes) in the game is based partly on frequently occuring radicals and other graphemes in Chinese characters, but also on Anna Wierzbicka’s theory of semantic primes (natural semantic metalanguage).
The shapes of the symbols are for the most part completely unrelated to those found in Chinese characters. This is not an educational game. It is not intended to be helpful in learning Chinese characters. It is merely intended to be fun (within the right context), although playing with language in this way is probably a rather geeky type of fun.
ἄνδρα μοι ἔννεπε, μοῦσα, πολύτροπον, ὃς μάλα πολλὰ/ πλάγχθη, ἐπεὶ Τροίης ἱερὸν πτολίεθρον ἔπερσεν./...
μῆνιν ἄειδε θεὰ Πηληϊάδεω Ἀχιλῆος/ οὐλομένην, ἣ μυρί᾽ Ἀχαιοῖς ἄλγε᾽ ἔθηκε,/...
Unfortunately, I do not have the means to create the needed image files. The board and pieces however are so generic, this should not matter.
Off the cuff then, here goes:
It's a wargame but it uses the points of a square grid super-imposed on a map with areas marked rather than hexes. I'm thinking sometihng similar to that used in Skirmish but denser. Regions of water or impassable mountains can be included as barriers; although the underlying system I have in mind is highly adaptable I'm designing this one only for land combat without air support. The object of the game is to conquer a certain portion of the entire board, by eliminating all the other player's pieces within the regions. For example, one might need to conquer enough regions for control of 3/4 of the points on the board BUT regions cannot be split. Thus, bigger territories are harder to hold but worth more as well compared to smaller regions; control is defined below. The specific fraction of the board needed to be controlled in order to win can be decided by the players before beginning, anywhere from half the board to all of it.
Players start with enough pieces to each fill 1/4 of the board [although all pieces start off the board] so that for a Go-grid [16x16] each of the 2 players starts with 64 pieces. [See below.] Initially, the board is empty and players take turns placing a piece one at a time anywhere on the board-- at any unoccupied point of the board until all pieces have been placed. In later turns, this gets only slightly modified. Each player either moves a piece on the board or places a new one. Each piece can be moved only once since in principle movement/placement is considered simultaneous. Thus a piece placed cannot be moved the same turn. If a player wishes to keep a piece where it is, he may do so but he indicates this with the piece and that constitutes moving the piece. A player must move or place a piece unless either he has none left or he has less pieces left to place and/or move than his opponent in which can he may pass.
Now, the pieces [sort of like those in A&A] are rated for movement, attack, range of attack and defense. In all cases, intervening pieces cannot be jumped nor can more than one piece occupy the same point. Say, half a player's pieces [32 in the Go-grid example] are "infantry" with all these numbers 1. Movement is one point in any direction. Attack and defense rating are both 1 [see below] and the range of what can be hit from the piece's final position in one space in any direction. Then, a quarter of the pieces are "cavalry" [16 in the Go-grid example]. These have a movement of up to two points in a straight line in any direction. The defense and attack rating are both 2 as well. Range of attack from the final position is exactly two [not one] in any direction if the piece has not moved or in any direction except backward along its last line of movement if the piece did move. 1/8 of the pieces [8 on a Go-grid] "artillery" have a range of movement up to three in a straight line in any direction. Defense rating is two but attack rating is three. The range of attack is up to three in any direction if the piece does not move but not the points immiediately adjacent to its position in any direction, i.e., not one point away. If it does move, the zone of control is reduced to exclude any points either diagonally or directly backwards along the line of movement. The last 1/8 of the pieces [same number as the "artillery"], "shock troops", have a range of motion of up to three in a straight line in any direction but the range of attack is only a single point in any direction from the final position. Their defense rating is three and their attack rating is two.
Combat resolution is also simultaneous. Each player decides how the points of attack are to be used, starting with the player with more pieces in play or in the case of an equal number of pieces beginning with the player who placed a piece on the board first. That person can be decided at the start of the game in whatever manner the players decide. Points of attack can be distributed however one wants within the zone of control [i.e., attackable area] but all points must be used and once allotted cannot be changed. Each player alternates by naming one of his pieces on the board and designating how its points of attack are to be used, i.e., for "shock troops" either one against this piece and one against that piece or two against that piece. In this process a player may not pass and so a player with more pieces on the board has an advantage. Once all pieces' attack points have been used, any piece whose defense rating has been equalled or exceeded is removed from the board and a piece of identical type becomes available to the opposing player to place on the board.
After the initial round, a piece can only be placed on the board in a region in which no points are occupied at the start of the round by the opposing player and the region starts the round with at least one piece in it belonging to the player placing the piece[s]. Control of a region for purposes of determing victory are similarly defined, i.e., this is equivalent ot saying that a player can only place a piece in a region he completely controls. A player who has no pieces on the board left to move and who cannot place any of his pieces on the board is skipped in the movement/placement phase. Once so skipped a player cannot then become able to place piece[s] during that same round; if the player makes a mistake and could have placed a piece but did not [an illegal "move"] that player forfeits the placement option as well. A player can only place a limited number of pieces in an given region per turn, say three.
Victory is determined at the end of the combat phase. If at any point after all combats on the board have been resolved a player completely controls regions to fulfill the agreed upon victory condition, that player immediately wins. If at any time, all of one player's pieces are removed from the board, that player loses. If at the end of conflict resolution all of BOTH players' pieces are removed from the board, it's a draw in the sense that they BOTH lose.
I just had a hint of inspiration last night on a possible board game design, and then I log in today and find this geeklist. Coincidence?
My idea is based on a story I had planned on writing. It had gotten through the outlining stages but I never got around to actually writing it. The story is called "The War of Tides." Basically there is a planet with a moon that is in an impossibly close orbit that has a very strong gravitational pull on the planet. So much so that it has become a part of every day life for the inhabitants... items are lighter during "tide"; people can jump higher, making for interesting sports; irrigation systems are designed to take advantage of water being pulled toward the moon. Anyway, thats not what the game is about, its just a little background.
The game is following the inhabitants discovery that the moon also has inhabitants and the war that follows. Transport is by simple rockets, as the level of technology is very low. The planet has higher technology and more opportunity to increase it's economy through a very simple economic system, while the moon has very little technology. However, the moon's advantage is that they can launch rockets at any time without consequence, while the planet must wait for the moon to be over their rocket facility to take advantage of the gravity. Also, though the moon does not have technology, they do have "magic" which is not really magic, but invisible beings from the moon that the inhabitants can control with their minds... this has no bearing on the game except that it makes the moon's soldiers very very powerful. So its a dichotemy between the planet with its more powerful rockets and economy that is hindered by a sort of timetable, verses the moon with weaker technology, but stronger soldiers and no hinderance with time (other than launching to attack key areas of the planet).
I know it seems like alot of background information, but its really a theme based game.
I'm envisioning the board as being a semi-circle with the planet on one side and the moon on the other with a sort of curved grid for movement in space. Some parts of the grid will have information on the gravitational effects in that section (pretty much everything between the moon and planet). The planet will actually be seperate from the board and attached with a brad so it can rotate, thus simulating its rotation and the orbit of the moon. I thought about having a full circle around the planet, but figured moving the moon around with playing pieces on it would be more difficult than its worth. The moon will probably be divided into 4 or so areas where the planet people can land to disrupt their economy, while the planet will have many more. The planet will have its rocket facility in one sector, and as the planet rotates the facility will be within the gravity of the moon, then out, then on the far side of the planet, etc. Items in space will also move one square to the side at the end of each turn to simulate the moon travelling through its orbit. Battle will happen between rockets in space and between troops on the ground (similar to A&A I'm thinking). There will be a simple economic system, each sector is worth so much production, and taking the enemy's sector does not entitle you to it (how would you get it back to your world?) but simply prevents your enemy from using it. There will also be a simple technology system to improve rockets, soldiers, economy, etc. I think there may be a tech bonus for the moon when they defeat a rocket on their ground (reverse engineer it) and for the planet when they defeat a moon soldier on their ground (learn about the magics and how to defeat them). Victory conditions are to destroy your enemy's capitol.
Anyway, thats my idea that I worked up last night. I have no experience designing a boardgame, so comments are welcome.
Confusion Under Fire
First I would like to say what a wonderful idea to have a design a game competition and it is a truly generous offer of 50 GG to the winner. Game design by the little fellow seems to be taking off in a big way on here.
Secondly I would like to say my game has been designed before this competition got started but the first files were made roughly 2-3 weeks ago so it isn't a game that has been made for ages, in fact it has never been playtested until tonight. Some changes have been made and therefore more playtesting is to follow.
Ok on to the game and its design. For quite a while now I have wanted to play a game that followed the exploits of the French Resistance, small scale battles and firefights interest me. I have never been able to find the right mechanic to do this until the other day at work I was staring off into space thinking about wargaming......
The idea was to build a group of men that had certain skills, but not have the player choose the best team. This is how I implemented this idea. Take a pack of cards and deal "X" amount to yourself, for the Germans "X" is 3 cards and for the resistance "X" is 5 cards from this deal choose just one card and discard the rest, then from the pack deal yourself another "X" cards and again choose just one card. Do this until the pack is exhausted and you now have "Y" amount of cards in your group. The resistance player also adds 2 dummy cards, think of these as diversionary tactics. The chances are you would have a decent team but if any deals bought up 2 good cards you would only be able to choose one so you would not always have the very best cards in your hand. It also means that your opponent does not know the strengths and weaknesses of the cards you hold, which turns out to be the crux of the game.
Then I did my research on what the French Resistance were actually involved with. I managed to include blowing things up, Rendevous with airmen, entering a factory, Assassination, Troop movement and producing propaganda newspapers. The last item is simply a card that allows you to employ more resistance fighters.
Now that I had my team I had to decide exactly how I was going to get them to do all of these things and how can the Germans react to them. I came up with the idea to have seperate objectives, there are 7 in the game. Also a barn from which a radio Operator works from, more about him later. Then the main seed of the game came to me. The resistance player was to pick an objective and try to accomplish that particular objective by having more points that the German player in the objective in question. It would take bluffing powers to achieve this as one of the German cards is more powerful than any resistance card. To counterbalance the German from just saving his best card to the end and putting it down on what may seem the obvious objective I gave the resistance player a chance to collect a card which takes away at random 3 German cards in his hand. Each card in each players hands has its own strengths, but the real element is to deceive the opposing player as to your real intentions until it is too late. The loser may have men removed from the game, at the bottom of every personnel card are the numbers from 1-6 some of these numbers are highlighted in red if the number of friendly cards match this number then its curtains for that card.
The barn is where the Radio Op relays his messages from, but he has to be aware that the German player does not hold the "Radio Detection Van" card. If the German player plays this after the radio op card is played then its goodnight to the radio op. So what benefits does the radio op get? If he successfully sends out a message then he can pick one of the five airdrop cards of his choice. They range from an SOE operative joining your party, receiveng money, ammo or weapons and explosives. Each has its own benefits, but dont hang onto them for too long or else the German player may do a search and take away your prized possessions.
There are a few other things too. The players are restricted to the number of cards allowed on any Objective. Some cards are more useful in certain situations, for example the sniper is a good card to hold if you want to try an assassination but not very good to have if your trying to blow a bridge up. I playtested the game earlier tonight with my daughter and I was pleased how easy she picked it up, but not so pleased that she could read my mind with unerving accuracy for half the time. Damned physcology student!! It is quite a good game for 2 unequal players as the German player has less options in the "Party Selection Round" Tho some of his cards have 2 parts which he must collect both parts for it to be active. But collecting too many of these cards will leave you short of personell to do the job. This is a game which does not have "The best plan of action" as the best plan of action is the one your opponent is not expecting. Solo play is nil and the game played quicker than what I thought. There are a few variations too. We played 3 rounds each but I think "Small Village" (Each objective may be only chosen once) may be a good option for replayability.
Board Game: Genoa
[Average Rating:7.12 Overall Rank:497]
He's looking real sharp in his 1940's fedora. He's got nerves of steel, an iron will, and several other metal-themed attributes. His fur is water tight and he's always up for a fight.
He's a semi-aquatic egg-laying mammal of action. He's a furry little flat-foot who'll never flinch from a fray. He's got more than just mad skills, he's got a beaver tail and a bill.
CEO: Chief Executive Officer
This game consists of:
12 Raw Material Cards:
4 Water cards
4 Coal cards
2 Iron cards
2 Timber cards
40 Company Cards:
2 Power Plant cards
8 Food Farms
7 Cotton Farms
5 Clothes Factories
5 Steel Mills
3 Tools Factories
6 Lumber Yards
4 Furniture Factories
Two colors of marking things, such as chips or beads or anything really. I'm planning to use the chips from Sequence, or centimeter cubes. Or houses and hotels from Monopoly, and you can even use the monopoly money (poker chips would be better for money)
Note on Markers: Green markers represent products ready to ship out, while red markers represent the capacity to make a product, but lacking the inputs to make it.
Object of the Game
The object of the game is create a business enterprise through starting companies, making deals, and trading with your fellow businessmen, and to make the most money by the end of the game.
Deal out one of each of the raw material cards, and then shuffle the rest. This is the 'auction' deck. The raw materials are put in play as belonging to each player. (Note: In a 3 player game, deal out three of the raw materials and place the last one on the top of the auction deck) (In a 2 player game, deal two to each player). The raw material deck is face up so all can see the next card coming.
Shuffle the 40 company cards into a deck, and deal out 6 to each player. Each player then discards 2, down to 4 cards left in hand. Note: Players are welcome to discuss their hands with each other (including showing cards), but may not trade at this time.
Each player displays the raw material card they received, and places it on the table face up in front of them.
Place the income board in the center of the playing surface, and place one distinct marker for each player on the $0 space (You could use the pieces from the Monopoly game you robbed – I want to be the car)
Each player receives $50.
Phase 1: Raw Material Auction
Players bid in a going-going-gone auction. A player bids by stating his bid. Each bid must be higher than the last bid. The player making the bid then says, “Going once (pause) going twice (pause) sold!”. There must be a reasonable pause between each count for someone to bid,
The winner of the auction pays their money to the bank and takes the new raw material and places it in front of them next to their other raw material, overlapping if it is the same type.
Phase 2: Raw Material Replenishment
If you only own one raw material of a specific type, replenish green markers up to 1. If you have more than one of a specific type, replenish green markers for that specific material 2 markers for each of that material you own.
Example 1: I have one Coal material card, with no green markers on it. I place one green marker on my Coal.
Example 2: I have two Water material card, with 2 green markers on them. I place two additional green markers on my Water material, to make 4. 2 water materials times 2.
Phase 3: Construction 1
Players collect the amount of income shown by their marker on the income board.
Players each take a card from their hand (if they have one) and hold it face-down on the table, with at least one finger or thumb underneath the card. Players them simultaneously either:
1. flip the card over, building a company
2. return the card to their hand
3. place the card face down on the table, building an apartment complex.
Any player who built a company pays the building cost shown on the card to the bank.
Place red markers on the new company, given how many companies of it’s type you have. If this is the second of it’s type, place two markers on it. If it’s the first, 1 marker. The third, 3 markers, etc.
Phase 4: Make Deals
Now we’re talking! Here’s where everything suddenly becomes tradable. Money, goods, companies, raw materials cards, etc. Note: Markers are only there to show the condition of the company, and as such cannot be traded separately.
The cards show what the inputs needed are, and what the output goes to. For example, a steel mill requires one coal and one iron in order to produce one steel, which heads to a tool factory to be made into tools.
The tool factory requires one steel in order to produce one tool, which is a consumer good. Because it’s a consumer good, the income from selling that good is noted on the Tool Factory card. In order to sell the good, you must sell it to an apartment complex.
Adam, Bob, Chris, and Doug are playing. The raw materials are distributed, Adam gets water. They auction of the first raw material, which was another water, and Adam wins it with a bid of $20. Adam also made a deal with Bob in which he gave him a card from his hand to stop bidding, and Chris and Doug each made a deal with Adam that they would stop bidding if he gave them each 1 income. Adam goes down 2 on the income track to $-2, while Chris and Doug each go up to $1. Bob has 5 cards in his hand, Adam 3, and Chris and Doug 4.
Adam places 4 green markers on his water raw materials, and each other player places 1 on their materials.
Adam pays $2 to the bank, and the bank pays Chris and Doug each $1.
Chris and Doug talk about what they will build and make an agreement for Chris to play a Cotton farm and Doug to play a Clothing Factory.
Bob plays a food farm while Adam plays a Apartment Complex.
Adam and Bob discuss prices for the water needed for Bob’s food farm.
Bob offers Adam $2 income, but Adam asks for $20 and his card back instead. Bob agrees, removes a red marker from his food farm, and takes a green marker from Adam’s water, places it on his food farm, and pays Adam $20 and gives him the card. Bob then sells this food to Adam’s apartment complex, and moves his income up 5 spaces (the amount food is worth when sold) to $5 and then places the green marker from his food farm onto the apartment complex, in the ‘food’ space.
Now Chris discusses pricing with Adam, and Adam takes $3 of income for the water needed for Chris's cotton farm. Adam goes up $3 on the income track to $1, and Chris goes down to $-2. Chris then takes a red marker off his cotton farm, takes a green marker from Adam’s water and places it on his cotton farm. He then sends the green marker to Doug, doing their prearranged deal where Doug would buy the cotton for $8 income, Chris goes up to $6, while Doug goes down to $-7. Doug then sells the clothes to Adam’s apartment, moving the green marker to the ‘clothes’ space. Doug then goes up $15 (the amount clothes are worth) on the income track to $8.
All the dealing is done, so they go to the next phase.
Apartments can only accept 1 of each good.
Phase 5: Construction 2
Same as Construction 1, collect income and build.
Phase 6: Deals 2
Same as Deals 1… make deals!
Phase 7: Cash in Apartments
If a player wishes, he may cash in his apartment complex for the following amounts: $5 for food delivered, $10 for cotton delivered, $15 for furniture delivered, $20 for tools delivered, and $25 for power delivered. The apartment complex is added to the discard pile and the money is paid out from the bank. (cash, not income). This player then draws a card.
Phase 8: Draw Cards
Each players draws one card from the company deck, or may choose to discard a card and draw two cards.
Return to Phase 1.
The game ends when it is time to auction a raw material, and there is no raw material to auction.
Pay each player his income for that turn (income marker x2)
The player’s final score is the total money he has on hand at the end of the game. Tie breaker is income, then the value of all buildings owned, then the number of raw materials owned.
Briar Rose Schreiber
*8/26 Added black borders to text on Conductor Cards
*8/26 Uploaded a preview of the massive map
*8/26 Updated map preview (smaller, cities, reputation track)
*8/27 Created Occupation Tokens
*8/27 Continued work on the map
*8/28 Stayed up all night studying map design. Created rustic map without hexes. I promise the track is coming soon!
*8/31 Finished prototype components. I had to rework the rules a bit. Next up, play testing.
Big Rock Candy Mountain
Big Rock Candy Mountain is a game about a hobo's life on the rails in 1930's USA.
The theme is based off of a public domain folk song written by Harry McClintock in the 1890s. For more information see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big_Rock_Candy_Mountain and
Big Rock Candy Mountain is a game for 2-5 players. Each player controls a miniature hobo (from now on referred to as a meebo). The players have their meebos hop trains in order to move around the U.S. to find work. When a meebo works it collects dimes. These dimes are than cashed in at a hobo jungle to throw a ho-down and increase the meebos reputation. Watch out for the bull (train yard cop) he'll take all of a meebos money! The first hobo to become famous (or infamous) across the country is titled king/queen of the hobos and can retire at Big Rock Candy Mountain.
1 board/map of 1930's U.S.A.
5 meebos (5 meeples in different colors from Carcassonne)
1 conductors whistle
64 conductor cards
1 bull pawn (train yard cop) (builder from Carc in a color not used by players)
24 occupation tokens
50 coins preferably nickels (I'm going to use a roll of nickels)
20 reputation markers (4 cubes in each of the five meebo colors)
1 bindle (tile bag with a dowel attached)
1. The map, conductor deck, and coins are placed in a central location.
2. Each player chooses a different meebo, a train, and takes the four cubes that correspond to their meebo.
3. Each meebo starts as an unknown, so each player places their reputation markers at zero in each of the four areas (cigar, top hat, booze, and guitar) of the reputation track.
4. The conductor deck is shuffled, and the occupation tokens are mixed up in the bindle.
5. The bull is placed in Chicago.
6. The players choose amongst themselves who will start with the conductor whistle.
7. The player with the conductor whistle deals 5 conductor cards to each player.
8. Beginning with the player to the conductors right (the last player), and proceeding counter-clockwise, each player places their meebo in a city of their choosing that is not already occupied by another player or the bull.
10. Play commences with the player with the conductors whistle.
Phase 1 - Conduct
The player with the conductors whistle (from now on called the conductor) selects one of their conductor cards and plays it face up to the discard pile.
If the played card has one to three colored trains on it, then the bull is moved directly to the station connected by the color track that was on the played card. If there is more than one city connected to the bull of the same color track as was played, then the conductor chooses which of these stations the bull travels to. If the bull is in a station that is not connected by the color on the played card then the bull does not move.
If the bull passes over a meebo in a train, that meebo is arrested and immediately moved with the bull to the station the bull was moving towards. The bull takes all of the arrested meebo's coins and releases the meebo at the station.
Next any player who has a meebo in a station, that is connected by a track of the color of the played card, may hop on a train and move down those tracks a number of spaces equal to the number of trains on the card played, or until the players train reaches a station. A meebo already in a train, on a track of the color of the card played, may also proceed a number of spaces equal to the number on the card player, or until the train reaches a station.(NOTE: Trains cannot collide! They simply pass by each other on a stretch of parallel tracks).
If a meebo arrives at a station in a train, and that station contains the bull, the meebos coins are confiscated. Also, a meebo in a station with the bull cannot hop a train out.
If two meebos are in the same station only one can hop out on a specific line during each turn.
If the card played says New Season, then all occupations tokens are removed from the board and returned to the bindle. Any coins still on the board are returned to the supply.
Phase 2 - Look for work
If the conductors meebo is in a station without an occupation token on it, that meebo may ask for work. The conductor draws an occupation token from the bindle and places it on the station under their meebo. If the occupation token shows coins on it, the conductor piles that many coins on the token.
Phase 3 - Work/Party
If the conductors meebo is in a station that has coins piled on it. That meebo may work for a day and collect one of the coins.
If the conductors meebo is in a station that contains a hobo jungle (has either a hat, cigar, bottle, or guitar on it), that meebo may spend any number of coins to throw a party. The meebo's controller than increases the reputation of that meebo in the area corresponding to the hobo jungle the party was thrown in.
The conductor whistle is passed to the player to the conductor's left. Play commences in clockwise order until the end game condition is met.
When a meebo has a reputation of at least seven in all four social circles its controller wins.
What do the markings next to 5 and 10 on the reputation board mean?
When a meebo achieves a reputation of 5 and/or 10 in any social circle that meebo's reputation is spread by word of mouth causing its reputation to increase by one in every other social circle. These increase can cause chain reactions/stack.
mads l. brynnum
2400 Kbh. NV
My game idea is called Melee and is about to great fighters duelling. It's about attacking and riposting all the while hoping to score a hit on your opponent. But truth be told it's also just a Yahtzee variant with a pasted on theme.
One of the ideas with the game, is to make a quick game which can actually be finished within the timespan of this competition. But also to make a game that requires components any gamer should have, meaning that you can actually give it a try without to much assembly.
Important: This is the second write up of the core rules. I did some solo testing and I think they might work now. However it's hard to know without proper testing, so if you have some dice, a couple of dice cups and a few minutes to spare, feel free to give it a go.
Both players have a pool of dice and there’s a common pool of dice they can both use. The object of the game is to attack the other player with combos. Each round is best of three which means that the first player to score two points win the round.
The theme is quite pasted on right now. I'd love to have - as suggested in the comments by Aaron - customized dice and maybe some different characters with different tactics, but this is the core game system.
12 six sided dice and two dice cups.
1. Give each player 4 dice. Choose one player randomly to be the attacking player.
2. The defender rolls the 4 common dice which are placed in the middle of the table between the two players. The common dice are visible to both players.
3. Each player now rolls his/her 4 dice without revealing them to the opponent.
4. Now the attacking player announces his attack combo following these rules:
a. A combo must contain at least two dice, one of which must be from the players own dice.
b. When announcing your combo you must place on of the dice you used in your combo in front of the other player. On his next turn he may use this as if it was in the common pool. You do not need to reveal any other of your dice.
c. A combo is either matching dice or ascending dice. So 5+6 is a combo, as is 6+6+6 or 3+3+4+4. But 6+6+4 is not a valid combo since the 4 is not matching anything.
d. A combo may contain no more than 4 dice.
5. The defender now has three options:
a - take the hit. The attacker scores a point. The defender is now the attacker and he/she can still use the dice just placed in front of him/her by the other player.
b - Defend. The defender matches the combo. To defend you must pay on dice of your own as if you were attacking. The dice, however, is removed from the game. After this you are the attacker and must now make a normal attack. The dice placed in front of you by your opponent may still be used for this attakck.
c - Riposte. The defender makes an attack with a combo worth more than the one announced by the attacker. As when making a normal attack you must place the dice you use from your own dice pool in front of your opponent. The dice in front of you is removed after you've announced your combo, but you can of course use it in said combo. After making a riposte, you are considered the attacker.
6. When one player has scored two points the round ends. If you are the defender and have no dice left, you automatically loose the entire round. You should play at least three rounds alternating who starts as the attacker.
7. The combos are ranged like this:
2 dice: Ascending is lower than a pair. The greater pair wins.
3 dice: Ascending is lower than three of a kind.
4 dice: Two pairs are lower than ascending which again is lower than for of a kind. With two pairs the greater pair wins. Thus 5+5+1+1 will beat 4+4+3+3.
Remember that the dice you pay when attacking or making a riposte can be used by your opponent. However, only for his next riposte. After announcing a combo you must remove the dice in front of you.
Okay, that was a quick write up of the new and, hopefully, improved rules. I hope it's okay that I use this as a way to post work in progress.
Upwelling:A Fishing Frenzy
Upwelling is an occurance in the weather that affects the water in the ocean from the sea floor to the top, and thus the population of many species is determined through its happenings. I designed this game after walking around with an article in my pocket that was in the local newspaper about a month ago. After seeing the contest, I decided to put it to paper. Some mechanisms were simple and I could play them through my head. Others I saw more clearly as I figured out other parts that interacted with the way it played out. The article was helpful in reading about how the salmon is affected, but as I looked up upwelling on the net, more factors I hadn't considered worked their way into my thoughts and onto paper. I threw a few thematic elements into the puzzle and voila! it seemed to work (in my head anyways). The game consists of various tracks to keep track of stuff, and markers/cubes/dice/money to use to keep track of stuff and that is about it.
During the game each player will receive $45 to start with and try to earn $300 or more to win. The main actions include a blind bid for bribe purposes as well as determining turn order, decisions on what kind of ship to work with during the season, and to rent for fishing months only or buy it(upfront costs) for the whole year (useful for tourism if a late fishing season happens). Factors affect the next years crop of fish, and also the ship taken and the length of the fishing season; You can double,triple,etc your crop dependant on those factors.
There is/can be a big screw you factor if someone puts a lot of money into something and then you purposely drive that position they were hoping for into the ground. Them's the lumps of fishermen on the high seas, trawling for the next big catch.
This game works mainly with the theme, though I had to take some actual events and tweak them from how they would work irl. But taking liberty to change things to make them work in a game doesn't appear to be a new thing.
The name will be
Fishing Frenzy, I think Upwelling sounds best though.
rules to follow...
never used scrabblify before, thought it might be unusual.
Rules posted in a comment. Not sure if that is the best place for them.
Picture of playmat idea posted in another comment. Still not sure if that is the way to do this.
Like I wrote above, it stems from an article. I moved the blog stuff to here: http://www.boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/gamedesign/upwelling
Aug 28.08 working on adding more different ships to the mix, instead of 4 static ships per season.
Aug 29.08 Working on the map idea, with little strips with 4 boat letters on them each, randomly placed on all but the middle island which will be static and generic "one of the best" boats for it.
Aug 30 Added loans and re-rolls to the rules, as well as the islands map for traveling which was added to the rules as well.
Sept 6 - reworked rules and uploaded them to here. Cards and board soon to be uploaded.
Sept 9.08 Done. Uploaded all files to comments of this entry. Moved all comments to the wiki address to clean it up some. New rules posted.
Sept 21.08 Done.
ENTRY FOR - LimboLance
The Galaxy is Ours!
Sample Game Outline
The Game is one of exploration and discovery. It is designed for 2 to 4 players. In its current incarnation, the game is not one of “player elimination” or direct conflict.
The Mapboard is divided into “Sol” and 3 “Travel Zones”. At start, all players may go to Travel Zone I as they all possess “Jump I” drives.
Sol (Earth) is a “Zone” unto itself.
Travel Zone I will consist of 40 stars all connected to Sol (Earth). 20 of these stars will be connected to Travel Zone II. The remaining 20 stars will be connected to other stars within Travel Zone I. Note this will create 20 “choke points” distributed around the map.
Travel Zone II will consist of 35 stars, 20 will be connected to stars in Travel Zone I, 15 will be connected to other stars within Travel Zone II and 10 to stars in Travel Zone III. The ten “choke points” from Travel Zone II to Travel Zone III will be located between the 20 “choke points” established from travel Zone I to II.
Travel Zone III will consist of 15 stars. Ten (10) will be connected to one star in Travel Zone II and all the others to 2 other stars in Travel Zone III.
Movement is from 1 system to another via displayed connections. Advanced Travel will later increase the movement value to 2 systems. Exploration is limited to one system per turn regardless of movement value. Systems cannot be “bypassed” if unexplored.
There will be 3 decks of cards, one for each Travel Zone. Deck I for Travel Zone I, Deck II for Travel Zone II and Deck III for Travel Zone III. The cards in each deck will be approximately 80% “good” for the player and 20% “bad”.
Not all cards have yet been created, these are the ones in consideration thus far. Cards will be defined as “play immediately” unless otherwise stated. VP cards must be “kept in hand” along with select other cards (and are capable of being “taken” by opposing players).
Deck I will consist of 45 cards. Remove one (1) Improved Jump Drive and the three (3) Alien Ruins cards from the deck. The remainder will be shuffled and then 5 cards removed randomly from the deck. The Improved Jump Drive and Alien Ruins cards will then be added back into the deck and then re-shuffled.
The cards of Deck I shall be as follows;
Alien Ruins (3) Gain 1 VP.
Artifact Found! (2) Allows movement to Travel Zone II.
Espionage! (2) Spies “take” 1 VP from any 1 opponent.
Industrial Boom! (4) Add one ship (maximum of 2) to your fleet. Do not lose your turn. May save for future use.
Political Turmoil (2) Government in disarray- opponent loses one turn. Play just before your opponent makes his move (and before or after he plays any cards).
Deck II will consist of 40 cards. Remove one (1) Mineral Deposit Card and the two (2) Scientific Breakthrough cards from the deck. The remainder will be shuffled and then 5 cards removed randomly from the deck. The Mineral Deposit and Scientific Breakthrough cards will then be added to the deck and then the deck will be re-shuffled.
The cards of Deck II shall be as follows;
Advanced Travel Drive (4) Your ships may now move 2 spaces instead of the normal one.
Mineral Deposit (2) Allows movement to Travel Zone III.
Misjump (2) Vessel is lost.
Scientific Breakthrough (2) Gain 2 VPs.
Deck III will consist of 20 cards. Remove the Alien Contact card from the deck. These will be shuffled and then 5 removed randomly from the deck. Replace the Alien Contact card into the deck and re-shuffle.
The cards of Deck III shall be as follows;
Alien Contact! (1) Discoverer gains 3 VPs.
Deep Plant (2) Deep cover spy defects with critical information. Take one card from opponents hand. Must be played before opponent reveals a card.
Virus Infection (1) Alien “bug” wipes out colony. Remove an opponents Discovery Token from any system and replace it with your own (he loses one VP and you gain one). Must be played immediately.
Tokens representing ships will be colored coded and 2 of each color will be available. Additionally a number of matching wooden tokens – called Discovery Tokens (40 of each) will be needed to mark exploration VPs.
The first player to make an improvement; such as Artifact Found (which allows movement to Travel Zone II from Travel Zone I) or Advanced Drive (which allows the movement value of ships to increase by 1), is allowed exclusive use of that ability – for 3 turns. After that time, all other players gain that ability as well.
All players can have up to 2 vessels (maximum) in play. To replace a lost vessel costs a player 1 turn (unless using a Industrial Boom card). The replacement vessel shows up at Sol or at any system in which that player has a Discovery Token in a “previous Zone” (if any ship is in Travel Zone III, then ships may be replaced in Sol, Travel Zones I or II; If a ship has entered Travel Zone II, then replacement ships may be placed only in Sol or Travel Zone I; If a ship has not yet entered Travel Zones II or III, then replacement ships may only be placed on Sol).
The game offers 100 VPs. As follows;
90 1VP for each system explored.
3 1 VP cards in Travel Zone I
2 2 VP cards in Travel Zone II
1 3 VP card in Travel Zone III
The player with the most awarded VPs win. In case of a tie, the player with most VPs from cards wins.
Variations/Expansions under consideration
Adding “armor” and “weapons” to ships so as to allow direct player vs. player conflict (and possible elimination from game play?).
Allowing “colonization” – colonized systems block travel by opponents.
Movement from Travel Zone to Travel Zone without first discovering the advanced travel cards.
Adding “distinction” to vessels. Having “warships” and “scouts” for example.
Adding “merchant” abilities to systems. Giving certain systems (determined randomly) mineral resources needed to maintain/create “distinct” vessels (see above).
“Theme” the game along the lines of a Sci Fi series such as Star Gate SG1 or Star Trek. The systems could be named for systems mentioned in the series (with art from stills) with the cards being re-titled to match “discoveries”, “improvements”, “first contacts” and “enemies" in the various genre.
Mayors of Rumbletown
Players place randomly-drawn 10x10 mini-boards to make the game board, making sure edges with rivers match up.
They then buy and place power plants, waterworks, landfills, and other facilities, marking them with tokens of their color. They also buy and place roads to connect everything, and when they've met code, they can place homes, which bring them money each turn. Players can place pieces to disrupt their opponents' plans, and if they are running out of money or space, can give a percentage of their housing profits to use opponents' facilities.
Each piece has its own cost and placement rules. For example, waterworks and hydroelectric plants must be placed next to water, landfills can't be near anything but roads, residential pieces have to touch two roads which are connected to available power/ water/ landfill, mansions (which bring in extra money per turn) have to be near a lake or golf course, etc. Note: my sketch doesn't follow these rules.
There's one more problem: the whole valley is shot through with seismic fault lines! When players push their luck too far, an earthquake will shift the mini-boards, playing havoc with anything connected along the seam(s).
Who will emerge the Mayor of Rumbletown, and when the dust settles, will there be anything left to govern?
Note: Two weeks after I got the original idea for this game, a 6.1 earthquake hit within 100 miles of my city, followed by another 24 hours later. Anyone up for a game of Jumanji?
EDIT: I apologize if this isn't quite the way to do it, but I'm retracting my previous entry, Unnamed Adventure, and replacing it with this one, which actually has a chance of getting finished in the time limit...
Ok, I hope I did this right. Here goes. This is a co-op game from 1-8 players. You have just crashed landed on a planet. You randomly play one of the survivors of the crash. You could the pilot, passanger or even(if i can figure it out) a prisoner.
Each turn you have but 1 action you can do. The 6 actions that you can preform are Explore, scavange, mine, repair, Rest, Fight. The board consist of 3 hexs worth of rings. Starting in the middle at the crash site you explore the planet in hopes of finding the ship the your sensors picked up right before you crashed. Sadly the planet has 2 suns and therefore is extremly hot and arid. If you can find a source of water then everyone gets another action. If you can find the oxygen tanks(for lack of a better name) then you personal get another action.
Once you find the ship (a lifeboat basicaly) you have to fix if it needs repair. You may be required to find one of the 3 local mines for the needed items. OR you may have to scavange things from the crash site. You might find a solar powered car or weapons. Areas may have enconters (like those from arkham horrors other worlds) or time may simple pass. As time passes an total eclipse happens. Hopefuly your off planet by then otherwise the nocturnal horrors awaken and they are hungery. Name of game When darkness falls. Oh yea if you happen to be the prisoner you dont want to leave the planet with the police/bounty hunter(s) alive.
In Chaos Quest you are partied with a band of adventurers the likes of which have never been seen! In a dungeon which has never been seen! Battling monsters which have never been seen! And... ... well, maybe you get the point.
Loosely inspired by 1000 Blank White Cards, Munchkin, Descent, Betrayal at House on the Hill, and any other modular-board board game, Chaos Quest pits the players against Chaos. Pure randomosity, well, to a degree.
A stack of 3.5" index cards (cut in half to make squares)
A bunch of D6's
Be the first adventurer to reach the Ultimate Artifact of Near Certain Doom and Death and inevitably betray your companions as you take the fame, glory, and riches for yourself!
In Chaos Quest all of the dungeons, adventurers, monsters, and loot are generated by the players. To begin each adventurer should create the following:
1 adventurer card
1 artifact card
10 monster cards
3 skill cards
10 treasure cards
15 dungeon tiles
Totaling 41 cards. Fudge these numbers around for longer or shorter games.
It may seem like a lot of work, but setup is supposed to be half the fun!
To create your adventurer card:
- Grab a full index card
- Give yourself a name
- Draw a picture of your adventurer
- Make columns for four attributes; strength (S), intellect (I), dexterity (D), and luck (L)
Now, roll 4 D6's. Each die is then placed into a skill. Finally, you have 6 free points to divvy up however you choose.
To create the dungeon deck:
- Each player takes 15 cards to create their dungeon tiles with.
- Each dungeon tile must contain:
-- Some colourful dungeon artwork
-- 2-4 exits (one potential door or exit on each of the four edges of the card)
- Additionally each dungeon tile may contain any combination of the following:
-- A depiction of a monster (resulting in the adventurer facing a monster)
-- A depiction of treasure / loot / swag /etc (resulting in the drawing of treasure)
-- An event or circumstance specific to the room.
To create the monster deck:
- Each player takes 10 cards to create monsters with
- Each player rolls a number of dice equal to the number of adventurers. This is your stat pool.
- Each monster must have the following:
-- A title or name
-- An illustration
-- A stat it attacks with (it doesn't have to make sense, but try to explain it with illustrations! if the ogre wants to attack with luck, have him wield a club made of rabbits feet, or some similar facsimile)
-- A value for its stat; to determine this roll 2d6 and add any number of points you like from your stat pool.
To create the skill deck:
- Each player takes 3 cards to create skills with
- Use your wildest imagination when coming up with skills, but keep it fun. Some examples of good skills might be:
-- Marksman: The player may reroll one attack per turn if he is using a ranged weapon.
-- Shapeshifter: The player may assume the form and primary stat of any creature he has defeated in combat. This must be announced before entering combat.
-- Nobility: Once per game the player may demand equipment, assistance, or a snack from the kitchen from another adventurer.
- Some bad skills might be:
-- I automatically win the game
-- +100 to all attributes
-- Make up any skill I want anytime i want
You have a lot of power when you're making these skills. Don't let it get to your head. And remember, other players might end up with the skills you created!
To create the treasure deck:
- Each player takes 10 cards to create treasure cards with
- Each player rolls a number of dice equal to the number of adventurers. This is your bonus pool.
- Each treasure must have the following:
-- A title
-- An illustration
-- A number of required hands (0-2)
- Each treasure may have any combination of the following:
-- A trap the player must overcome when he/she draws the treasure (or else suffers the consequences listed on the card)
-- A curse which affects the player for a duration listed on the card (if it reduces stats this comes out of your bonus pool)
-- A bonus to a particular stat (which comes out of your bonus pool)
-- Any other effects or circumstances around drawing or wearing the item
To create the artifact deck:
- Each player rolls four dice. These represent the stat bonuses that the UAoNCDaD (Ultimate Artifact of Near Certain Doom and Death, henceforth referred to as "The Artifact") will grant the wielder in future games should they find it.
- These values are now noted at the bottom of the card and can be allocated however the player desires between the four primary attributes (which is to say any number of dice can be pooled into a single attribute)
- Add an additional effect to the text of the card. The artifact may be discarded in future games to acquire the desired effect (as such, the effect should likely be quite powerful)
* Additionally, the artifact card must contain a title and an illustration.
The first player to finish his tasks is responsible for coming up with an entrance to the dungeon. You could start outside the dungeon gates or have just climbed down a well, surrounded with possibilities on all four sides. The choice is yours!
Starting the Game
What? You mean we haven't started yet?
Take the four artifacts and shuffle them up. Take the lower quarter of the dungeon deck and shuffle one artifact into it. Discard the other three artifacts for now without looking (these can be reused in future games should you desire).
Roll a die to see who goes first. Take turns drawing three skills and choosing two of them to keep. The third skill is shuffled back into the deck for the next person to draw. The last player to choose gets to draw four skills and choose two (a mild concession for having to choose from skills other people didn't want).
All players start with one random treasure.
All players place a token or counter of their choosing on the starting tile (thimble, coin, miniature, i don't care).
Turns are taken in order starting with the first player.
A player may move to one new tile per turn.
If the next area is unexplored flip over a new dungeon tile and place it appropriately. If it can not logically fit, discard it.
A player may choose to draw any tile of his choosing from the discard pile instead of drawing from the face-down deck.
Follow the instructions listed. Dungeon tiles are resolved in the order of Monsters, Treasure, Events (unless otherwise noted by the event on the dungeon tile).
Roll a D6 and add the appropriate attribute to it. If the monster is attacking you with Luck, you must defend with Luck, Strength with Strength, and so on. You defeat the monster if your combined skill is greater than the monsters. A roll of 1 halves your natural skill (rounding up) and a roll of 6 doubles your natural skill (rounding up). This means a skill of 5 will automatically defeat a monster with a skill of 4 or less unless a 1 is rolled.
If the combat is a success draw a treasure card and ignore any traps! Curses still apply.
If you are defeated in combat and have no means to stay alive, discard a treasure of your choice and remove your token from the dungeon. On your next turn place your token back onto the starting area, this turn is now over and otherwise a waste.
If a dungeon tile indicates that treasure should be drawn, draw two treasure cards and choose one of them. Shuffle the other back into the deck. Follow any instructions, traps, curses, or events listed on the treasure card.
Attacking another player:
If you land in the same tile as another player you may choose to attack them with a skill of your choice. Both players roll a die and add their skills up (including effects from 1's and 6's and any items or curses that may be in effect). The winning player may take any item from the opposing player (except for previously acquired artifacts which are bound to their owners). The defeated player treats this as a death, and removes their token from the game board. They may use their next turn to place their game token on the starting point.
If an adventurer reveals an artifact tile during a move, the adventurer must immediately battle three monsters which guard the ancient relic. These monsters must both be defeated to claim the prize! If the adventurer is defeated in combat any remaining monsters continue to stand guard and are placed face up on the tile containing the artifact. Any player may now enter this room and attempt victory!
Should all monsters be defeated, the adventurer claims his artifact and is immediately teleported out of the dungeon. Of course, dramatically, the dungeon crumbles to dust and the remaining adventurers die horrible horrible deaths.
The surviving player may add one point to any skill of his choosing. Additionally, he gets to use the artifact in future games, as well as any items or skills he currently possesses. In future games, skills may be discarded in order to draw new ones. Each player may only have two skills at any time. Any cursed items or effects the player carries remain between games. Additionally, a player may only have one artifact at a time.
Notes: I've hardly even given it a proofreading so there might be some problems with it, but it's late now and I wanted to get it posted. I'd also like to draw up some example cards for each category to get the creative juices flowing. Also, as this has never been playtested to any degree (seeing as I just wrote it over the past hour) it might be horribly unbalanced. You might wade through monsters or never be able to defeat them. Who knows!? But maybe half the fun in this not knowing.
Anyways, I hope you all enjoy the game writeup, I actually had a lot of fun writing it up. And if anybody actually decides to give the game a go, please lemme know how it goes.
War of the Sci-Fi Lords (WotSFL)
I should have looked at some entries before starting this, but I didn't want to be influenced. So if this format sux, sorry
Anyway, this idea is inspired by a conversation on the Board Games Designers Forum, where I mentioned Orson Scott Card and his Worthing Saga.
Disregarding copyrights for the moment, WotSFL brings together the worlds created by different science fiction authors, slings them violently into the void and declares a free-for-all.
Each author has at least one "book", which is a complete listing of every asset available to the player who selects that book:
1. the Homeworld - the main planet from the author's story
2. the hero
3. the villain
4. indigenous aliens
5. the technology - including weapons, armor and engines
6. the ships
7. the coveted resource
Other game equipment include a map of the universe with six main homeworld placeholders, numbered 1 through 6; two six-sided dice; six different colored chips and matching spaceship; pencils and scratch pads.
The game begins with the selection of books and the passing out of ships and chips for up to six players. Each book has a unique number and players will take their turn from lowest number to highest number.
The first turn involves placing the chip and ship on any unoccupied homeworld placeholder. Once all the homeworlds have been established. the fun begins.
I'll stop here to see if I'm doing this right
Concept - Shogi Variant
Oriental Fantasy Theme
Units with Special Abilities
Cards for Spells and Magic
Earlier I created another game (Blokus Racing). After reading about this challenge, I wondered if there was a way to reuse the cards in a totally different game. I thought about it for a couple of days, then I put this together. I haven't playtested yet, but plan to before the contest is over to make needed corrections (there are ALWAYS needed corrections).
I only create simple games (I'm lazy).
I use NanDeck to create my cards (and sometimes my gameboards).
This game is played on a 6x6 grid.
The cards contain shapes like in Blokus (hence the name).
All files are available on http://unfinishedgames.dynalias.net/
Now on to the rules...
Blokus Fight rules.
A simple strategy/card game for 2-4 players.
Decide who goes first.
Player #1 = Blue.
Player #2 = Red.
Player #3 = Green.
Player #4 = Yellow.
Deal out a starting hand of 5 cards per player.
Each player has 3 movement points per round.
Players start on the board location indicated facing the direction indicated.
In turn, each player will:
Spend their movement points. There are 3 options for each point:
1) move forward 1 square.
2) rotate 90 degrees.
3) do nothing.
Play cards. They may play as many cards as they can, up to all 5.
However, to play a card The pattern must start at the player,
continue in the facing direction, and end on an opposing player.
A point is scored for each card played.
If no card is played, the player may discard one card.
Draw back up to a 5 card hand.
The first player to 10 points wins.
Played cards go in a discard pile to be reshuffled and reused when the deck runs out.
A merchant of Baghdad placed five coins in his servant’s hands and sent him to the market for provisions. But shortly the servant returned, gasping and ashen-faced.
The merchant steadied him by the shoulders, asking, “What troubles you, my son?”
“At the market… a woman jostled me… I turned… and it was Death.” The servant shuddered. “She looked at me, making a threatening gesture! I beg you, Master, lend me your horse that I may ride from this city. I will flee to Samarra, and Death shall not find me there!”
The merchant granted him his horse, and the servant mounted it, digging his heels into its flanks and riding from Baghdad as fast as the horse could go.
The merchant pondered awhile, then took up his walking stick and went to the marketplace. He saw Death among the crowd, and approached her.
“Why did you make a threatening gesture at my servant?” he asked.
“That was not a gesture of threat, but surprise,” she replied softly. “I was astonished to see him in Baghdad, for I have an appointment with him tonight in Samarra.”
— an ancient Middle Eastern tale
In Death at Samarra, you must protect your Servant while stalking your opponent's pieces. But which piece is his Servant, and which is Death? Your Merchant can reveal another piece's identity, but in doing so, unmasks himself.
This two-player game of bluffing and hidden strategy plays quickly, but uniquely each time. How well can you outguess the person across the table?
~ ~ ~ ~ ~
Half asleep the night of August 13th, I happened to think of a short story my friend wrote which contained this fable, and as I drifted off, pictured a game which involved a servant trying to avoid Death as he traveled between two desert cities. But there wasn't enough to make it an interesting game...
At about 1 am I woke up and couldn't get back to sleep. And then I had ideas for making the identities of the pieces hidden, and eventually added the merchant for unpredictability/complexity. I grabbed my laptop, wrote down some notes, and threw together this graphic in Illustrator:
The next day I drew up a black-and-white version, using clipart fonts available for commercial use at www.dafont.com for the three characters.
I produced it that weekend, and played a session of 10 games or so with a friend. The original version had round pieces and the three characters' portraits snapped into the bases. This didn't work very well when I tried it, and unnecessarily hid the identities from both players, instead of just the opponent.
After considering a Stratego-like stand, I settled on the tents with symbols. This worked much better, and another session of 15 games played very smoothly, though we were still working on the rules.
I submitted an entry on BGG, which was approved two days ago, and the image and PDF file were approved yesterday and today. Here's a thumbnail of the game pieces page:
Download the two-page PDF at www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/38332, and check it out, give it a rating.
My friend and I aren't grand strategists, so I'd really like to see how it works for other people. Let me know how well the rules read. Maybe someone with a more mathematical mind can tell me if the "one move on the first turn, two thereafter" thing really offsets the first turn advantage. Since the set up is hidden, mirroring isn't a problem, but maybe someone can see a perfect attack or perfect defense, or break the game some other way.
Criticism welcome (especially of the constructive sort). If it goes over well, I'll incorporate changes, and make the Second Edition color.
Just had an idea this morning... Still sketchy but the game is called "HordeZ" and it's a little Zombie attack game that can be solo/competitive/cooperative.... and it's a bit like the old Asteroids electronic game...
Ok, let's improvise a simple party game. I'll call it:
(but better names are welcome).
PLAYERS: 3-15 (or more?)
MATERIALS: you need as many cards as the number of players; one of the cards will show a LIAR! symbol. To do this you can just use a deck of poker cards and decide that the Joker is the Liar card.
You also need a three minutes time (a sand timer is the best, but a clock will do).
Uh, and you need pencil and paper to track a score, or a honest friend with a very good memory!
SETUP: shuffle the cards and deal them to the players, face down. The player who receives the LIAR! card is the Liar for this round.
The dealer turns starts the timer and asks the first question...
QUESTION TIME!: the dealer asks a question to the player on his left. This player answers, then he asks a question to the left, and so on.
You can ask ANY kind of question that involve an honest answer; for example "do you like cats more than dogs?", "have you ever cut yourself while shaving?", "are you in love?".
When you answer, you HAVE to be honest... unless you are the Liar. The Liar MUST answer with a false statement every time.
ROUND ENDS: question time ends after three minutes, then... all together, everybody points his finger at who they think is the Liar.
- the Liar scores one point for each of the other players who do NOT identify him/her, but scores ZERO if noone identifies him. So, with N players, he can score zero to N-1 points in a round.
- a non-Liar scores only if he/she has correctly pointed at the Liar.
The score is the number of players that pointed at the Liar (his/her vote counts, too!). So, with N players, he can score zero to N-1 points in a round, just like the Liar!
SO: the Liar wants to be identified by at least one person, but not by too many people, while the other players just try to catch the Liar.
A NEW ROUND: the Liar is the new dealer; he/she shuffles the deck and starts another round.
GAME END: after five rounds (15 minutes of play + some minutes of scoring and beer and pretzels, so it's a 30 minutes game...) the game ends; who's got the most points is the winner!
MMMMMM... WILL THIS WORK???: please note that I've never ever playtested this, because the rules will exist in the world only the moment I press the "Save" button, so... I'm starting to think: WHY should a player answer correctly? The best tactic is to act as a Liar, so other players will point at you and they will not score.
Well, in my mind this COULD work because if you identify the Liar you score as many points as the number of players that pointed at him/her, so you do NOT want to confuse the others.
BUT! - maybe I can introduce something like a "False Liar Token": you get one everytime someone accuses you to be the Liar (and you are not!). If you collect more tokens that the number of players during the game you are out of the game and cannot win anymore.... or you just lose half your points and discard your tokens.
Someone, please, playtest this stuff!
...and please forgive me if my English is not perfect: if you have any question about the rules feel free to ask, I will not lie about them!
Confusion Under Fire
Attack of the Zombie Hordes
My wargaming interests are mainly tactical and I have not been interested in campaign games, but after reading about such games as Field Commander: Rommel and Breakout: Normandy my interest was piqued. So off I set to make a game on a larger area than a couple of KMs.
I have always been interested in fighting over my own town/county/country/ etc and so I decided I would be fighting over the United Kingdom. The obvious areas would be the old counties and as maps would be easier to find thats what I settled for.
As I know nothing of mechanics of campaign games I decided to go with a non historical type game and at first I was going to use aliens, but after a little thinking decided these were too advanced, I wanted a slow advance over the UK. The idea of using "things from the night" appealed and for a long time this was going to be the theme, in fact these might be a more suitable enemy than zombies, but zombies had an appeal and they stuck.
Just to put you in the mood here is the opening paragraph.
April 1st 1947. Britain was rebuilding herself after the last two world wars. Hitler and Nazism had been defeated. People were in high spirits and had a good future to look forward to. But little did they know that Hitler with his dabblings in the occult and the runes of ancient Egypt had conjured up something that no man on Earth was prepared for. His ultimate master plan was about to be released on an very unsuspecting country. No one in the South west of England had thought the water tasted any different and when the first Zombies rose all over Cornwall and Devon everyone thought it was some well organised April fools day trick. That was until the bloodbath started.
I have produced some very simplistic counters and the rules are simple too, but with a unique (how many times have I said that) method of attack and defence. I will not post the whole of the rules until I have printed off the map and done some playtesting, but a couple of interesting items.
1) The British player has to earn his units, the zombie player gets his for free up to the maximum stacking limit. (I say players here but there is a good chance the game may be solitaire, but both are viable options)
2) The counters have just 2 bits of information on them. an icon telling which side the counter belongs to and a number from 1 to 6. Heres that nifty little attack and defence method I mentioned before. You roll a 6 sided die all counters with numbers higher than the roll do not count in this attack or defence. All counters with the exact die roll are doubled and any below the die roll are counted as their printed number. So quite often a good range of numbers is handy to have. Too many high numbers and you are going to be lucky to record any kills. Depending on which phase it is, Morning, afternoon, evening or night depends on how many kills you inflict.
There is also a simple science resource for the British player which enables you to develop, these resource points are gathered from cities that are under your command and can be used to buy more troops or used towards a final answer to the problem.
If I can get the balance right, then this should be quite a decent game. The zombies will be overwhelming at first but the Brits should start to push back, hopefully before too many cities are conceded.
For all you Brits out there why not try to protect your own county, but let me apologise in advance as several offshore islands have had to be omitted.
NB. For this game certain islands have been omitted from the map. The Western Isles in Scotland, Isle of Man and the Scilly Isles have been omitted.
For this game only the Isle of Wight is part of Hampshire. The Isle of Anglesey is part of Gwynedd. I apologise if this has caused offence to anyone but none was intended. For this game my zombies cannot cross large expanses of water.
Empires - Draft Version 1.2
Empires is two player adventure/war game where you create a little world, populate it with armies and heroes, and then proceed to wage war with your troops while having funny little adventures with your heroes.
To play you’ll need:
Sheets of paper (3) - used to create the world and keep track of what your hero is carrying and how he is feeling. You also keep track of how much gold you have on your piece of paper.
Pennies (20 exactly) - these are troops!
Nickels (4 exactly) - these are heroes and sidekicks!
6-sided dice (2) - you can roll them furiously!
SET UP - a two phase process
Each player takes 5 pennies, 1 sheet of paper, and 2 nickels. Each player starts the game with 1 gold. Game on!
Phase 1: Create the game board.
Draw a large square on one piece of paper.
Next, draw 2 horizontal and 2 vertical lines to divide the large square into 9 smaller squares.
Next, randomly determine who will go first. This person controls the Great Empire of Heads. The other player governs the Mighty Empire of Tails.
The King of Heads draws an Object - an Object being a tower (a rectangle), a mine (a dollar sign), a city (a circle), a forest (a triangle), or the dungeon (an arch) - on one square of the game board. There can only be 1 Object per square. Draw the Objects in the upper right corner of the square.
The King of Tails player then draws an Object - a tower, a mine, city, a forest, or the dungeon - on a different square.
Alternate play until every square has one object drawn on it.
RULES REGARDING OBJECTS:
1. There game board must contain 2 OR 3 towers.
2. There must be exactly 1 dungeon. No more and no less!
3. There must be at least 1 mine
4. There must be at least 1 forest.
4. There must be 2 OR 3 cities in the world.
River: The final object on the Board is the River which is drawn by the King of Tails. The river flows through 3 contiguous squares. The two ends of the river must flow off the edge of the map. After drawing the river, the King of Tails draws an arrow in the river showing which direction it flows.
Here are 2 examples of how the river could be drawn (R = river):
1 R 3 1 R 3
R R 6 4 R 6
7 8 9 7 R 9
Phase Two: Control Territory
Now, the King of Heads player claims one territory by placing one or more coins onto a square. Pennies are "troops" and nickels are "heroes". As you may have guessed, the King of Heads places his coins face up.
The King of Tails then claims one square by placing one or more coins onto a square. The King of Tails places his coins face down i.e. “tails” side up.
Alternate play until each player has placed his or her initial allotment of coins. The last player to place a coin or coins, goes first.
RULES REGARDING PLACEMENT:
1. You may only control 1 tower at the beginning of the game.
2. If you place troops or your hero in a square with a river you must place each coin on one side of the river or the other. Thus, you can have some coins on one side of the river, and other coins on the other side of the river.
OBJECT OF THE GAME: Control all towers at the beginning of your turn OR eliminate all of your opponents’ troops OR find the Artifact in the dungeon and return it to a tower.
You control a square if you have troops there and your opponent does not. Heroes cannot control squares or interfere with control.
GAME PLAY - This is how you play the game.
Every turn you will do these things in this order:
1. Mine For each mine you control, gain 1 gold.
2. Recruit: If you control a city, you can recruit new troops.
3. Move: Move troops into 1 square or out of 1 square; then move your hero.
4. Resolve Combat: Troops battle it out. YARGH!!!
5. Evade/Explore (Hero only): Your hero evades his enemy and tries to have an adventure.
1. Mine Gain 1 gold for each mine you control.
2. Recruiting: If you control at least 1 city, you can spend 1 gold to recruit 1 troop. During your turn, you may only recruit 1 troop into each city you control.
There are only 20 pennies in the game. This means there can only be 20 troops on the field (total) so if you have 12 troops your opponent can only field 8.
2. Movement: Each turn you can move some troops and your hero.
Troops: Troops have a movement of 1. Movement is orthogonal (not diagonal). If you move troops into a square, all troops within a range of 1 can move into the selected territory. If you move troops out of a square, you can move any or all troops out of the square.
If you spend 1 gold, you can move 1 troop 2 squares. You can spend more gold to move more than 1 troop the extra square.
Heroes: Heroes have a movement of 2 unless they are carrying 3 items. If a hero is carrying 3 items he is encumbered and can only move 1 square. You can spend a gold to have your hero move an extra space.
Rivers: If a square has a river flowing through it, it takes 1 movement to move from one side of the river to the other side unless you control a forest. If you control a forest, you have access to boats and can don’t have to spend a movement point to cross the river.
You can also use the river to move further on your turn. If a troop or hero starts its movement in a river square, the unit can move 1 square along a river (in the direction of the current without crossing the river) for free – and then take the rest of its movement normally.
3. Resolve Combat: If troops of opposing forces are in the same square, combat occurs. If there is more than 1 combat, the active player chooses the order in which the combats will be resolved.
The attacking player rolls the six sided die and adds the number of troops present to his total. If his Hero is in the square he can reroll once. If the attacking player controls a forest and is attacking a city or a tower, he adds 1 to his total (because he can build siege engines).
The defending player then rolls a die, and adds his troops to the total. If the defending player’s troops are in a forest tower or a city, he adds 1 to his total. If the defending player’s troops are in a square with the river, he adds an additional 1 to his total. If his Hero is present, he can reroll once.
If the attacking player’s value equals or exceeds the defending player’s value, the defending player loses a troop and his remaining troops retreat. If his troops cannot retreat, they are routed.
If the defending player’s value exceeds the attacking player’s value, the attacking player loses a troop and withdraws. If the attacker’s troops cannot withdraw, they are routed.
Retreat/Withdraw: All you troops immediately gain 1 movement which can only be used to move to an adjacent unoccupied or friendly square. A friendly square is a square containing only your troops or your hero. If you cannot retreat/withdraw, your troops are routed.
Routed: Remove your troops from the square, discard ½ of your troops rounding up. Place any remaining troops on a tower or city you control. If you don’t control a tower or a city, all troops are lost.
4. Evade/Explore: If your hero is in a square with enemy troops present, he must evade the enemies before he can explore.
Evade: The player controlling the hero rolls 2d6. If he is in the forest, mines, or dungeon he adds 1 to his total, on any other square he subtracts 1 from his total.
The other player then rolls 1d6 and adds the number of troops present to his total.
If the hero’s evasion value equals or exceeds the total of the troops looking for him, the hero has evaded capture. Otherwise, the hero is caught! Being Captured! is explained below under conditions.
Explore: If your hero is not Captured! and he is in a city, tower, forest or dungeon square - roll a d6. This is an exploration roll. What happens depends on the square you are in. Consult the charts below:
1. A witch demands an item! Give her an item or she Curses you! See conditions below.
2. You meet a Pickpocket: Roll a d6, on a roll of 1-4, your opponent chooses and crosses out an item that your hero is carrying (if you have any). On a roll of 5 or 6 you catch the pickpocket and gain his lockpicks (item)
3. Get drunk at the bar and gamble. You hero is now Drunk! (see conditions): Roll a d6. On a roll of 1-3: Discard an item of your choice. On a roll of 4-5: Gain 1 gold . On a roll of 6: Gain 2 gold!
4. Stroll through the Market. You can buy a sword (item) or a shield (item). It costs 1 gold to buy an item. You can only buy 1 item per turn.
5. Pray at the temple. Get a token of faith (item).
6. Run into an old friend at the Inn: You can spend a gold to recruit a Sidekick. If recruit a Sidekick, place a nickel underneath your hero. If you are Captured! Or Injured! you can sacrifice your sidekick to escape or avoid injury. [You must do this immediately upon being Captured or Injured! by removing the nickel from underneath your hero.] You may only have 1 sidekick at a time. Sidekicks also add +1 any exploration or combat roll you make during a turn.
7+ You convince the Royal Cartographer to aid you: Take the map to the dungeon (item).
1. Bandits surround you and take all your gold.
2. You become Lost! in the woods. See Conditions below.
3. A hungry bear attacks you. Combat occurs. Roll a d6. Add 1 to your total if you have the sword or axe. If your total is 4 or less you are Injured!
4. A Woodsman will sell you an axe (item) for 1 gold.
5. You find a pure forest spring. Gain a Potion of Healing.
6. You find a 4 leaf clover (item). How lucky!
7. The Fairy Queen thinks you’re cute and gives the blessing of the forest. You are Blessed! See conditions below.
1. You cross paths with a Necromancer. Combat occurs. Roll a d6. If you have a sword, add 2 to this roll. If your total is 5 or less, you are Injured! Being Injured! is explained below. If you defeat the Necromancer, take the Zombie Scroll.
2. You cross paths with a Sorcerer who tries to muddle your mind. Roll a d6. If you have a token of faith add 2 to this roll. If your total is 4 or less, you are Befuddled! See conditions below.
3. Roll a d6. On a roll of 4-6, you stumble upon the Magic Bazaar. You can buy a flying carpet (item), a magic mirror (item), or a ring of command (item). It costs 1 gold to buy an item. You can only buy 1 item per turn.
4. A Priestess blesses you: If you have the token of faith, she bestows a Blessing! upon you. (See conditions below). Otherwise, gain a token of faith (item).
5. Visit the alchemist’s lab. You can buy a potion of invisibility (item), a potion of wisdom (item), or a potion of healing (item). It costs 1 gold to buy an item. You can only buy 1 item per turn.
6. Visit the Wizard’s store. You can buy a Fireball Scroll (item), an Authority Scroll (item), or a Wand of Seeking (item). It costs 1 gold to buy an item. You can only buy 1 item per turn.
7+ The archmagi favors your cause and gives you a key (item) to the dungeon.
1. There’s a cave in! Roll a d6. On a roll of 1-5, you are Injured! Being Injured! is explained below.
2. You are discovered by the Dragon: Combat occurs. Roll a d6. If you have a sword add 2 to this roll. If your total is 6 or less, you are Injured! and the Dragon takes all your gold. You can give the Dragon 2 gold to avoid combat.
3. A Giant Snake rears up to strike you! Combat occurs. Roll a d6. If you have a sword or axe, add 1 to this roll. If you have a shield, add 1 to this roll. If your total is 5 or less, you are Poisoned! See conditions below.
4. Lost! If you don’t have the Map you are Lost! See conditions below.
5. Something sparkles on the floor. You find a gold nugget. Gain 1 gold.
6. Wand: Find a wand of wishes.
7+ Treasure: Gain 2 gold. If you have the key or the axe open the chest to gain the Artifact. If you don’t have key, you can try to pick the lock (if you have lock picks) or smash the lock (if you have an axe). If you have the axe or lock picks roll d6 and on a roll of 4, 5 or 6 you open the chest and gain the Artifact.
Befuddled! – Subtract 2 from all evasion rolls. You movement is reduced to 1. You have to travel to a city to remove this condition. Remove this condition instead of exploring the city.
Blessed! - add 1 to all exploration rolls until affected by another condition. Then cross this condition out. You can also cross out this condition to avoid being Captured!
Captured! – Place the hero under a troop. Discard all your items. Your hero cannot act until the troop that has captured him is defeated or he escapes. During the evade phase you can attempt to escape. You need to roll a "6" to escape. You do not get to take an adventure if you escape.
Cursed! - At any time, your opponent can cross out the Curse (eliminating it) to subtract 2 from an exploration roll (minimum 1).
Drunk! - Next turn your movement is 1 and you subtract -1 from any exploration roll. Then cross out this condition.
Injured! – Remove your hero from the board. Discard an item of your choice. Place you hero into the nearest city.
Lost! – Remove your hero from the board. During the exploration phase, roll a D6. If you roll a 5-6, cross out Lost! and place your hero back onto the square containing the dungeon. On a roll of 1, you become
Injured! Cross out Lost! On any other roll you remain lost.
Poisoned! – At the end of the exploration phase, roll a d6. On a roll of 5 or 6 you become Injured! Cross out the poison. On a roll of 1 or 2, you fight off the poison. Cross out the poison.
Your hero can carry up to 3 items. If you get more items, he has to drop one or more items. Most items are consumed when you use them. You cross out these items after 1 use. Items with a (P) after their name are permanent and are not destroyed after use.
If you are carrying three items, your hero is encumbered and only has a movement of 1.
You can only buy 1 item per turn regardless of how much gold you have.
Artifact: Take this item to a tower to win the game. You win the game if you start your turn with your hero on the tower space while he has an artifact. If you lose the artifact it is returned to the dungeon. If your hero is captured by your opponent, you opponent’s hero gains the Artifact. Only 1 hero can possess the artifact.
Axe(P): Use the axe to break open the chest containing the Artifact. The axe can also be used in combat.
Authority Scroll: If you are in a city, use this spell to add 1 troop to the square you are in.
Fireball Scroll: Use this spell win any combat. You can also use this spell when enemy troops are in your square. Remove 1 enemy troop from the square.
Flying Carpet: Use the carpet to move to any space on the board.
Four Leaf Clover: Add +2 to an exploration roll.
Key(P): Helps you gain the artifact.
Lockpicks(P): Allows you to reroll your attempt to open the chest and gain the artifact.
Map(P): Add +1 to any exploration roll in the dungeon. The map also prevents you from becoming Lost! in the dungeon.
Magic Mirror: Use this item when your opponent's hero attempts to evade being Captured! Subtract 2 from his roll. Use the magic mirror BEFORE he rolls.
Potion of Healing: Use this potion to avoid becoming Injured! or Poisoned!
Potion of Invisibility. Use the potion instead of rolling for evasion this turn. You automatically avoid being captured. Use this potion instead of rolling for combat this turn. You avoid any harm, but you not collect any reward.
Potion of Wisdom: Use potion to avoid becoming Befuddled! or to add 1 to any exploration roll. Use the potion BEFORE rolling.
Ring of Command: If you hero is in the same square as your troops in combat, you can use the ring to add 1 to your total. Use the ring BEFORE rolling.
Shield: Discard the shield to avoid being Injured! or Poisoned!
Token of Faith: Use this to add 1 to any exploration roll. Use the token BEFORE rolling.
Wand of Seeking: Use this wand to avoid becoming Lost! or to add 1 to any exploration roll.
Wand of Wishes: Use the wand as any other item. When use the wand is used once, it is consumed.
Zombie Scroll: Read the zombie scroll to put a troop into the square you occupy.
Ok I have been thinking about this for a couple of days now. I am having a horror themed party next january and I would like to have a role-playish party game to play. No playtesting or numbers tweaking yet
SURVIVE THE HAUNTED HOUSE
You will need to mark a number of rooms in your house with a number. The number of rooms needed will depend on the number of players. You will also need a number of guns, but that will be determined by the number of players also.
Assemble all the players together. Secretly deal out cards face down to each player. Each player will be one of the following but they must not tell any other player what they are except the Zombie who announces who he is. There will be 1 Zombie, 1 Werewolf and 1 Vampire, all the other players will be Humans. The goal of the humans is to survive until the end of the game, the goal of all the others is to turn everyone into their type. Each game will last for a set number of rounds
The game has a series of rounds and ends after a pre-determined number. This number will depend on the number of players.
The first step of each round is that the GM will go to each room and place all the guns he has left in the rooms at random, no more than one per room.
The second step is that the non-zombie players must choose a room to enter. No more than 3 people can choose the same room. Once all the players are in a room and the doors are closed, proceed to the third step.
The third step is the zombie attack. The zombie(s) without knowing which rooms players have entered must pick a room to attack. This can be done secretly before the players pick their rooms, or the zombies can go hide and then come out and choose a room. If any players in that room have a gun, the zombies take the guns and retreat and give the guns to the GM. If the players in the room do not have a gun, they all become zombies.
The fourth step is that if there are only 2 players in a room, they reveal what they are to each other. If one of them is a vampire, the other one becomes a vampire too. If they are both werewolves, they both may leave the room with the other werewolves in step 5.
The fifth step is that any werewolf in a room by himself may leave the room. All the werewolves must decide whether to place a marker and which door to place a marker on before returning to their rooms.
After all this has taken place, all the non-zombies return to the common area and can discuss strategy before the next round starts.
Dominance is a brain burning area control game for 2 players.
Piece of Paper
20 White Tokens
20 Black Tokens
5 six-sided dice
Object To have the most influence at the end of 6 rounds.
Set-Up Draw a large square on the paper, and then use 2 horizontal and 2 vertical lines to divide the large square into 9 smaller squares:
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
Each player places 1 token on each square of the board. Randomly determine who will go first. That player is the active player.
Roll and Divide
Each round, the active player rolls 5 dice. She divides them into two sets. Each set of dice must contain 1 or more dice.
Example: The active player throws: “6” “3” “3” “2” “1”. She divides the dice into two sets. Set 1 contains the “6” and the “3”, while Set 2 contains the “3”, the “2” and the “1”.
One the dice are divided into sets, the active player’s opponent selects one set of dice. The active player takes the other set of dice.
There are 4 phases of play. Each player may commit one or more dice during phases 1 and 2.
Commit and Score
1. Reinforcements (maximum value 4)
2. Movement (maximum value 4)
3. Influence (receive influence for any dice not committed)
4. Destruction(remove tokens from the board until only one color of token remains in each square)
5. Scoring (receive influence for squares you control)
Reinforcements – During the Reinforcement phase, the active player’s opponent chooses whether to commit first. She can commit any number of dice, as long as the total value of the dice is 4 or less. She then place a number of tokens on the game board equal to value of the dice she has committed.
Tokens can be placed on any square of the game board, and she may place all of her tokens into one square or spread them out as she sees fit.
The active player then commits dice in the same manner.
Movement – Next, the active player must decide whether to commit one or more dice for movement. She can commit any number of dice, as long as the total value of the dice is 4 or less. She can then move her pieces on the board a number of times equal to the value of the dice she has committed plus 1. [This means even if you do not commit any dice, you can make 1 move].
Tokens may be moved into any adjacent square (but not diagonally). You may move a token more than once, each extra space you move the token counts as 1 of your moves.
HOWEVER, YOU MAY NOT MOVE TOKENS INTO OR OUT OF THE CENTER SQUARE.
Once the active player is done moving, her opponent decides whether to commit dice and move subject to the same restrictions as the active player.
Influence – Each player receives an amount of influence equal to 1/2 (one-half) the value (round up) of the dice that were not committed to movement or reinforcements.
Destruction - If there are tokens of more than 1 color on a space on the board, continue to remove pairs of opposite colored tokens simultaneously until only 1 color token remains or the space is empty.
Example: If there are 3 white tokens and 4 black tokens on a square, you would remove 1 white token and 1 black token simultaneously, leaving 2 white tokens and 3 black tokens. You would continue to remove pairs of opposite colored tokens until only the black token remained.
Scoring - Score 1 influence for each square you control. If you control 3 squares in a row, score an additional influence for each such row.
End of Round - The active player then passes the dice to his or her opponent, who becomes the active player, and a new round begins.
End of Game - at the end of the 6th round the game is over and whoever has the highest score wins. If there is a tie whoever controls the center square wins. You can play for 10 rounds for a longer and more intense game.