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Descent: Journeys in the Dark» Forums » General

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Andrew DiGregorio
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Hi all,

I am about to attempt my first ever painting of any miniatures, and am going to use my copy of Descent as the guinea pig.

I bought a good sampling of Testers paint, and 3 of the small artists brushes.

Anything else i might need? Anything i should know? I would rather not totally botch this job up if i can help it.

thanks!
 
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Andrew DiGregorio
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ouch.. LIBO-hate!

No, i just think that if my HellHounds had been painted, i wouldnt have rolled so many misses with them this weekend.
 
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Sean Ahern
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I haven't tried painting plastic yet but I could have sworn I saw something about paint flaking. And they linked to this webpage:

http://www.geocities.com/dbplastic/plastic/painting.html#pai...

Good luck!
 
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Read the rulebook, plan for all contingencies, and…read the rulebook again.
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slyde wrote:
Hi all,

I am about to attempt my first ever painting of any miniatures, and am going to use my copy of Descent as the guinea pig.

I bought a good sampling of Testers paint, and 3 of the small artists brushes.

Anything else i might need? Anything i should know? I would rather not totally botch this job up if i can help it.

thanks!


In all honesty, I would NOT paint soft plastic figs with Testors. Acrylics are more flexible, easier to paint with, and a breeze to clean up with water. Acrylics are inexpensive, too, so you could probably afford buying a nice selection at a good arts and crafts store.

Other than that, do your figs in batches and don't worry about "mistakes." You can always paint over a patch you don't like. Also, paint from the "skin out". That is, apply paint over the figure as if the figure were putting on clothes and equipment: skin first, hair and eyes, pants and shirts, boots and gloves, armor, equipment, weapons, surface detail last.
 
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Andrew DiGregorio
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Thanks for the suggestions guys.

Unfortunatly, i didnt see any of these until i worked on my first beastman last night.

But on the positive side, i actually think it came out looking pretty good. I used the testers, like i had said, which i had thought WAS acryllic, but apparently you guys in the know say it isnt.

Anyway, like i said i think it came out pretty cool. Ill upload a pic at some point to let people tell me what they think of it.

Someone had mentioned a finisher. I hadnt bought any. Is a finisher important? Will this paint wear? And what is finisher exactly? i would assume like a protective gloss i would paint over the figure. If people deem it important, ill probably run out and get some tonight.

Also, concerning the brushes, how do you guys wash them and keep them from getting hard?
 
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Paul DeStefano
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slyde wrote:
Also, concerning the brushes, how do you guys wash them and keep them from getting hard?


Don't use the Testors.


As for a finish, yes, it is important, these things are meant to be handled, and paint will rub off. Flat finish looks more natural but isnt as tough as gloss. Your choice.
 
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Christopher Seyer
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slyde wrote:
But on the positive side, i actually think it came out looking pretty good. I used the testers, like i had said, which i had thought WAS acryllic, but apparently you guys in the know say it isnt.


I started painting my Descent minis last month, and I'm also new to miniatures painting. Testors paint comes in either enamel or acrylic. In my limited experience, Testor's acrylic paint is fine for Descent figures. The majority of the paint I use is Apple Barrel paint from the crafts section at Wal-Mart. Each little bottle runs about 42 cents...cheap! For flesh tones, flesh wash, and metallics, I picked up some Games Workshop pots from my local game shop.

Some pics of my figs:

http://www.wargoat.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=83&start=0

For acrylic sealer, I found some good matte sealer at Hobby Lobby that doesn't leave the figures too shiny. I originally grabbed sealer at Wal-Mart (Plaid's matte sealer), but that was a little too shiny for my taste If you check my pictures, the giant is picture with the old sealer (I've since recoated him with the new stuff).
 
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Ian Clark
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I highly recommend the apple barrel/delta ceramcoat styles paints. They are cheap, which allows you to buy lots of colors. They are still good quality, too.

I have been working on my Descent minis, trying to go as basic as possible so as to not spend my life working on them. I primed them with black spray (Games Workshop stuff is best...pricey at $8, but worth it).

I then mostly drybrushed the monsters, which is fast and gives a good effect on fur/scales/etc. Drybrushing is taking some paint on your brush and then wiping (with even strokes) most of the paint off on a paper towel. Then sweep the brush over the mini and what paint remains will still to the raised areas of the mini, adding shading and depth in a simple manner.

After drybrushing, I detailed teeth, eyes, etc. Things like the spiders go fast this way. Prime in black, drybrush the furry backside and legs, pick out the teeth and eyes with white (or a dingy yellow), done. I also added a red hourglass on the back of the master spiders, and have used red to distinguish the master monsters (red robes on the wizards, etc) throughout.

You'll find that a good big brush for drybrushing gets the big guys (dragons, demons) done fast on the wings, etc.

Hope this helps.

Ian
 
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Remy Langlois
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I'm about to get this game in a few weeks (haven't gotten a game like this since the original HeroQuest back in the day!) and will definitely be painting the minis. I started painting Spring Break of '05 so in a few months I'll have a year's worth of experience. I learned a lot in that short time though.

Since these aren't going to be competition pieces, like my Reaper Sophie mini I painted a few months ago...



.... I'll be using simplier, although still very effective, techniques. Some of which have been touched up upon already here. I'll just hit up on a few of the important things to consider when painting a mini.

Some tips:

1) Mini Prep:

Clean the platic mold lines on the minis by using an xacto knife at approximately 90 degrees and "scrape" the lines away. You don't have to do this, but it'll look a lot better in the long run.

2) Primer:

Use Black primer -- Games-Workshop's Chaos Black primer actually works great for this.

I pretty much always use white primer (GW White primer is garbage IMHO so I use Floquil, Krylon and Dupli-Color instead) as this will give you a much cleaner look especially if you're color scheme is clean and bright. The black primer adds instant shading, however, and will make the painting process for gaming-quality minis a lot quicker.

Follow the directions for the primer to make sure that you prime the minis correctly or you'll fill in the detail or get a nasty sandy finish.

The primer will give your paints something to adhere to and help prevent the paint from chipping off. Don't confuse spray paint for primer. If you rub your thumb on a primed surface, you'll feel some resistance. It's this "tooth" that gives your paints something to adhere to better than simply painting on bare metal/plastic/etc.

3) Brushes:

I swear by Winsor & Newton's Series 7 (Miniature and Normal) watercolor round brushes for their superior Kolinsky sable. Vallejo and Reaper also have their own Kolinsky sable brush line and are very well made as well and more reasonable in price. You don't need these, however.

I would still suggest sable brushes, however. Vallejo and Reaper sable brushes are very reasonable and even their Kolinsky brushes are about $10.00 each. I recommend a set of Size #0, #1 and #2. A set of Vallejo Kolinsky sable brushes in these sizes will run you about $20.00 which is dirt cheap IMHO!

You're buying these brushes for their ability to hold paint, their natural spring and most importantly, their ability to hold a fine point. Sure, you can get Size #0000 and even smaller, but you can even dot pupils and even their reflective highlights with a Size #0 or even #1 if your brush has a good point.

Get a large brush (round, tappered point and/or flat edge) for drybrushing. You don't want this to be a good brush since regardless of the quality of the hairs, this technique will quickly destroy the point of your brush. You will use these simply for drybrushing, which you'll be doing a lot of for these minis to paint them quickly and effectively.

Recap on brushes:

3 Sable round brushes Size #0, #1 and #2 (basecoating/detailing)
1 or 2 Large synthetic/cheaper brushes ~Size #10 (drybrushing)
1 Synthetic round or flat Size #2 brush (drybrushing)

4) Paints:

Use acrylic paints. Being water-based, they're easy to clean and you can get some amazing results with them especially on minis.

GW paints are okay in a pinch, but I prefer these by far for the same price ($3.00 a bottle):

Vallejo Model Color, Vallejo Game Color and Reaper Master Series Paint.

I use VMC mostly, but for this I'd suggest VGC as the paints have a lot more tooth to them. Bacially VMC can rub off easily at times even with a sealer coat; VGC is better for gaming.

Games-Workshop's inks are also great for quick and effective techniques.

5) Varnish:

Varnishing or sealing your minis will help protect your paintjob.

GW varnish is garbage IMHO as I've seen some of my friends' minis get this yellow hue over time.

Matte Varnish will give your mini a flat finish, which most people prefer, but it doesn't offer nearly the same protection as Gloss Varnish. What you can do is use a Gloss Varnish first, let it dry completely, then use a Matte Varnish over it to get the best of both worlds. Even if you use just Matte Varnish, it's better than nothing.

I highly recommend Testor's Gloss Varnish for superior protection and Testor's Dullcoat (Matte Varnish) for added protection and a more pleasing finish overall.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

In any event, sorry for the rambling, but hopefully it was a little bit helpful. I'd be more than happy to show you my minis for this game and the steps I took to paint them once I get the game in a week or so. Let me know if you're interested. ^^x

Remy
 
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Andrew DiGregorio
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some excellent ideas here guys... thanks so much everyone!

I have completed my first mini, a beastman, before i read most of these responses. I have just about completed a Hellhound as well. At some point (if i can find a camera with good enough resolution to take a zoom shot), ill post them here for you guys to peruse and comment.
 
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Andrew DiGregorio
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as promised, here is my first attempt (a beastman)...


http://www.boardgamegeek.com/viewboardgameimage.php3?id=1173...

i did a hellhound last night that i think looks even better... ill try to post it later..

still looking for black primer... apparently it's a rarity here on LI.
 
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Andrew DiGregorio
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here's my first hellhound...

http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/117883


i did a spider last night with the grey primer i bought that i think came out ok. I'll probbaly post that one next..
 
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Andrew DiGregorio
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Was FINALLY able to find a store with Citadel Black primer from GW.

havent been able to try it yet, but before i got it, i tried a sorceror with black enamel. Ill try to post both the spider pic (grey primer) and sorcerer (black enamel) today.
 
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Andrew DiGregorio
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The Bane Spider....

http://www.boardgamegeek.com/viewboardgameimage.php3?id=1179...
 
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Andrew DiGregorio
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The sorcerer was done with black testers enamel, before i finally got myself the GW black primer.

http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/118152

I'm going to attempt a razorwing with the GW tonight...
 
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Andrew DiGregorio
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Well, since i had already bought most of the supplies before seeing some of the great responses here, i have been plowing along with what i have, and trying to apply what was said here as best i can...

4 of my latest (using the GW black primer)....

http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/118876

http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/119232

http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/119233

http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/119356
 
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David Fox
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I am just getting ready to paint my Decent minis. Man there is alot in there but hey I painted all the Middle Earth minis! I just finished the Doom Expansion figures and all I can say is what a difference painted minis can do for a board game. Good luck with this process Andrew cause I will be partaking in this endevour as well.
 
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David Fox
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Well I started painting the Descent Heroes first since they are smaller and will take more time to paint. How are others Descent paint projects going?
 
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Damien Browne
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Slyde, you got me hooked.
I will also attempt to paint my minis. But I have to say, I am not (at this time) any good at it.

However, this weekend, I went to a class and learned about inking and drybrushing.

It was explained to me the concept of layering, but that's more than I'm cut out for yet.

I wrecked a couple of minis getting inking right (and my sorceress now almost looks good - at least, her hair looks pretty good) but I have to fix her robes back up a bit.

After I move house, I will begin this massive project.
I might even make a thread like this!
 
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David Fox
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The heroes are almost a double edge sword in that they are small enough to get done fairly quickly but was throws that out the win is the small detail. I have not bother with painting in the eyes as they are just to small without getting the "googled eye" look. A nice wash.ink takes care of that.
 
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