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Subject: Best kind of paint to use for meeples? rss

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David Butt
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What is the best kind of paint to use for meeples? I want to just do one solid color. I've been thinking about just doing some white and silver, since I have those colors in spray paint. I'm not sure what the piece will feel like afterwards. I'm worried that it will feel a little sticky afterwards. Please tell me your experience with this and what the results were. Thank you.
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Matt Trudgen
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Clermont
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There is a paint in Jo Ann's with Apple in the title. I think it's Apple Basket. I find it works very well.

Do a face at a time and let it dry, by the time you finish all of the front faces, the first one you painted will be dry already. Lather, rinse, repeat.

Don't be afraid to use multiple coats. I found the foam style brush works the best, although I think a makeup sponge (white triangle) would be perfect as well.

They feel a little rough and dry when they have finished drying, kind of how a really old book feels dry. You can get a clear sheen paint to make them a little smoother, but I didn't find one I have liked.

Hope this helps!
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Brett
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Apple Valley
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I have had good results with Rust-oleum. You should sand the pieces before you paint them. They don't feel sticky. If you give them time to dry they should feel smooth.
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Todd
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Warren
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I am glad this came up, I have wanted to paint some for a while now, the first try sucked so the advice will help a lot.
 
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Scott V
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Milwaukee
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As mentioned, sanding is one way to prepare the surface. A metal file works well. Chemical deglosser is not expensive, and it does work to make the existing paint surface accepting of a new coat. Putting many pieces in a plastic bag and shaking the deglosser works great for a batch of pieces.

Starting with a piece that is similar in color tone will make it easier to get the final color.

Trials with spray paints had results that didn't coat evenly when there were armpits & crotches involved... and it was worse with the meeples! ba-da-bing! shake
Also, they took a very long time, days, to truly dry.

I have found that the 2 ounce craft paints brush on well and are self leveling if they are thinned with 1 part water to 2 parts paint. The end grain soaks up moisture quickly, so you can put a second coat on seconds later to get final coverage. This also means that you need to let the water evaporate out of the wood naturally for a few days before exposure to heat.

Clear coating worked best for me when I used a 50/50 dilution with water and Americana's DuraClear Satin Varnish. This makes for a subtler visual effect, and creates a surface feel that is more like the factory pieces.

After the paint has dried a couple days, you could buff it out a bit with paper towel to even out the finish & texture, and remove any residue. < /novel >

Good luck,
Scott
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Todd
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Warren
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Sounds like a good process.


Scott V wrote:
As mentioned, sanding is one way to prepare the surface. A metal file works well. Chemical deglosser is not expensive, and it does work to make the existing paint surface accepting of a new coat. Putting many pieces in a plastic bag and shaking the deglosser works great for a batch of pieces.

Starting with a piece that is similar in color tone will make it easier to get the final color.

Trials with spray paints had results that didn't coat evenly when there were armpits & crotches involved... and it was worse with the meeples! ba-da-bing! shake
Also, they took a very long time, days, to truly dry.

I have found that the 2 ounce craft paints brush on well and are self leveling if they are thinned with 1 part water to 2 parts paint. The end grain soaks up moisture quickly, so you can put a second coat on seconds later to get final coverage. This also means that you need to let the water evaporate out of the wood naturally for a few days before exposure to heat.

Clear coating worked best for me when I used a 50/50 dilution with water and Amaericana's DuraClear Satin Varnish. This makes for a subtler visual effect, and creates a surface feel that is more like the factory pieces.

After the paint has dried a couple days, you could buff it out a bit with paper towel to even out the finish & texture, and remove any residue. < /novel >

Good luck,
Scott
 
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David Butt
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So I tried a couple things.

The first thing I tried was just straight painting the meeples with out any preparation. I used a metalic silver spray paint on the grey pieces. believe it or not that turned out the best. I used a can that I had left over from another project. This is the exact can of paint I used on it. http://www.atlantistools.com/main/shop/image/cache/data/kryl... Here is a picture.



The second thing I tried was nail polish. I borrowed a purple color from my sister. I didn't like the way it looked. It looked all lumpy. So I scrapped the paint off with a knife.

With the same pieces I sprayed primer on them to prepare them for another color. The primer I used left a bunch of sand like pieces all over the meeple. They fell off when you touched them. So I sanded and brushed off all the little pieces. Right now those pieces are just sitting on my desk until I go to the store to get a new color of spray paint.

I have experience with spray paint as well as regular acrylic paint, that you would need a brush for. I highly recommend the spray paint. It is so much easier. 2 coats is usually plenty and they look nice and smooth when finished. I like the krylon brand, I have used it several times on other projects and it always finishes nice.
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David Butt
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I just realized that the colors won't match if you have or get the phantom expansion.
 
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