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Subject: Built another Crokinole board rss

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Adam Webb
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Arkansas
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This is the second crokinole board I've built. I built it for a buddy, just for the practice. I'm pleased about a few things and bummed about some others. For the bummed parts: the drill bit I used for the pegs splintered the plywood for two of the holes, so I had to do considerable repair. Also, my miter saw is not as accurate as I would like and some of the ditch pieces took a considerable amount of time to shape. Thankfully, I found an excellent miter box at Salvation Army for $3 halfway through the build and the rest was easy peasy. The biggest shame on the board is that I punched through the bottom of the playing surface when drilling one of the peg holes. For the good parts: the routed lines look great (it was my first time trying to rout the lines). Much better than the marked lines on my first board. The piece of wood I got for the surface turned out great. And best of all, the guy who got it was happy with it! Here's a pic:



Things I learned: my plunge router does a much better job making the holes for the pegs. I don't have to rout the playing surface out of the plywood sheet, as it can be cut with a jig saw just as cleanly given a little time and patience. A good sander is a must.

I left the ditch and rail unstained so he and his son could make it look the way they wanted. Other than that, I think she'll do the job.
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Jerry Wilkinson
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New Castle
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When asking "What would Jesus do?", remember that flipping over tables and using a whip are within the realm of possibilities.
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Looks great, Adam!
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David Smidt
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Hey Adam- If you need any more "practice", I'll volunteer to take the next one off your hands
Nice work!thumbsup
 
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A. Boggs
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Some recommendations for your bummer problems you had:

The holes cut a lot cleaner with a forstner bit, I had to learn this the hard way. My process uses a forstner bit to start the holes and then a regular bit with a stop collar put on it keep all the holes at the same depth.

If you have access to a table saw, a miter with a stop built into it works wonders on cutting octagons. If your miter box works ok, by all means keep using it.

On cutting the playing surface out of the plywood, I tend to trace out my circles (you can get five out of a sheet), rough cut them with a jig saw and then use the router and jig to make the circle. It sounded like you may be causing more work than is needed.
 
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C Bazler
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Nice job! I wish I could make stuff like this.
 
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Adam Webb
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Thanks for the tips, Boggs. I'll have to pick up a 3/8" forstner. I use one to drill the center hole, but it never occurred to me that I could use one for the pegs too! That'll certainly be cleaner and easier, as getting a forstner bit level is pretty easy. I was definitely doing more work than necessary by routing the circles instead of jig sawing them. Not only that, but if I wasn't quick with it, I'd leave burns on the edge of the circle.
 
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A. Boggs
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admanwebb wrote:
Thanks for the tips, Boggs. I'll have to pick up a 3/8" forstner. I use one to drill the center hole, but it never occurred to me that I could use one for the pegs too! That'll certainly be cleaner and easier, as getting a forstner bit level is pretty easy. I was definitely doing more work than necessary by routing the circles instead of jig sawing them. Not only that, but if I wasn't quick with it, I'd leave burns on the edge of the circle.


Were you using a circle cutting jig or doing it free hand?

Burns mostly show up from dull bits, or the appearance of being dull. You can get pitch cleaner that you just spray on your bits and wipe off that will take off any pitch build up. That always helps me when the router or table saw is leaving burn marks. If that doesn't help, then it may be time for a new bit.
 
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