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Subject: making the game rss

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david bodtcher
United States
San Diego
California
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I just downloaded the game and would like to give it a try. However, I'm curious as to the best way to print the game out as cards:

I noticed they recommend printing on cardstock. Is there a cardstock that is perforated to the dimensions of the cards so you don't have to cut it?
 
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Chris
United States
Huntington Station
New York
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I'm considering printing this game, still on the fence. I've printed tons of game components over the years: cards, boards, chits...

Avery makes perforated stock, maybe even similar size to these cards. I couldn't imagine trying to get my printer to print exactly inside the perforations. I've managed at times (such as business cards), but always end up wasting paper and ink in the process. Shortcuts always cause headaches. My printer produces great output, but lining up the paper perfectly is not one of its features. A metal straight edge and box cutter, or a rotary cutter, is the way to go.

People report great success with decal labels. I have never gone this route as I don't like the results, but I can see this would work well. You'll still have the problem of lining up to print within label borders.

I've managed to print some cards double sided - getting them to line up is a pain, I waste paper and ink trying. Instead I now print on 2 sheets, laminate both, cut them on the outer edges, then glue together lined up on the outer edges. Wait a day to dry, then cut them out. Or forego the double-side printing and use card condoms or contact paper.

Finally, though I'm a perfectinist, I've come to realize that 90% success is okay. It's never been a problem for us that the cards don't line up 100%. This is particularly true the more cards there are. Once a set of cards are stacked up we can never tell that some are slightly different.

I'm still looking for a reason to print this game...
 
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Mark Crocker
United States
Westland
Michigan
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This is what I do, with fairly good success...and what I'm planning to do with this game (I just downloaded it).

First stop is your local office supply mega store (Depot, Max, Staples). Buy a package of full sized label sheets (8&1/2 x 11). There are different brands, (HP, generic store brand, etc.) but I like Avery because there is no confusion as to which is the print side of the sheet and the back is scored several times for ease in peeling off the backing. A pack of 25 sheets will nail you for about $12.00, or 100 sheets for perhaps $36.00. (It ain't cheap, if you really want a usuable final product).

Second stop is your local "Everything's a Dollar" store. You can buy a package of 2 decks (one red, one blue) of standard poker cards at a buck a pop. Buy several packs for future P&P projects...and keep your eyes peeled for decks of "mini" sized cards (2 for a buck) which will come in handy if the print and play bug hits you hard (as it has me). Also search through your closets and drawers for other colored decks of cards.

Print the card faces on the full sized label sheets. Without looking at the files I've downloaded, I can tell you that there are probably 9 card faces to each sheet...card size. Cut them out using a utility knife (I don't care for X-actos for "bulk" work like this)
and metal straightedge (and for God's sake, be careful). Peel the faces, and apply them to the face of the standard playing cards, and 'voila'...you've got your cards. If you feel that you want to , then do the same with card backs, but using different color/patterned decks may save you the trouble...and just as importantly...the ink.

And that's my last point. P&P games are "ink eaters"! I have a fairly cheap Lexmark ink jet (in fact a color and b/w cartridge pack costs more than the printer did originally). So I try my first page on a setting called "Quick Print", which seems to use half the ink required for "normal" print setting. Yes, the images are paler than normal. If I don't like the results, I can always increase the setting.

You can do all of the work on paper and thin cardstock much cheaper, but frankly, who is going to want to play the game with you? Go the extra yard, the game will look much more professional, and people will play. And you'll have a product you can be proud of.

Addenda:
Print all game components (except player-aids) for ANY game on the full sized label sheets.
Mount maps and/or map sections on any old board game you've got stashed away, that you know you'll never play again...checkers, Trivial Pursuit, Candyland, whatever. Just peel and stick...carefully.

Game tiles. Print and stick them on the drink coasters you get when you go to TGIFridays, Chilli's, your local saloon, et. al. I've yet to find a better medium. (y'know they throw 'em away, when the table is cleared...it's not stealing).

Unit counters: Coasters work pretty good for these too....but if I see a Scrabble game in a thrift store ($1.00 or less), I scarf it up just to use the tiles to mount unit counters on... and get the board as a bonus. It helps to have some primary color spray paints around for the scrabble tiles. (Try "Big Lots" for paint, at a buck a can).

Player Aids/ Charts: Just use regular card stock. I found a 4 color pack of 25 or so at the dollar store.

Don't bother printing paper money. Use poker chips instead.
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Geo
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Marousi
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Print the front side of the cards (only) using plain paper. Stick the paper to *thin* cardstock using stick glue. Put some heavy books on top the sheets and leave overnight.

Cut the cards with a steel ruler and a sharpie. Round the corners if you have a corner rounding tool.

Place cards in different colored sleeves and you are done.

No need to worry about matching fronts and backs...
 
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Chris
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Cheektowaga
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http://www.plaincards.com

Not the cheapest solution but the best hands down quality cards. Hit them with some clear coats and you have top quality cards
 
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The root of all evil... but you can call me cookie.
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I purchased a Scotch brand laminator about 4 years ago for under $30. I think it's up to a bit above $30 now. I buy 50 laminating pouches that are 8.5"x11" for this puppy at K-Mart for $10.99. I print my cards on card stock and then run 'em through the laminator. Final product is sturdy! Want to add a bit of something to back, well for that I typically just create some sort of "textured" image to print out quickly on the back side just to give it some color. If you have a good enough printer to print card backs (mine are almost always just slightly off centered when I try to line up card backs) you can pull that off too. The printer I use is the Kodak ESP-1. . . (yes my printer does know what I want to print even before I do.) It is a bit more than the Lexmark's but the ink is pretty darn cheap for it which is a big selling point for me.
 
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Douglas Glisson
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Alberta
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I think I will do like Crokerdile suggested as the card back art is not very good on these. The fronts are beautiful but the backs just stink. I had gook luck with that method while making some 360 or so cards for Wiz-War. They turned out very nice!

Kraken Fan #69
 
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Darin Young
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Oklahoma City
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I downloaded this a few weeks ago and am now putting the cards together. I printed the card faces and card backs on label paper. Unfortunately, I found that the cards need to be printed scaled "Fit to Page" because every other sheet is missing the card edge [it fell outside the printer margins and was lost]. Oh well.

Anyway, using a rotary cutter I cut along the outer edge of the cards, so all I'm left with is just the 3x3 set of cards. I then removed the backs from the card-printed label paper and affixed it to cardstock. Again, remove the excess cardstock from around the card faces. Then remove the backs from the card-back printed labels and place the card faces [backed by cardstock] on the former. Remove the excess and cut the cards apart. To keep the ink from rubbing off the cards I placed them in card sleeves. Works pretty well, and the cards are quite thick.
 
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