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Subject: Protecting your boardgames.. rss

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ruvion .
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Whenever I purchase a boardgame I see the wear and tear of my older games and I worry that the same fate awaits the brand new purchase.

I can protect the card components with card sleaves, but carboard tiles are harder to protect and same goes for the board for the boardgame itself.

Any recommendations? Thanks!
 
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Jesse Smit
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For the board just get a sheet of plexiglass to lay over it, found at reasonable prices at a hardware store. I use it for all my games now.
 
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Jesse Smit
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^ i mean perspex.
 
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Wolfgang Kunz
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And I thought I was odd putting all my cards into protective sleeves...

I use plexi for my wargames (with paper maps) which gives a nice flat surface and protects the map.

A friend of mine laminated the "Shadows over Camelot" character cards - but be aware that sometimes laminating goes wrong (wrinkels anyone?.zombie

For counters I did not find any solution of protection.

If you really have a game that you are playing so often that it falls apart do what some gamers do: Buy an additional (or more) copies.

Even if it sounds odd: What worked for me is:
- if we eat, we eat - no boardgaming while eating
- no getting drunk while gaming unless the game asks for it
- avoid animals and little kids unless you want to wait for your x counters to reappear after three days (and believe me, it's a mess - you won't see this). yuk gulp

With smaller cards (like the one in Descent or WoW) I have no idea but I am sure that the qualitiy of the cards will outlive my intention of playing the game.

One suggestion I get but never tried is putting finisher (is this the right english word?) over the cards to protect the surface. I am not sure if the color of the cards are able to stand it. Therefore I thought its a stupid idea but someone might disagree here.

Protecting Plastic pieces from breaking while in use is most time not a question unless they are really thin. No idea how to protect them unless you want to store them away and use (for example) wooden cubes.

IMHO protection is only interesting, if the game is very valuable and the cost of the protection is not higher than the game itself. Otherwise consider the "buy two" - option.

My five cents


 
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Michael M.
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For paper/cardboard items, I scan everything when I get it and will create my own replacements when the time comes. Wooden pieces can be repainted. Everything else hopefully will stand the test of time. I hope to be able to recreate many pieces out of wood, but minitures just have to be replaced.
 
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phil v
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Quote:
Protecting Plastic pieces from breaking while in use is most time not a question unless they are really thin. No idea how to protect them unless you want to store them away and use (for example) wooden cubes.


Seal them in resin! Little lucite cubes containing miniatures could be the new must-have. ;-p
 
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Nick Avtges
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Let go!

A well worn game can be a thing of beauty. Take my copy of Up Front, for example...no wait...you can't take it! I just meant look at it, yes...look at it. The cards are well worn from years of repeated play. They shuffle so nicely, see....riffffffff, mmmmmm. Everything feels nice and I just don't worry despite the fact that the game is OOP, perhaps never to see the light of day again and much too highly priced for me to ever actually buy another copy. Sure, have that slice of pizza.

Of course it does help ease my mind know that there is a spare copy sealed up in the back of the game closet as well as a third spare deck of cards...whew!!!

 
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ruvion .
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Thanks for the head up!

I have never heard of plexiglass...is this some plastic thingy I can just roll up? How portable is it?

And one other question...cardboard cutouts can not be protected can it? Other than the scan and paste on wooden pieces alternative.
 
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Gregory Smith
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My strategy for protecting board games is as follows: All games are stored in a temperature and humidity controlled atmosphere in a lead lined vault. We play the games only in this vault. Everyone must wear a clean suit head to toe. No food, drink, or breathing is allowed in this room. Special light bulbs are used to prevent any pigment fading on the game components. Cards are never shuffled as this may damage them. Rather they are randomized by stacking them one by one in a random order (it takes a little longer but it is worth it). Game boards are hermetically sealed in glass cases filled with argon gas. Cards are naturally in sleeves. This has worked for me so far. What makes this strategy most effective is that no one really wants to come over and play under these circumstances so the games remain safely stored and untouched.
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Chris Storzillo
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I take all of my game charts to Kinko's and laminate them. Cost's about 2 bucks each but they last forever. Charts are always fingered alot and this stops them from getting dirty or wet if put happen to put the chart down where your beer/ soda was just sitting. Also stops creasing and tearing.
 
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ruvion .
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The vacuum strategy notwithstanding, I just went to Kinko's and laminated all my charts. After putting cards in sleaves and lamination all this protective measures cost me nearly a whole new game! Lol.

But I think it was worth it.

One question still remains...plexiglass?
 
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M C
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Plexiglass is basically transparent plastic. It's hard like glass, so no you can't roll it up. Some use it to place over their boards to protect them and make a perfectly flat surface.

You can buy it at most home hardware stores.

Here's a more technical explanation:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plexiglass
 
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Don Schoemaker
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I went to OFFICE MAX and purchased a plastic desk protector it cost about $15-$20. It rolls up when not in use and is GREAT for protecting boards against wear and tear. It is also very useful for sectional maps that might get bumped if they weren't held down (Axis and Allies Miniatures are a breeze with it).

Now on our dining room table (which is Mahogany) we have a beautiful piece of plexiglass that was specifically cut for the oval shape of the table. This works to keep food/drinks off of the wood and we should never have to refinish it again (which was a PIA). When we have a BIG game out I just slide the board under the plexiglass and people can have drinks without fear of ruining the board. Works REALLY good with large wargames.

Downside - the plexiglass cost about $400 since it was specifically cut for this table and has rounded edges.

I'm pretty anal about charts and graphs also, I have almost all of them laminated within days of opening the game.
 
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ruvion .
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because of the portability issue i guess plexiglas is no go.

I love laminating but for the crinks, bubbles, and creases. Meh. soblue

Thanks guys for your suggestions.
 
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