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Subject: Printing a board rss

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Bryan Thunkd
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I've just printed a board on full page "sticker" paper, which is probably better called a full page label. As I was cutting and trimming the pages I noticed that the ink from the page has rubbed off on my hand slightly. The last thing I want is to have people get ink-smudged hands, or to smudge the board.

I've seen mention somewhere of a vinyl page you can print on. Does anybody know where ai could find this?

And for people who do print on label paper, how do you handle the fact that up the ink can rub off?
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Will Bracegirdle of Hardbottle
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I've used these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000093L1J/ref=oh_details_o... Avery label sheets for Inkjet printers and haven't had smudge problems.
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Andrew Tullsen
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Did you print onto an inkjet label paper? If the label paper is for lasers, it might not work as well.
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Bryan Thunkd
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Howitzer_120mm wrote:
Did you print onto an inkjet label paper? If the label paper is for lasers, it might not work as well.

The paper is designed for an inkjet printer.
 
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Jamal Green
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The two lessons I've learned from doing a lot of these recently:

-- let it dry an hour+ before handling

-- get coated paper (like that at onlinelabels.com or sheet-labels.com)

Both of these assume a Laser printer is not an option. If it is, it won't smudge, but it might chip depending on the paper.

- Jamal
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Steven Robinson
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I use LD Products Full Page Glossy Photo Sticker Paper, (Instant Dry, water Resistant, High Resolution) from Amazon.com From box covers (boxed some magazine games) to game counters, works great.
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Brian
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It could also be a function of the ink from your printer.

Regardless, I'd wait a day between printing and mounting paper (using spray adhesive) to chipboard.
 
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I've also been printing boards lately, using Japanese sticker labels which I can't read the instructions to. I found out the first few labels I tried, I was printing on the wrong side, apparently it was the peel off sheet. It just looked like a glossy film, and so ALL the ink rubbed off hehe. So double check it's the right side up, just peel a bit of the corner and double check. Once I sorted that out, and printed on the correct side, the ink stuck straight away, and I didn't have to wait for it to dry.

If the labels are for inkjet, the ink shouldn't rub off that easily. Of course if people scratch it a bit it might come off. But you should then buy a more sturdy label. Some of them are waterproof etc.

The one I used for this board, is awesome.
Print and Play - BSG Express - of cards and making a game board

It's a label sticker for outdoor gear like skateboards etc. So you print on the label, stick it on, then stick on a plastic coating sheet for added protection (comes with the packet). But this style is a little more expensive and has a shine to it which might make it hard to see.


I now prefer using A4 Matt sticker labels, and I've been using waterproof ones.
 
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Clay Hales
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I seem to remember seeing someone say on one of these forums that you can spray the printed stuff with a clear sealant to give it a little extra protection. I would imagine let the ink dry a day before doing it, and be sure to get a sealant that will match the paper (ie matte spray on matte paper, glossy spray on glossy paper, etc.).
 
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Dave
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I use self adhesive laminating pouches. Just pull the non-sticky lamination side off and seal your printed label with the sticky lamination side. Then cut your print to size.
 
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Bryan Thunkd
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lankyb wrote:
Regardless, I'd wait a day between printing and mounting paper (using spray adhesive) to chipboard.
I'm using sticker paper which is adhesive on one side, so I'm not sure why I would need to use spray adhesive. Am I missing something?

merc007 wrote:
I found out the first few labels I tried, I was printing on the wrong side
I'm printing on the correct side of the paper.

Agent Minivann wrote:
I seem to remember seeing someone say on one of these forums that you can spray the printed stuff with a clear sealant to give it a little extra protection.
I'd be curious which product people used for this... do you remember where you saw this?

super_d wrote:
I use self adhesive laminating pouches. Just pull the non-sticky lamination side off and seal your printed label with the sticky lamination side. Then cut your print to size.
So I know nothing about laminating. How would this work? Would I have to put it inside a pouch? So I'd have to adhere it to the backing somehow afterwards? If so, there's no reason not to print on regular paper right?


I cut and trimmed my pages within ten minutes of printing them. It's likely that I did not give them sufficient time to dry. I'd still love to find a way to give the board a protective finish if possible.
 
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Brian
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My wording was strange. When I do it, I just use inkjet paper and spray adhesive. Not self-adhesive sheets.

The key part was that I wait a day or so prior to mounting. The lessor part was to also mention that I don't use self-adhesive sheets (labels).
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Dave
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Thunkd wrote:
super_d wrote:
I use self adhesive laminating pouches. Just pull the non-sticky lamination side off and seal your printed label with the sticky lamination side. Then cut your print to size.
So I know nothing about laminating. How would this work? Would I have to put it inside a pouch? So I'd have to adhere it to the backing somehow afterwards? If so, there's no reason not to print on regular paper right?


You still use your label paper. The no heat self-sealing laminating "pouches" are really just two pieces of clear layers that you lay your artwork between. One layer acts as a backing (and can be pulled off and discarded for our purposes), the other clear layer has adhesive on one side of it. Use the clear layer with adhesive and stick your label print to it to protect your artwork. Then you just trim your label like you normally would. Hopefully you can picture it in your head. It would be like a big clear sticker that you can smooth over your label before cutting your artwork out.

I usually just lay the laminating layer on the table, sticky side up. Peel off it's sticker backing, exposing the sticky side up and carefully lay my label on it face down. Smooth carefully to avoid air bubbles. The laminating layer is usually thick enough that it's an easy application, but you still have to watch for air bubbles. Gives a glossy finish. And your label sticks down as it normally would.
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Clay Hales
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Thunkd wrote:
Agent Minivann wrote:
I seem to remember seeing someone say on one of these forums that you can spray the printed stuff with a clear sealant to give it a little extra protection.
I'd be curious which product people used for this... do you remember where you saw this?

No clue. It was some forum talking about some sort of homebrew activity. Don't even remember if it was here or elsewhere.
 
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Cat Wizard
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Agent Minivann wrote:
Thunkd wrote:
Agent Minivann wrote:
I seem to remember seeing someone say on one of these forums that you can spray the printed stuff with a clear sealant to give it a little extra protection.
I'd be curious which product people used for this... do you remember where you saw this?

No clue. It was some forum talking about some sort of homebrew activity. Don't even remember if it was here or elsewhere.


It was mod podge spray sealant. I saw it on another thread
 
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Jake Staines
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0Shea0 wrote:

It was mod podge spray sealant. I saw it on another thread


You can use any clear sealer. I use either a gloss acrylic lacquer intended for car body work (from Halfords in the UK; one of the things they do best is spray primer/lacquer) or a matt varnish (from Vallejo) intended for miniature/model-kit painting, depending on the requirement.


Mod Podge, in my brief experience, is over-rated and over-priced. I've yet to work out in what way it's better than neat PVA glue at what it supposedly does. I realise this is a different product to their flagship stuff, but I would expect the "over-priced" part to carry over from the brand-name alone.
 
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Celina
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I used Deft brand Clear Wood finish, in a spray can. I've used the liquid also, it soaks into the cardstock & makes cards that are stiff, but it does pool on the 2nd or 3rd coat & sometimes brushstrokes/drips show up.
 
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Chris Robbins
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This company has expanded their offerings since I last looked:

http://www.papilio.com/inkjet%20waterproof%20adhesive%20film...

A UV resistant spray-on coating would still be a good idea for a longer lasting project.

If you have a waste inkjet printout (as old and dry as you can find) it is informative to drip a bit of water on it and experiment with rubbing a spot and just letting the water dry in another.
 
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