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Subject: 3D Descent Dungeon rss

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Yuliyan Kalaydzhiev
Germany
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Hi there!

I am trying to make a Descent dungeon similar to:



(and I would be happy if it remotely resembles it )

For that purpose I use this guide from
Big Lebowski
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yeah? well… y’know, that’s just like, uh… your opinion, man…
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So far so cool! I couldn't find the "blue" polystyrene so I got this yellow one. It's slightly different than the one on the photo - it's thicker (30mm) and has a flat almost glossy surface (I think they slightly heated up the surface to get that effect). And here is where I require your expertise, fellow geeks..!

Problem 1: This stuff is a lot harder than the one shown in the tutorial! I like that because it makes for more durable parts BUT the "rockanizer" gets perfectly flattened before it even scratches the surface. Any ideas what I can use to make a stone texture? I thought of spreading cat litter stones and pressing them in the plate..? Most stones are simply to large to make that small dents, bumps and tears...

Problem 2: Acrylic paint doesn't hold that good? More accurately, it doesn't cover nicely.. maybe it's cheap paint? Or there is some kind of chemical agent on the surface/it was melted to isolate better? I need around 4 coats to hide the yellow color when test painting with white. Would be even worse doing black... I use paint, the tutorial uses "Acryllack" or enamel. Does that make a difference?

Thanks a lot in advance!!
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George Kinney
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Don't know about the texture angle, but if acrylic isn't sticking very well then you need to use a primer like this.
 
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The neutral evil villain known as
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I'd go out and find a rock or piece of concrete to roll around on it. If that doesn't work, you really have sturdy stuff! I know the blue will disolve if you spray it with regular spray paint, maybe this will too. We used spray paint to give a rocky texture to some tombstones we made once. TEST IT FIRST!!!!!!

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josh willhite
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I make wargaming terrain and use the blue foam (have you tried going to Lowe's, Home Depot, etc?) as well as a hot wire foam cutter. I primer with generic acrylic black paint, overbrush dark grey, drybrush light grey or white and it looks great. When I want some texture, after primering the piece with black paint, I slather clear Elmer's glue on surfaces and sprinkle basing materials (sand, not grass) and let it dry for a day. After that overbrush and drybrush, then dabs of clear Elmer's again to put flocking (grass) here and there. For cheap basing and flocking materials I suggest looking online at hobby sites that cater to railroad hobbyists.

You can also get sand cheaply by looking outside for it in empty lots of driveways...

Ivy? glue a line on a wall, then sprinkle lots of fine green flocking on it.

Roots? buy a bag of lichen (RR supply) or look in the fake flower section of Wally mart for that Spanish moss stuff.

For planks and boards I use craft/popsicle sticks, break them crudely so they look all broken up.

I could go on and on giving out tips and tricks I've learned to make this stuff. Any more I like making terrain over painting models, because it makes a table stand out so good once the terrain is in place. I've been making wargaming terrain for years and sell quite a bit on Ebay, I'd be happy to help you out if you have further questions, just PM me!

Edit: You're in Germany. Sorry for any references to stores that are only on my end of the pond. PM me though and I might be able to direct you to some good hobby websites.
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Jake Staines
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BGOrion wrote:
Did you actually get that spec (I know you said it wasn't precisely that particular product) or could it be that instead of extruded polystyrene you actually bought some polyurethane foam? Polyurethane foam is also often used for insulation (often with a foil layer glued to one side) but is tougher than polystyrene. On one hand this means it doesn't crumble so easily; on the other, it also means that it's not possible to cut it with a hot wire cutter and as you've found, it's not so easy to texture.



I made some terrain a while back for wargaming with out of polyurethane foam offcuts (you can read about it here) and I got a decent desert texture out of a coat of paint, a layer of sprinkled sand and then another coat of paint to seal it and keep the sand in place. If you're willing to deal with the mess you can carve a rocky texture into the surface by scrubbing it with a wire brush, but take it slow to get the hang... and you'll definitely need to seal it well with paint afterwards.


If you are dealing with the same kind of polyurethane I've seen, then if you can break into the glossy surface the inside paints perfectly well... and if you use something like thick masonry paint (which also fills in accidental gaps a bit and acts as an excellent protective layer) then it'll stick fine without needing priming or anything.
 
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