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Subject: Slanting Ogre bits rss

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Paul Bauman
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So I assembled a couple of Ogres last night for my first few scenarios: the MK III and MK V. The guns and towers don't seem to stay vertical for me. From the side, the models look fine but from the top they look kind of... catawampus. Some lean inward, some outward. Some of them are admittedly loose and will need glue, but I wonder if I'm assembling them incorrectly or of this is normal?
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Kristoff Bergenholm
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You get a thumb for 'catawampus', but how vertical the pieces will be depends on the snugness of the fit. Take a small dab of glue to the worst offenders, and you'll be fine.
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Jason Carlough
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Magentawolf wrote:
You get a thumb for 'catawampus', but how vertical the pieces will be depends on the snugness of the fit. Take a small dab of glue to the worst offenders, and you'll be fine.


Mine have the same problem, it isn't necessarily a snugness issue. I definitely have ogres where a piece is very snug but at an angle. It's like the joint itself is angled for some reason.
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Ron Price
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I have a few Ogres like that. They're just slightly angled--not enough to make the top edges touch or anything.

I have nothing helpful to say about it, though. I colored the edges, glued them, and am living with it.
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David Reeves
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I am a veteran cardstock modeler. To be more specific about glue, I would recommend a low-water content glue. This prevents warping -- even for thicker cardboard pieces. Low-water content glue also dries much faster that traditional white glue.

EDIT: Added approximate glue setting and full drying times as well as usage notes.

Here are some glue suggestions.

Most recommended, harder to find:

UHU (dries to clear, fast drying)
* set time: 1 minute
* (full) dry time: 10 minutes

http://www.amazon.com/Saunders-Twist-Glue-Clear-21150/dp/B00...


Recommended and also available in most craft stores:

Aileen's Tacky Glue
- Quick Dry (dries to translucent white color)
- thick glue that helps hold parts together
- good for bonding light to medium weight parts (I use this for gluing miniatures to washer bases for magnetic storage boxes)
* set time: 15 minutes
* (full) dry time: 12 hours

http://www.amazon.com/Aleenes-Quick-Dry-Tacky-Glue/dp/B00114...

- Clear (dries to clear)
- best for paper products but not light to medium weight parts since the bond is not as strong (i.e. bad for miniatures)
* set time: 5 minutes
* (full) dry time: 6 hours

http://www.amazon.com/Aleene-Clear-Gel-Tacky-Glue/dp/B000BY6...

Note that glue setting and drying times vary by the amount of glue used.

Happy gluing!

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Mike Malley
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Which ones are the most tired? I have more Ogres awaiting assembly than not, but you've gotten me curious.

And I must thumb catawampus as well.
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Scott Everts
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I glued all my 3D pieces after finding a few not snug enough. Most were fine but I found them far more sturdy with a little Elmer's Wood glue. Worked wonders. I do have a few that lean a bit since I wasn't as careful lining the early ones up.
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Paul Bauman
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Ok, thanks everyone! I'll see what I can do with one of the faster drying glues that David mentioned, mostly so I don't have to hold the pieces in place for too long before they set. I've used wood glue on chits before without problems, though, so that would work just as well.
 
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Willow Pearson
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I was worried glue could end up looking like some bizarre cybertank Bukakke, so I just crushed the open slots a little, no change in looks, makes everything snug, and I can still deconstruct them if the urge took me.
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Philip Reed
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deathninja wrote:
. . . and I can still deconstruct them if the urge took me.


Please never do this.
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Rusty McFisticuffs
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PhilReed wrote:
deathninja wrote:
. . . and I can still deconstruct them if the urge took me.

Please never do this.

Wait a minute--you were uncomfortable with that, but not this?

deathninja wrote:
bizarre cybertank Bukakke
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Brian Dunkle
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I used generic (loctite) superglue on the ones that were loose, just a drop here and there, dried fast and worked great.

But mostly I'm here to say the BGG sheet I assembled gave me the absolutely most slanted thing of all of them. Every vertical piece of the ogres slant, all in the same direction. It's kind of weird. I'm guessing the first piece mushed things a certain way so that the others slant the same way, but I don't really know. Doesn't really bother me, but it's strange.

Of all the other ogres etc. a piece or two would slant, but usually easily corrected, and never more than two parts of any one unit.
 
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Atticus Gifford
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I have some that slant pretty heavily as well. It looks like the counter sheet is two-ply but the top half is cut slightly offset from the bottom half. The profile of the cuts thus looks like a 2-step staircase. Those ones are going to need some surgery to look normal unfortunately. There aren't a ton of them though, so I'll probably never bother.
 
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Mike Malley
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Awww geez. I have more Ogres not put together than I have put together. I don't need to be running across posts like this.
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Paul Bauman
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Nothing to be alarmed about really. A toothpick and some glue should solve my (first world) problem.
 
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Frohike wrote:
...I wonder if I'm assembling them incorrectly or of this is normal?


You're doing fine.

You can sometimes exchange parts from the same Mark and end up with snugger fits for several models; just be sure that all the parts have the right name!

The other option is to use some polystyrene, or foam, and cut slots in that match up with your "ideal" 3D cybertank. Dab glue on underside, wait a moment, then put into slots and let them provide support while things bond into position. Once solid, remove it from the slot and you should have a good result.

If you want to go over the top, cut notches into the bottom of the underside "supports" and then run some matching sheet offcuts between the notches; either diagonally or perpendicular to the "supports". This permanently forces the supports to be nice and straight. Lot of mindless work, but should only need to be done once.

Towers and buildings don't seem to have quite the same issue, the odd loose connection but nothing that cannot be easily and solidly glued.

I hope some of that makes sense without any sort of image to easily explain it.

Oh, and if using glue, test it on offcuts from your punched sheets. Glue on the underside of a cybertank is easy to hide, but there'll be some places where it will be visible, and you don't want to belatedly discover that your glue causes stains on that nice art!
 
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