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Tash-Kalar: Arena of Legends» Forums » Rules

Subject: some rule questions... rss

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Waste MaLife
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After are first play though we had a few questions.

1) What exactly happens when you run out of objects to place?

2) There is no way to move a chit unless you have a card effect?

3) A Combat Move can be a move into your own space (as long as target chits is equal or lower rank), or even a move into a space with no chits (as in the same as a non-combat move)

4) Do you have to place chits in any relation to your old ones.. or just place them anywhere on the map?

Thanks in advance
 
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Aleksander Zav
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WasteMaLife wrote:
After are first play though we had a few questions.

1) What exactly happens when you run out of objects to place?

For summoning you may use another already placed pieces that not required for pattern.
But other card's effects that require pieces are unavailable, you can't use them.
WasteMaLife wrote:

2) There is no way to move a chit unless you have a
card effect?

Yes
WasteMaLife wrote:

3) A Combat Move can be a move into your own space (as long as target chits is equal or lower rank), or even a move into a space with no chits (as in the same as a non-combat move)

Yes, you can move to a empty space with combat move
WasteMaLife wrote:

4) Do you have to place chits in any relation to your old ones.. or just place them anywhere on the map?

Anywhere on the map
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Waste MaLife
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yeah... but how can you do a summon if you can not move a chit to make the pattern? Or dose "summon" not mean placing the summoned / final part ... it also includes placing the pattern itself?
 
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Paul Grogan
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You summon a being by having pieces on the board in the right pattern.

As an action on your turn, you can place a common piece on any space on the board. You may also move some of your pieces through the effects of certain cards.

So, I'm not sure I understand your question of "how do I summon if I cannot move a piece".
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Guido Gloor
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WasteMaLife wrote:
yeah... but how can you do a summon if you can not move a chit to make the pattern? Or dose "summon" not mean placing the summoned / final part ... it also includes placing the pattern itself?

The prerequisite for summoning is that all the pieces shown on the card are already present. As an example, for the werewolf to the right you need the three pieces to the left, in this configuration, though they may be mirrored or rotated any way you like.

What you do when you summon is, you place a piece (in the case of the werewolf, a heroic piece, you see that at the top left of the card). You place the werewolf. Then you get the effect, and after that the werewolf becomes a normal heroic piece like every other.
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Waste MaLife
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yeah, ... so "summoning" is when you place the last bit.. the one in the highlighted box,and then you do that card effect right? This is what I said already.

So the rules says what happens when you do not have any spare chits when you do the final summon. You can move the chit form elsewhere.

I am asking... if you do not have any valid patterns to do a summon, and no chits in reserve... what is the rule?
 
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Rob Robinson
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WasteMaLife wrote:
I am asking... if you do not have any valid patterns to do a summon, and no chits in reserve... what is the rule?


You'd either have to try to move one of your pieces to form a new pattern, so that it would correspond to an invocation/card you currently held. Or, include an opponents piece to form a pattern, if you were using the rules for Improvised Summoning.
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WasteMaLife wrote:
I am asking... if you do not have any valid patterns to do a summon, and no chits in reserve... what is the rule?

If you don't have valid patterns you'd have to make one by picking up a piece from the board and placing it in a new location or moving a piece. If you have a valid pattern to summon a being and have no chits left, pick up a piece from the board that is not part of the pattern. See the rules quote below.

Full rules page 2 under "Summoning a being" section:

Full rules wrote:
Piece shortage: If all your pieces of that type are already on the board, you may
still be able to summon the being. These rules apply only in the case of shortage:
– If the summoning is onto a square occupied by a piece of the type you need
(whether it is required for the pattern or not) use that piece as the newly
summoned being. (Flip it to the correct rank, if necessary.)
– If not, you can pick up a piece that is not required for the pattern and use it as
the new piece.
– If neither option is possible, then you cannot summon the being.



PaulGrogan wrote:
As an action on your turn, you can place a common piece on any empty space on the board.

Added a word there.
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Waste MaLife
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yeah that is the rules.. so badly worded. This is talking about summoning... but summoning is just the final chit right?

Anyway... we played it like that as well as you can move from anywhere outside the pattern to the pattern to make the pattern if you were out of chits to form the pattern, We also house ruled that you had to use a common chit.
 
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Guido Gloor
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WasteMaLife wrote:
yeah that is the rules.. so badly worded. This is talking about summoning... but summoning is just the final chit right?

That rule was quoted because we're talking about summoning here. When you're placing a piece as a normal action (which you can do to form a pattern, for a summon later on), then this rule from page 1 applies:

Quote:
x Possible Actions
* Place 1 common piece of your color on any empty square.
- Piece shortage: If you have none left to place, you begin this action by picking up 1 of your common or heroic pieces; then place it as a common piece.

The good news is, your "house rule" was the correct way to play (as long as you made it cost an action).
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Waste MaLife
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ahhh hah! You found it... neat. Yeah we were never meant to be talking about summoning.. I kept trying to steer it to the original post I made

Still the manual IS badly done. Splitting everything up and then using colour coded bullet points. Having to read form a book and then from a sheet. It is like that lame mage knight manual all over again!

Any thanks man.. glad you found it. it did seam the most logical way to handle it ..so glad we played it right anyway.
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Guido Gloor
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WasteMaLife wrote:
Still the manual IS badly done. Splitting everything up and then using colour coded bullet points. Having to read form a book and then from a sheet. It is like that lame mage knight manual all over again!

I think I like it better than the Mage Knight one. Because the guide is very explicit about the rules being complete this time over, and the rules are concise and to the point - and there's no such thing like the site descriptions being on separate cards that require further explanation in the guide after all.

But yeah, the color coding (although it makes it possible to have all forms with all rules on just two pages) makes it slightly hard to read. But overall, I think the rules sheet is great for use as a reference. To me, the bullet points make perfect sense, because it really is a list of things that happen.
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Ryan R

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WasteMaLife wrote:
Still the manual IS badly done. Splitting everything up and then using colour coded bullet points. Having to read form a book and then from a sheet. It is like that lame mage knight manual all over again!

I could not disagree more strongly, except that I do think they should call the guide a "sample playthrough" instead of a guide. If you read the rules first and then look at the guide for clarification, it all makes a lot of sense.

But really, having "streamlined" play in the guide book only does the game a disservice. It's not that complicated, so having people play with pretend rules for their first game is unnecessary and confusing.

So their only real mistake is in pointing people to the guidebook first. The best order to read everything (in my opinion) is 1) the introductory portion of the guide, 2) the Full Rules, 3) Stop. There's no need to read most of the guide unless you find the rules unclear.

But as the rules are actually very well written and organized, I personally have never read the guide beyond the intro. Every rules question can easily be answered by going to the very clearly labeled section of the Full Rules and re-reading the un-colored rules plus the colored rules for the type of game you are playing.

No section is terribly long, so this is not an arduous process in any case.

So I guess I'll agree that the guide is bad, but I think the rules themselves are very, very good.
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