James vanRosmalen
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Bellevue
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So I just started painting the miniatures for Flash Point and Shadows over Camelot.

With the Flash Point dog (and other characters subsequently), I am thinking what I want to do with the bottom of the base after I am complete. I was considering attaching some thin felt to the bottom to make a nice sliding piece, but also less abrasive to the game board. Has anyone else done this?

I have a painting questions about washes as well - I have read that they can re-activate the paint of the miniature. So do this mean you have to do the wash right after the initial basecoat, where the color is still uniform? For example, if you had a completely painted (and dry brushed) miniature - can you do a final wash to give it a smoky/dirty texture or will it make the colors all bleed together?

Thanks in advance.
 
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S Squidpigge
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Utah
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Whenever I put washes on warmachine miniatures I never had a problem with causing the colors to bleed. Washes typically just darken shadows and crevasses. I don't know if a wash will add an overall smoky effect to the model. Worth a shot though.
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Paul DeStefano
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Long Island
New York
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I've never had a wash re-activate the paint of a mini.

I have been painting minis for 35 years.
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James vanRosmalen
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Geosphere wrote:
I've never had a wash re-activate the paint of a mini.

I have been painting minis for 35 years.


awesome, this was the response I was looking for. I just wanted to make sure before I put a dirty wash on my fire rescue dog and screw up days worth of painting.
 
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Jake Staines
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Whether a wash will re-activate the paint depends entirely on what kind of paint and what kind of wash you use. 99.9% of the time there's no problem and you don't have to worry.

If you paint the miniature in typical hobby acrylics and then wash with a typical hobby acrylic wash or some more acrylic paint thinned down with water or alcohol then you'll be fine, because acrylic paints dry completely waterproof and alcohol doesn't react with them.

If you paint the miniature in gouache, then more or less any wash you put on it will re-activate the paint, because gouache dissolves in more or less anything and doesn't dry waterproof.

If you paint the miniature in acrylics and then use an enamel wash thinned with enamel thinners you may have problems, because some enamel thinners contain solvents which will dissolve cured acrylic paint.


If you're using paints and washes from a single line of hobby paints, then you'll be fine; if you're using something more esoteric than plain acrylics all around, it may be a good idea to perform a test on a scrap of card or sprue or something to see how it goes before attempting any of your miniatures. If you're using anything with VOCs in on plastic figures then it's a good idea to test on a bit of sprue anyway, because some solvents will even dissolve the plastic that the miniatures are made out of!

If you do have a reaction problem, then there's almost certainly a lacquer/varnish that you can spray or brush over your base coat to protect it from your wash - but again, you may need to experiment with precisely which varnish to ensure that neither the wash nor the paint react with that!

If you mention the particular brands of paints you'll be using, undoubtedly there's someone here who's used them before and can tell you with certainty whether or not there's a potential problem.
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Tom
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Plainfield
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I suspect you might have read the reactivation issue from older sites or people who make their own washes. In the last ten years the store bought washes washes are so good that at most two or three seconds occur before the paint is set enough where you don't have to worry.
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James vanRosmalen
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I am using all P3 paints.

Primer was P3 black, all painting and dry brushing was with P3, and for the wash I was planning on mixing my own with P3 paint, water, and mixing medium. I wanted to give the rescue dog the appearance of coming out of a burning building (same to the other figures), so was thinking of a slightly dirty or smoky wash so brown or gray.

Thanks for all the help guys. New to painting and didn't want to see my hard work dissolve before my eyes. Will throw a pic up when it is finished, even my naysayer wife was fairly impressed.

 
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Jake Staines
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dutchgenius wrote:
I am using all P3 paints.

Primer was P3 black, all painting and dry brushing was with P3, and for the wash I was planning on mixing my own with P3 paint, water, and mixing medium.


You will be totally fine!
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Chris Robbins
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Alcoa
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I've done a bit of work putting felt on the bottom of bases. I probably wouldn't try if it weren't for sticky backing already applied. There are pre-cut circles that have been close enough and full sheets which can be easily trimmed to the base after putting on a near fit.

I've also taken a path to the anal side, filling hollow bases with putty and even sneaking in some extra weight when there's lots of room.
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Christopher Coleman
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bltzlfsk wrote:
I've also taken a path to the anal side


What happens in the painting room stays in the painting room. laugh
 
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