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Subject: Painting the Miniatures rss

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Eugene Png
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Thought it will be a good resource for us to have the links to all the painting tutorials by Elizabeth.

Tutorial 1:


Tutorial 2:


Tutorial 3:


Tutorial 4:


Other good painting resources are as follows,

Matching of Colors

Paint Comparison

As requested, some War Paint samples by CMON.









Hope this helps and feel free to contribute to the links to help us all to paint better. Have a great day ahead.
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Christopher Taylor
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The links are broken. I have the same problem all the time. You need to remove the "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=", leaving only the video ID.

youtube=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iycH-KVO5iQ

needs to be:

youtube=iycH-KVO5iQ
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Eugene Png
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anarchy wrote:
The links are broken. I have the same problem all the time. You need to remove the "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=", leaving only the video ID.

youtube=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iycH-KVO5iQ

needs to be:

youtube=iycH-KVO5iQ


Correct and thanks for pointing it out!
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Mickey
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bookmarked !
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Eugene Png
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Heishiro1976 wrote:
bookmarked !


Thanks, friend!
 
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Randy Gamer
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Great work done there!
 
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Branden Sprenger
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I think it would be cool if CMoN gave us a list of the colors they used for every figure. They could spread it out over the next several months.

Also what is that wooden piece she is using to hold that figure? How is it attached and where can i get one?
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Eugene Png
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sprengermon wrote:
I think it would be cool if CMoN gave us a list of the colors they used for every figure. They could spread it out over the next several months.

Also what is that wooden piece she is using to hold that figure? How is it attached and where can i get one?


Use this to get an estimation of the colors to be used? Hope this helps.
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Jordan
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sprengermon wrote:
Also what is that wooden piece she is using to hold that figure? How is it attached and where can i get one?


Looks like an old spool of thread. She probably has a small piece of sticky tack on it to hold the base of the miniature to the spool. You can really use just about anything to help give you a better grip.
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Eugene Png
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Updated with the new samples for the War Paint series.
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Julien Marr
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Thanks for this, awesome.
 
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Ashley Kennedy
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Traken wrote:
sprengermon wrote:
Also what is that wooden piece she is using to hold that figure? How is it attached and where can i get one?


Looks like an old spool of thread. She probably has a small piece of sticky tack on it to hold the base of the miniature to the spool. You can really use just about anything to help give you a better grip.


Miniature painters often attach a miniature that they are working on to something easier to handle like a spool of thread, a cork, or an old paint bottle (I have an old GW paint pot that I use) so that they are not directly handling the mini and to make it more comfortable to hold.
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Dev Sodagar
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Arydis4 wrote:

Miniature painters often attach a miniature that they are working on to something easier to handle like a spool of thread, a cork, or an old paint bottle (I have an old GW paint pot that I use) so that they are not directly handling the mini and to make it more comfortable to hold.


On this topic... I also use sticky tac but find the miniature often falls (esp lead figures). Does anyone have good techniques to counter that?
 
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Mike
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ragados wrote:
Arydis4 wrote:

Miniature painters often attach a miniature that they are working on to something easier to handle like a spool of thread, a cork, or an old paint bottle (I have an old GW paint pot that I use) so that they are not directly handling the mini and to make it more comfortable to hold.


On this topic... I also use sticky tac but find the miniature often falls (esp lead figures). Does anyone have good techniques to counter that?


If it's possible, drill (with a manual hand drill or dremel on slow speed) into the bottom foot (or both feet) and glue a paperclip in, you don't need to go too deep unless the ankle is thin, then you can insert it into the cork or wood or whatever. That's what I do.

For metal 15mm soldiers I just blue tac'd them to a 4" nail (a golf tee works too). Sometimes this doesn't hold up to heavy drybrushing though.

Edit: The arcadia quest figures should tac to a spool or cork and stay pretty well without drilling.
 
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Dev Sodagar
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Thanks Mike!!! I'll give it a go.
Agreed - not had many issues with the Arcadia figs.
 
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Mike
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ragados wrote:
Thanks Mike!!! I'll give it a go.
Agreed - not had many issues with the Arcadia figs.

Glory to the Horned Rat.
 
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Dev Sodagar
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Mike B Canada wrote:

Glory to the Horned Rat.


the great ascension is nigh!
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Trent Reznor
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I was planning on painting the minis but now that I've seen the tutorials, I'm kind of discouraged. Can you actually paint all of them without removing their bases? I'm definitely not rebasing all those models. I do have some painting experience with Zombicide but those models were not as intricate.
 
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Rick S
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I rebased mine...

There where only 3 or 4 of them that I made a point to put some paint on before I put them back on their bases (hitch,victor, and scarlet).

Generally speaking, if you can't get a brush in a spot to paint it, you won't be able to see it anyway.
Just take a brush with paint on it and stick it into the hard to reach area and twirl it around.
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Bryan Penrose
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9inchnail wrote:
I was planning on painting the minis but now that I've seen the tutorials, I'm kind of discouraged. Can you actually paint all of them without removing their bases? I'm definitely not rebasing all those models. I do have some painting experience with Zombicide but those models were not as intricate.


I was able to paint all of mine without removing the bases. There were some spots that were hard to get to (mainly cloaks and such), but I thought that they turned out alright.

I agree with bigblock75, though. If it is hard to get paint on it, it will be hard to see if you missed it, so not a huge deal.
 
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Dev Sodagar
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9inchnail wrote:
I was planning on painting the minis but now that I've seen the tutorials, I'm kind of discouraged. Can you actually paint all of them without removing their bases? I'm definitely not rebasing all those models. I do have some painting experience with Zombicide but those models were not as intricate.


Removing bases certainly makes painting them a lot easier (especially where cloaks/capes are concerned) but I haven't bothered and I think it is manageable without.
 
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Tod Hostetler
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I used to paint my 40k Khorne army, but gave that hobby up many years ago including all my paints, brushes and various tools. I never moved beyond moderate skill level in painting minis, that's to say that I was the kind of painter that achieved very good effects in painstaking hours which pro painters could achieve in minutes.

I'm a recent AQ convert and treasure this game. I am considering the minis but I don't want to get passionate about it and/or invest a lot of $ or, to be honest, time. I was thinking they might look good with just a coloring of basic colors, no highlights, no drybrushing.

Just taking the heroes at a start, do you think I could make them look decent with say a $100 investment (that includes all tools, brushes and paints and solvents and glues etc., remember I'd be cold-starting my painting apparatus) and about 75 minutes per figure?
 
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Marcel
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I think you can.
These were the first minis I ever painted, and I think I used quite basic equipment for about 50€ (Wargamer Most Wanted Brushes, Army Painter Starter Pack of paints, 4 extra Colors, white primer, matte finishing spray).
I think I had an average of 2 hours per mini thanks to assembly line painting for the Orcs and Goblins.
If you can reactivate your 40k skills I'm sure you will be faster and better
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Dev Sodagar
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soldatdizzy wrote:
Just taking the heroes at a start, do you think I could make them look decent with say a $100 investment (that includes all tools, brushes and paints and solvents and glues etc., remember I'd be cold-starting my painting apparatus) and about 75 minutes per figure?


$100 will deff get you all the supplies you need and then some. 75min/figure is probably less time than you will need (certainly less time than I needed!). A lot of the figures are bright colors that don't cover as well and I often ended up doing several layers of the base coat to get an even application. 2-2.5hrs / figure is prob closer to the mark.

If you quit painting many years ago, you may have missed the quick shade phenomenon. It's a great way to get instant shading. If you have some cash left over you may want to try it out for a bit of zing on the figures. Try it out with the baddies first, it can sometimes be a bit dark but you can see a review here:
 
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Jon Darlington
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Quickshade (the thick stuff in a can; not the thin stuff in bottles) really is a great product. It comes in three shades:

Soft: a very light tint, good for very bright models
Strong: the all-purpose shade, great for medium-tone models
Dark: almost a black shade, I only use this for very dark models; for anything else this will badly darken and obscure the original colour.

Quickshade is also a great protective coating on top of your paint job; once it's dry it will NOT rub off. You can scratch it with anything hard, but it will never wear off from normal usage. I value the coat for this as much as I do the shading it provides.

I painted the miniatures below over the last month.

- I painted some pretty basic colours (with some special attention to the face).

- I did some basic highlighting; for monsters, drybrushing was often enough.

- Then I brushed on a layer of Quickshade Soft or Strong tone to shade the models. I used the Soft tone for anything with pink skin, and Strong for the rest. This included the entire base, for the protection it afforded rather than shading. (You can see evidence of the Quickshade pooled on the base. Another coat of paint just on the base once everything else is done will tidy this up nicely.)

- And finally once they were dry a layer or two of Testors Dullcoat to get rid of the glare.

These aren't painted to a professional display standard, but I think they're very good tabletop standard.

EDIT: One more note on the Quickshade. You do NOT need to dip the model into the Quickshade. Just get some of those cheap plastic Testors brushes, and use one to brush the Quickshade onto the model instead. You want a complete and even coat, but no more. This also means you don't usually have to flick the model like crazy to get rid of the excess Quickshade; just brush away any puddles. Clean the brush with Varsol.



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