Keith Malkowski
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I am really enjoying everything about this game and I am wondering if it is possible that FFP will release another expansion or supplement for this game during 2014 or are they maxed-out in dealing with their upcoming Kickstarter project?

I really enjoy this game (primarily due to the fact that the Vile Organizations each have a unique feel to them and play very differently) and I am hoping that FFP will release some more expansions that include some more evil opponents to contend against.

I would enjoy hearing your opinions.

Thanks in advance,
Keith
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Dan Buman
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I also love FanG. The different vile organizations definitely add to replayability. With the two expansions last Fall, there is a lot of game there.

I do not expect any expansions for FanG this year except for possibly a small card expansion similar to the Sands of Cairo set. After releasing two expansions last Fall, and the release of Shadows of Brimstone this late Summer, I think 2015 for the next major expansion for FanG.
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I feel like they released both expansions back to back was to get it out of the way. They are a small team and yes, Shadows of Brimstone is eating up their time.

They still have to get the A Touch of Evil deckbuilder out the door and than I think it's all Shadows of Brimstone.

I don't even expect an expansion in 2015 because a bulk of the Shadows stuff isn't due out until than.

That said, they do seem keen to always have something new for Gen Con. And as of now Fortune and Glory is sold out (and I think being reprinted), so there is some demand for the line. There is some nice stuff in the variants/files section if you want some more goodness. I'm thinking of sleeving my dangers cards in clear sleeves so I can print out the ones in the files section for more variation.

Jorune
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Dan Buman
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Jorune, the danger cards by ninjadorg are excellent. I sleeved my danger cards so I could use them and they are a nice addition.
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1932f20 wrote:
Jorune, the danger cards by ninjadorg are excellent. I sleeved my danger cards so I could use them and they are a nice addition.


Exactly what I was thinking. Their is also a new Vile Organization I just saw, The Tongs and The Cult of the Mummy.

Jorune
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Hubert AMG
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Fan made is like FFP made. They did an expansion for LNoE where they did not print the scenario on the cardboard - just add it as A4 printout.

Regarding more expansions for FaNG this year - I say - no way. Creating danger pack and two expansions took them ages. I would not expect too much for FaNG in the next 2-3 years.
 
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David Mason
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I also would not write off the possibility of a Danger Pack 2 or something similar to Sands of Cairo to keep the FANG loyal appeased.
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Hubert AMG
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Come on 10 more cards now... you will not even feel that you have them in your deck
 
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Neil Edmonds
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Flying Frog always puts hints in the rule books about upcoming products near the credits. There's more FANG to come but I don't think you'll see anything this year.

Pulp serials sometimes have crazy adventures in places like Atlantis or Dinosaur Island. I asked Scott Hill about this at the Shadows of Brimstone demo and he told me they're investigating ideas like that for Fortune and Glory.
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David Bate
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2014, could it be the year of the fan expansion explosion?
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wrrlykam wrote:
2014, could it be the year of the fan expansion explosion?


I think I exploded last year with all my stuff!!
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dragoncymru wrote:
wrrlykam wrote:
2014, could it be the year of the fan expansion explosion?


I think I exploded last year with all my stuff!!


Yeah, I'm going through it all now.

Jorune
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Daniel U. Thibault
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Jorune wrote:
That said, they do seem keen to always have something new for Gen Con. And as of now Fortune and Glory is sold out (and I think being reprinted), so there is some demand for the line. There is some nice stuff in the variants/files section if you want some more goodness. I'm thinking of sleeving my dangers cards in clear sleeves so I can print out the ones in the files section for more variation.

Jorune


Exactly! You can then use the old Adventure/Artifact cards that were replaced to make the new Dangers as stiff as the rest.
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Nick E
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Jorune wrote:
I feel like they released both expansions back to back was to get it out of the way. They are a small team and yes, Shadows of Brimstone is eating up their time.

They still have to get the A Touch of Evil deckbuilder out the door and than I think it's all Shadows of Brimstone.

I don't even expect an expansion in 2015 because a bulk of the Shadows stuff isn't due out until than.

That said, they do seem keen to always have something new for Gen Con. And as of now Fortune and Glory is sold out (and I think being reprinted), so there is some demand for the line. There is some nice stuff in the variants/files section if you want some more goodness. I'm thinking of sleeving my dangers cards in clear sleeves so I can print out the ones in the files section for more variation.

Jorune

I hope so. That would be nice.
 
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Neil Edmonds
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I sleeve my cards so I found playing cards a good replacement too if you're rolling your own with a color printer (two sides of color printer paper + playing card = pretty good thickness).

As an aside, I painted all of my Fortune and Glory minis which you can see in my gallery. I should have photos up for A Touch of Evil soon. I've painted 8 so far and they easily rival my best FANG minis.
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Autoduelist wrote:
I sleeve my cards so I found playing cards a good replacement too if you're rolling your own with a color printer (two sides of color printer paper + playing card = pretty good thickness).

As an aside, I painted all of my Fortune and Glory minis which you can see in my gallery. I should have photos up for A Touch of Evil soon. I've painted 8 so far and they easily rival my best FANG minis.


I'd like to paint my mini's from both games too. Do you have a how-to for newbies. I'm not interested in super techniques, just something passable.

Jorune
 
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Neil Edmonds
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I posted a lot of tips on one of my Fortune and Glory posts. I've learned more since then so I'm happy to share what I learned.

I picked up painting with only a few hours of study. I read some painting posts on BGG, watched a YouTube video on dry-brushing, and studied some photos of well-painted miniatures to see if I could figure out what other painters did. This last technique is really helpful when you you're having trouble figuring out how to tackle a particular problem. For me, it was figuring out how do I shade a black surface (answer: Add white highlight on the highpoints or drybrush with grey).

For equipment here's what I'd recommend:

Reading glasses - You can pick these up cheap in a drugstore and they're a lot easier to work with than those magnifying glass contraptions with clips to hold figures.

Good brushes - You can get away with cheap nylon brushes but be prepared to buy them more often. You'll need a good flat shader (ie - narrow square head) for drybrushing and some good fine point brushes for detail work. I find as the brushes get ratty I clip off the errant hairs to keep a consistent point. True the brush point gets smaller all the time but it only helps me with the fine detail work so the brush actually gets "better" the more I use it. Once you get some practice in you can even use 1 and 2 hair brushes to "drag" paint along a surface for some really fantastic narrow and straight lines. If you've got the courage buy a flat liner and cut off most of the hairs to create a 2 hair brush with some long bristles. You can get some amazingly narrow lines.

Paint - I've gotten by with cheap craft store level paints. They only cost a $1 vs. $3.50 for dedicated miniature paints and you get a lot more paint. If you go this route make sure to buy an eye dropper from the drug store so you can thin the paints with water. I scoop out a bit of paint with a toothpick, add a drop of water, and thin it so the paint spreads easily but still behaves like paint. If the paint's too thin you can always add another thin coat later but go too thick with the paint and you lose details. If that happens you might be better off stripping the model and starting over. I wish I'd done that with Jake the Pilot.

Now here are three techniques that can elevate your painting from "okay" to "good". You don't have to use them on all your miniatures but I find I'm using at least one of them on each figure I paint:

1.) Inking / Washes - This involves taking darker color paint to add shadows to the recesses of a model. I haven't used commercial products but I've heard they're a lot better than my cheap method for doing it.

What I do is take a blob of paint and add 2-4 drops of eye dropper water to it. The paint should be runny like water. You then either paint the section of the model with a big brush or you strategically add it to specific folds and creases by directing the water with your fine brush. Dip the brush in your fluid - use the surface not the bottom - then apply the tip to the top of the fold and let gravity do the work for you.

Once you're done you'll have to fix the raised surfaces and that involves the next technique or if you need fine grain control - painting over the surfaces a second time with your fine bush while avoiding the creases.

2.) Dry brushing - This involves using a lighter shade of paint to add highlights to the raised surfaces of the models. You see this technique on my FANG mobsters or Shelly the race car driver. I paint the miniature black and then dry brush grey on the model.

To dry brush dip your flat shader in grey paint then dab it off on a napkin (both sides and the square edge). Go until you don't see any more streaks on the napkin. Thick or old drying out paint works even better than the thinned out stuff so if you're using cheap craft store paints don't use the eye dropper full of water on it.

Then lightly whip the brush back and forth over the surface of the model. Don't use a heavy stroke. You're trying to reach the high surfaces of the model - cloth folds, shoe laces - while leaving the deep recesses alone. This will apply paint flakes attached to the brush to the surfaces of the model. The more strokes you use the more paint is applied and the lighter that surface gets. So while inking addes color depth by darkening the creases, drybrushing adds depth by lightening the surfaces.

One of things I enjoy about dry brushing is that it sometimes exposes recesses in the model I didn't see. I'll shade those places darker and add even more detail to the model.

When you're satisfied with the dry brushing you can use your fine tip paint brushes to add highlights to stubborn areas. For example, Shelly's shoe laces and the creases on my Treasure Hunter mob villains are perfectly lined because I painted those with a brush.

3.) Lining - I'm not sure for the exact name of this technique but some people have problems getting a good clear line between surfaces on the model; for example, the shirt and pants of a figure or the jacket and shirt of a figure. One way to get a good visual effect - and I suspect it's something the pros do with photograph worthy models - is to add a thin separating line between the two surfaces. For example use a thin gray line at the border to separate a white shirt from dark paints. Use a thin mocha wash to separate a chocolate brown jacket from a khaki shirt. Washes work good for this. You'll see this technique in full force when I post photos of Frederic the French ambassador in the next day or two.

And there you have it. If you've got the vision for it and can paint a straight line you can do it too. And as far as the latter goes, sometimes you just have to pain along the outside edges of said line with a different color to make it straight.

Good luck!

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Neil Edmonds
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My first batch of ATOE figures are posted in the ATOE general forum. The pictures are also available in my gallery.

Another tip I can share for the hair on Fortune and Glory models. I use an ink with a dark shade for the recesses of the hair - something darker than I intend for the primary color of the hair so this usually means black or chocolate brown. The I dry-brush the surface of the hair with the correct color or in the case of black hair neutral gray. Often the lines are pretty faint though so if dry-brushing doesn't work re-ink and just paint the hairs manually with a fine brush. It doesn't have to be exact following the lines of the hair, just be sure to leave some space between hairs and recesses on the model. Check out my ATOE models for some good examples of this technique: Liliana the Lost Soul, Maria the smuggler, and Frederic the diplomat.
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Great tips, Autoduelist. Thanks. Some day I may get over my fear of royally screwing up and start painting minis.
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