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Introduction: While this hero miniature isn't part of the Conversion Kit, its Hero sheet is, and the miniature can be found in Descent 1st edition, Runebound 2nd edition, and Runewars. I'll eventually be painting and hopefully writing tutorials on the Hero miniatures that can be found in all three games for use with Decent 2nd edition. Since they're Heroes, I'll be putting more effort into painting these miniatures than the Descent 2nd edition monsters I've written painting tutorials for. However, I'm still aiming for tabletop, because I want to play with these miniatures. The tutorial is aimed towards new painters who want tabletop quality, without too much work.

Monster painting tutorials: http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1173960/painting-tutorial-ba...

Mold Lines: Mold lines are the "lines" of excess plastic on the miniature that should be cut off with a hobby knife, and filed off with small files. An engraving pen (under $10 at some craft stores) is a small handheld battery-operated "drill" with an industrial diamond-tipped head that will remove mold lines *much* faster. After removing mold lines, clean the figures in hot soapy water to remove the mold release agent, an oil. If you find mold lines after priming, you can still remove them. You can either spray primer again, or use clear gesso (about $8 at craft stores) to paint over the plastic to "prime" the model for painting.

Pre-shading: It's much easier to paint one entire figure than several small areas, and you can shade your figure this way with primer, washing, and drybrushing.

Priming: Hardware stores sell spray primer, and make sure to purchase primer that says it will bond to plastic. When spraying primer, first clear the nozzle with a quick burst not aimed towards the miniature, then spray in sweeps starting a few inches to the side of the miniature. To pre-shade, first completely prime the miniature black. Then lightly coat it in grey, then white, inspecting the miniature between sprays. You want the raised surfaces to be white, and recesses to be black. The black will give you a head start with shadows on the miniature, and the white areas will make highlights easier.



The flash makes it difficult to distinguish the primer shade from the flash, but you can see it in the boot.
One of the arms has mold lines that were missed and later fixed with black primer.


Next: More pre-shading with washes.
 
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Wash: Secret Weapon Soft Body Black is an "organic" black wash, that lacks the harshness of most black washes, but still provides shade. The entire figure was washed to enhance the shading.

Dusting: After the wash dried, the figure was drybrushed in grey then white, to add contrast.

 
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Eyes: Eyes are the focus of a miniature, but can be discouragingly hard to paint. White ink doesn't have the thick "blobby" problem white paint can have, and a sharp tip from a size 0 brush will help. Grey paint can be used to "erase" any white paint that makes the eye too large.

 
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Flesh: As a general guideline, paint from the "inside out" of the model: eyes, flesh, clothing, boots, armor, weapons. I don't always follow this, preferring to paint difficult areas first, such as eyes and metal. For the flesh, I shaped the brush tip in to a paddle and lightly painted the raised surfaces of the model.



Missed a few areas. Oh, well.
 
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White: The edge of the brush was used to apply thin layers of white to the raised parts of the beard.

Metal: Reaper's Shadowed Steel was first applied to the metal parts then, if necessary, a lighter metallic was added to simulate the reflection from the edge of the blade.

 
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Blue: The shoulder pads and cloth were painted blue. The blue looked a bit "plastic" so Secret Weapon Blue Wash was used (later picture).

Brown: The fur coat was painted brown, the washed with Secret Weapon Sewer Water, a brown wash. Secret Weapon Dark Sepia and Baby Poop are other brown washes, and they also worked.

 
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Blue Wash: Secret Weapon Blue Wash was applied to the blue paint to give it some depth. The blue paint looked a little "plastic".

Black Wash: Secret Weapon Heavy Body Black was applied to the metallic "studs" to add back shade covered by the metallic paint.

Metallic Wash: Secret Weapon Armor Wash was applied to the gold paint to add shade.

 
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Cap: The figure's cap was basecoated in white ink, followed by diluted brown ink for the "horns" and diluted Secret Weapon Concrete, a grey wash, to add shade to the cap.

 
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Brown: Leggings, boots, and inside fur were painted various browns, then washed with Secret Weapon Sewer Wash.

 
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Base: Painted with brown craft paint, glued with fine craft sand, glued again with playground sand (rougher texture) on some of the surface, painted with brown craft paint, and drybrushed with tan. Finally, a small dot of glue was applied with a paperclip, and static grass was added by pressing against the dot and shaking off the excess upside down.

 
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