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Firefly: The Game – Blue Sun» Forums » Variants

Subject: Help With Custom Reaver Ships...? rss

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Andrew Staplin
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I know I wasn't the only one excited when I heard that there would be more Reaver Cutters in the new expansion. I also know that I wasn't the only one disappointed when I saw the images of the exact same game pieces I already have. So, I was thinking that I would make myself some custom Reaver ships out of old Star Wars Micro Machines.

The only problem is a big one: I've never made custom miniatures before. I've painted minis, and I have an idea of what parts from which ships I would combine and "tear up" before slapping some blood-red paint on them, but I'm distressingly unfamiliar with the tools and processes with which to take apart and put together the little plastic pieces. cry

I've had trouble finding much online so far (and maybe my Google skills are weaker than I'd once thought), but does anyone here know where I could find out more about such things? Any information on what kind of glues, putties, cutting tools to use to make these look semi-professional would be incredibly helpful.
 
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Wade Hobby
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My homemade reaver ships keep losing their extra fins and engine mods, super glue ain't so super afterall. next I'm going to make the ship and then make a mold of them, then make a new solid plastic ship from the mold in colored plastic.
I have gotten all that I need from Reynolds Advanced Materials.
 
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George Krubski
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Out of curiosity, were you able to do extras of the new ships from PBH?
 
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Bruce Moffatt
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DeadmeatDad wrote:
My homemade reaver ships keep losing their extra fins and engine mods, super glue ain't so super afterall. next I'm going to make the ship and then make a mold of them, then make a new solid plastic ship from the mold in colored plastic.
I have gotten all that I need from Reynolds Advanced Materials.


Actually Wade, as they are Reaver Cutters, the fact that they have bits falling off them is probably the pinnacle of accuracy!

Seriously though, what material did you use for the models you're having problems with? Cyanoacrylate will bond Styrene, but it doesn't have a lot of 'shear' strength, so parts put under any pressure will pop apart at the join. A good liquid styrene cement actually welds the mating surfaces together, giving a stronger bond. I use Revell Contacta in the blue container with the needle applicator and it works very well.
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Wade Hobby
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Thanks, Bruce, I'll try the liquid styrene and see if that helps.
I've been in the middle of a move, George, (repainting, building shelves, etc.) so I haven't had time to put much effort into the P&BH ship mold making.
The Walden and her engine design does give me a bit of a pause for making a two part mold that will capture it's detail, but I have confidence it can be done.
The Interloper has those super slender wings and it seems like whatever angle I put the pour spout in the mold I'm going to lose some detail so it is a challenge, but I am going to try it before the end of July.
I will post pics of the success or disaster as it may be.
I'm also working on a Series 4 and Series 1 Fireflies by hobbling together pieces of failed castings and will be making molds of those too.
I'm loving the pics of the various ships from the online game and may even try my hand at creating some of those, but I get ahead of myself.
Oh and, Andrew, definitely use an X-acto knife. they are much easier to work with than any old razor, but be really careful.
 
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George Krubski
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Not to sidetrack... with respect to the Series 4, are there pictures? I'm pretty sure Bea's ship in the new comic is a Series 4 (It looks like a big, bloated version of Serenity), but I was hoping for some visual confirmation.
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Mike Dawson
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I have used Gorilla Glue to bond wierd size pieces together as it will expand to fill the gaps. Superglue will only bond when the 2 pieces are completely together. The issue I have come across with that is GG will expand a lot and then either push the pieces apart or expand out of that point and then harden as well. Use sparingly.
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James Rhys
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something I used to do when adapting Warhammer models and needing a strong join was to get a small drill, about 1mm width bit, and drill a hole in the joining face of each part, where they would meet, about 2mm or more if I could get away with it and the model allowed. Then I'd cut a small piece of straight, strong wire, the same width as the bit, to put either end into each hole with a bit of glue to act as a peg securing the two pieces together. Depending on the size of your models, maybe that could help?
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Wade Hobby
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gwek wrote:
Not to sidetrack... with respect to the Series 4, are there pictures? I'm pretty sure Bea's ship in the new comic is a Series 4 (It looks like a big, bloated version of Serenity), but I was hoping for some visual confirmation.

there is a sketch of it in the Firefly blueprints package which gives a lot of fun background and images of all the fireflies including those used in the war as gunboats.
The 4 has two cargo bays, a full entertainment room (I assume that means vids game tables or whatever the captain considers entertaining), a hydroponics area, staterooms for passengers and larger engines (probably cancelling the extra mass of the ship which is looks like a bloated firefly, or maybe a dragon...).
 
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Chris Cully
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AMarsReject wrote:
something I used to do when adapting Warhammer models and needing a strong join was to get a small drill, about 1mm width bit, and drill a hole in the joining face of each part, where they would meet, about 2mm or more if I could get away with it and the model allowed. Then I'd cut a small piece of straight, strong wire, the same width as the bit, to put either end into each hole with a bit of glue to act as a peg securing the two pieces together. Depending on the size of your models, maybe that could help?


I have to second Mr Rhys here - Pinning (as the process is usually called in GW circles at least) adds an extra dimension to the join with the pin, and helps with the shear strength issue.

I'd also recommend milliput or kneadatite (green stuff) to fill in gaps between pieces - this also adds to the strength of the join, and when combining with pinning can make a bond almost as strong as styrene cement. You can also use molding tools (or even dental pics) to sculpt additional detail if required
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Andrew Staplin
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Awesome. All of these ideas have been incredibly helpful! I'll shop around for the right kinds of adhesives, and I'll try my hand at pinning together joining pieces. I had never considered molding and casting before, but that would certainly take away any stress about the glued pieces falling apart, and I could make some copies for my friends, too. It's something I'm now considering very strongly...
 
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ugo oliveti
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just bought 12 ships (plastic) from silent death game (some are looking very good for reavers) and i'm planning to build and paint some other to make the custom ships i've found here!
 
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Matthew Cafiero
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Ground Zero Games has a selection of space minis.

Their Glowworms are smaller fireflies, and some of their other ships have decent levels of detail and VERY reasonable prices, even with shipping from the UK. I got my Brutus Orion Liner, my Baka Maru Bulk Freighter, and a half dozen fireflies from them. Very satisfied.

http://shop.groundzerogames.co.uk/index.php?_a=category&cat_...
 
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Mike Dawson
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Which ships did you use for the Brutus and the Baka?
 
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George Krubski
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Metal or plastic?
 
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