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Marvel Dice Masters: Avengers vs. X-Men» Forums » Strategy

Subject: Deck Construction rss

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Jasper Birch
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I was wondering how other people decide how 'big' a deck is in Marvel Dice Masters. In collectible card games (at least in the ones I played) there used to be a sort of standard for a maximum number of cards in a deck for it to able to work best. Now in dice masters you cannot go from here, but I personally tend to go from the total cost of all dice trying to get the total cost of all dice around 80 with a max of 85. I was just wondering how other people work in constructing their decks.

I've had some great ideas, but when I started working things out I got stuck with a mixture of cards costing 4 and up with no cheap cards to start out with, making it impossible to get the deck going. And personally I do like to build a deck where each card helps out in the total strategy of the deck instead of having 'standard' cards that go in every deck, like I read from some other people.
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Sias Mey
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I think there are enough different 2 and 3 cost characters and actually basic actions to make most ideas fly.

However, my very limited construction experience has been that this is a game where your sideboard is on the table. You bring a core group of characters that you expect will win you the game and a few other odd and end characters in case you come up against something nasty your core group is not good at countering.

Beast and Storm and BW are good not only because they are cheap dice but also because they are amazing counters. So you see them everywhere not just because they are good and "Core" but also quite often as a big part of sideboard.
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Peter Rabinowitz
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FredjeBono wrote:
I got stuck with a mixture of cards costing 4 and up with no cheap cards to start out with, making it impossible to get the deck going.

You could always start out with 2 or 3 cost basic actions to get going.
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Adam
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The OP has an interesting concept. Basically the way I build my decks is by cost and energy. I try and have a good mix of 2-6 cost dice with little fielding cost as possible. I also look at the energy needed. I try and make sure that I have the same energy in my 6 costs as I do in my 2-3 costs, that way if I don't roll a character, I don't have a possible double energy that I can't use. Of course strategy plays a big part in what cards are in my deck. I don't like to have all my eggs in one basket, or in MTG terms, going for the charbelcher. I like to maintain control of the board and have various options to counter the big decks right now.

When selecting how many dice for each card, I usually go 3-4 dice per on my 2-3's and 2 dice on my 4-5's and 1 on my 6's. If the game gets tot he point that I wish I had more of my 6's, I've done something terribly wrong, or the dice just hate me
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Richard Taylor
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I break mine down into 2 groups. Group 1 is the characters I intend to field and Group 2 are my global ability characters. Group 1 usually has 3-4 characters like Beast, Gobby, Black Widow, Human Torch or Storm which are between 2-4 in cost as they can be purchased in one roll and are the main strategy of the deck. Group 2 are the globals and counters like Mr Fantastic, Phoenix, Iron Man, War Machine who are universally useful in shutting down the Rush combos and help me regain Hit Points.
 
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Jasper Birch
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1havok12 wrote:
The OP has an interesting concept. Basically the way I build my decks is by cost and energy. I try and have a good mix of 2-6 cost dice with little fielding cost as possible. I also look at the energy needed. I try and make sure that I have the same energy in my 6 costs as I do in my 2-3 costs, that way if I don't roll a character, I don't have a possible double energy that I can't use. Of course strategy plays a big part in what cards are in my deck. I don't like to have all my eggs in one basket, or in MTG terms, going for the charbelcher. I like to maintain control of the board and have various options to counter the big decks right now.

When selecting how many dice for each card, I usually go 3-4 dice per on my 2-3's and 2 dice on my 4-5's and 1 on my 6's. If the game gets tot he point that I wish I had more of my 6's, I've done something terribly wrong, or the dice just hate me


I agree with you, in my first games I thought it would be great to have 3 dice on a 6-cost character, but realistically you never get to the point where you can actually get all 3 of those in play, so I reduced the number of dice on a 6 character to 1 as well, 2 at most.

And I also make sure that I have the same energy types on my cheaper characters as on my more expensive characters so I increase the odds to be able to buy them.

I probably miss the experience right now to see what counters I should just add to certain decks in case I run against something I otherwise won't be able to stop, so right now my decks are probably too much focused on one singular strategy instead of having a few more options, but maybe my first tournament on Sunday will teach me more of that. (And hopefully I will be able to get my hands on a few cards that I am missing still as well)
 
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Jasper Birch
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rhadamanthine wrote:
I break mine down into 2 groups. Group 1 is the characters I intend to field and Group 2 are my global ability characters. Group 1 usually has 3-4 characters like Beast, Gobby, Black Widow, Human Torch or Storm which are between 2-4 in cost as they can be purchased in one roll and are the main strategy of the deck. Group 2 are the globals and counters like Mr Fantastic, Phoenix, Iron Man, War Machine who are universally useful in shutting down the Rush combos and help me regain Hit Points.


I am just now starting to see the value of having those Globals in your deck, but I am not very keen on sacrificing half my character slots to just have certain Globals in my deck, I think some of my decks couldn't even be reduced to 4-5 characters aiming for something to replace the rest for just those Globals.
 
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