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Introduction: While this hero miniature isn't part of the Conversion Kit, its Hero sheet is, and the miniature can be found in Descent 1st edition, Runebound 2nd edition, and Runewars. I'll eventually be painting and hopefully writing tutorials on the Hero miniatures that can be found in all three games for use with Decent 2nd edition. Since they're Heroes, I'll be putting more effort into painting these miniatures than the Descent 2nd edition monsters I've written painting tutorials for. However, I'm still aiming for tabletop, because I want to play with these miniatures. The tutorial is aimed towards new painters who want tabletop quality, without too much work.

Monster painting tutorials: http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1173960/painting-tutorial-ba...

Mad Carthos painting tutorial: http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1178214/painting-tutorial-ma...
One-Fist painting tutorial:
http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1188343/painting-tutorial-on...
Bogran the Shadow tutorial:
http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1195310/painting-tutorial-bo...
Ronan the Wild painting tutorial:
http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1183943/painting-tutorial-ro...

Note: The pre-shading steps for this model are the same as other figures.

Mold Lines: Mold lines are the "lines" of excess plastic on the miniature. Cut them off with an X-Acto or other hobby knife, and small files. An engraving pen (under $10 at some craft stores) is a small handheld battery-operated "drill" with an industrial diamond-tipped head and can help remove mold lines. After removing mold lines, clean the figures in hot soapy water to remove the mold release agent, an oil, and unbend any bent plastic parts, such as swords. If you find mold lines after priming, remove them and apply brush-on primer, then color-match the figure with grey and white paints.

Pre-shading: I find it easier to work with the entire figure as much as possible in greyscale, then start painting individual areas. You can pre-shade your figure this way with primer, washing, and drybrushing.

Priming: Hardware stores sell spray primer, and make sure to purchase primer that says it will bond to plastic. When spraying primer, first clear the nozzle with a quick burst not aimed towards the miniature, then spray in sweeps starting a few inches to the side of the miniature. To pre-shade, first completely prime the miniature black. Then lightly coat it in grey, then white, inspecting the miniature between sprays. You want the raised surfaces to be white, and recesses to be black. The black will give you a head start with shadows on the miniature, and the white areas will make highlights easier.

Wash: Secret Weapon's Soft Body Black is an "organic" black wash, that's not as harsh as other black washes. By applying the wash, more of the details stand out.

Base: The base was painted brown, sand glued to it, painted brown again, then drybrushed in light browns and greys. A dot of glue was applied then static grass.

Eyes: Since the eyes were going to be painted red, the eye sockets were underpainted pink.

Note: From the eyes through most of the painting, I recommend a Size 0 brush because of the figure's detail.

 
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Eyes: Painted the eyes red, then touched up with grey.

Flesh: Painted the flesh grey, then gradually added white ink for the nose, and edges of his face.

Teeth: Touched up with white ink.

 
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Leather: Painted leather parts with light brown. These areas will be washed later to restore detail.

Gold: Underpainted gold parts with light brown. These areas will be painted gold.

 
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Steel: Painted steel on parts of the axe and wristbands.

Gold: Painted gold on parts of the axe.

Brown: Darker brown was glazed over the lighter brown, and painted on the skirt and other parts.

 
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Yellow: Yellow edges were underpainted orange, then painted yellow.

Blacklining: Secret Weapon wash Soft Body Black was again used for blacklining. Eyes were washed with Soft Body Black for better definition.

Not shown: Additional painting with brown, and washing with Secret Weapon wash Dark Sepia (any brown wash will do) on brown parts.



Ready for tabletop!
 
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