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1831» Forums » General

Subject: laminating the board? rss

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Jason Adultman
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I just got my copy from AAG and am considering getting the board segments laminated to preserve them and give the some thickness. I'm wondering if anyone else has thought of doing something similar or had a better idea. I didn't realize that the board wasn't going to be mounted.
 
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JR
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Jasonbartfast wrote:
I just got my copy from AAG and am considering getting the board segments laminated to preserve them and give the some thickness. I'm wondering if anyone else has thought of doing something similar or had a better idea. I didn't realize that the board wasn't going to be mounted.


It was stated on the AAG site that it would be a heavy paper map cut to fit. Laminating can be done. What are the sizes of the board sections? The downside is that you may not be able to find satin lamination like DTG uses and standard stuff can cause glare depending on lighting. I don't find standard lamination to be a deal breaker, but you sure can tell the difference between components from DTG and my own made almost identically but with clear lam.

Personally I would prefer to leave the game parts unmolested and try to find a piece of thin perspex/acrylic plastic. Just a 1/8" thick sheet would be more than adequate if you can find the right LxW size. The plastic shop in my area sometimes has odds-and-ends such as production discards or mismatched sections for sale a bit cheaper (plastic is expensive), so that's something to look into. The nice thing is that once you have invested in a large piece of perspex, you can re-use it for other games with paper maps (and if/when you print-and-play games you won't need to fuss with mounting or even laminating home-made boards).
 
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Lo
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What place in town are you referring to, JR?
 
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JR
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Lowengrin wrote:
What place in town are you referring to, JR?


Industrial Plastics at Cloverdale & Oak.
 
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Lo
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jrebelo wrote:
Lowengrin wrote:
What place in town are you referring to, JR?


Industrial Plastics at Cloverdale & Oak.

Of course! Thanks!
 
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Jason Adultman
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I've decided to just wait for a corrected PDF of the board to be posted and then get that printed at a local print shop.
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JR
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Jasonbartfast wrote:
I've decided to just wait for a corrected PDF of the board to be posted and then get that printed at a local print shop.


I haven't seen a mention of map errors. Do you have a reference?
 
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Mike Johnston
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jrebelo wrote:
Jasonbartfast wrote:
I've decided to just wait for a corrected PDF of the board to be posted and then get that printed at a local print shop.


I haven't seen a mention of map errors. Do you have a reference?

#2 from an email on 7 August from All-Aboard Games:

"Another 1831 update--all the copies were shipped and one customer found two component errors.

1. B&M charter is mislabeled ("Baltimore" and Maine)
2. Par price 122 is missing from the Par Bar Chart.

I apologize for these errors and I will mail a fix kit in September. I want to make sure there is a chance for the initial copies to reach international destinations and catch any other errors. If you find anything else, please pass them along to me."
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Steve Carey
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Jasonbartfast wrote:
I didn't realize that the board wasn't going to be mounted.


Neither did I Jason (so glad you brought it up), but as noted it is clearly indicated as not being so on AA's website.

The map is too big to mount, even in two sections?
 
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Runs with scissors
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Plexi is one answer. I've also started using 24x36" toploaders from BCW for a lot of paper wargame maps. They can be a bit tricky to slide in, but the advantage is that when you bump them the plastic and map both move. I generally order them 10 at a time to get the best pricing. Your cost will be more, but in the US when I order 10 they come to $7.50 apiece including shipping.

http://www.bcwsupplies.com/type/toploader/large
 
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Richard Clyne
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I printed out the corrected board and mounted it on foam board. I'm not sure if I will chop the board in half to make it smaller for storage.
 
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