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Cthulhu Wars» Forums » General

Subject: Painting figures brainstorming! rss

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Ben Waxman

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Hi,

As a miniature painter I'm excited / daunted by the sheer number of figures coming with CW. While I would like to paint them all, this would take months and would lead to games that featured painted vs unpainted factions.

Rather than doing a detailed paint job on all the figs, I'm trying to come up with a solution that allows the faction color to be easily recognizable to facilitate gameplay while enhancing the detailed sculpts.

Here are some thoughts. Would love to hear your suggestions!

Options:

1. Man/Woman up and paint one faction at a time with tabletop quality according to best guess of color from images online. Paint the base in the faction color as its faction identifier.

2. Clean the minis well with warm soapy water, dry well, then apply a thin wash of black or brown ink to the figs to enhance detail and shadow effects. Let dry then seal with a matte spray. This would allow the faction color to come through for easy identification but enhance detail and theme by highlighting the evocative sculpts.

3. Spray EVERY figure with a black primer layer to fill in all the nooks and crannies. Let dry. Then lightly highlight from a high angle with the faction color to catch the raised parts, show detail, and allow easy faction identification.

Please share your ideas. I'm not sure what to do but would like a strong plan before embarking on my quest to pimp out this massive game.
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Ze Masqued Cucumber
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A quick and dirty method is to basecoat directly with coloured spray, wash, drybrush, and varnish. That requires 4 sprays, 4 washes, 4 paints, 1 matte varnish spray (for the base game of course).
And the soap part is highly recommended, whatever the method.
For more info, check the mini painters ' guild.

I for one intend to paint them at my usual level (that is, it'll take quite a bit of time).
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Blue Prophet
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My plan has always been to eventually do some version of #1. But as a beginning painter, I want some experience under my belt before trying these types of creatures. I hope that using only the bases as faction color identification is enough on a busy board with all these huge figures. Obviously veterans will know which figure belongs to which faction, but I want to be able to play with new players by using some visual cues to tell factions apart.
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Anthony Stockseth
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In the same way that the painters at Fenris have shown, I intend to go about it using the #1 method, taking a couple months meticulously painting each figure, but using a palette of colors that are native to that color's faction.

In other words, I won't have purple Deep Ones, they will be varying shades of green. My Undead won't be brown and black, they will be shades of light and dark yellow, and so fourth.
In spirit of the original creature's lore and design, I will actually be re-coloring Sleeper's units black. I love how Fenris painted their Formless Spawns, and I hope to emulate that in my own efforts. I'll probably cheat a little bit on the highlighting, using a gloss clear topcoat, rather than a matte clear topcoat for any creatures that should appear sufficiently slimy.

I'll be, of course, putting up pictures as I make progress.
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Bruce Moffatt
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Future floor polish gives an excellent glossy finish to suggest slime. IT is compatible with acrylic paints. The only thing to watch out for is to make sure your ink washes are totally dry before applying it as it can make them run if they are damp.

Best thing about it is it's hard as nails (it's meant to polish floor tiles, after all) so it really protects your paintwork. You can brush it on or apply it through an airbrush.

As for painting my Minis, I will be going the high detail, faction colour palette route, with a very obvious faction coloured base to minimise confusion.

I'll start with a dark undercoat and successive dry brush and ink washes to build up the colour on the larger figures, then add details and highlights at the final stages. The base edge will be a single colour that matches the original faction plastic colour as closely as possible. I'll be careful to note what colours I use for the faction bases and make sure it is readily available.
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Freelance Police
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Zenithal prime: Spray completely in black, then use Army Painter or other color primer for the highlights.

Pre-ink: Wash to show details.

I did this with the Zombicide toxic zombies with Army Painter Necrotic Flesh, and Army Painter Quickshade Green:



Alternately, Zenithal prime highlighting in white, then slap on the washes. Secret Weapon Washes has a wide range of colors, including yellow.

These RAFM figures were washed in AP Quickshade Green and Blue. Eyes, rock, and flute were washed in red and brown. Once you're all done washing, you have the luxury of painting the figures. The wash will act as a shade, so you have less work to do.

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Mike Beiter
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My goal is to paint each of my figures to the best of my ability. The way I will do it is balance.

I will start by painting the GOOs. I think having your GOO painted to perfection first is an absolute must.

Then either do all the factions at a time or spread the love. Like do all one factions cultists, then do the next factions and so on.

I will probably paint figures by most to least used as well. If someone just rarely plays figure X I will hold off on painting it.
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Greg S
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Let me also chime in for using The Army Painter products.

Being an "old-school" miniature painter, I used to turn my nose up at these products. However, I've recently worked on painting larger armies and gaming figures (Zombiecide as well!), and it has changed my attitude completely.

It's all in how you use them. I find that a neat, careful approach yields the best results, rather than slapping paint on and dipping. I use not only the gloss dip products, but also their acrylic washes depending upon the application. I also never "dip", but rather apply with a brush and take care to "lift off" or "wick" the excess wash from areas where they collect too much.

You'll be pleasantly surprised at just how quickly you can get a large number of miniatures painted to a high gaming-standard quality.
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sacha cauvin
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Following this thread closely...

Amateur painter i am your advice i Will apply.
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Freelance Police
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MajaiofDreams wrote:
I will start by painting the GOOs. I think having your GOO painted to perfection first is an absolute must.


For the n00bs, I recommend the reverse. Assembly-line paint the sculpts with the most miniatures, starting on the easier "naked monsters with no pupils" such as the deep ones. Clothed figures (eg. wizard and cultists) take more work. After painting fifty-some figures, a n00b painter won't be so n00b anymore, so can tackle painting the GOOs to a higher quality than the grunts.

OTOH, Anyone who's experience please paint the GOO's first! I want to see AWESOME with your work! goo
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Anthony Stockseth
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I don't think I'll be doing the GOOs first. Most likely I'll start with the Nightgaunts and Undead, move over to the Mi-Go and the Deep Ones, and then see how I feel. I'll either tackle the daunting and monotonous task of painting the cultists next, or go to the "slimy" critters like Shoggoths and Polyps.

I'd want more time painting up these figs and seeing how they do before I jump right into the GOOs.
 
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Ani Maniac
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I'll start with the easier, working my way up to the huge GOOs, but doing it one faction at a time, so that I can still play it
Got Descent v2 with a bunch of expansions plust the DnD boardgames to warm up with. And a bunch of Arkham Horror models. And Strange Aeons... Oh... Uhh.... It might be some time until I'm done...
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Sandy Petersen
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Rockwall
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No matter what, you should soak the figures in warm soapy water for an hour or so, then dry them off, before painting.

The aluminum-steel injection molds are slightly oiled to ease production, so you'll want to remove the film on the figures. Plus any skin oils that have accumulated due to the fact that you've been sleeping with the figures, in your bed, ever since they arrived. And if you have kids they've been carrying them around the house.

It's possible that the warm soapy water might loosen some of the glue joints - this happened to 2 out of the 72 figures we painted in Germany this summer. If this happens, the figures are REALLY easy to re-glue. They have pin-and-socket joints that click right together. A bit of super-glue and you're good. On the other hand, the figures we used in Germany were special pre-order versions that didn't use the same quality of glue in the real game, so it probably won't be an issue at all.
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