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Subject: How to Paint Plastic Miniatures rss

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Jeff Meitzler
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It seems that I am getting too many games with plastic unpainted miniatures.

Is there an article or website that you can post a link to that will walk me through the process of painting miniatures.

I am very unartistic and have never done it before so I need something like "painting miniatures for dummies". .

Should I even try or is this a disaster in the making.

It would fill up the nights that I can't find a gamer.

Thanks for your thoughts.

jeff
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Paul DeStefano
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Experience is the key.

Your steps are:
1) remove/clip any little bits of casting flash or sprue.
2) Wash em in warm water with a touch of soap to remove oils from production that may prevent paint from adhering.
3) Prime them in a base primer that allows other paints to stay and not get rubbed off.
4) Paint.

Tips
Practice.
Clean looking minis are key.
Paint from the 'inside out', in the order you would dress. IE - Skin, shirt, jacket.
Details like weapons and belts last
A mini always looks suddenly much better when the base is painted.

Advanced stuff will include drybrushing and washing. Don't worry yet, especially for 'tabletop play' quality minis.

Its a wonderful hobby.

The techniques are the same as for metal minis. But start on 3-5 scrap ones just to learn. There's plenty of nice free sites to help you along.
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jeremy cobert
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here is a place that fisrt taught me
http://www.paintingclinic.com/

also if you want an easy way to paintand get good results try this.
http://www.drunkdwarves.com/pages/artttgttcdipping.html
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Brian Morris
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Call around to a few of your local game/hobby shops. You might find one or two that teach painting of miniatures. My FLGS actually has a section of it's game room set aside for miniature painters and they have a painting night once a week.
 
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zippy grey wedge owner
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You could get some pointers from here:
http://us.games-workshop.com/games/warhammer/painting/begin_...

Please note I'm not promoting/advertising them, and no challenge is intended to the status of their copyrighted material or any other trademarks. I just like the detailed instructions accompanied by pics. If you want more info, follow the "More..." link under "Painting & modelling" section on left bar. You can find things like "Drybrushing" and "Undercoat" [under "Techniques"].
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Ben Penner
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All of these are good tips. The only thing that I would say is to buy a few random plastic minis that you can practice on. Get the feel of it before you start on the actual game pieces.
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Mike Welker
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Here is one unique step between the cleaning stage and the primer stage--but do experiment with it and see how you like it.

Get a very fine grain sand, mix with white glue and water, getting a consistency that would dry extremely thin. Once you have the mix right, dunk the plastic mini in the mix. Then let dry. This method works too: paint the fig with the water-glue mix and then add the dose of fine sand all over.

The dried piece has a very fine texture, but this method works best if you use the finest sands such as from the craft sand-painting kits. The result makes for a paintable mini without the typical problems of plastic stripping.

 
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Phillip Heaton
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One thing you'll want to do is coat your miniature, especially parts the flex like spears, swords or rifles. There are some special coatings you can buy, but white glue (Elmers) works well. The paint will adhere to the glue and flex instead of crack when the part is bent.

As far as dipping goes, I find it pretty simple. After you have done your basic painting (you don't need to ink it, or even dry brush it) you just dip the figure into Min Wax; the lighter shades work best for me. Brush the figure lightly in the areas that should stand out (sort of like dry brushing without the paint) and let it dry (be warned that it will take a lot of time to dry completely). After it is dry, spray it with a clear acrylic to protect the paint job; one that isn't glossy works best.
 
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Rob Robinson
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My last batch of mini's can (hopefully) be found here:

http://www.boardgamegeek.com/browser.php?itemtype=image&sort...

Alternatively Sort to the latest Images in Zombie Plague.

I use a very quick method...

1. use matt black car spray as a primer. Line the lot up and spray them as a whole. Immediately the deep recesses are created & classed as shadowed areas.

2. Paint in the base (darkest) colours for each item of clothing or area, leaving the deep areas untouched black.

3. Dry brush raised areas with a lighter hue (usually I just add white) of the same colour.

4. Dry brush an even lighter shade (nearly white) to peaked and outer edges.

5. If I can be bothered, paint a thin black line around each item of clothing or accessory at the join. i.e. Necklace, bracelet, arm cuffs, belt etc.

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J. Green
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A good friend of mine who paints a lot of plastic minis showed me his secret weapon: 3M Plastic Primer paint. It's specifically designed to prime plastic and is slightly elastic so your paint won't chip or crack if the piece bends a little. I think you can get it in any home improvement or paint store.
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Marc B.
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I did a quick intro using my Shadows over Camelot painting to explain what I use.

http://www.efxweb.com/soc/

It's really not hard but does take some practice. Use dollar-a-bag army men or something to practice techniques. Everything I use can be purchased at any large department chain. aka wal-mart etc.

arrrh
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Jeremy Carlson
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I do about the same thing as Geosphere does, only at the end I use a gloss coat (you can use matte, but I prefer shiny guys). I have not had any problems with paint chipping or coming off, once the seal coat is on. For Primer and gloss coat I use Games Workshop stuff. For paint I am loving the Adiken paint. Unfortunately they are freakin' discontinued, but the dropper bottle makes me use way less paint, cause I don't spill anymore.

I am curious why the above person uses a Black primer, and then dry brushes white on. What does the black do if you are just covering it in white? Curious, cause I am always looking to improve.

One thing I would recommend is to do TWO thin coats of primer. This way you avoid getting too much paint in certain areas, and you don't lose the detail

Also, for shading, I use a black ink, waaaaaay watered down, and brush it into the creases and folds and such. Other areas of color, I dry brush on a small amount of white on the area. You need a paper towel to brush on to get most of the paint off first, then apply it to the highlight area lightly. For darker color areas, I add a small amount of black to the color and blend it in. You pretty much have to do this kind of shading while the paint is wet and use a couple of brushes to get the colors to blend.

I'm also starting to use color to color gradients, which is very hard. Takes a lot of practice.

Here is a link to my navia dratp figures I've painted...scroll to the bottom.
http://www.jc-designs.net/navia/
 
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Rob Robinson
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Dry brushing white over black will leave all the recesses black. colours that are painted over white are generally brighter.
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Rob Robinson
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Some more miniatures painted by me:

http://www.boardgamegeek.com/fullimage/91246
 
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Bill Norton
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OK, I have no desire to paint my minis for looks.

I do have a desire to be able to easily tell apart the minis in "War of the ring"

So what I want is to paint each army a different color/shade. But just one color or shade.

Now what is the best/cheapest/quickest/easiest way to do this.

Again, I am going for practicality here.

Will a can of spray paint work?(I have never painted. Ever.)

 
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Rob Robinson
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Spray painting them is easy. Line them all up and fasten them down with double sided or blu-tac. spray a very thin/fine coat two or three times rather than a single thick coat which will flood out all the deatail.
 
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Marc B.
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bnorton916 wrote:
OK, I have no desire to paint my minis for looks.

I do have a desire to be able to easily tell apart the minis in "War of the ring"

So what I want is to paint each army a different color/shade. But just one color or shade.

Now what is the best/cheapest/quickest/easiest way to do this.

Again, I am going for practicality here.

Will a can of spray paint work?(I have never painted. Ever.)



You could use different color spray primers (black, brown, gray. etc)

Wash them first in mild soap and water and allow to dry well.
Use a cardboard box for each army. Use sticky-tack (stuff that's like
sillyputty to stick stuff to walls) to stick the figures on the boxes.
give them two light coats (leaving sufficient dry time between). Be sure to maintain the proper distance (stated on can) when spraying to avoid
drippy runny paint. Also, when spraying, do it in an area that wouldnt matter about overspray because you want overspray. In other words, as you make your spray passes, do it at an even speed and start and end your spray beyond the minis. Dont ever stop or start spraying while aiming directly at the minis. Be sure to use good lighting and look at them from multiple angles to look for areas the paint isnt reaching (under arms, chins, etc).

Let the second coat dry and then to protects them spray them with a clear matte finish acrylic spray sealer (in the craft department at walmart). 2 light coats is better. Be sure to look for non-yellowing on the cans.

I have to ask though, aren't the armies in WOTR different colors enough? or is it a matter of colors too close in shade?
 
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Magnus
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No, spraypaint will not work. It will get everywhere, leave you with uneven marks and hide a bunch of details.

I'm not a great painter like some of the folks on here. I paint my own minis up to "table-top ready". That is, they look better than plain, but you're not afraid to touch them with your hands.

What you want is the "slop n go" finish. All you have to do is go to a craft store or a hobby store and pick up a painting kit. I use Testor's paint, and you can get coupons or a sale to get 8 colours of paint, some thinner, and a few brushes for about $10. They'll sell it as a "classic car finish" or "military vehicles" kit. It's in the modelling section.

It's more paint than you'll ever want. If you want something shinier like a gold or silver, you can buy those seperately.

You'll also want to go to your local game store and buy a few cheap DnD minatures commons. ($1 each) It doesn't matter what you buy. Practice on the cheap minis. When you're done, throw them away.

Hold the brush like a pen. Get just a small amount of paint on the brush. When I paint, I use a bamboo skewer (100 / $1) to stir the paint and I use the paint from the skewer which is on a disposable mat. Use a light touch, and remember that if you make a mistake, you can either paint over it or clean up the paint.

You should probably clean the figs before you paint them. It will make it easier to paint. You can skip priming if you just want a quick job.

Try painting the hair / helmets / shields / armour. If you're just trying to tell the squads apart, that's probably enough. Let the default plastic colour suffice for the skin / base / etc.

You don't have to worry about going over the edges too much - you will find that the texturing on the figs will guide the brush.

Don't forget to clean up afterwards using either soap and water or thinner, depending on what paint you bought.

Alternatively, you could get a jiffy marker and put a black dot on the base of some of the figures. That way you can quickly ID the critters you want. It's not pretty but it will be fast.
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Rob Robinson
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themagni wrote:
No, spraypaint will not work. It will get everywhere, leave you with uneven marks and hide a bunch of details.


I can't even be bothered to argue.
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Arcadian Del Sol
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The problem with spray painting isnt the medium; its the artist. Too many people think spray painting works like this: hold item to be painted directly in front of the nozzle. Press nozzle and count to twenty. Shake target until it stops dripping. Scrub your hands with sandpaper.


This is the proper method:

Hold the target item ONE FOOT AWAY from the nozzle. Aim the paint OFF TO THE SIDE of the target item about 3 inches away from it. As the paint sprays, fan the paint can across the target item QUICKLY. To get a full coat of paint, you have to repeat this process at least six or seven times. Scrub your hands with sandpaper.
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Magnus
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zombiegod wrote:
themagni wrote:
No, spraypaint will not work. It will get everywhere, leave you with uneven marks and hide a bunch of details.


I can't even be bothered to argue.


He said he's never painted before. Ever.

The odds of spraypaint failure are high.
 
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Bill Norton
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So I still have no idea which way is the best. shake

Oh well thanks for the help.
 
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Jeremy Carlson
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Even if you just want the fig 1 color, you still have to do it right to make it look good.

Clean the fig.
Use primer in 2-3 thin coats (let them dry obviously in between coats)
Pick a color and paint the fig.
I would then seal coat it with a gloss or matte coat.

That is the best way to do it.
If you don't care about quality, then get the can of spray paint and go.
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Michael Crownhart
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jeremycobert wrote:
here is a place that fisrt taught me
http://www.paintingclinic.com/

also if you want an easy way to paintand get good results try this.
http://www.drunkdwarves.com/pages/artttgttcdipping.html

BAD LINKS
 
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Dan Williams
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AzRedShoe wrote:
shake
jeremycobert wrote:
here is a place that fisrt taught me
http://www.paintingclinic.com/

also if you want an easy way to paintand get good results try this.
http://www.drunkdwarves.com/pages/artttgttcdipping.html

BAD LINKS


That's probably because the thread is over a decade old...
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