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Subject: Questions after reading the rules rss

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Andrew Prizzi
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West Newton
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Friedrich looks like a very cool game. Last night I read through the rules that are posted in the files section here and came up with a few questions for those of you who have actually own/played the game.

1. In section 5 of the rules "It is highly recommended to write down conquered objectives or them, e.g. with the coat of arms". I didn't see any sort of control markers on the list of components. Are the any that come with the game or do you have to make your own? Is keeping track of who captured what an issue during gameplay if you don't use some sort of marker?

2. Also in section 5 of the rules "No unfair conduct. You are not allowed to occupy the objective of an ally by simply sitting on it (or to block the way intentionally to interfere with a winning move)." Are you allowed to occupy someone else's objective if they aren't within range to take it at the time? Can you "unintentionally" interfere with someone else's move? I guess I just don't understand what the rules are trying to say here- the Non-Prussian players are all on the same "team" to an extent but are also competing with each other. This rule basically sounds like it's saying "play nice", but leaves some wiggle room on what is and isn't legal. Am I reading into this too much? Again, is this an issue that has come up in anyone's playing of the game?

3. In section 11 and section 2 it says to put the card of fate card on the bottom of the deck. Ok, I understand that. It also says the reason for doing this is so nobody knows when the clock of fate will run out. I don't get that. There's a known number of cards in the deck- it would seem pretty simple to keep track of how many cards have been drawn. Subract the cards drawn from the cards in the deck and you know how many are left. Basically, this one just really confused me. Can anybody explain it?

There were a couple other spots where the rules were a bit confusing at first, but once you read through again make much more sense. I got the impression that English is not the author's first language. To that, I'd have to say- he did a lot better job writing game rules in a 2nd language than I could!!!

Thanks for the help.
 
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richard sivel
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1.) The second edition INCLUDES control markers. You can read the 2nd ed. rules on http://www.histogame.de/download.html
(1st ed. had a postcard, so that control markers could be produced by the players)

2.) The "no-unfair-conduct" rule is for situations where gamey tactics might come up. Suppose player is 1 move before victory. Player B could now simply move on the last free objective of palyer A (so that he cannot conquer it). The rule forbids this. -- The rule is quite freely worded by intention: Specifying situations would be endless and create 100 of rule holes. --- As the rule is, i strongly believe that players can easily understand what an unfair move is ... Basic idea: If the moving player B has a real incentive to move on the city, it is not unfair. If the only incentive is to block the city to interfere with a winning move, it is unfair.

3.) Putting the card underneath the deck might sound "weird" (as johan wrote), since you can keep track of the turns of course .. But in effect, the rule is not weird !!!! -- I highly recommend to play the game with this rule (which implicitly says that you are not allowed to keep track with any physical method (writing, putting things aside to count, etc.) ... After a while, your memory will inevitably fail, and you have no idea whether 17 or 19 turns have passed by ... So, the last turns are somehow hidden in the "dust of your memory" (sorry, that i cannot express it better in english )


p.s.: English is indeed not my first language... Thank you for your nice words on my school- and rules-reading-english :-) ... The 2nd ed. rules have been reworded by bowen simmons from simmons games ... The english should be better now
 
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Andrew Prizzi
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Thank you for the reply Richard. I looked at the website for ordering control markers and English rules for use with the 1st edition. Is there anywhere to order these from in the United States in order to avoid paying for shipping across the ocean? Thanks again. Right now my gaming budget is pretty low (just bought War of the Ring and Twilight Imperium) but I'm definitely adding this to my "to get list" and may have to cave in and get it for Christmas.
 
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Stephen Meyers
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Frederick
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Just a suggestion:

I use tinted translucent pebbles/stones
corresponding to the same colors as the country's generals
ie red is it for France? and so forth!

blue, light blue, white etc.

works great! they can be bought at game stores as markers

or

very available in a great variety of tints and colors
as stones for vases etc at craft stores such as Michaels, Moores
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richard sivel
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dan,

1st edition is sold out, so if you purchase friedrich, there is no need in ordering control markers ...

Beside that, the markers you can produce from the postcard in 1st edition work really fine ...

You can also go onto histogame's download section where you can find the new set of control markers...

richard
 
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Ralph H. Anderson
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I found some very nice small wooden blocks with adhesive on them that are just the right size for the counters cut out from the postcards. I use them for first objective markers and the plain counters for the secondary objectives. Makes things a lot clearer. I posted something in the game aids about this. (The wooden blocks are scrabble pieces for scrapbooks. The adhesive on the back is very strong)

Forgot to add - this is a very cool game. It is our favorite. Just wish we got to play it more often!
 
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Was George Orwell an Optimist?
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I've got the 1st edition, which had the postcard that you cut up to use for control markers. Only took a couple of minutes with scissors, and they are just fine. Very bright and colorful, and just the right size.
 
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Andrew Prizzi
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Thanks for the replies. I understand the 1st edition is out of print, but I do much of my game shopping either on ebay or here on bgg so I wanted to be clear on the difference in the 2 editions. The differences don't sound like a big deal to me at all, so I'll get whatever version I can find a good deal on somewhere. The game looks great...a wargame I can rope (er I mean invite) my eurogaming friends into MUWHAHAHAHAHHA
 
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richard sivel
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dan,

the detailed differences between 1st and 2nd edition are explained at

http://www.histogame.de/e_friedrich.html

(click on the blinking sentence)
 
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Mark Christopher
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In the wonderful game, Bonaparte at Marengo, this is how to get nasty Frenchies out of a village.
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prizziap wrote:
Thanks for the replies. I understand the 1st edition is out of print, but I do much of my game shopping either on ebay or here on bgg so I wanted to be clear on the difference in the 2 editions. The differences don't sound like a big deal to me at all, so I'll get whatever version I can find a good deal on somewhere. The game looks great...a wargame I can rope (er I mean invite) my eurogaming friends into MUWHAHAHAHAHHA


You're absolutely right, Dan; the differences in the editions are minimal, so you can't go wrong with whichever edition you choose. And yes, Friedrich seems to go over well with eurogame players.
 
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Alpha Mastrano
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markus_kt wrote:
prizziap wrote:
Thanks for the replies. I understand the 1st edition is out of print, but I do much of my game shopping either on ebay or here on bgg so I wanted to be clear on the difference in the 2 editions. The differences don't sound like a big deal to me at all, so I'll get whatever version I can find a good deal on somewhere. The game looks great...a wargame I can rope (er I mean invite) my eurogaming friends into MUWHAHAHAHAHHA


You're absolutely right, Dan; the differences in the editions are minimal, so you can't go wrong with whichever edition you choose. And yes, Friedrich seems to go over well with eurogame players.


...and non-gamers, as well! Try it! laugh
 
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