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Subject: Newbie assembly question(s) rss

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Jonahdel
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So, while waiting for the game, I'm assembling the tools that I'll need to build the minis.

So far, I have the following:

1. X-acto Knife, Small clippers,
2. el-cheapo air brush that is good enough, Paint brushes
3. Painting/Cutting booth.

You might notice two (maybe 3) important things that are missing.

1. Superglue or Plastic cement
2. Paint
3. Green stuff

My questions are:

1. Superglue or Plastic Cement?
- I have a lot of experience with supergluing things that should not be superglued and it ends up with that white hue at the end, looks ugly. Is there a superglue that doesnt end up with this?
- A friend recommended Testor's, how much of that do I need if go the plastic cement way?
2. Paint.
- Same friend suggested either Tamiya or Citadel. What are your thoughts?
3. After researching, Green stuff appears to be basic epoxy.
- I've worked with epoxy before on airplane parts. How hard/easy is it to work with and would you recommend it to a guy who has never assembled minis before aside from the occasional gunpla?

Thanks!
 
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Team Ski
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1. Plastic cement all the way! Testers in the black jar is more than enough.

2. Citadel or any equivalent miniatures acrylic paint will do. Do not settle for acrylics found at your local AC Moore!

3. I don't bother filling cracks.....

-Ski
 
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Stephanie Gustafsson
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TamiyA if you intend to airbrush. Citadel is crap in airbrushed and does not respond well to acrylic airbrush thinner or airbrush cleaner. It turns to lumpy glue.
 
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Jonahdel
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Lanfearious wrote:
TamiyA if you intend to airbrush. Citadel is crap in airbrushed and does not respond well to acrylic airbrush thinner or airbrush cleaner. It turns to lumpy glue.


I intend to airbrush the black primer. As for painting the details in, manual brush will be my go to since I have no experience with airbrushing fine details yet.

That being said, I'm practicing on my Descent 2.0 minis at the moment.

So, if I get the hang of airbrushing fine details, I should go Tamiya?
If I'm going brush, go Citadel?
 
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Stephanie Gustafsson
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Xairen wrote:
Lanfearious wrote:
TamiyA if you intend to airbrush. Citadel is crap in airbrushed and does not respond well to acrylic airbrush thinner or airbrush cleaner. It turns to lumpy glue.


I intend to airbrush the black primer. As for painting the details in, manual brush will be my go to since I have no experience with airbrushing fine details yet.

That being said, I'm practicing on my Descent 2.0 minis at the moment.

So, if I get the hang of airbrushing fine details, I should go Tamiya?
If I'm going brush, go Citadel?


If you are going to airbrush sections of colors and base colors use tamiya. Citadel is alright for manual painting but it dries up in the pots quickly. Both will need thinning with drying retarder and distillers water for brush use.
 
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Jonahdel
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Teamski wrote:

3. I don't bother filling cracks.....

-Ski


Personal choice or is it not that noticeable anyway?

Lanfearious wrote:

If you are going to airbrush sections of colors and base colors use tamiya. Citadel is alright for manual painting but it dries up in the pots quickly. Both will need thinning with drying retarder and distillers water for brush use.


Thank you for the tip! I think I'll go full Tamiya, cheaper option with almost similar quality (as far as I've read)
 
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Stephanie Gustafsson
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I think it's personal choice. Citadel liquid green stuff is alright if you are not used to filling cracks or tamiya UV putty it great. You will need to sand after filling. I don't fill usually on the figures but I might for the monsters.
 
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Fuki Fino
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Xairen wrote:

My questions are:

1. Superglue or Plastic Cement?
- I have a lot of experience with supergluing things that should not be superglued and it ends up with that white hue at the end, looks ugly. Is there a superglue that doesnt end up with this?
- A friend recommended Testor's, how much of that do I need if go the plastic cement way?
2. Paint.
- Same friend suggested either Tamiya or Citadel. What are your thoughts?
3. After researching, Green stuff appears to be basic epoxy.
- I've worked with epoxy before on airplane parts. How hard/easy is it to work with and would you recommend it to a guy who has never assembled minis before aside from the occasional gunpla?

Thanks!


1.) Plastic cement. I'm not new to model assembly, but new to plastic kits like this and I will say using plastic cement is a nice change. I use this Testors glue but don't apply it directly unless it's a large part. It's very liquidy and easy to over apply. Instead I apply to a toothpick and use that to control how much I put on the model.

2.) Paint is largely a matter of choice. I've been painting minis for years and I still try lots of different brands. I'm a fan of P3 paints and Vallejo, but I have Reaper, older Citadel and other random paints in my collection. I use Vallejo Surface Primer in my airbrush for priming (and it brushes on really nicely too for those days you don't want to/can't set up the airbrush).

For what it's worth, you can use most acrylic paints (that are meant for minis) in the airbrush if you thin them properly. (And of course Vallejo makes a couple of airbrush ready lines also).

3.) Green stuff (or Kneadatite) is pretty easy to work with. It's a 2 part epoxy putty with a decently long dry time. I use either a metal sculpting tool or a rubber clay shaper and some water to smooth it out/blend it in for gap filling/sculpting.
 
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Christopher Handley
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Personal choices here.

Paints: Vallejo, P3, Scale 75. All are much better than GW paints, and also have a long shelf life. GW paint pots are not life they were back in the 90s (which you can still get - they are called Coat d'arms - made by HMG for GW, HMG being a Manchester company that formulates Privateer Press' P3 range).

Vallejo do a range of airbursh ready paints, and airbrush ready primers. Their primers, and thinners and cleaners are great. GW sprays are not primers.

Glue: Humbrol thin brush on plastic glue. For things needing a faster fix, use Army Painter super glue, and spray on super glue accelerator.

Putties: Green stuff is fine for working larger gaps. Vallejo do a liquid putty that is water soluble, and so can be painted into the fine gaps and filed to smooth off surfaces. To sculpt putty use tools, where you dip the points in Vaseline to allow a smoother application.
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Joseph Nudi
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Xairen wrote:
Lanfearious wrote:
TamiyA if you intend to airbrush. Citadel is crap in airbrushed and does not respond well to acrylic airbrush thinner or airbrush cleaner. It turns to lumpy glue.


I intend to airbrush the black primer. As for painting the details in, manual brush will be my go to since I have no experience with airbrushing fine details yet.

That being said, I'm practicing on my Descent 2.0 minis at the moment.

So, if I get the hang of airbrushing fine details, I should go Tamiya?
If I'm going brush, go Citadel?


I'm also a relative newbie to painting. One thing that I can absolutely say is this...if you're going citadel THIN them out a lot. You can find methods with chemicals and water online, but you'll lose a lot of detail if you try to drop the paint from the pot to the brush and directly onto the miniatures.

If you want to airbrush, I'd follow more experienced folk's recommendations, but I'm now using Minitaire's airbrush line. Vallejo has great reviews as well. Citadel is nearly impossible to thin en masse for the airbrush and some of the metals and otherwise may be impossible to run through your brush without clogging (this from experience). You might be able to thin and use each time with some care, but I thinned all of my pots after finding a decent mixture with airbrush medium and I still don't like the results.

With minis this small, I've also started going with my least precise nozzle at 0.3 or 0.4 (I forget), forsaking my 0.15 and 0.2 needles. The difference isn't that noticeable to me and I clog a lot less frequently.
 
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Adam Canning
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Xairen wrote:
So, if I get the hang of airbrushing fine details, I should go Tamiya?


I have a preference for Vallejo Air over Tamiya,myself.
 
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