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Subject: Painting the figures... rss

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Matt Keyes
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Looking at roberious' paint jobs in the images, i am completely floored (esp. since he claims one of them was his first mini painting). i'm a newbie painter, but i'm not seeing results like these.

Are these figures easy to paint? Also, how large are they... 28mm? Do they come with much extra flash, etc., or are they pretty clean?

As a newbie painter, i'm not a stranger to TMP, etc., but if anyone also has tips in terms of how to get to quality like the ones in the image gallery for Hybrid, i'd appreciate it.
 
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Universal Head
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I wouldn't recommend Hybrid figures for newbie experimenting - they really are for experienced painters. There's quite a bit of assembly involved, the pieces are very fine and fragile and need careful pinning with assembly, there's detailed clean up involved - it's a job that requires figure assembly and painting experience all round. And they ain't cheap!

Much better to experiment on some cheap GW plastic figures and get your chops happening first!

I've been painting figures for 20+ years and I found them fiddly and tricky.
 
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Scott Mellon
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Pick up a few cheap figs to try out. Then have at them. The quality of the Rackham mini's is so good, you'll try harder, At least that's how it went for me.

For tips on painting try Brushthralls and Dr. Faust's Painting Clinic. They're two great sites to pick up pointers.


Thare are usually painting tips for specific models in Cry Havok (Rackham) supplement, and White Dwarf (Games Workshop) and No Quarter (Warmachine) Magazines. While they won't help you to paint your model specifically, they've got a lot of step by step pics so you can see how each phase of the painting goes.
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Matt Keyes
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Thanks for the tip... looks like i'm going to save my money. i'm not afraid of a little bit of assembly, but, as i haven't done any pinning, etc., i'm not wanting to try it out on such an expensive set. Supergluing arms to torsos and the like i can do, but i think this would be too much.

Thanks again!

p.s. are all the Confrontation minis the same way - i.e. detailed assembly, cleanup, etc.?
 
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Universal Head
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Just to be clear - pinning is not absolutely essential, but since we're talking fine bits like arms to torsos here, I think it's very important. And they're such thin pieces that it's a tricky operation. And the large beastie is made up of several pieces that fit together in a relatively complex way.

Even with pinning, I've had an arm fall off on one occasion!

Some might disagree that pinning is necessary, but I think it was.

My main point is, given the price of the figures, it's better to get a bit up to speed with cheaper figures.

Rackham figures tend to be very detailed, but I can't speak for the entire range. They are beautiful figures though.
 
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Vincent
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I have found that the gel form of cyanoacrylate glue renders pinning completely unnecessary. That stuff is extremely powerful.
 
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Patrick Stangier
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Repeating what others have said Rackham minis are very detailed. They also tend to be very clean (no or little flash). Nearly all of them also need assembly.
As such they are not figures that I would suggest to a beginner.
I would follow the advice already given and do a few test runs with cheaper figures.

I am not an expert painter myself, but here are some basic tips I can offer:

Take your time, the figures are not going to run away.

3 thin coats of paint are better than 1 thick coat. The most common mistake new painters make is applying the paint too thick.

When using superglue remember that less is often more. A small drop will hold parts together better than a large amount could ever do.

And if all else fails rest savely knowing that acetone can easily remove acrylic paints from metal figures.
 
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oystein eker
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No doubt a beginner can replace experience with being more patient and take your time. It is not that difficult to build and paint.

Use superglue and epoxy.

Most important is to fill the gaps between glued parts and use spray primer. I guess a beginner may try to skip this point - but you MUST do it!

Glue parts with superglue.
Fill in the gap by building up layers of thick epoxy glue. Use a toothpick. Trim figure with a sharp knife.

Spray primer.

Start to paint inner parts of figure with basic color. Not necessary to be careful at this point. Painting over details and other parts is OK.

Let it dry. Start with a new figure while you are waiting.

Be much more careful when painting outer parts - fixing inner painting with correct lines.

Skin - Mix white with a touch of yellow. Add an extremely very small part red. Painting a face will make or break a figure. Take your time at this point. Add a small touch of red at lips and cheek. Small touch of whiter shade at forehead -nosetip -chin. You may want to use a toothpick as brush at this point.

Add shadow and light. Mix basic color with a small dash blue/black. Paint parts of figure in shadow such as arm pit and creases in clothing. You may use wet paint to let it flow a bit.

Mix basic color with white or lighter version of basic color. Paint parts in light (ie shoulders) with a wet brush. Let it blend in with basic color.

Important -quick and magic touch of black wash. Dilute black paint until it is almost gray water. Wash the figure with a wet brush. Let it flow in between details and fill thin lines. If it is too much just wipe carefully with a wet tissue. Your biggest wow factor in paintjob.

Paint other details such as buttons. Add some light blue touches to shining metal such as sword.

White highlight. Dry brush a few protruding details with white. Edge of a cap. Maybe a shoulder. Tip of a weapon. But - Do not overdo it. Better with less highlight.

That`s it!!!






Example:

Inner parts are green. Working out with blue -brown -hair -shoulder armor.

Dark blue paint in shadow. Lighter blue where light comes in. Darker brown in creases.

Note a lot of effort put in painting faces. Highlighting with light tan.

Black wash brings details to face - stomach - weapon.

Note white dry brush highlight used sparingly on left figure. A few white stripes in the hair. Tip of shoulder armor. Edge of sword.

Edit with reference to Universal Head post below

It is not my work pictured. It is done by a more talented painter than me. I borrowed it to illustrate my paint sequence.

Sorry for any inconvience.




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Universal Head
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Actually there's quite a bit of advice in that last post I don't agree with as a mini painter of 25 years experience, but there you go. Different methods for different people.

I suggest the beginner's best bet is to visit some of the many excellent miniature painting advice websites on the net. And, like most things, there really is no substitute for practice, which I'd personally prefer to do on cheaper figures than Hybrid ones!
 
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oystein eker
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I am very happy kiss with my Hybrid figs using method above. (I added microballoons to epoxy -but do not think it is necessary). They are on par with figs pictured here at BGG. Have just some experience weathering HO train and painted HeroQuest and my BattleCry figs.

A beginner may not be a winner in a miniature paint contest with his Hybrid figs- but certainly he will get a high wow -gasp factor among fellow players. My point it is not necessary to drop a purchase of Hybrid if you are a beginner. It is enough to be dedicated and willing to put time and patience into the game (a week or two) prior to play. That is why I made this short list in painting sequence.

And as you said - a beginner must of course visit some of the excellent websites dedicated to this art....
 
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Universal Head
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I apologise - I've seen that work before and it's very good indeed - I thought they were done by Roberious. Surely you didn't paint these as a beginner? If so you're very talented.

There just a few things that I thought needed clarification if a beginner was reading this:
- filling gaps is best done with a modelling putty such as 'green stuff' rather than epoxy glue.
- shadowing and highlighting is sometimes done best with a particular colour rather than just back/blue or white. eg a different effect is given if highlighting green with yellow.
- I think the black wash could result in a bit of a disaster for a beginner, so to the white drybrush.

Anyway, each to their own methods! Maybe I'm just stuck in my old ways!
 
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oystein eker
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Ooops - Please do not misunderstand.

I have no pictures of my work. I just borrowed the picture to make an example of how I would do the paint sequence. If I had a good photo of my own work I would of course used that.

Yes they are very good. Even better than my paintwork to be honest. A very talented painter with much more experience than me.

It is my turn to apologize to all if they think this my work. But it is not. If the owner of the picture want to delete my link - I will gladly do it.

By the way:
Would like to thank you for all your work you have done for Hybrid communinty.

Edit:

I will try your advice of making shadow paint on my next project. (ordered Keratis and Templar).

I usually mix dark blue for all shadow. If I have basic crimson red on a fig - I mix crimson red with dark blue to make shadow paint. And wash it on in several layers. But I will try your advice to add a different color.

Highlight green with yellow seems to be very good advice - thank you.

I use epoxy mixed with microballoons instead of putty filler. But waiting for starting epoxy to gel I have no problem filling the gap with no microballoons. Maybe not a perfect finish as with "green stuff" - but much stronger. It will survive hard handling by fellow Hybrid players. Finished Ambrosius I was not happy with angle of arm. Wanted to rise it much more. It took some effort and a sharp knife to break it loose - so this bonding is pretty strong.
 
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Chris Page
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I'd like to take a go at Hybrid but I'm a complete newbie to painting and assembling minis, and the descriptions above terrify me. Painting and glueing is fine, pinning and layering glue to fill gaps sounds beyond me.

Any suggestions on simpler miniatures that could be used as an alternative?

Thought for the day: If Hybrid were done with prepainted minis, like AT-43, it would conquer the universe and set other games quivering in the shadows.
 
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Chris Page
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Oh don't worry, I've got my beady eye on that one...
 
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oystein eker
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This thread started with how to try to achieve roberius`s top standard painting. - My answer was a basic painting sequence if you would give it a try.

Now this thread is turned into what is necessary to play the game.

In simplest form you can just write the name on a piece of paper with a arrow pointing front and stick it to the base. No fig needed. And you will be able to play the game 100%

A step up is to make Hybrid up to BattleLore/Memoir44/War of the Rings class in mono color:

Absolutely no pinning is necessary. Glue parts with superglue and put a drop of epoxy glue in the joint. That`s it - I promise you will be happy with the result- just a couple of minutes work. No skill needed.

Spray paint (not glossy) in one color and you will be shocked how awesome the figs look. Even the most impressive fig from BattLore will be parked in the dark. The Rackham figs in metal are so crisp and breathtaking detailed you have to see it to believe it. After priming I admired the Abberitator in a small eternity. Seeing the small stiches in the flesh - How on earth could I paint it without ruin my first impression?

Putting hours into the work and you can easily get an average paintjob done - just as seen in most of War of the Ring painted figs. Just ommit black wash and white high light - as mentioned by the veteran Universal Head.

Again - this thread started with how to paint (try to) to make your figs look just as awesome as roberius. - Not necessary to make the game playable.....
 
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Chris Page
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Thanks Oystein, maybe that's the way to do it - or perhaps, as has been suggested, just opt for tannhauser, which will scratch a similar itch.

Apologies, I see I have strayed a little off topic.
 
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oystein eker
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No need to apologize -Chris.

Your input was much needed to other players sitting on the fence to buy or not.

Thank you for giving me a chance to put some different view on Hybrid.

If someone out there pick up Hybrid and paint it up this own standard/skill, and enjoy the game - we both as done an excellent job.

Thank you Chris.
 
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Ole Andreas Hoen
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If I may add a few words of advice for the beginning painter...

I have painted minis for 20 years now, on and off, and I looove to see a well-painted figure. But with the limited time I now have for painting, being a family man, I have found "dipping" to be an amazing help in getting minis ready for gaming in no time at all.

For the uninitiated, "dipping" means painting a mini in very basic colours and then literally dipping them (or heavily brushing on) a type of stain that works as a mixture of shading and varnish in one. Sereval types of readily available stains can be used, there is one type sold specifically for use with minis, called Fanatic Army Painter. Their website http://armypainter.fanatic.dk/has more info as well as tutorials and examples.

For my gaming minis, I now use Citadels new Foundation paints, often mixed with an amount of regular white paint for a lighter shade, and lastly brush a dark dip all over - perhaps rubbing off some of the dip on certain parts (like faces etc) with a Q-tip to avoid excessive shading. The end result is quite excellent, with nice shading and good contrast between light and dark areas which (IMHO) is the key to making minis look good for tabletop gaming.

This is not meant for the painting connoisseur, but for beginners and short-on-time painters, it is a godsend.
 
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