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Subject: To glue or not rss

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Mark Taraba
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Lake in the Hills
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I would like to hear some people's opinions about this. Have many people glued them in? Has anyone regretted that decision?

I only glued the curves since the straight sections don't really have a problem and this helps with putting pieces in the box. I think it's a combination of the rail not being in its natural shape and the fact that the curves are struck more directly than the straights.

Here is what I've found with my version of PitchCar:

No glue - Rails fall out after about four cars have struck the rail and have to be put back in. Rails absorb some of the momentum of the car. All the pieces fit back in the box.

Glue - My pieces can be put back in the box but the cover sticks up about an inch higher. Rails don't fall out. Rails absorb a lot less momentum of the cars.

So the absorbing momentum part can be a blessing or a curse. After I glued mine in the cars would bounce like a pinball machine compared to not gluing. If you have one set, players might cover half the course with one hit. This also means that the game will be quicker since cars will cover more distance.
 
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Malachi Brown
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Re:To glue or not
taraba (#22313),
I'm still a little nervous about using glue on my copy (but I've only had it for two days).

I like your idea of only using glue on the curves, as that also leaves the option of not using some of the straight rails for a more difficult track.

I appreciate your pro and con assessment. It makes me more interested in trying it with mine as I think the momentum absorbing properties of the non-glued rails is not very desirable.

I am curious as to what kind of glue and method you used on your set.
 
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Rob Robinson
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Re:To glue or not
Malachi (#22316),
The best temporary way to firmly secure the rails IMHO is to use small pieces of paper to make the fit tighter. Just place the pieces alongside or around the part that needs to be more securely fitted and press firmly in. This also works to excellent effect with the trees in Through the Desert (where the tops are way too loose).
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Mark Taraba
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Re:To glue or not
Malachi (#22316),
I bought it at a hobby store and it is their own brand. However, I asked for "Zap-A-Gap" and I was told this was the same stuff. Be careful not to use too much because the glue dries white and is noticeable on the track. I had this happen on a couple and was able to scrape some of it off. Also I would suggest you premeasure so that you know where to place the rail so that it doesn't hang off the end.
 
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Malachi Brown
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Re:To glue or not
zombiegod (#22318),
I just used glue on the trees in Through the Desert. That's a good suggestion, though. I might try it to see how I feel about it before I decide to glue them in forever.
 
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Michael H
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Re:To glue or not
taraba (#22313),

I glued mine in after the first night. Then about a week later they started to pop back out. As they came out I would rough up the bottom of the rail with sandpaper and glue them down again. So far not one of the roughed up rails has come out. That is over a month, about 8 games.
 
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Oliver Brettschneider
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sticky tape
If you don't want to glue your rails to the tiles, you have another option:

simply thicken the bottom of the rails with sticky tape. use as many layers as it takes to make the rails fit. that way you can still disassemble the pieces to store them in the box, and you can always remove the sticky tape again (in case you want to sell the game).
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Malachi Brown
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Re:To glue or not
taraba (#22319),
Well, I decided to glue mine. I got Zap-A-Gap, which is just a cyanoacrylate (super glue). I did botch it on one, so there is a visible spot on the track, but the damage is only cosmetic. I think they'll stay now.
 
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Peter Marchlewitz
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Re:To glue or not
I originally used some super strong Zap-A-Gap stuff, used to bond metal and plastic miniture parts together.
I discovered that the bond provided is too rigid, and after a while it too came loose. I have since used Elmer's Squeez'N Caulk ( what a name, eh? ) which provides a great bond and is fexible enough to bend when struck and not snap out.
So far, it is working great!
By the way, it is possible to have all rails permanently glued in place and have the pieces sit in the box with less than an inch of the box lid off ( more like half an inch for all you non metric types.
 
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Mark Taraba
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Re:To glue or not
Palpatine (#22562),

I see your other article about this. You say that you used 7-8 drops of glue for the whole section of track. I ran a bead the whole length of the track. On some tracks I doubled back at a rapid pace to push the glue around a little. I'll see if these start to pop out. About how many playing until they popped out?
 
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Peter Marchlewitz
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Re:To glue or not
taraba (#22595),


It was about three or four plays before they started popping out. Especialy when the disks were flicked hard and they struck the edge of the rails dead on ( in other words a lousy shot! )
You may not run into that problem if you used tons of it like you suggested. Using only a few drops may not have provided enough bonding surface. Using this caulking stuff seems to have done a great job.
 
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Geo
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Re:To glue or not
Palpatine (#22628),

I had the same problem with rails popping out constantly during my first 2-3 games.

Now i setup the game 1-2 hours before we start playing and place the rails so that they *always* curve in the same direction.

The popping out effect is now minimal (a rail may pop up after 2-3 continous games for example).
 
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Rob Hayward
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Re:To glue or not
taraba (#22313),
Pitch Car
As others have said it is mainly the curves that pop out. I tried PVA glue but that only lasted a couple of games, then UHU which wasn't much better and now I use evo-stick (an impact adhesive) which has yet to fall out but has not had much play since. I glue the complete rail as the groove is so shallow it needs as much grip as possible.

A friend with Carabande has no problems as the grooves are deeper.
 
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Jesse Miller
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Re:To glue or not
taraba (#22313),

I tried pounding the rails in with the heel of my hand, using a t-shirt as a cushion. This seems to have done the trick, and no rails popped out during our game last Sunday.
 
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Greg Pool
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Re:To glue or not
yossarians (#27104),

Yep...pounding works great. We use The Zamboni (a hammer) as course maintenance between games, and the popping of curves is not an issue.
 
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Ben Bodrero
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I used a rubber mallet. That was pretty effective for me.
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Slovakia Steph
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taraba wrote:
Glue - My pieces can be put back in the box but the cover sticks up about an inch higher. Rails don't fall out. Rails absorb a lot less momentum of the cars.


My lid only sticks up less than a centimeter after we've put all the pieces (including rails) in the box.
 
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Sean Gregory
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I am such a poor handyman that I would almost surely screw up even glue, but that being said, I like that the rails pop out sometimes when cars bounce into them. (It is a pain-in-the-ass when they just pop out for no reason.)

Maybe people should not be slamming their discs into the rails with such a force?
 
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Austin Norris

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I don't really see a reason to glue the rails in. I like being able to fit them in the original boxes, and my friends and I play Ninja Warrior(Sasuke) style. For those of you who don't know what that is, well its a hardcore japanese obsticle course where even if the course fails on you, there are no do overs you just lose.
 
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Ben Bodrero
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taraba wrote:
My pieces can be put back in the box but the cover sticks up about an inch higher.


I figured out how to keep the rails in AND fit everything back in the box. Check out www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/51641.
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