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As a preamble, I have tried to paint 25mm minis repeatedly, and I gain no joy from this. I really dislike painting minis.

However, struck by a wave of nostalgia, and thinking it'd be nice to be able to adapt them to the latest rules set on a whim and play in some store somewhere, I thought I'd like to paint my force of old GW Space Marines with a paint job that is easy, but doesn't totally suck.

I'm looking for something along the lines of "spraypaint them with A, then drybrush the guns and gear with B and C, and then flock the bases." I just have no idea what paints I should use for those steps, or if there's an even smarter way to do this.

Any and all advice is appreciated.
 
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Jon New
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There is a pretty quick painting guide at the Battle for Macragge website -

http://macragge.uk.games-workshop.com/painting/default.htm

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Gabe Alvaro
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I know next to nothing about painting minis, but your question created a funny image for me. This is probably counter to the average geek m.o., but would it help to get like 3 or 4 people to help you and do it assembly line style?
 
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You already have the right idea... There are several uni-color or dual-color Space Marine chapters. Spray paint the entire thing with your choice of spray paint (I use the generic $1 Walmart can), paint/drybrush whatever features you deem interesting (for me, it is the eyes, Imperium eagle and gun barrel), 'dip' the entire thing, touch up any necessary areas, and then flock the base.

You can find a dipping tutorial at:
http://s1161342.fmnsedu.rug.nl/dipping.htm

The total time per miniature is approximately 10-15 minutes. The end result will not win you any awards, but the process does let you get those space marines on the table quickly.
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Brad Wagnon
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A slightly more detailed way to get a decent looking fig with minimal time investment.

1. Spray the fig in black primer.

2. Drybrush the entire fig with white paint.

3. Paint the areas of the figure that you want to have an actual color with a 50/50 paint/water mix.

4. Drybrush the metallic details.

5. Use wash where you want to deepen shadows or seperate details between details that may not be as distinct as you want.

6. Final drybrush on anything that still needs it.

7. Flock the base

8. Clearcoat the figure.

Also, assembly-line the figures. Paint similar figures in batches. I personally like to do about 6 at a time. Not too monotonous, but you can repeat the same step on several different figures at a time.

Hope that helps.

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Russ Williams
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Years ago a college roommate told me that in high school he painted a bunch of D&D mummies and skeletons by just dipping them into the white paint... and they did not look great.
 
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Brad Fuller
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funny we have actually done an assembly line before, my friend needed his army painted for a tournement
 
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Mark McEvoy
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CluelessNewbie wrote:
You already have the right idea... There are several uni-color or dual-color Space Marine chapters. Spray paint the entire thing with your choice of spray paint (I use the generic $1 Walmart can)


On this topic... when you spraypaint minis... how do you make the minis stop smelling like paint? I did a first-coat-spray of some minis of mine, like, two weeks ago, and they still smell strongly of paint (like, not just faintly - like, enough that you feel the fumes). I have left them out in the open in my garage and it really hasn't helped much. Will they ever stop smelling like paint?
 
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CluelessNewbie wrote:

You can find a dipping tutorial at:
http://s1161342.fmnsedu.rug.nl/dipping.htm

The total time per miniature is approximately 10-15 minutes. The end result will not win you any awards, but the process does let you get those space marines on the table quickly.


Interesting. I hadn't heard of dipping before. It looks like the effect ends up being a sort of full body ink wash plus some weathering. From the tutorial, it seems as if Minwax is the norm.

I'll have to test that out (and I'm reading some more discussions of dipping right now).

Thanks to everyone for the great responses.
 
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Aaron Gelb
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I did a couple of squads in the following manor. (blood angels) Spray paint red. Paint shoulders and helmets black. Hit the guns with gunmetal gray and the eyes with emerald green. Optional unit markings. Flock.

I also had a friend that did imperial guard in the following manor. Paint green. Paint guns and boots black. Conservatively flock rest of miniature. Add brown sand to base. Instant camouflaged marines....
 
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The easiest way to do any color is to get a dark spray paint of one color and then dry brush the figure a lighter shade.

There are SM players out there that do nothing more than use black primer with drybrushed metallic.

It's effective.
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Bob Roberts

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Here are a couple rather poor pics of some Warmachine figs I speed painted using the Minwax Tudor dip method.
Block painted the basic colors (i.e. painted each color in its areas trying to stay in the lines) over a black prime coat drybrushed with white.
Then dipped, and sealed with matte finish when dry.


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Chrees M
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I really can't add anything (other than the techniques mentioned here hopefully will be put to use soon on warmachine figures!), but i have to say Bob, those trenchers are great. I'm no real expert on figure painting (My skills go from "reasonable at a distance" to "why has the figure got dipped in the paint pot?"), but i have to admit, i'd be proud to field an army looking like that... and it's reassuring to know that it's just painting areas, and then dipping to achieve the details.

What i'd like to know is, does the dip actually effect the colouring of the top surfaces? I.e. on the trenchers, the knee pads look dark, is that from the original colour or the Minwax darkening it?
 
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Bob Roberts

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Hi Chris, sorry for the delayed response. Been a little busy of late.

Yah, the dip does affect the colors somewhat. Mostly by darkening them.
So I tend to lighten the colors I am using for the block painting, or just use a lighter color.
The metal knee armor, and the rest of the metal for that matter on the trenchers are painted with a fairly dark metallic paint. Reaper Honed Steel I believe. I use that, then hit the edges with a more silver color sometimes.
 
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