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Mansions of Madness: Second Edition» Forums » General

Subject: Miniature painting rss

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Hi guys, so I'm going to be painting my new miniatures from Mansions of Madness. This is actually the first time I will be doing something like this and I've been watching tutorials on Youtube and reading articles to prepare myself. I went ahead and ordered a paint brush set and paint "starter set" from amazon (Army Painter brand) along with an anti-shine varnish that was also recommended by someone. But I still had a couple of questions if anyone was knowledgeable enough to indulge me.

First off all how essential is a primer spray? all the tutorials I see use one however a lot of the companies say a basic paint set is all you need. Can I get away just painting the base colours? Would it look horrible if I don't use a primer?

Second question and one I admit sounds pretty silly, would you recommend attaching the figures onto their bases before or after the painting. I have old 1st edition figures still that could be painted as well but they are glued in already and I'm reluctant to ruin the bases by spray painting them with a primer and everything else involved (assuming the answer to question 1 is "I should buy a primer").

Third question I guess is more related to the paints themselves. Any good paint mixing recommendations to create a nice "skin tone" colour? The starter set comes with a paint called barbarian skin but it looks orange/yellow in the image, and not entirely sure it would come out so well.

Thanks guys and sorry for what I'm certain are dumb questions.

UPDATE: editing OP with my first paint job

 
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If you dont prime them the paint will come off. The primer is formulated to bond with the plastic, and the acrylic paint adheres to the primer. The paint itself will not bond with the plastic and when you go to play with the figures you'll find it rub off.

Secondly - no, pva glue them to some card or a cork or a lid or something, then spray them, then once dry you can hold the temporary base to paint them. Once finished, you can just peel them off the temp base and glue them to the main bases and slide in the cards.

A tip is to make yourself a wet palette - which can be as simple as a plastic box with a wet sponge inside, then some greaseproof paper over the top - this stops your paints drying out.

Skin tone, you could just the base ones you have, but just darken down or lighten up for variety with a dab of brown or yellow.
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Abaddon Wormwood
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No such thing as a dumb question especially in regards to painting figures from such an expensive box set.

To answer your question about Primer - yes. Hell, Yes. Not only will it lend a surface for your paint (tooth) to grab onto but it will help bring out the colour's pigments (esp when using a white undercoat).

Ask yourself does any industry which paints ever print directly onto their surface without priming? Auto sprayers and house painters will, artist dress canvases in gesso and even detailed graffiti will put down an undercoat on their target surface.

I hope that helps

Wormwood
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kniknax wrote:
If you dont prime them the paint will come off. The primer is formulated to bond with the plastic, and the acrylic paint adheres to the primer. The paint itself will not bond with the plastic and when you go to play with the figures you'll find it rub off.

Secondly - no, pva glue them to some card or a cork or a lid or something, then spray them, then once dry you can hold the temporary base to paint them. Once finished, you can just peel them off the temp base and glue them to the main bases and slide in the cards.

A tip is to make yourself a wet palette - which can be as simple as a plastic box with a wet sponge inside, then some greaseproof paper over the top - this stops your paints drying out.

Skin tone, you could just the base ones you have, but just darken down or lighten up for variety with a dab of brown or yellow.


Thanks for the reply, it has been very helpful

It's a shame my old 1st edition models are now stuck like that. Might just buy the new expansions that was announced the other day and do over.

Lord of Wormwood wrote:
No such thing as a dumb question especially in regards to painting figures from such an expensive box set.

To answer your question about Primer - yes. Hell, Yes. Not only will it lend a surface for your paint (tooth) to grab onto but it will help bring out the colour's pigments (esp when using a white undercoat).

As yourself does any industry which paints ever print directly onto their surface without priming? Auto sprayers and house painters will, artist dress canvases in gesso and even detailed graffiti will put down an undercoat on their target surface.

I hope that helps

Wormwood


Thanks so much, it helps a lot. I was told I could get a cheap can of acrylic automotive primer and that would do the trick. I'll do a bit more research in that area.
 
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I'm also gonna try my 1st attempt at miniatures painting for this. I ended up buying a Build and Paint set https://www.games-workshop.com/en-NL/Build-Paint-Set-ENG for a little bit of everything to get started along with shading and detail brushes, additional flesh wash and a white Primer.
With the basic set I will get additional color purple and green since those seemed to be used the most and will be more reliable than mixing.

I forgot to get a varnish but will pick one soon. I will be following this guide for procedures as it seemed really detailed and nice: https://youtu.be/2MFjgr4Ao5I

By miniatures aren't glued so I will be using the extra 1st edition additional bases for painting. Remember u can always paint the base black again if u get it dirty.

Lemme know if u have any other question and I'll try and answer based of what I've seen but I haven't started myself yet

https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/687047/painting-plastic-min...
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vincentdante wrote:


Thanks for the reply, it has been very helpful

It's a shame my old 1st edition models are now stuck like that. Might just buy the new expansions that was announced the other day and do over.



What do you mean "It's a shame my old 1st edition models are now stuck like that" ? Have you previously painted the old models? If so you can strip the paint off by dunking them in a pot of Dettol (depending where you're from - different makes in different countries) and it will come off in half an hour or so.
 
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kniknax wrote:
vincentdante wrote:


Thanks for the reply, it has been very helpful

It's a shame my old 1st edition models are now stuck like that. Might just buy the new expansions that was announced the other day and do over.



What do you mean "It's a shame my old 1st edition models are now stuck like that" ? Have you previously painted the old models? If so you can strip the paint off by dunking them in a pot of Dettol (depending where you're from - different makes in different countries) and it will come off in half an hour or so.


Oh sorry, I was referring to my OP in regards that they are glued to their bases unpainted as you responded to me that I should leave them off their base. It's not to big of a deal I guess just a shame that I will have to ruin those bases if I want to paint them.

Anyway my new 2nd edition models aren't glued so should be easier to start with
 
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Dean L
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vincentdante wrote:
kniknax wrote:
vincentdante wrote:


Thanks for the reply, it has been very helpful

It's a shame my old 1st edition models are now stuck like that. Might just buy the new expansions that was announced the other day and do over.



What do you mean "It's a shame my old 1st edition models are now stuck like that" ? Have you previously painted the old models? If so you can strip the paint off by dunking them in a pot of Dettol (depending where you're from - different makes in different countries) and it will come off in half an hour or so.


Oh sorry, I was referring to my OP in regards that they are glued to their bases unpainted as you responded to me that I should leave them off their base. It's not to big of a deal I guess just a shame that I will have to ruin those bases if I want to paint them.

Anyway my new 2nd edition models aren't glued so should be easier to start with


It's easy enough to repaint the bases black.

Also fairly easy to cut the model off the base and glue it back on later.

Or stick sticky tape over the bases while painting, and peel it off when done.

Plenty of options, no need to buy new figures! (And the investigator figures are stuck to the bases anyway when bought)
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Deano2099 wrote:
vincentdante wrote:
kniknax wrote:
vincentdante wrote:


Thanks for the reply, it has been very helpful

It's a shame my old 1st edition models are now stuck like that. Might just buy the new expansions that was announced the other day and do over.



What do you mean "It's a shame my old 1st edition models are now stuck like that" ? Have you previously painted the old models? If so you can strip the paint off by dunking them in a pot of Dettol (depending where you're from - different makes in different countries) and it will come off in half an hour or so.


Oh sorry, I was referring to my OP in regards that they are glued to their bases unpainted as you responded to me that I should leave them off their base. It's not to big of a deal I guess just a shame that I will have to ruin those bases if I want to paint them.

Anyway my new 2nd edition models aren't glued so should be easier to start with


It's easy enough to repaint the bases black.

Also fairly easy to cut the model off the base and glue it back on later.

Or stick sticky tape over the bases while painting, and peel it off when done.

Plenty of options, no need to buy new figures! (And the investigator figures are stuck to the bases anyway when bought)


Oh when I mentioned re-buying them it was kind of a joke (that's an expensive paint job, although I don't own call of the wild so I'll probably get that new expansion anyway). I was thinking of wrapping the bases in a cloth but I still have beginners nerves I guess. Yeah I'll just repaint them black if need be. But thanks for the answer
 
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Before priming plastic (or metal minis for that matter) right out of the box, it is a good idea to wash them with a bit of dish soap and water to make certain there is no mold release on them.

That said, *most* plastic models and mini's are somewhat clean when you get them, but I have gotten mini's that needed to be washed and left out to dry first, so I always wash them first. My 2c...
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Remember to remove the cards first if you do decide to leave them on the bases!!
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For a flesh tone, I haven't been able to do better than a cheapo Folk Art acrylic I found in Pat Catans for a buck. The shade is simply called "Skintone." I've never had to mix it with anything; the color is dead on.

Also, get yourself a decent wash like Citadel's Nuln Oil. Hit the model with that after it's painted to get some nice contrast and blend over those spots where you got a little shakey. A good wash can make a first paint job look like you knew what you were doing the whole time. There's a reason people call it "liquid talent." Just be sure to highlight back up a little.

Most of all, just go for it. By all means, do some research, watch some videos, but there's only one way to learn and get better. Have fun!
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If you're using the anti-shine lacquer it is definitely worth practising on minis you're not too worried about first - badly applied matte varnish can go cloudy and horrible.

Ink washes are a great way to get speedy results; just avoid using pure black (it looks horrible on anything that isn't dark grey or very dark blue, but it's a mistake that many new painters make) if you're washing over green, use a darker shade of green, if you're washing over brown, use a darker shade of brown etc.

Also, don't try and paint eyes in detail (and never use cocktail sticks to do so if you're dead set on the idea!) as 9 times out of 10 they wind up looking like goggle-eyed goons. A delicate brown stripe is usually more than sufficient.

surprise
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InvisibleRobots wrote:
Before priming plastic (or metal minis for that matter) right out of the box, it is a good idea to wash them with a bit of dish soap and water to make certain there is no mold release on them.

That said, *most* plastic models and mini's are somewhat clean when you get them, but I have gotten mini's that needed to be washed and left out to dry first, so I always wash them first. My 2c...


Thanks I'll be sure to do that

kniknax wrote:
Remember to remove the cards first if you do decide to leave them on the bases!!


Yep don't want to ruin those if I ever want to play 1st edition again.

burningecho wrote:
For a flesh tone, I haven't been able to do better than a cheapo Folk Art acrylic I found in Pat Catans for a buck. The shade is simply called "Skintone." I've never had to mix it with anything; the color is dead on.

Also, get yourself a decent wash like Citadel's Nuln Oil. Hit the model with that after it's painted to get some nice contrast and blend over those spots where you got a little shakey. A good wash can make a first paint job look like you knew what you were doing the whole time. There's a reason people call it "liquid talent." Just be sure to highlight back up a little.

Most of all, just go for it. By all means, do some research, watch some videos, but there's only one way to learn and get better. Have fun!


Thanks for the recommendation, I was going to try the skin tone and "quickshade" wash that comes with the starter set I ordered to begin with but I'll note this post if those look subpar.

parp wrote:
If you're using the anti-shine lacquer it is definitely worth practising on minis you're not too worried about first - badly applied matte varnish can go cloudy and horrible.

Ink washes are a great way to get speedy results; just avoid using pure black (it looks horrible on anything that isn't dark grey or very dark blue, but it's a mistake that many new painters make) if you're washing over green, use a darker shade of green, if you're washing over brown, use a darker shade of brown etc.

Also, don't try and paint eyes in detail (and never use cocktail sticks to do so if you're dead set on the idea!) as 9 times out of 10 they wind up looking like goggle-eyed goons. A delicate brown stripe is usually more than sufficient.

surprise


Thanks for the warning with the varnish. I think I have a few ancient test models lying around I could practice on. I understand what you are saying with the eyes. I will just go over the eyes quickly with white and brown as you suggest.

Thanks guys for all the feedback.
 
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* It's fine to prime the bases. You can paint the bases as well. If you have two of the same monster, paint one base outside (grass) and the other inside (wood). Watch and read as many basing tutorials as you can.

* When priming, completely spray paint in black, then briefly paint white. Search on "zenithal priming miniatures".

* For the Army Painter, mix in a little brown to darken the skin tone. Also, pick up the Army Painter Quickshade Ink set and watch a few wash tutorials. Get a good size 0 or 00 hobby brush, and some cheap "sable nail art" brushes on Amazon. Colored metallic craft paints are an inexpensive way to make your monsters slimy (glossy) looking.

* Search for Mansions of Madness painting guides and tutorials. Dig around here: https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&e...

* Take a look at the Arkham Horror prepainted miniatures. They're painted with less detail than paint jobs by experienced painters, so you will feel less intimidated. One thought is to first paint your miniatures only up to prepainted. By the time you're finished, you will have enough experience to continue painting your miniatures. https://www.google.com/search?q=mansions+of+madness+painted&...

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Well now I know what I'm doing next weekend after I buy a Primer

Also very shocked that amazon delivered it on a Sunday of all days.

 
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Ba-bumping my old thread, well here it is guys my first attempt at painting. Thanks again to everyone for the tips they provided.



I'm pretty pleased with how they came out . I think I may have layered on the quickshade toner a bit too thick, but luckily it gave the cthonians a "dirty and muddy" look which I was going for anyway.

And it taught me a lesson for future models to use a finer brush with the toner I think.
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