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Mansions of Madness: Second Edition» Forums » General

Subject: Component fix planned? rss

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Paul Glickman
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Hi,

I'm strongly considering grabbing this game but the bases of the monsters seem very sub-par. Do we know if there are plans for better quality control in a second printing?

Thanks!
Paul
 
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Reverend Uncle Bastard
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Paul G wrote:
Hi,

I'm strongly considering grabbing this game but the bases of the monsters seem very sub-par. Do we know if there are plans for better quality control in a second printing?

Thanks!
Paul


I Doubt it. Just rebase them with clear bases like this:

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Paul Glickman
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Hm. Seems interesting, you don't leave the tokens visible? How expensive are the clear bases and where did you find them?
 
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Reverend Uncle Bastard
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Paul G wrote:
Hm. Seems interesting, you don't leave the tokens visible? How expensive are the clear bases and where did you find them?


I just put the tokens by the side of the board for reference. They don't need to be under the monster, you can just reference the appropriate type of monster token wherever it is.

Those are clear Litko tokens I got from meeplemart (one 25 pack of 30mm for $7.95 and one 10 pack of 40mm for $5.95).

http://www.meeplemart.com/store/p/18599-Transparent-Bases-Ro...

http://www.meeplemart.com/store/p/18596-Transparent-Bases-Ro...
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R.P. Kraul
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The bases are rubbish. FFG ought to have revised them for Mansions 2ed, but they didn't.

I ordered clear acrylic bases from Litko. About $20 in all with shipping.
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Paul Glickman
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No base for the... big Cthulhu things?
 
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Reverend Uncle Bastard
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Paul G wrote:
No base for the... big Cthulhu things?


They stand up fine without a base so I didn't bother.
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ROGER DEAL
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Drpretorios wrote:
The bases are rubbish. FFG ought to have revised them for Mansions 2ed, but they didn't.

I ordered clear acrylic bases from Litko. About $20 in all with shipping.

I did the same. Took about 5 days to get them.
 
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Mike Martin
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What type of glue did you use? The glue I'm using now (Loctite Superglue) leaves a white residue on minis. Normally it's no problem because I paint over, but with the clear bases, that would be no good.
 
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Arthur Peterson
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I love the bases. Just sayin'.
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Sean McLaughlin
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Grim6 wrote:
What type of glue did you use? The glue I'm using now (Loctite Superglue) leaves a white residue on minis. Normally it's no problem because I paint over, but with the clear bases, that would be no good.

Litko sells a #33 acrylic cement that works superbly.
There are also a couple of reference sheets in the Files section that provide all the monster info so you don't need the tokens.
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Nick Jolliff
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Natai wrote:
Grim6 wrote:
What type of glue did you use? The glue I'm using now (Loctite Superglue) leaves a white residue on minis. Normally it's no problem because I paint over, but with the clear bases, that would be no good.

Litko sells a #33 acrylic cement that works superbly.
There are also a couple of reference sheets in the Files section that provide all the monster info so you don't need the tokens.


How is that cement with paint? I have most of my minis painted already and I bought the Litko bases and the #33 glue, but haven't tried it out yet. Is it really that potent that Ill want to be glueing outside?
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I noticed the FFG bases have little tabs sticking out of them. Are those used for damage or condition tokens?
 
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MM
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Lexthilian wrote:
I noticed the FFG bases have little tabs sticking out of them. Are those used for damage or condition tokens?


Those are there to assist in differentiating between same type monsters. When you have more than one cultist on the board at the same time, for instance. The app assigns a symbol to each duplicate so you can insert the symbol in the base and tell the duplicates apart.
 
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R.P. Kraul
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For those eyeing the Litko bases who are looking to save a little scratch: the vast majority of monsters will fit on 25mm bases. The exceptions to this would be haunting horrors, deep ones, and riots--these fit on 40mm bases. The star spawns don't need based, but if you're determined to do so, 60mm should work.
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MM
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Drpretorios wrote:
For those eyeing the Litko bases who are looking to save a little scratch: the vast majority of monsters will fit on 25mm bases. The exceptions to this would be haunting horrors, deep ones, and riots--these fit on 40mm bases. The star spawns don't need based, but if you're determined to do so, 60mm should work.


Sounds like you've gone this route. How have you found managing duplicates without the tabs? Any tips?
 
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Reverend Uncle Bastard
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Mistermannindy wrote:
Drpretorios wrote:
For those eyeing the Litko bases who are looking to save a little scratch: the vast majority of monsters will fit on 25mm bases. The exceptions to this would be haunting horrors, deep ones, and riots--these fit on 40mm bases. The star spawns don't need based, but if you're determined to do so, 60mm should work.


Sounds like you've gone this route. How have you found managing duplicates without the tabs? Any tips?


I rebased mine with the Litko tokens. As for managing duplicates, I just lay the appropriate token next to the monster, works fine.
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Over 50 Gamer
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Mistermannindy wrote:
Drpretorios wrote:
For those eyeing the Litko bases who are looking to save a little scratch: the vast majority of monsters will fit on 25mm bases. The exceptions to this would be haunting horrors, deep ones, and riots--these fit on 40mm bases. The star spawns don't need based, but if you're determined to do so, 60mm should work.


Sounds like you've gone this route. How have you found managing duplicates without the tabs? Any tips?


Ive also heard someone that used a dry erase marker on the clear base to differentiate.
 
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R.P. Kraul
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reverendunclebastard wrote:
Mistermannindy wrote:
Drpretorios wrote:
For those eyeing the Litko bases who are looking to save a little scratch: the vast majority of monsters will fit on 25mm bases. The exceptions to this would be haunting horrors, deep ones, and riots--these fit on 40mm bases. The star spawns don't need based, but if you're determined to do so, 60mm should work.


Sounds like you've gone this route. How have you found managing duplicates without the tabs? Any tips?


I rebased mine with the Litko tokens. As for managing duplicates, I just lay the appropriate token next to the monster, works fine.


This is how I've done it--just place the token near the model.
 
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Sean McLaughlin
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ZombieWaffle wrote:
Natai wrote:
Grim6 wrote:
What type of glue did you use? The glue I'm using now (Loctite Superglue) leaves a white residue on minis. Normally it's no problem because I paint over, but with the clear bases, that would be no good.

Litko sells a #33 acrylic cement that works superbly.
There are also a couple of reference sheets in the Files section that provide all the monster info so you don't need the tokens.


How is that cement with paint? I have most of my minis painted already and I bought the Litko bases and the #33 glue, but haven't tried it out yet. Is it really that potent that Ill want to be glueing outside?

I can't say for certain how it will interact with paint, but should be fine. I paint my minis, spray them with matte acrylic finish, then cut off the pegs and glue them to the bases. I haven't had any issues and wouldn't expect any.

And no, this stuff is not as potent as the warnings make it out to be. Nail polish, super glue, etc. are all far stronger. This stuff is more of a quick-drying gel than a liquid and doesn't have a lot of vapor. If you're holed up in small confined space like a basement or a bathroom - sure, might be a problem. But as long as you're not stupid about it...

Actually, this glue is probably the easiest stuff I have ever worked with.

Mistermannindy wrote:
Drpretorios wrote:
For those eyeing the Litko bases who are looking to save a little scratch: the vast majority of monsters will fit on 25mm bases. The exceptions to this would be haunting horrors, deep ones, and riots--these fit on 40mm bases. The star spawns don't need based, but if you're determined to do so, 60mm should work.


Sounds like you've gone this route. How have you found managing duplicates without the tabs? Any tips?

I try to include small differences in coloring or other details when painting the minis themselves. For example, the dorsal fin/spikes on my Deep Ones are all dry brushed in a different color. It's a subtle but noticeable difference when trying to tell them apart.
Spoiler (click to reveal)
Worked well at the end of Rising Tide, as the colors were almost a one-to-one match for the different colored spawn points.

Not real easy to see in this pic, but one has purplish spikes, one blue, one yellow/green, and one turquoise.


I did forget to do this with my cultists though...
 
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Gavin Meakings
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Does anyone who has the original edition & expansions know how many bases and the sizes we will need to rebase all of those? Given that the expansions are shipping at the moment I am trying to make sure I have enough of the correct size bases.

Thanks
 
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Sean McLaughlin
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Aeneades wrote:
Does anyone who has the original edition & expansions know how many bases and the sizes we will need to rebase all of those? Given that the expansions are shipping at the moment I am trying to make sure I have enough of the correct size bases.

Thanks

Check this thread.
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Markococo
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Litko seems to be the place to get the best clear plastic bases but as it's in the US, shipping can be quite expensive.

Does anyone know of a UK retailer that sells clear bases like the ones in the pics?



 
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Parker Suczynski
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I'm planning on painting my figures but I had a question for someone who has played more games than I (I've only played the first scenario, once)

I'd include each ID token color in my figures so as to identify them when there are duplicates, but I'm unsure of the order in which the ID tokens appear. in the only game I played, we only saw the red token. does anyone have more insight into what order the ID token colors appear in the app? (i.e. red, then blue, then white, then etc.)
 
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Austin Fleming
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It wouldn't help to include the token color with the figures because, while it does seem to use the colors in a specific order, it depends on which monster duplicates first. If you have two cultists first, the second one will be red and if you then have a duplicate deep one it will be purple. But if you have two deep one hybrids first, the second one will still be red and if the cultists duplicate after that the second one will be purple.

If that's at all clear...
 
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