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Subject: My "Simple" Mahogany game table rss

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sam zitin
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I got into woodworking about 6 months ago, with the specific intent of learning skills to help me eventually work up to building this table! This summer I was able to curry together enough down time to put it together.

The skirt, shelves and inner frame are all mahogany. I was originally going to use Douglas Fir (the most stiff and hard of the softwoods) but discovered when I was pricing it out that it was only marginally cheaper than Mahogany boards at Menards. All the lumber ran under $200, not including the 1/4" birch plywood for the actual table surface. The legs are presumably oak but were "project wood" from the Rockler store.

The design began with a simple 6'x3' box made from 1x6


The box then got cross braces of 2x4 Doug fir and was drilled for pocket holes facing the top. At this point you can notice that the braces are flush with the bottom of the box, creating a 2" gap towards the top which will give us the recessed playing surface




I glued each of the shelves one at a time with a liberal amount of wood glue and then clamped in place so I could sink the pocket screws. Once all the shelves are in, between 10 pocket screws and 6' of wood glue joint they are capable of holding my entire body weight easily



Putting in the last shelves



I chintzed out and got bought 6' boards to exactly match the length of the sides instead of buying 8' and cutting it down to be able to miter the corners. I did buy 4' boards for the short sides which I cut a lap joint into to let them fit flush. This attachment actually lends some strength to the joint



This is the table standing upright with all shelves installed



The 24" long oak 2x4s attached by glue and 4 pocket screws to a piece of 2x6. The 2x6 is then bolted through to one of the supporting 2x4s under the table. This lets me remove the legs if I ever need to move the table easily





And she's pretty much done!





The wood is still unfinished. It'll be getting a few generous coats of teak oil and then hand rubbed with poly. I also plan on installing a supporting shelf underneath but I'm super happy with how it's turned out so far.

The table covering is neoprene. There is an inset frame of 1x2 which covers the pocket holes and will support boards to cover the recessed playing area. I plan on using stained tongue and grove boards for that.

90% done and a great use of a new hobby!
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Clay Blankenship
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Looks great. Thanks for posting the details, I have dreams of making something like this one day. (I was thinking of making a lift-off top so I could cover and save a game in progress.)
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Drew
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Great work and looking forward to seeing it after you apply the teak oil and poly.
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Tom McThorn
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Looks great. Pocket holes make it so much easier to make furniture.
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Clay Blankenship
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Let me see if I understand--each pair of legs is attached to a 2x6 to make a three-quarter-rectangle, and that center 2x6 is attached parallel to one of the cross braces. Right?

Where did you get the neoprene cover?
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sam zitin
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snoweel wrote:
Let me see if I understand--each pair of legs is attached to a 2x6 to make a three-quarter-rectangle, and that center 2x6 is attached parallel to one of the cross braces. Right?

Where did you get the neoprene cover?


Correct, the 2x6 is cut with a notch at the bottom corners so that the table leg sits in it and extends underneath the table skirt. The skirt rests directly on the exposed part of the table leg in addition to being attached by bolts from the table joist to the 2x6 that joins the legs on opposite sides. The leg "sets" aren't currently joined but will be joined by a shelf 12" up from the ground.

The neoprene cover was from Foamorder.com. It was 6mm because that is the only thickness they had the forest green in. I was originally planning to use 2 or 3mm neoprene and save a bunch of money but once I was that far in I wanted what I wanted. At this point if I had to do it again I'd probably order the double sided green/red neoprene from Moodfabrics. It's 2.5mm and much less expensive.

I was originally also worried about having fabric on both sides because I didn't want the mat to slide around, but my design actually has a separate frame that goes over the neoprene and holds the mat in place (and also covers up the pocket hole screws and will support the inset leaves)
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