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Subject: Mini painting question: trouble with inks rss

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Adrian B
Canada
Dartmouth
Nova Scotia
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First off, of all the places to post this, I thought this might get the most visibility here. If anyone can recommend a better spot, letme know.

Im following the painting guide published by PHG, and the author describes how to make inks: equal part paint, water and Future floor wax. Future FW, as Ive come to find out, was bought out by Pledge. After CAREFULLY making sure to avoid the mistake of buying the wrong product, Im certain that I have the Pledge Floor wax that is essentially what Future used to be. Unfortunately, I am thinking there must be other "oily" or "soapy" like additives than what Future was, because my ink cocktail isnt mixing. Its coagulating like oil and water. Is this normal and simply requires a LOT OF agressive mixing? I understand that the goal is to make the paint less viscous ie "runnier" and perhaps a bit translucent, but instead this heterogeneous mixture is gloppy. Im better offjust using straight paint and a fine tipped brush. Am I doing something wrong? Wouldnt just thinned out paint work the same ie add some thinner to the paint? Or is this a bad idea because the thinner "melt" the the base coat below?

Any help appreciated, thanks
 
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Peter Mulholland
United Kingdom
Bradford
West Yorkshire
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Hi Adrian.

There is a dedicated DIY forum where you might be better posting it.

I'm new to painting but for what its worth here's my thoughts:

Inks/washes are used to create the effect of shadow and highlight certain areas, this works as they are very thin so they flow and settle in the crevasses of the mini.
The painting guide for MoM while excellent, is pretty old. I probably wouldn't use this technique, I know many people who just really thin down acrylic paints with water to get the right effect - no other additions. There is also a huuuge range of inks/washes available for sale online. I just bought a set of 8 Vajello ones in various colours for £20 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004RO3UCU/ref=oh_aui_de...).

Hope that helps a bit!
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Michelle
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I'm guessing what you have isn't what future used to be. It should be crystal clear, colorless, watery consistency, and said the word "acrylic" on it somewhere, not wax.

Is that what yours is like? There's no way your mix should be goopy, because the cleaner itself isn't goopy, it's watery. If the mix is separating, I'm guessing what you have isn't an acrylic floor cleaner. An acrylic cleaner should be water soluble, bc it's for mopping with.

As to your general question about thinners and washes and whatnot: Acrylic paint isn't typically used with "paint thinners" like turpentine, so I'm not 100% sure what you mean by thinner. If you mean just using water, or something like "airbrush thinner," which just reduces pigment density without changing surface tension very much, you will end up with paint on the raised parts as well, not just in the recesses. That's more of a "glaze" technique. You can definitely try it, but it may make the mini look dirty or generally dull the other colors (not a bad thing for the rats and bugs, but maybe not what you want for the heroes).

The watered-down future acts as a cheapo version of what is officially called "acrylic flow medium," aka something that breaks the surface tension of the paint to make it flow into the cracks and stay off of the raised surfaces.

I'd recommend picking up some acrylic flow improver/flow medium/flow aid at a craft or art supply store, if you don't want to buy a ready-made wash like Peter mentions. It's pretty cheap and 1 small bottle will last you forever.

Side note, if following Peter's advice, you want a wash, not an ink. Inks don't have the broken surface tension you need. Edit: Also, if you do Army Painter, again make sure you get the wash, not the polyurethane quickshade "dip" that comes in the same colors.
 
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Mark Blasco

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Honestly, nowadays, there's no reason not to buy a premade wash if you are new to painting. You'll get great results without all of the DIY fuss. Once you know better what you want and what to expect, you can start safely DIYing things around, because you'll know if it's right or not.

The army painter strong and dark shades (brown and black) are good, as are any of the other companies out there making model paints.

You can just water down paint, but there won't be the same level of control, and you'll likely end up with splotches/rings/unpleasantness. The commercial washes work very well.
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David Hladky
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Be aware of the the video guides. The authors often consider their type of color the only correct one (enamel/acrylics) and so they do not mention it.

So you watch the guide until the end and if you are lucky you realize the technique is not for you, because both acrylics and enamel colors behave differently.
 
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Mark Blasco

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The Sorastro videos on YouTube are a fantastic resource for a beginner painter, as well as Dr. Fausts Painting Clinic.

I think the key is, if you are new to this, make sure you're using miniature paints and washes. They will all work together, rather than some of the model and craft paints which will do bad things.

If you do a coat of paint on your figures that is ever slightly brighter than what you want the end result to be, than use a wash to fill in the spaces and darken it all a bit, you'll have a great looking figure. If you then paint in some highlights to make things pop, it will look even better. Once you've done it once or twice, you'll see how easy it can be.
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kamil b
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Just buy a wash paint, why even bother with floor waxes and other nonsense? There are dozens of inks for shading available in any decent gaming shop..
 
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