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Mansions of Madness: Second Edition» Forums » General

Subject: Minis wont fit in Bases rss

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Jerome Nowak

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Hey All... I just got my game in the mail today. Im going through and sleeving my cards and getting everything set up...some of the minis dont fit quite right in the bases. Everything was manageable until I tried a Star Spawn...its right foot wont sit snug in either base. Shit.

Advice?
 
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Thomas Grogan
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If you don't mind a permanent solution, I gorilla glued the minis to my bases. Those SOBs aren't going anywhere.
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Paul Aceto
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The more I think about this, the more I am inclined to just put the monster counter in a standee.
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Alexander Steinbach
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A knife, glue, and hot water. I agree that it shouldn't be necessary, but you have to be a bit creative to get them properly attached.
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Judgement Dave
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Rebase them onto clear acrylic - it looks so, so, so much better. If you do this keep the tokens (or just 1 of each monster type) to hand at the side of the playing area.

Also note that the starspawn stand happily without any base.
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Jerome Nowak

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Zouave wrote:
The more I think about this, the more I am inclined to just put the monster counter in a standee.


Yeah, there are some nice looking ones on Etsy... I really dig minis, but I just don't know about these.

Vardaine wrote:
A knife, glue, and hot water. I agree that it shouldn't be necessary, but you have to be a bit creative to get them properly attached.


What is the hot water for?
 
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Jerome Nowak

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JudgementDave wrote:
Rebase them onto clear acrylic - it looks so, so, so much better. If you do this keep the tokens (or just 1 of each monster type) to hand at the side of the playing area.

Also note that the starspawn stand happily without any base.


Yeah I was thinking about that... hmm...so you just glue the minis to the clear acrylic bases then? What kind of glue do you use?

Good call on the Star Spawn.
 
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julian hoddy
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+1 on that. I've done exactly the same as Dave. looks great and free's up the lovely tile art. I just keep an active monster chit near me if you need to reference their horror / awareness. which is not often as you get to remember who's the scarier monster after a while.
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Jerome Nowak

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juleshoddy wrote:
+1 on that. I've done exactly the same as Dave. looks great and free's up the lovely tile art. I just keep an active monster chit near me if you need to reference their horror / awareness. which is not often as you get to remember who's the scarier monster after a while.


I was sliding those tokens into the bases last night, and every one I said to myself, "Man...covering up this awesome art.", and shook my head. Its a travesty. LOL

I wish there were a way to combine re-basing the minis with using the tokens as standees. Maybe using the tokens as bases or something along the lines...
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Magic Pink
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even worse, my bases were so warped, broken and full of flash that putting the tokens in them completely destroyed the tokens.

Asmodee really dropped the ball on this.
 
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Alexander Steinbach
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jnowak415 wrote:
Zouave wrote:
The more I think about this, the more I am inclined to just put the monster counter in a standee.


Yeah, there are some nice looking ones on Etsy... I really dig minis, but I just don't know about these.

Vardaine wrote:
A knife, glue, and hot water. I agree that it shouldn't be necessary, but you have to be a bit creative to get them properly attached.


What is the hot water for?



You can easily bend the plastic in angles you want by submerging them for about a minute in hot water. You can then proceed to (gently) bend them in the desired stance without fear of breaking the models. Once you are satisfied with the result, you can submerge them in cold water to "fix" the models in the desired stance.

You can use this when the legs of the monsters don't line up correctly with the holes on the bases. Simple bend the models in the right position using this trick to make them fit in the bases. I advise to then use a drop of superglue to fix them to the bases otherwise they tend to fall off every now and then.

Last, before inserting the tokens into the bases, make sure that the pegs do not extend all the way through the base or you will damage the tokens. Use a sharp knife to remove a bit of plastic from the peg if this is the case.
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Jerome Nowak

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Vardaine wrote:
jnowak415 wrote:
Zouave wrote:
The more I think about this, the more I am inclined to just put the monster counter in a standee.


Yeah, there are some nice looking ones on Etsy... I really dig minis, but I just don't know about these.

Vardaine wrote:
A knife, glue, and hot water. I agree that it shouldn't be necessary, but you have to be a bit creative to get them properly attached.


What is the hot water for?



You can easily bend the plastic in angles you want by submerging them for about a minute in hot water. You can then proceed to (gently) bend them in the desired stance without fear of breaking the models. Once you are satisfied with the result, you can submerge them in cold water to "fix" the models in the desired stance.

You can use this when the legs of the monsters don't line up correctly with the holes on the bases. Simple bend the models in the right position using this trick to make them fit in the bases. I advise to then use a drop of superglue to fix them to the bases otherwise they tend to fall off every now and then.

Last, before inserting the tokens into the bases, make sure that the pegs do not extend all the way through the base or you will damage the tokens. Use a sharp knife to remove a bit of plastic from the peg if this is the case.


Ahhh, okay! That makes sense. There are a couple of the minis where I only have 1 of the pegs locked in, currently. I will probably try this water "trick" tonight to get those to fit. I'll also go through and superglue them to the bases, as well. I like the idea of clear bases, but I like using the games actual components when possible...and I dont mind the black bases too much.

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but is there a good brand of superglue to buy? Also, how about foam core brands, any suggestions? I'm planning on trying to put together something for the minis and maybe the cards (right now theyre in deck boxes) this weekend, but have never used foam core before.
 
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Jay Jones
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jnowak415 wrote:

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but is there a good brand of superglue to buy? Also, how about foam core brands, any suggestions? I'm planning on trying to put together something for the minis and maybe the cards (right now theyre in deck boxes) this weekend, but have never used foam core before.


As far as foamcore is concerned, I usually just use the Elmer's that you can pick up at Walmart (If you're in the US), though any brand should do fine. Any kind of white (PVA) glue will work a treat to hold it together. If you haven't yet, I cannot recommend watching the Esoteric Order of Gamer's foamcore tutorial, starting here:

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Jerome Nowak

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jljone0 wrote:
jnowak415 wrote:

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but is there a good brand of superglue to buy? Also, how about foam core brands, any suggestions? I'm planning on trying to put together something for the minis and maybe the cards (right now theyre in deck boxes) this weekend, but have never used foam core before.


As far as foamcore is concerned, I usually just use the Elmer's that you can pick up at Walmart (If you're in the US), though any brand should do fine. Any kind of white (PVA) glue will work a treat to hold it together. If you haven't yet, I cannot recommend watching the Esoteric Order of Gamer's foamcore tutorial, starting here:



I will be watching this one, without a doubt!

Hopefully Ill be able to do this for pretty cheap. Im hoping to not have to buy a cutting board, ruler, knife, etc. So hopefully I can find that stuff laying around.
 
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R.P. Kraul
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Magic Pink wrote:
even worse, my bases were so warped, broken and full of flash that putting the tokens in them completely destroyed the tokens.

Asmodee really dropped the ball on this.


Yeah, they screwed this up. I would advise anyone who's sticking with the original bases to go over them with a utility knife to remove excess flashing. Otherwise, you're going to mutilate your tokens.

But I'll also add another vote for the clear acrylic bases. They improve the miniatures tenfold.
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Jerome Nowak

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Drpretorios wrote:
Magic Pink wrote:
even worse, my bases were so warped, broken and full of flash that putting the tokens in them completely destroyed the tokens.

Asmodee really dropped the ball on this.


Yeah, they screwed this up. I would advise anyone who's sticking with the original bases to go over them with a utility knife to remove excess flashing. Otherwise, you're going to mutilate your tokens.

But I'll also add another vote for the clear acrylic bases. They improve the miniatures tenfold.


what does "full of flash" mean? What is 'flash'?
 
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Jay Jones
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jnowak415 wrote:


I will be watching this one, without a doubt!

Hopefully Ill be able to do this for pretty cheap. Im hoping to not have to buy a cutting board, ruler, knife, etc. So hopefully I can find that stuff laying around.


Any utility or craft knife will do, although the sharper/newer the blade, the better your cuts will be. You can use a scrap of cardboard instead of a cutting mat, or just make sure you don't care about the surface you're cutting on. The ruler is kind of non-optional, though. it's the only way you're going to get straight cuts. You could try a wooden school ruler as long as it has a metal edge, though. In all, if this is the only insert you're going to do, you can probably make do with whatever you find around the house.
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Jerome Nowak

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jljone0 wrote:
jnowak415 wrote:


I will be watching this one, without a doubt!

Hopefully Ill be able to do this for pretty cheap. Im hoping to not have to buy a cutting board, ruler, knife, etc. So hopefully I can find that stuff laying around.


Any utility or craft knife will do, although the sharper/newer the blade, the better your cuts will be. You can use a scrap of cardboard instead of a cutting mat, or just make sure you don't care about the surface you're cutting on. The ruler is kind of non-optional, though. it's the only way you're going to get straight cuts. You could try a wooden school ruler as long as it has a metal edge, though. In all, if this is the only insert you're going to do, you can probably make do with whatever you find around the house.


Yeah, I think I have a knife somewhere that will work for it. Thats the big thing for me. And youre spot on. I was going to use an old cardboard box flattened out to work on, and then just try to find the best straight edge that I can.

Hopefully the foam core is all I will need to purchase for now. How many boards will it probably take?
 
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alan stahl
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jnowak415 wrote:
Drpretorios wrote:
Magic Pink wrote:
even worse, my bases were so warped, broken and full of flash that putting the tokens in them completely destroyed the tokens.

Asmodee really dropped the ball on this.


Yeah, they screwed this up. I would advise anyone who's sticking with the original bases to go over them with a utility knife to remove excess flashing. Otherwise, you're going to mutilate your tokens.

But I'll also add another vote for the clear acrylic bases. They improve the miniatures tenfold.


what does "full of flash" mean? What is 'flash'?


Flash is just extra [plastic, in this case] material connected to the mini/base which isn't intended to be part of the piece. Often this is just a ridge in the model where the two halves of the form press together when the piece is poured. Sometimes, the excess material is larger (often flat) pieces loosely connected to the piece.

The MoM2E bases in particular have a lot of this excess material that should be removed with a hobby [or other sharp] knife before inserting the monster tokens.
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Jerome Nowak

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ironmonk wrote:
jnowak415 wrote:
Drpretorios wrote:
Magic Pink wrote:
even worse, my bases were so warped, broken and full of flash that putting the tokens in them completely destroyed the tokens.

Asmodee really dropped the ball on this.


Yeah, they screwed this up. I would advise anyone who's sticking with the original bases to go over them with a utility knife to remove excess flashing. Otherwise, you're going to mutilate your tokens.

But I'll also add another vote for the clear acrylic bases. They improve the miniatures tenfold.


what does "full of flash" mean? What is 'flash'?


Flash is just extra [plastic, in this case] material connected to the mini/base which isn't intended to be part of the piece. Often this is just a ridge in the model where the two halves of the form press together when the piece is poured. Sometimes, the excess material is larger (often flat) pieces loosely connected to the piece.

The MoM2E bases in particular have a lot of this excess material that should be removed with a hobby [or other sharp] knife before inserting the monster tokens.


I had 2 bases where I had to peel off a small piece of extra plastic, or flash, but yeah, mine werent very bad at all, in those regards.
 
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Jay Jones
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jnowak415 wrote:


Yeah, I think I have a knife somewhere that will work for it. Thats the big thing for me. And youre spot on. I was going to use an old cardboard box flattened out to work on, and then just try to find the best straight edge that I can.

Hopefully the foam core is all I will need to purchase for now. How many boards will it probably take?


You will mostly likely be able to get what you need out of one sheet, but I would probably pick up a couple to prevent a second trip in case you need more. Make sure that the straight edge you use is metal, because the knife will shave off wood or plastic, and it won't be straight any more.
I took a quick look around Walmart's website, and they have a metal ruler for 4 bucks and a snap-off style utility knife for 2. I imagine most department/big box/hardware stores would be equivalent. So even if you do need to get some tools, it shouldn't be too much.



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Jerome Nowak

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jljone0 wrote:
jnowak415 wrote:


Yeah, I think I have a knife somewhere that will work for it. Thats the big thing for me. And youre spot on. I was going to use an old cardboard box flattened out to work on, and then just try to find the best straight edge that I can.

Hopefully the foam core is all I will need to purchase for now. How many boards will it probably take?


You will mostly likely be able to get what you need out of one sheet, but I would probably pick up a couple to prevent a second trip in case you need more. Make sure that the straight edge you use is metal, because the knife will shave off wood or plastic, and it won't be straight any more.
I took a quick look around Walmart's website, and they have a metal ruler for 4 bucks and a snap-off style utility knife for 2. I imagine most department/big box/hardware stores would be equivalent. So even if you do need to get some tools, it shouldn't be too much.





Oh, wow, thank you very much for looking!! Yeah, I was going to go to Wal-Mart for the foam core anyways, so yeah, Ill grab a couple boards, just in case, one of those snap off style utility knives, and a metal ruler. Less than 20 bucks should equip me fairly well.
 
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Jay Jones
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jnowak415 wrote:


Oh, wow, thank you very much for looking!! Yeah, I was going to go to Wal-Mart for the foam core anyways, so yeah, Ill grab a couple boards, just in case, one of those snap off style utility knives, and a metal ruler. Less than 20 bucks should equip me fairly well.


No problem at all! Fair warning though - if you're anything like me, you'll do an insert for just this one game, and then realize that you like it (and the process) so much that you need to do one for all your games.

In all seriousness, it may seem daunting at first, but foam core is really easy to work with. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
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Jerome Nowak

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jljone0 wrote:
jnowak415 wrote:


Oh, wow, thank you very much for looking!! Yeah, I was going to go to Wal-Mart for the foam core anyways, so yeah, Ill grab a couple boards, just in case, one of those snap off style utility knives, and a metal ruler. Less than 20 bucks should equip me fairly well.


No problem at all! Fair warning though - if you're anything like me, you'll do an insert for just this one game, and then realize that you like it (and the process) so much that you need to do one for all your games.

In all seriousness, it may seem daunting at first, but foam core is really easy to work with. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!


It has been pretty intimidating, whenever I think about doing one. And you're probably right, Im going to love to process and more importantly, the end product.

I thought about doing one of Star Wars Rebellion, but was able to use a couple Planos and Deck Boxes, and it works out PERFECTLY.

Elder Sign has been bugging me, because I dont know what to do with the cards, besides bagging them, and I really dislike baggies. So Im thinking that if I can successfully pull off making one for MoM2e, then Elder Sign should be a piece of cake!

I will definitely look ya up, if/when I run into some troubles! Thanks!

 
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Jay Jones
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jnowak415 wrote:


It has been pretty intimidating, whenever I think about doing one. And you're probably right, Im going to love to process and more importantly, the end product.

I thought about doing one of Star Wars Rebellion, but was able to use a couple Planos and Deck Boxes, and it works out PERFECTLY.

Elder Sign has been bugging me, because I dont know what to do with the cards, besides bagging them, and I really dislike baggies. So Im thinking that if I can successfully pull off making one for MoM2e, then Elder Sign should be a piece of cake!

I will definitely look ya up, if/when I run into some troubles! Thanks!



To be honest, I think I love the process even more than the end product. It's quickly become my absolute favorite way to unwind.

I haven't made one for MoM yet (I'm waiting for the expansions to see how much I can cram into the box), but I have tackled Elder Sign. My disdain for baggies was the driving force behind tackling foam core inserts. It's so much nicer to be able to just pick up the cards and lift out a tray for bits than dump everything out of baggies into the middle of the table.
One other tip that you'll also discover from the Esoteric Order videos - sewing pins. If you have access to some, it's unbelievable how much easier and quicker they make the process of gluing the pieces together. Walmart also has boxes of them super cheap, if they fit into your budget.
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