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Subject: My Homemade Kingsburg "Deluxe Edition" rss

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Luke Matthews
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I’m a fiend for upgrading game components. I love making foamcore inserts, adding metal coins and making custom boxes for game components and card games. All of this came together over the last several months when I started a project to upgrade the supremely upgradeable components of one of my favorite dice-placement games, Kingsburg[/b. Now I have my own, hand-made [b]Kingsburg Deluxe Edition.

If you want to skip all the blabber, feel free to just hit up this gallery of pretty pictures.

The first, and easiest, upgrade was to buy the first Stonemaier Games Treasure Chest, specifically for the stone, wood, and gold tokens.



(Side Note: the “ore” tokens in this set are *perfect* replacements for the silverlings in Castles of Burgundy. I still haven’t figured out what to do with the bricks and gems.)

Along the same lines, I also bought these sets of custom Kingsburg dice,



Which also came with these faction power cards.



Next, I mounted all the player boards. Something bothers me about card-stock player boards. I used to laminate them, but once I discovered I could just mount them to chipboard - like I did for my copy of Quadropolis – I’ve started doing it for all games that come with flimsy boards. I did the same for Kingsburg for both the extended player boards…



and the alternate building rows.



You’ll note I didn’t mount the original player boards from the base game, because they’re redundant when you have the extended player boards from To Forge a Realm. If players want to play with only the original building rows, they can just cover the extended building rows like this:



From the first time I played this game, I always wanted the +2 tokens to be actual tokens that look like dice with only 2s on every face. So I hand-made these.



They’re just white wood cubes with pips painted on. I like them better than the standard chits, but they’re probably my least favorite upgrade in this set. I’ve got a friend with access to a good 3D printer, so I’m going to have him 3D print some nice looking +2 dice tokens.

One of the things that’s always bothered me about Kingsburg is that the building markers can, at times, be a bit hard to see, especially from a distance. At least with my shitty eyesight. So, I replaced all the building markers with these wooden pawns from Spielmaterial. Here’s what they look like in play.



I ended up having to buy white pawns and paint them myself, because Spielmaterial was out of a few colors. I could’ve just bought different shaped pawns, but I really liked this particular shape after seeing the 1st Player marker from Caverna, so I went through the extra hassle.

When I picked up the To Forge a Realm expansion, the very first thing I thought was that the Soldier tokens were just begging to be poker chips, especially after seeing the chips in Splendor. So I made them into poker chips

While I was surfing for pawns to turn into building markers, I ran across these label pawns by Rolco Games. After making the poker chip Soldier Tokens, I realized I could apply the same process to some of these pawns to make new player markers. Here’s what they look like on the board:



All that was left was to make a bunch of custom boxes, using variations on the method I posted a few months ago. I made boxes for:

All the cards,



The alternative building rows,



The resources,



The white dice and +2 counters,



(Both of which are designed to sit directly on the board)



and the player materials.



Here’s another shot of the player pieces.



You might be wondering if this all fits in the box. It absolutely does.



Last, here are some pics of a mock game set up in full:















I had a ton of fun creating this “Deluxe Edition” for one of my all-time favorite games. There are few other games out there with so many components that just scream to be upgraded. Maybe that’s a flaw in the original component design, I dunno. Whatever the cause, it led to an awesome DIY project for me. Hopefully you guys enjoy the pics.
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PJ Cunningham
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thumbsupthumbsupthumbsup FANTASTIC JOB. thumbsupthumbsupthumbsup

GeekElite wrote:
From the first time I played this game, I always wanted the +2 tokens to be actual tokens that look like dice with only 2s on every face.

Making +2 cubes is my favorite upgrade idea from your post. I love it.

GeekElite wrote:
I replaced all the building markers with these wooden pawns from Spielmaterial.

While we're dreaming, perhaps tiny 3D-printed medieval buildings would be even better? As you play, your player board would start to look like a real city.

GeekElite wrote:
the Soldier tokens were just begging to be poker chips

I'm thinking of getting some cheap 25mm soldier minis, painting them in player colors, and putting the secret values under the bases.

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Trevor
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Wow, this is beautifully done.







Make me one please? meeple
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Kris Jamieson
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WOW

this is something that really makes the game pop like never before

Looks really amazing
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Luke Matthews
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ironregime wrote:
thumbsupthumbsupthumbsup FANTASTIC JOB. thumbsupthumbsupthumbsup

Making +2 cubes is my favorite upgrade idea from your post. I love it.

Thanks!

ironregime wrote:
While we're dreaming, perhaps tiny 3D-printed medieval buildings would be even better? As you play, your player board would start to look like a real city.

That would be pretty cool... but way beyond my design capabilities.

ironregime wrote:
GeekElite wrote:
the Soldier tokens were just begging to be poker chips

I'm thinking of getting some cheap 25mm soldier minis, painting them in player colors, and putting the secret values under the bases.

I thought about something similar, but I like having them in disk form so you can pick up the whole stack and select one secretly. I guess you could do that with figurines, but they'd all have to be the same so players wouldn't know what number is associated with each mini.
 
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Jason
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wow

Bravo! I'm inspired!
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Russ Temple
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Damn. Now I wanna play some Kingsburg!
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Derek H
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GeekElite wrote:
ironregime wrote:
While we're dreaming, perhaps tiny 3D-printed medieval buildings would be even better? As you play, your player board would start to look like a real city.

That would be pretty cool... but way beyond my design capabilities. .
\
6mm wargaming terrain manufacturer's are your future friends. I mean, you have spent so much already - what's a few more!?
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Drew
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This is just awesome and I plan on borrowing your idea to mount flimsy player boards.
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YOU ARE MY HERO.
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Pauly Paul
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Wowsers. That's amazing!
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Lawrence
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Amazing. I've only started making your boxes using your method, so the going is slow. I hope to have the quality of mine on par with yours someday. Aligning the wraps to have coherent text between the bottom and lid is proving difficult.
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Luke Matthews
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SoundCity wrote:
This is just awesome and I plan on borrowing your idea to mount flimsy player boards.

It's super easy to do, especially if you don't care about the image on the back. With Kingsburg it was simple, because the player boards are just black on the back, so I didn't need to bother with a backing image.

It's a little more difficult if you have two-sided boards (like Quadropolis or Castles of Burgundy), because now you have to scan and print an image for the back and mount both layers. I still do it, it's just much more time-consuming.

If the game has just an image on the back of the boards and you don't care about it, it's just as easy as with Kingsburg. Sometimes I'll still spend the energy to scan and print backs for those boards, like I did with Dead of Winter and AquaSphere.
 
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Luke Matthews
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mavericklancer wrote:
Amazing. I've only started making your boxes using your method, so the going is slow. I hope to have the quality of mine on par with yours someday. Aligning the wraps to have coherent text between the bottom and lid is proving difficult.

Here's how I do it:



If this image is too small to see what I refer to, here's a link to the full-size image.

So, in the image above, the RED lines are where the wrap will be cut, and the GREEN lines are folds.

When you're creating the images for the sides of the box, determine the full size of the side you want the image/text on. In this example, the size of the long sides of this box are 284mm x 42mm (the bottom and lid are each 21mm tall). Create a complete image with text included at that size. The image will end up being cut in half.

I apologize if this next part is confusing - it's hard to describe - but hopefully the image can help clarify how it's done.

On the final wrap, you want to take that side image you created and align its edge with the appropriate side of the top or bottom image. On the lid, for example, the TOP edge of the image is aligned with the top of the box. This means that the bottom part of the image will be cut away when you're cutting out the wrap.

Do the opposite for the bottom of the box. Take that completed side image and align its BOTTOM edge with the edge of the bottom image (dear god that wording sucks), the reverse of what you did for the top.

You'll have a lot of extra image hanging off the perimeter, but all of that will be trimmed away.

The image above is the template for the wrap for this box:



I hope this makes sense. One of the reasons I haven't created a tutorial about this part is simply because I haven't developed how I would actually describe it. But hopefully the combination of the text and image can help you out.
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Ben Waxman

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Love the dedication and attention to detail!
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James Parsons
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Goodness, this is absolutely beautiful. Well done!
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Lawrence
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GeekElite wrote:
I hope this makes sense. One of the reasons I haven't created a tutorial about this part is simply because I haven't developed how I would actually describe it. But hopefully the combination of the text and image can help you out.


Thanks! That post actually helps clarify. I think all I need are a few tweaks to my template and I'll be set to try again.
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Luke Matthews
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mavericklancer wrote:
GeekElite wrote:
I hope this makes sense. One of the reasons I haven't created a tutorial about this part is simply because I haven't developed how I would actually describe it. But hopefully the combination of the text and image can help you out.


Thanks! That post actually helps clarify. I think all I need are a few tweaks to my template and I'll be set to try again.


I'm glad I could help! I can try to answer questions, too. If you have any more, feel free to geekmail me.
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