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Subject: DIY Cards rss

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Jet Flight
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Hello together,

I know this is another thread on diy cards but i was looking all day yesterday and i could not find the answer I needed. The one thing I did find ones a tutorial (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0t6PBypahI). I really love the methods especially the second one. At first I thought this not gonna be too difficult but I soon discovered that find the material he used in Germany is really difficult. I looked for alternatives and found normal printer paper with 200gsm and 300gsm. Is this a decent paper to print on and the use ? Or would these need another after treatment or are just not the right paper? If I can use them should I use the 200gsm or the 300? I added both amazon links for the paper at the bottom.

I could not figure out what program he used in the tutorial to print 9 cards with cutting lines. Does anyone know that program or has a nice idea how to set up a page to print 9 cards at a time. Most of the tutorial I found there all show how to create cards I the right sizes and then upload them to some manufacturing company but not how to print them at home. I tried photoshop, but this program only allows me to print one file at a time, inkscape I looked into but not getting the hang of it yet. The closet I got was making a table in word and then placing the images inside. But the quality and accuracy is not that good.

Hope you have some nice tips for me so im not sitting around frustrated at home tonight ^^
And sry for my bad English,

Jet


Links:
https://www.amazon.de/Mondi-Farbkopierpapier-2382010051-geri...
https://www.amazon.de/Mondi-Color-Copy-Papier-Blatt/dp/B002V...
 
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Andrea Nand
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Jet Flight wrote:
I could not figure out what program he used in the tutorial to print 9 cards with cutting lines. Does anyone know that program or has a nice idea how to set up a page to print 9 cards at a time. Most of the tutorial I found there all show how to create cards I the right sizes and then upload them to some manufacturing company but not how to print them at home. I tried photoshop, but this program only allows me to print one file at a time, inkscape I looked into but not getting the hang of it yet. The closet I got was making a table in word and then placing the images inside. But the quality and accuracy is not that good.

You can try with nanDECK:



Download page: http://www.nand.it/nandeck

And there is a guild for it: nanDeck Users
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Luke Phillips
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From the video it looks like he's using 250gsm in method 2 but 300 gsm should be fine for single layer cards. I think 200 would be too thin.

Personally I use the first method but instead of a magic card I print 2 layers (front and back) on 200gsm and sleeve that in clear sleeves. The deck is thick but it is functional.

As for software I use Inkscape mainly
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Jet Flight
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n_and wrote:
You can try with nanDECK:



Download page: http://www.nand.it/nandeck

And there is a guild for it: nanDeck Users


This Looks really good and the tutorial is really helpfull. Im at work right now but will defiently check it out at home. There is probably a way to Change Card sizes, but is there an Option to insert cutting lines? The Tutorial did not Show anything. Probably there are other tutorials for more in deapth guide.

lukerazor wrote:
From the video it looks like he's using 250gsm in method 2 but 300 gsm should be fine for single layer cards. I think 200 would be too thin.

Personally I use the first method but instead of a magic card I print 2 layers (front and back) on 200gsm and sleeve that in clear sleeves. The deck is thick but it is functional.

As for software I use Inkscape mainly


I will defiently get some 300 gsm aswell then. Just bought the 200gsm yesterday. Found some sleeves on Amazon.de but there so many diffrent brands. Maybe i will just buy one and hope they are good.
For inkscape do you have a template? I tried using it yesterday witha tutorial but he had to drag every Image of your Card sepreatly into one sheet to print afterwards.
 
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Olivier POYEN
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BoardGameMaker:

https://boardgamegeek.com/article/21368877

http://screencast.com/t/iFUcKJiYQnlS

And the page with all screencast:
https://github.com/opqopq/BoardGameMaker/wiki/Board-Game-Mak...
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Luke Phillips
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Jet Flight wrote:
For inkscape do you have a template? I tried using it yesterday witha tutorial but he had to drag every Image of your Card sepreatly into one sheet to print afterwards.


Inkscape is more of a general purpose tool really but here you go

A4 Paper -> poker sized cards (actually they are .5 mm thinner which makes them easier to sleeve.

You should be able to drag the images onto the page from explorer (you can do them all at once btw) then make sure "snap to guides" is on and resize the cards within the blue guide corners.
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Chris Laudermilk
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I've watched that video, then found this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WyMVRJu5yQ4&list=PLhyhUgYzVt....

I use method 3. When using his template (the folded, 4-up layout), it's actually not all that hard to make the cards. Front-to-back registration is really easy to nail this way and the cards I've built with this method are as near to professional-feeling cards as I can reasonably expect to get DIY-ing.

For software, I'm using Inkscape. I'm still new at it, but go familiar enough to use Jake's template. My next step is tweaking it for different size cards & possibly for a general 2-sided counter sheet.

For materials, I just posted in the other DIY cards thread currently active:
claudermilk wrote:
For the card stock, I found Canford paper at the local art supply place. They have a website & online sales, too. Here is the exact paper I've used so far: http://www.artsupplywarehouse.com/prodDetail.php?id=7391. They also have white (http://www.artsupplywarehouse.com/prodDetail.php?id=7397). This paper is really stiff and thin for the weight rating (150gsm/90#). I also tried the Wassau 65# stock that Target carries (http://www.target.com/p/wausau-75ct-8-5x11-white-premium-car...); but I found that--unsurprisingly--it had less snap & stiffness to it, and somewhat of a surprise was it ended up being a bit thicker than the Canford. So, while the Canford is a bit pricier, that is what I will use for card cores until I find something better (and not a exorbitant as the "real" card core material that one site sells).

Here's a comparison picture I took a while ago:

From left to right: Wassau 65# core, Canford 90# core, professional cards (Goblin's Breakfast--feels like ArtsCow stock). Also, my cards use 24# or 32# linen paper for the faces (what the local print shop stocks), and the pro cards are smooth finish.

I honestly like my Canford-core cards best of that image. Except for the bit of sticking that this thread was stared about.
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Jet Flight
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Thank you, for all these amazing tips...

I wish i had asked yesterday already. I would of saved a frustrating day.

Cant wait to start trying some of the suggest tips
 
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Andrea Nand
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Jet Flight wrote:
This Looks really good and the tutorial is really helpfull. Im at work right now but will defiently check it out at home. There is probably a way to Change Card sizes, but is there an Option to insert cutting lines? The Tutorial did not Show anything. Probably there are other tutorials for more in deapth guide.

Since nanDECK is scripted, for every setting there are only some lines to be added, with these you setup the page size and card size (in cm, but you can use inches with a line UNIT=INCH):

PAGE=21,29.7,PORTRAIT,HV
CARDSIZE=6,9


With this line you add rounded borders (black #000000) for the card and cutting lines (red #FF0000):

BORDER=ROUNDED,#000000,0,DOTTED,#FF0000

This is the result (half page):



If you want a separation between each card:

GAP=0.5,0.5

Result:



A variation (a line in the middle of each gap):

GAP=0.5,0.5,ON

Result:

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Lawrence
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claudermilk wrote:
I've watched that video, then found this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WyMVRJu5yQ4&list=PLhyhUgYzVt....

I use method 3. When using his template (the folded, 4-up layout), it's actually not all that hard to make the cards. Front-to-back registration is really easy to nail this way and the cards I've built with this method are as near to professional-feeling cards as I can reasonably expect to get DIY-ing.


This +1.

Inkscape is by far the most intuitive and easiest tool. It has a very user friendly interface that doesn't require you to learn any coding. The method 3 in the video posted above also makes matching backs and fronts INCREDIBLY easy. The additional layers created by using the sandwich style also give more "snap", which is important when shuffling.
 
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Jet Flight
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mavericklancer wrote:
claudermilk wrote:
I've watched that video, then found this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WyMVRJu5yQ4&list=PLhyhUgYzVt....

I use method 3. When using his template (the folded, 4-up layout), it's actually not all that hard to make the cards. Front-to-back registration is really easy to nail this way and the cards I've built with this method are as near to professional-feeling cards as I can reasonably expect to get DIY-ing.


This +1.

Inkscape is by far the most intuitive and easiest tool. It has a very user friendly interface that doesn't require you to learn any coding. The method 3 in the video posted above also makes matching backs and fronts INCREDIBLY easy. The additional layers created by using the sandwich style also give more "snap", which is important when shuffling.


Gonna get the 200gsm and the 300 gsm paper tomorow... Do you think i can use the paper when wrapping my normal sheet of paper around to stiffen it? He uses some kind of black cardboard for that. Need to check if i find a gloss spray can too dont think i have one laying around for that methoded
 
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Chris Laudermilk
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Sure. I even use the same basic method for double-sided counters, so 200 or 300gsm paper shouldn't be any worse than the lighter stuff. Just make sure to leave that 2mm or so margin at the fold.

The card stock I linked to earlier is black. For thicker material, probably picture framing mat would be the easiest to get.
 
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Jet Flight
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claudermilk wrote:
Sure. I even use the same basic method for double-sided counters, so 200 or 300gsm paper shouldn't be any worse than the lighter stuff. Just make sure to leave that 2mm or so margin at the fold.

The card stock I linked to earlier is black. For thicker material, probably picture framing mat would be the easiest to get.


Tried to make my first card, the first problem i had was that i dont think my super glue spray does not hold the paper and the gloss spray i used more or less made the glue even worse and the handling did not go any better.

I used the 300g printer paper for the middle and normal 80g printer paper to print on

P.S. the ink scape works for the cards perfect... gonna try the other one soon so i can import stuff from excel
 
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Lawrence
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Jet Flight wrote:

Tried to make my first card, the first problem i had was that i dont think my super glue spray does not hold the paper and the gloss spray i used more or less made the glue even worse and the handling did not go any better.

I used the 300g printer paper for the middle and normal 80g printer paper to print on

P.S. the ink scape works for the cards perfect... gonna try the other one soon so i can import stuff from excel



A few things:

- Make sure you clear coat your cards BEFORE you glue them. Allow the clear coat to set (anywhere from 5 minutes to 4 hours depending on your brand). Some clear coats have solvents in them that will interact negatively with some glues.

- Make sure you are starting your spray off the page and ending off the page so you get full spray coverage.

- Don't soak the pages when spraying. You only need a light coat if your product is good enough.

- What brands of products are you using?

- Printer paper will not feel as good as something like linen.
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Chris Laudermilk
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What Lawrence said.

First, spray the coating on. I hang mine for two hours (I use small pieces of painter's tape stuck to waste edges), then let them sit overnight. Right now I'm using Krylon Crystal Clear Gloss. I'm going to look at the Minwax Polyurethane that others have mentioned having success with.

Next, spray glue. I use 3M 45, but Super 77 works as well. Again, just a light coat. Carefully stick to substrate, using a bone folder to smooth as necessary. I then press the glued up sheets overnight.

For all the spraying, I have an old shipping box as my "spray booth" and lift the pages off the bottom on some scrap tiles. Also when spraying, stay about 12-18 inches from the paper.
 
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Jet Flight
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I probably sprayed too much :/ need to give it another try.
I am using Montana Gold i have laying around here, used to try some spraypainting a few years ago

https://www.montana-cans.com/en/spray-cans/spray-paint/gold-...

Im using the transparent gloss color. Even though mien just says acrylic and not nc acrylic i think it suppose to dry fast
 
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Jet Flight
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n_and wrote:
Jet Flight wrote:
This Looks really good and the tutorial is really helpfull. Im at work right now but will defiently check it out at home. There is probably a way to Change Card sizes, but is there an Option to insert cutting lines? The Tutorial did not Show anything. Probably there are other tutorials for more in deapth guide.

Since nanDECK is scripted, for every setting there are only some lines to be added, with these you setup the page size and card size (in cm, but you can use inches with a line UNIT=INCH):

PAGE=21,29.7,PORTRAIT,HV
CARDSIZE=6,9


With this line you add rounded borders (black #000000) for the card and cutting lines (red #FF0000):

BORDER=ROUNDED,#000000,0,DOTTED,#FF0000

This is the result (half page):



If you want a separation between each card:

GAP=0.5,0.5

Result:



A variation (a line in the middle of each gap):

GAP=0.5,0.5,ON

Result:



Hope you can help ones more. I just started importing my excel sheet with nanDeck. Works great except for my Card Discription. In the discription I have a name written in parenthesis which represents an icon that should be displayed. Is there a possibility?
 
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Andrea Nand
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Jet Flight wrote:
Hope you can help ones more. I just started importing my excel sheet with nanDeck. Works great except for my Card Discription. In the discription I have a name written in parenthesis which represents an icon that should be displayed. Is there a possibility?

Use HTMLIMAGE to define the association between the name and the image, and show the text with HTMLTEXT.

Example ("money.jpg" must be in the same folder with the script):

FONT=Arial,12,,#000000
HTMLIMAGE=1,(money),money.jpg,0.5,0.5,P
HTMLTEXT=1,"Use (money)(money) to activate the power.",0,0,100%,100%,#FFFFFF,0,TE


Result:

 
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