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Subject: Putting just a black wash on minis. rss

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Frank La Terra
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So a while (years) ago I sprayed some black GW undercoat on my descent 2nd ed hero figures in order to paint them. Then reality struck and I realized I never would get to painting them as my 2nd ed figure collection grew.

So instead of having black heroes I decided to try and strip the paint off. After simple green failed me Dettol came to the rescue and stripped the black off. But not 100%, the cracks, crevices and hard to reach places still have some black in them which i can't seem to scrub out.

However I'm not sure this is a bad thing - they have black outlined washed look which brings the mini's details out very nicely. Problem is my OCD goes off because the rest of my collection don't match.

Which brings me long windedly to my question - how do I get this effect on the rest of my figures short of spraying them black and stripping the paint (highly inefficient!) Has anyone tried putting a black wash straight onto a naked figure? Did it work? What did you use as a wash? any other tips?
Or do I simply keep scrubbing?
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Chris Geggus
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I've not attempted this method as yet, but I would try a thinned down black wash applied 3 or 4 times on top of the previous one. Allow to dry in between applications. The repetition takes care of the lack of undercoat (but keep the figures grease free).

I would be looking for subtlety with this method, but in that case it rather depends on how obvious your existing application is. If you have a very strong black residue my suggestion may be pushed to match. Your call I'm afraid without knowing your existing appearance.

BTW. Brush cleaner or turps always clears my numerous errors.

Good luck.

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Robert Wesley
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The black/dark applied is to convey 'depth'/'accent'/'highlight' with bringing out details and further 'envisualize' that unto the smallest portion of those.
 
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Dreux Barbier
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I did this with original Zombicide game minis. But I already had put on a light grey primer coat. (I don't know if that helps.)
I painted all of the runners, then got real. I didn't play the game any more, so I didn't want to paint the other 80 zombies. I put a wash on them so it would bring out the details (The grey was too blah). They would probably look better with highlights too, but I don't care about that game enough, especially since getting Z:BP, which we do get to the table. I was thinking about doing a wash on the BP zombie minis just to give them some detail ... the heroes are getting a real paint job.
 
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Derry Salewski
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I did it on the rebel fighters in armada with no real issues so far. Just used nuln oil probably.
 
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Martin V
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I recently got back into painting minis when I picked up Zombicide: Black Plague. I quickly remember how tedious and time consuming it was. I finished and I'm happy with the outcome, but would NOT want to repeat that process.

I considered the method you suggested, and tried it on a Reaper Bones figure I got, but never painted. I primed it with a flat white spray paint, and then used the Army Painter Quick Shade (Dark Tone). As mentioned, it brings out some detail, and I like it better than a base plastic mini.

Personally, I would say that priming followed by at least a shade coat would add to the aesthetic of the mini (and hence the game), especially if you're resolved to not take your painting project any further.
 
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Mister P
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Another method that will work is to undercoat the miniatures black with a spray and then drybrush them with a metallic colour. I am familiar with the citadel range so I would mention a darker metallic grey like boltgun metal and then possibly even mithril silver if it's still too dark. This would actually be quicker than stripping and you could also use metallics with different colour tones to differentiate heroes, baddies, different races etc.

Drybrushing is where you get a largish brush loaded with a colour and then rub most of it off onto some newspaper or something so that only a little residue of colour is still coming off the brush - like when a texta is running out of ink. You then rub the brush quickly over the details and the bits sticking out will pick up the colour while the corners and crevices will stay black. This is actually super easy to do. Practice on some crappier models before you go to your faves, just to make sure you've got the technique down. It will look heaps better than plain plastic. And will make the details more well defined than a wash which doesn't always settle in the areas you want it too.

To finish the effect, paint the bases again with chaos black (or equivalent) paint trying not to get it on their feet because a base with drybrush effect all over it will look nasty.

Edit - Sorry I should have also explained, putting a black wash straight onto plastic miniatures will not hold the paint. The wash will stick in some spots but will be very inconsistent. So either undercoat light and wash dark or undercoat dark and drybrush light (my suggestion for best results).
 
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Freelance Police
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BahdMufu wrote:
Edit - Sorry I should have also explained, putting a black wash straight onto plastic miniatures will not hold the paint.


Yep. Plastic is hydrophobic, so water-based solutions won't adhere to it. Prime the mini, then add the wash. D2E has three plastic colors: grey, red, white, so you could prime in these colors then wash, or just prime and wash only the heroes: http://cf.geekdo-images.com/images/pic2036020_md.jpg

You could always throw more money into painting and paint only one hero at a time, even if it takes a month. Gameplay won't be affected if you're missing a hero. Reaper has its first Learn to Paint Kit and will be releasing another one in a few weeks. FRPGames has the kits on discount, plus shipping. Reaper had an October promotion and free shipping but at MSRP.
 
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Frank La Terra
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Thanks all.
I've painted other games before (to an ordenary standard) - happy with the results but the reality is I just don't have the time.
Seems like I'm stuck priming if I want a quick wash? I was hoping to not have to prime.
 
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MURRUMBEENA
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I saw an LNoE that was "painted" with various colours of spray undercoat, then dipped and clearcoated. The effect was similar to what you describe, but annoying for us colorblind people because the undercoats were too similar. I could not distinguish the orange zombies from the green ones. But the minis looked good.
 
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Peter Karis
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Sam and Max wrote:

Yep. Plastic is hydrophobic, so water-based solutions won't adhere to it.


I've recently used the water based Vallejo paints straight onto gaming figures without any primer, and I haven't really had any problems with the adherence. But I'm not really looking for absolute perfection anyway, so your mileage may vary. What I've had problems with in the past, however, is the oil/petroleum/whatever based model paints such as Revell or Humbrol. They seem to react with the soft plastic minis, and especially if you apply a coat of varnish you'll get a perpetually sticky figure which will never dry.
 
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Mr Skeletor wrote:
Seems like I'm stuck priming if I want a quick wash? I was hoping to not have to prime.


Zenithal priming followed by a colored wash. Spray paint completely in black, then spray from an overhead angle a colored primer. Won't take any more time than primining in one color. Follow with a wash (Army Painter Quickshade in the eye dropper). That's how I did some monochrome zombies:

https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1270004/painting-tutorial-t...
http://www.miniaturemarket.com/searchresults?q=army+painter+...
http://www.miniaturemarket.com/searchresults?q=army+painter+...



Found a Descent painting blog. This is Army Painter color primer brown, followed by a red paint, then a black wash:

http://jon-theartofwar.blogspot.com/2011/11/descent-miniatur...



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MacKaris wrote:
I've recently used the water based Vallejo paints straight onto gaming figures without any primer, and I haven't really had any problems with the adherence. But I'm not really looking for absolute perfection anyway, so your mileage may vary. What I've had problems with in the past, however, is the oil/petroleum/whatever based model paints such as Revell or Humbrol. They seem to react with the soft plastic minis, and especially if you apply a coat of varnish you'll get a perpetually sticky figure which will never dry.


Well, just because it's hydrophobic doesn't necessarily mean you can apply directly to certain plastics. I think what you're describing are enamel paints. This painter says they have a chemical reaction to the plastic, which you experienced.

http://www.angelfire.com/mech/jinsaotome/PaintingTips.html

Some folks on a miniatures painting forum discussed painting without primer. I'm at the point where primer is part of the painting process. I did slap on some black wash onto a steampunk robot metal miniature with perfectly-fine-for-tabletop results, though!

http://privateerpressforums.com/showthread.php?52284-Paintin...

 
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