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Paul Liolio
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Hi guys! I hope this is the correct forum for this.
If not, mods, please move, thanks!


Anywhoo, I finally got around to starting a painting project, my first one(!), and my Last Night on Earth Zombies are looking great, at least I'm quite satisfied!

I've been using Vallejo's Model Color line of paints, and I think they're pretty nice. After priming with Spray on Duplicolor Sandable White, then putting on the Vallejo paints for a base coat, I washed with Citadel Wash, Earthshade.

Here's a picture at that point:




Now in the realm of paint on varnish/sealants (not interested in spray.. I'm too likely to make a blunder with it), what should I be looking for in a solid sealant?

I already have Vallejo's Acrylic Gloss and Matte varnishes.
I don't mind the gloss look, so I went ahead and painted on a layer of the Acrylic Gloss Varnish. I saw someone say something about putting on two layers, so I thought it wouldn't hurt, so I did that the following day, but I finger nail nicked one of the bases. Either it wasn't quite dry, or it's not as strong as I had hoped.

Anyway, I put two coats of the Gloss Varnish on. The person who said they do two layers of gloss, also so they finish it with a matte coat. Is that something I should do? Will that result in a nice hard coat that will withstand lots of handling? Is too many layers bad (aside from losing detail)? Should the layers be thinner?

I was painting the humans today (2 days later), and I noticed the zombies gloss coats feel a little sticky now... Why is that? Should I be looking at a sealant with polyurethane instead? I stopped in the local shop today and the owner said he seals with Pledge Floor Wax.

I'm overwhelmed, confused, but mostly worried about my little zambinos! (zombies)

In the thread about 'the dip' (which demonstrates the ease in painting and sealing miniatures for newbs), the thread creator talks about how solid that dip varnish coats the minis.. Lets his sons play with them. How you could back over them without damaging them.. THAT'S the kind of seal I desire.. How can I get that aside from using the colored wood varnish he uses? Is that having to do with polyurethane element, that makes it seal so good?

I could use a nice schooling on the subject if someone would care to advise me.



Thanks for your time and your tips!
 
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Helmut Apel
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That´s a very interessting question for me, too. Usually i coat my minis with Quick shade-Soft tone (Brushed, not dipped), which gives a very nice protection. But sometimes, especially for bright colors, it gives a dirty, muddy look and i would like to have the same kind of protection-layer, but completely transparent.
 
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Chris Robbins
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The Pledge/Future and equivalents are polish, not wax, a clear acrylic liquid. Think about what a floor polish has to endure. And a clear coat doesn't do a thing to your details.

Give each step plenty of time to dry. And when it's hard as a rock, you can tone down as much of the shine as you want with any matte finish you like. If handling during games reveals some shiny spot, that's all you need to touch up.
 
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Kevin Johnson
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TylerDax wrote:
That´s a very interessting question for me, too. Usually i coat my minis with Quick shade-Soft tone (Brushed, not dipped), which gives a very nice protection. But sometimes, especially for bright colors, it gives a dirty, muddy look and i would like to have the same kind of protection-layer, but completely transparent.


I use either the Quick shade (also brushed) or Ronseal Clear Quick Dry Satin varnish if I don't want the dulling effect. I then use a layer of Testors Dullcote for a matt finish. The Dullcote is available in brush-on form as well as aerosol but it's not so easy to find, at least in the UK.

You do need to give plenty of drying time, the Quickshade needs to be left overnight but the Ronseal is done within an hour. That's for normal UK weather, your local weather conditions can also affect drying times.
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Freelance Police
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Since this is your first project, don't bother sealing. You're going to get better.

LNOE miniatures are infamous for their tackiness. The tackiness is usually a result of reacting to one of the solvents in whatever was applied. After about nine months of still being tacky, my miniatures are stripped in the Super Clean.

Do you have any other zombie games? Unless you want to go through the crap I did with the LNOE miniatures, you're better off finding other miniatures to paint.
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Paul Liolio
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Sam and Max wrote:
Since this is your first project, don't bother sealing. You're going to get better.

LNOE miniatures are infamous for their tackiness. The tackiness is usually a result of reacting to one of the solvents in whatever was applied. After about nine months of still being tacky, my miniatures are stripped in the Super Clean.

Do you have any other zombie games? Unless you want to go through the crap I did with the LNOE miniatures, you're better off finding other miniatures to paint.


The LNOE miniatures? Like the plastic specifically used? Having primed an dpainted, and coated, with plenty of dry time in between, how could the last layer still be tacky?

That's what it is though.. It's tacky. If my fingers are warm and not dry, there's a stickiness when touching them.


So the Pledge Floor Polish works well?
I want a brush on, rock solid sealant.
 
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Helmut Apel
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Thanks Kevin, just ordered 250ml of Ronseal Clear Quick Dry Satin varnish from the UK. Now i´m curious how it will work out
 
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