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Mansions of Madness: Second Edition» Forums » General

Subject: Glue to keep minis on bases? rss

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Andrew Slater
Canada
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Anyone glue their minis to the bases yet? I haven't, and they just keep falling off. Should I glue these, or is this a bad idea?

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Christian Zemaitis
United States
New York
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I had to glue mine. Its really an absolute must. It makes setup time a lot quicker too.
 
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Anthony Ronda
United States
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I have. I used regular superglue, any variety that works on plastic should work. Do not get any glue on the top side of the base because it will discolor the plastic.
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Thomas Grogan
United States
Charlotte
North Carolina
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spiraljacobs wrote:
Anyone glue their minis to the bases yet? I haven't, and they just keep falling off. Should I glue these, or is this a bad idea?



I glued mine on with Gorilla Glue. Those things aint going anywhere.
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Andrew Slater
Canada
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Nice. Thanks guys. Will look at gorilla glue, and glue from the bottom.
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Dillon Flaherty
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Severna Park
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I glued mine with Gorilla Glue as well. Bunch of white residue on some bases afterwards but I could care less. Those damn rioters aren't falling off of their base ever again.
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FPV
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California
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I used super glue from The Dollar Tree. It works great.
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Soylent Green
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Minnesota
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Yup - Gorilla glue worked great for me.

One note though - make sure it dries in a relatively dry location - it can dry cloudy if it is humid where you dry.
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Ivelin Belchev
Bulgaria
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Same here - about half the figures refused to stay put on their bases. A tube of generic super glue fixed that.
 
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Chris P
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We don't have them glued down, but we should. They fall off about the third of the time we reach to pick them up. The "mob" monster always has the people falling off no matter what we do
 
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Martin Gallo
United States
O'Fallon
Missouri
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Gorilla Glue (and its ilk) requires humidity to cure. The more water available the more the glue expands, resulting in that cloudiness (bubbles).
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Jay Cockrell
United States
Sault Ste. Marie
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martimer wrote:
Gorilla Glue (and its ilk) requires humidity to cure. The more water available the more the glue expands, resulting in that cloudiness (bubbles).


The random fun things you learn while lurking through BGG cool
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Matthew M
United States
New Haven
Connecticut
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Glue works great, but from experience it makes transferring pieces to a new edition a bit of a pain.
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John Ibarzabal

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Sao Paulo
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I glued mine with PVA glue. I used very little, and it was enough to keep the minis in the base, the glue does not show up, and since it is PVA, i can easly remove it, if one day i want to paint the minis.

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Martin Gallo
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Mestre dos Magos wrote:
I glued mine with PVA glue. I used very little, and it was enough to keep the minis in the base, the glue does not show up, and since it is PVA, i can easly remove it, if one day i want to paint the minis.

In my continuing series of random adhesive facts (will any of them stick? I ask innocently) PVA has to be used carefully in this application as it is a water based mixture (with latex) and will cause paper to expand. Just a heads up.

One of my other hobbies is RC airplanes and I have learned that not all surfaces get along well with all adhesives. Many plastics are "allergic" to different adhesives! Styrene glue actually works by locally melting the plastic before curing so it is more of a weld joint than a glue joint. There are some glues that are closer to a braze than a glue. Material science!
 
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James
Canada
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Just wondering if small magnets would work
 
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John Ibarzabal

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martimer wrote:
Mestre dos Magos wrote:
I glued mine with PVA glue. I used very little, and it was enough to keep the minis in the base, the glue does not show up, and since it is PVA, i can easly remove it, if one day i want to paint the minis.

In my continuing series of random adhesive facts (will any of them stick? I ask innocently) PVA has to be used carefully in this application as it is a water based mixture (with latex) and will cause paper to expand. Just a heads up.

One of my other hobbies is RC airplanes and I have learned that not all surfaces get along well with all adhesives. Many plastics are "allergic" to different adhesives! Styrene glue actually works by locally melting the plastic before curing so it is more of a weld joint than a glue joint. There are some glues that are closer to a braze than a glue. Material science!


Thanks for the warning.. I used very, very little glue. It was enought to stick the mini to the bases, and the glue did not fall down the little whole into the chit.
 
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We apologise for the inconvenience
United Kingdom
Outside of the Asylum
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Not wanting to permanently glue them (eg. in case I wanna try different bases in future) and for fear of white marks, I'm avoiding superglue/gel. I briefly tried PVA but it wasn't holding well enough (maybe needed a better type).

So, since I had some to hand, I've been experimenting with using clear bathroom/kitchen silicone sealant.

It seems to stick just about well enough, but I suspect some of the minis may be tricky to hold in place while it goes off. It takes a little practice to discover how much to use.

It's easiest on minis with flat bases. For ones held purely by the peg (plus maybe an extra foot or two) I've filed the peg down to allow some of the sealant into the hole, and then added a blob to any additional feet/contact points with the base.

Because it dries clear, it's not really visible, though any excess can easily be wiped off (or even scraped/peeled off after drying). Take care not to get it on any paintwork though, as it seems to strip some of it if scraped off once it starts to set.

And of course, if needed, the minis can be pulled off of the bases with a small amount of force, and the sealant scraped off without damaging the minis or bases.

EDIT: Also, I'm not sliding the tokens into the bases till after they're glued (and wiped off any excess beneath the holes) & dried. It means we're using tokens for the minis I haven't painted yet, but gives me incentive to finish the rest!
 
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Martin Gallo
United States
O'Fallon
Missouri
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You can use a "third hand" to hold the figure in place while the silicone cures. It is essentially a clamp on an adjustable stand - Available at most good hobby store.

Yes, silicone will strip most paints and can "eat" some plastics but it sounds like the plastics in MoM are silicone safe. Whew.

You might be able to improve the effectiveness of PVA (and even CA) by cleaning and scrubbing the contact surfaces. Cleaning removed oils and mould release agents, scrubbing increases surface area.

Note that CA is pretty weak in sheer (twisting) and tension (pulling), so I try to avoid using it on plastic or metal minis. It works much better on porous surfaces. In cases where CA melts the plastic "a little bit" it is much stronger - If it melts the plastic a lot it is useless.
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We apologise for the inconvenience
United Kingdom
Outside of the Asylum
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martimer wrote:
You can use a "third hand" to hold the figure in place while the silicone cures. It is essentially a clamp on an adjustable stand - Available at most good hobby store.

Thanks! Not something I've come across before but they look handy enough to invest in one.
 
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Donald Papp
Canada
Edmonton
Alberta
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I don't like Gorilla glue for something like this because how much it expands is not easily controlled and can end up an eyesore. Unless there's some gorilla glue that's more appropriate than their usual expanding ones.

I used E-6000 which dries clear, gap fills, is a bit compliant (bendy) and doesn't expand or anything.
 
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Bruce Moffatt
Australia
Ipswich
Queensland
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I've done a considerable amount of research on this subject and the winning adhesive to use is Cyanoacrylate (Super Glue). Preferably the gap filling type as the mating surfaces aren't a perfect fit. If you use the normal superglue it will just take longer to set, but will hold quite well once cured.

Plastic model hobby cement WILL NOT WORK. It is designed for styrene plastic only (the base) not PVC (the figure).

IMPORTANT SAFETY TIPS (Thanks Egon...)
1. Trim the posts that go into the holes on the bases shorter, so they do not protrude into the token slot. They will shred the token, if the narrow base slot hasn't done that already. shake

2. Don't put the tokens into the slots until the glue has cured. chemical reactions/liquids and paper don't mix... or become permanent. Either way, it's bad.

3. If you find your figure comes adrift later, just reattach it with a small amount of thin superglue between the glue already applied and the figure. The extended 'toes only' foot of the witch and zombie figures are repeat offenders in my collection.

4. Superglue and cotton wool create an exothermic reaction, so use tissues for clean up, not Q-tips. Think CSI fingerprinting tank...surprise Use the corner of a tissue with liquid superglue. Capillary action will draw the adhesive into the paper if you get some in the wrong spot. Either that, or wait for the glue to cure and you should be able to scrape away any excess.
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