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Subject: Mounting Cheapass gameboards (and the like) rss

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Driver 8
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Any suggestions on what to do with certain Cheapass gameboards? In particular, I'm thinking of Vegas, but I suppose there are many other games that fall into that category.

I had thought about just using clear contact paper to keep the board pieces together while protecting the playing surface at the same time. But then, I wouldn't be able to fold the board up very well. Anyone else have any ideas?
 
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Steve R Bullock
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You could use foam board, available at most hobby stores or art stores. Spray the board lightly with spray adhesive from Wal-Mart and very carefully apply the paper board to it. If you MUST fold it, well, before you spray the glue gently take a razor knife and cut about half way through one side of the foam board. "Pop" it and the board will snap in half but not come apart. NOW spray and mount the gameboard on the UNCUT side of the foam board.

Is it factory? Naw.

Is it pretty good and quite funtional? Yeah.

Good luck, and use patience if you decide to try it.
 
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Gene
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I've made a few game boards. Usually print them out on card stock and them glue them to illustrator board, thick card board, or even to the back of an old Trivial Pursuit board. These all work fine. But, some game boxes just don't have any extra room to hold the thickness of the new board. So I started thinking about what I could use that would be durable enough but very thin (maybe about half the thickness of illustrator board).

For this kind of board I use a very thin peel and stick floor tiles for .20 each.
1)Printed out a copy of the Diamant board onto some card stock.
2)Peeled off the paper on the back of the floor tile (no need to add any glue). And just pressed on the card stock.
3)Trimmed the tile to the size of the board with a razor blade.

And in 3 steps you'll have a very thin and durable new board that only took about 2 minutes to make.


As for being able to fold the board; try electric tape on the back of the tiles. This will allow you to fold and unfold the new board.
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You could try two things. First, you could get a piece of plexiglass, lay out the board together on the table, and lay the plexiglass down on top of the board. That way, the board stays together, and you can still keep it in the envelope when you're done.

The second option is to use some spray glue to mount the board down to a thicker substance, like matboard (my backing of choice). After that, you could measure the length and width, find the midpoints, and cut the board down into four sections. You can then use some clear packing tape to create a hinge where the board would fold, but be careful and make sure that you're hinging the right portions so that it will fold correctly. If you do it correctly, you should have one hinge in the face-up side of the board over one half of the joint, and then the other hinges will be on the back of the board, running perpendicular to the one on the face-up side. Like this:



I've used this latter option when making my P&P Age of Steam maps, and it works pretty well. Due to the limitations of lining up the different printed images, the boards aren't perfect, but they're functional. I'll bet that using a board that's already cut perfectly would further reduce the errors in lining up the sections and making perfect cuts.

Do use a metal ruler and a rotary cutter if you choose option 2, though; the cuts will be straighter and cleaner that way.
 
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Driver 8
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Verkisto wrote:
First, you could get a piece of plexiglass, lay out the board together on the table, and lay the plexiglass down on top of the board. That way, the board stays together, and you can still keep it in the envelope when you're done.


Duh, I forgot I used to do this with wargame maps. I suppose that would be a cheap, clean option.
 
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Ayumi Hakase
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Many folks have reported that a horror game board I own tears like tissue when it's unfolded.

It's not tiles, but a big board with three folds. Apparently, it both tears into jigsaw pieces and separates into three layers. This is an expensive game, and a reprint.

How can I mount a big board and protect it? I checked local stores and foamcore is just too small. And I don't want to cut up the board to mount it on separate sheets of foamcore if I can avoid it.

I've bought a sheet of plexic to put over it, but this won't help if the bloody thing TEARS every time it's unfolded.

Any and all recommendations will be most appreciated.

 
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Jeff L.
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Has anyone tried mounting game boards to sheets of Tyvek? It's flexible, so it will fold, but it's extremely resistant to tearing.

It's used in construction as a wind and moisture barrier, so it should be available in sizes large enough for any board.

I haven't tried this myself, but I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't work.
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Paul Amala
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I typically use 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive. Follow the directions on the spray can though - it is a one shot deal! I have used clear contact paper to protect the board; that is a mixed bag. It is pretty easy to get bubbles and wrinkles that are hard to fix. And again that is a one shot deal.

Folding is a big problem. Personally I haven't gotten a satisfactory solution to that. I go with a modular approach used in many wargames: I make separate boards that just abut each other. The original PanzerBlitz came with these plastic clips about 6" long that are good for holding the maps edges together (the kind you still see on clear 8.5x11 presentation folders for holding paper sheet together).

But a better solution is just to stick the original map under a nice big sheet of plexiglass.
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Ayumi Hakase
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Two good ideas. Hadn't considered Tyvek and will investigate

Meanwhile, I will unfold carefully and use the plexiglass.

Thanks!
 
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