Jennifer

Oklahoma
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Just created this thread to house all the photos of the Ravenloft minis I am painting.

I just got the set of 42 figures a few days ago.
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Jennifer

Oklahoma
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First I started with Gargoyles -- did them earlier today.



EDIT: Steps I used:
1) Washed the three gargoyles with moisturizer free soap & water.
2) Shook off excess water and blew off most of the other water.
3) Let dry thoroughly.
4) Primed with grey automotive primer -- bought at auto parts store (cheapest).
5) Based entire Gargoyle with brush on black. Cheap $1 craft store paint.
6) After that dried thoroughly, I then lightly dry brushed on some warm medium grey all over.
7) After that dried, I then ligtened up that same warm medium gray I just used with Americana Snow White (another $1 craft store paint). I then very very lightly dry brushed onto the face (brown, nose, lips) as well as the top of ears, top of tips of wings, one of the knees, the hands, shoulders. [So basically I sourced the light from above going straight down -- I actually looked down from the top of the mini to see all areas that are seen by light coming from that direction (that's what I highlighted).]
8) Used some Folk Art Red paint for the eyes -- did about 5 coats or so, since I was laying it over black (to get it really red).
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Jennifer

Oklahoma
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Just started on the skeletons -- did one so far.
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Joke Meister
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Once you get them all done, hope you post some pictures of the minis being used in game as well!
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Brian M
United States
Thornton
Colorado
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Wow. The "stone" look of those gargoyles is excellent!
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Jennifer

Oklahoma
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Finished the Skeletons:



EDIT: Steps I used:
1) Washed the three skeletons with moisturizer free soap & water.
2) Used hot water in a pot (170F or so) to sit minis in for a few seconds to allow me to bend them back into shape. I then ran under cold water to set them.
3) Shook off excess water and blew off most of the other water.
4) Let dry thoroughly.
5) Primed with grey automotive primer -- bought at auto parts store (cheapest).
6) I then hit all the bone with Reaper Bone White. Did a couple coats.
7) Then I hit the shield, sword blade and rock with Espresso brown (a very dark dark brown almost black but brown) -- like an oreo cookie.
8) After everything dried, I then with a very lightly loaded brush lightly applied one coat of metallic Gunmetal ($1 craft store paint) to the blade and the inner and out rims of the shield, in spots here and there as if it was silver plating over a deteriorating rusting steel. Did the same with Metallic Gold on the outer center of the shield. I used both dry brushing and stippling techniques for the gunmetal and gold.
9) hit some spots on the sword and shield rim with a metallic silver (lighting than gunmetal) here and there.
10) AFter that dried thoroughly, I very lightly dry brushed on some Americana Burnt Orange over the blade and both sides of shield to give an overall rust effect. I also stippled on some very small areas for a concentrated rust effect.
11) dry brushed the oreo brown rock with a warm medium grey to bring out the stone's texture.
12) painted the hilt of the sword black.
13) cleaned up any lines with bone white and espresso brown.
14) After dry, I then applied Army Painter Soft Tone ink wash to all the bone areas.
15) painted the base black.
16) That's about it!
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Jennifer

Oklahoma
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Hard to research painting a wolf. Every time my dog sees a wolf on the screen she barks like mad having a fit lol.
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Kristopher
United States
Allentown
Pennsylvania
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These look AWESOME, Jennifer! Makes me want to paint my own. (However, they never seem to be on the board long enough for my tastes, to warrant spending the time painting them.)
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Neil Edmonds
United States
Washington
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Well done! Excellent work!
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Gary A
United States
Lakeville/Rosemount
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I wish I could paint.

They look great!
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Jason Gardner
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LA
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Please post what colors/techniques you used. Looking great!
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Jennifer

Oklahoma
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brewgeek wrote:
Please post what colors/techniques you used. Looking great!


Done, I updated both the Gargoyles & Skeletons with that info.

From now on, I'll share all the info for each one I post.

Keep in mind I am new to all this within the past months I'd love any criticism so I can continue to improve my painting skills.
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B-Rad
United States
South Carolina
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I wish I could pour 1/10 of your talent and experience into the painting I've done so far. These look amazing!

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Kristopher
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Allentown
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I jotted it down in my Risk campaign book. I always used to do that so I could replay my moments of glory over a glass of brandy in the sleeping quarters. --Arnold J. Rimmer--
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boardgamegeekess wrote:


Keep in mind I am new to all this within the past months


You're NEW TO THIS? I've been painting em for years and mine don't look this good!

edit: After reading through your techniques, I probably use too much paint. And probably don't do enough dry brushing of slightly different colors. After priming them - usually black, but sometimes I prime in white, (I also have a grey, but don't tend to us it) I tend to use three base colors: a base color, a shadow wash, and a dry brushed highlight. I probably don't do enough dry brushing with a slightly different shade. I tend to go with a sharp highlight contrast dry brush, and then mute that with a wash. Probably not the best.

I too use those cheap craft store paints ("It's not the paint that matters; it's the technique," I've always believed.)

I like the soaking of the skellys in hot water to bend them back into shape. I have few of the minis throughout the games that need re-adjusting. I'll have to try this. (And the cold water bath afterwards.)

Thanks for the tips! maybe I'll break these out and paint them!
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Neil Edmonds
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I do dry brushing as well, but since most board game miniatures are only low to medium quality, I don't get to do it as much as a I like. Washes and inks are good for telling me where I have to shade, but there's always clean-up work afterwords. A lot of my work didn't even use washes, I just adding the shading manually myself.

I use cheap paints too. You can check out my gallery to see what you can accomplish with them. I recommend quality miniature paints for metals since they tend to flow better. If you find metals too troubling to work with, you can fake it with grays and yellows with a technique I describe below.

The post highlighting with a light wash will definitely mute the colors and "reset" your drybrush work. I've used the technique to correct sections of models that I drybrushed too heavily (eg - the section looks more like I painted it the highlight color). I've found a pair of scenarios where the post highlight light wash can be very useful:

1.) If you paint a miniature bright yellow and then give it a medium brown wash you can fake gold really well. The same goes for steel / pig iron. Paint the miniature silver or gray and then use a black wash. A camera reveals the trickery, but with normally eyesight or tabletop level it looks great.



The whole sword here doesn't use any metal paints.




The blade here is gray. The armor is actual metal paint with washes and dry brushing applied.


2.) Black leather - a popular choice for many figures I've painted - can work really well if you paint the figure black, drybrush heavily with gray, and then do a light black wash. The trick to black leather is you need the gray to add some depth to the model, but you don't want it too gray, otherwise the outfit looks like it's charcoal gray instead of being black with reflected light.

Again, the camera here reveals the trickery, but with normal eyesight or tabletop level views, the color seems to "pop" and you are convinced it's truly a figure wearing black. I've found miniatures without this technique look dull and flat because there's no shading on black to indicate depth.





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Kristopher
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Allentown
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I jotted it down in my Risk campaign book. I always used to do that so I could replay my moments of glory over a glass of brandy in the sleeping quarters. --Arnold J. Rimmer--
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Cool!

Yeah, I actually have gold/copper/silver craft paints I bought. They don't actually look THAT good, believe it or not, but it always worked for me.

Most of the minis I have are metal ones. I've never painted the plastic ones like this. I've always added a tiny bit of diluted.... can't remember now. Is it floor polish? Or floor cleaner? One of the two - that I spotted on a Painting tips website somewhere, to thin the paint. Makes the paint flow a whole lot better than straight water.

(I'd post some pics of my figs, but my pictures always turn out crappy.)

edit: Here it is. Future Floor Finish (or something similar)
http://fortressat.com/index.php/up-your-game-toc/1185-the-bo...
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Neil Edmonds
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That Floor Wax is also good for creating washes. I do all my washes with Pledge Multicare Floor Finisher (not the cleaner).
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Jennifer

Oklahoma
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Thanks for all the complements, tips & photos! I am constantly learning new stuff!
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Jennifer

Oklahoma
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Just finished the spiders.



Washed & dried. Primed with automotive grey. Two coats black. Dry brushed Americana Burnt Umber on the brown spider then dry brush highlighted and painted joints with American Cocoa. For the blue spider I dry brushed on Folk Art Ultramarine Blue then dry brush highlighted & painted joints with a light blue (forget which). For the green spider dry brushed on Folk Art Thicket (green) and did joints along with dry brush highlighting with Americana Irish Moss. Eyes are AMericana Tomato Red.
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Jennifer

Oklahoma
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Lhowser wrote:
boardgamegeekess wrote:


Keep in mind I am new to all this within the past months


You're NEW TO THIS? I've been painting em for years and mine don't look this good!


Yep, sure am. Here is my first miniature I ever painted 10 months ago:
(pretty darn bad! took me forever to paint.. didn't know anything!)

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Gary A
United States
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I wish you lived near me so I could hire you!
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Kristopher
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Allentown
Pennsylvania
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I jotted it down in my Risk campaign book. I always used to do that so I could replay my moments of glory over a glass of brandy in the sleeping quarters. --Arnold J. Rimmer--
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I just bought 6 decks of the Custom Room Event cards for the three adventure games I have.

And now I'll probably end up painting them as well.
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