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Subject: New game face for an old board rss

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Thoma Mattox

Indiana
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I had a game that was old and lost all the pieces for years ago...though it had a GREAT board (size was perfect and nice and thick well built). I stripped the face paper and am wanting to print a new face.

1) Any idea how to glue the paper to the board in a manner that will last? Worried if I use the wrong glue it will crack or not fold well. I was originally thinking of a spray contact adhesive. Then thought that a very thin coating of waterproof wood glue may be better.

2) What kind of paper should I use. The original seemed to be wax coated or have some kind of other coating on it. I was thinking of using a spray lacquer coating.

anything I am not thinking of?????
 
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Rick Kanazawa
United States
California
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The PnP majority prefer using spray adhesive for the gluing, and then spray coat with a couple thin layers of semi-gloss acrylic to protect the face. Allow plenty of time between spray coats to air it out.

As for paper, I like using thick non-glossy photo paper to make sure that it's sturdy enough not to wrinkle or accidentally tear (I staple it down to a heavy cardboard backing when I'm spraying & drying). Photo paper for image sharpness. This adds a slight more material to the height of the board, but also makes it sturdier as well.

Best of luck to you.
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Thoma Mattox

Indiana
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Perfect...exactly what I was thinking. Though, would a thin layer of wood glue work better (long term) than spray?

And, how do you deal with the crease where the board folds?
 
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Rick Kanazawa
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None of my spray adhesive'd pieces have ever delaminated. I trust it more than wet glue.

I haven't used wood glue so I'm not sure how it reacts with chipboard. I have tried white glue and found that unless it's a very thin layer, what can happen is that the chipboard can soak up some of the moisture and cause the layers to expand so you end up with slightly puffed up spots. Totally ruins the game board because it doesn't lay completely flat after that. If your material is pretty dense (like heavy duty photo paper), then no problem. But if it's soft and porous like standard gray chipboard, then it might be prone to moisture damage. That's why people like spray adhesive. Plus, no drying time.

As for the fold, all of my boards fold back to back (not face to face inward), so I just use a strip of library tape (which is little different than heavy duty clear packing tape). You could use linen bookbinding tape if you want something more long lasting. Amazon carries both.
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Jake Staines
United Kingdom
Grantham
Lincolnshire
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twmattox wrote:
Though, would a thin layer of wood glue work better (long term) than spray?


PVAs will soak into the paper and make the fibres of the paper a) limper and b) move relative to each other more easily. This is the same mechanism whereby steam works its way into wood fibres and allows people to steam-bend boards, it's just easier with paper because it's already been broken up a lot since it was a tree.

What this means is that once you paste up a bit of paper with PVA glue - or any other 'wet' water-based glue - the paper will start to wrinkle and will be harder to get into place and accurately positioned and will be easier to tear.



The other thing that's nice about spray glue is that you can sometimes get away with laying your spray-glued new board down onto waxed paper, and then use that wax paper as a giant sticker backing to get the new board perfectly positioned before sticking the edge down and peeling back the wax paper backing.





If you have access to it and you're comfortable using it, you may also consider contact adhesive. It's solventy and a bit messy if you're not incredibly careful, but you can lay newspaper or printer paper or something down between the two halves and take your time lining up the new board properly, since contact adhesive doesn't dry out and become useless the same way a lot of glues do, then just stick down one edge and work the paper out from underneath your new board, sticking the board down as you go.



The easiest option is to just print the board out in pieces on label paper, and then trim the label paper to fit and stick it down jigsaw-like over the top of your old board.


twmattox wrote:

And, how do you deal with the crease where the board folds?


Lay the board down into position starting at one end, and move perpendicular to the fold so that you reach it all at once with the dropping 'edge' of your board. As you lay down over the fold, take a paper-folding tool or the round end of a knitting needle/crochet hook or a round-headed push pin stuck in some dowel or something like that and press the new-board paper down into the old-board crease to conform as best as possible to the surface of the old board. And make sure your glue is properly cured before you try and bend the fold at all, or it may just pop out of place.
 
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Thoma Mattox

Indiana
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Excellent advice everyone...thank you. Now to just get my niece to wrap up the prep and printing and I will be all set!
 
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