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Mansions of Madness: Second Edition» Forums » General

Subject: Help me put together a painting kit rss

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Jay
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Just picked up MoM a few days ago and am having a blast with the game! Browsing through here though I'm really jealous of all the painted figures I'm seeing so decided I would give it a try.

It's been easily 20 years since I last did any painting and I was hoping the community here could help me put together a "shopping list" on Amazon or something I could take to a local store.

I don't want to spend a bunch of money, it's tight right now, but I want to make sure I have the tools needed to make some, hopefully, kick ass figures.

So what brushes, paints, washes, primers etc would you recommend for painting MoM figures on a budget?
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Nigel Buckle
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Acrylics have really advanced in 20 years, you'll be surprised I think.

If you're prepared to mix your own colours then you can save quite a bit, as you won't need so many different shades, but of course it's much more of a pain to do.

Prep is wash the mini with soapy water, and you might want to clear up some of the flash lines (sharp scalpel, not a file). Then undercoat with white, grey or black - depending on the final colours.

If you decide what colours you're using you can limit the washes (probably just brown) too.

Brushes - medium for base coat, fine one for detail - and an old one for dry brushing. If you're going to wet blend you probably need two brushes (or an additive to slow drying time).
 
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Jay
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bucklen_uk wrote:
Acrylics have really advanced in 20 years, you'll be surprised I think.

If you're prepared to mix your own colours then you can save quite a bit, as you won't need so many different shades, but of course it's much more of a pain to do.

Prep is wash the mini with soapy water, and you might want to clear up some of the flash lines (sharp scalpel, not a file). Then undercoat with white, grey or black - depending on the final colours.

If you decide what colours you're using you can limit the washes (probably just brown) too.

Brushes - medium for base coat, fine one for detail - and an old one for dry brushing. If you're going to wet blend you probably need two brushes (or an additive to slow drying time).


Thanks for the tips and info. From a brand perspective is there anything in particular you recommend?
 
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Nigel Buckle
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I'm in the UK and usually use citadel (Games Workshop) quite impressed with their new range - base coat, shade, layer system.

But probably they're overpriced in the US (they're probably overpriced in the UK but so is everything else ...) you could look at Vallejo.

Thinking about it Vallejo might be good if you're mixing your own colours as their paints have a dropper system rather than a pot to dip your brush into. Get an old ceramic glazed plate as a palette to mix on.

Have a look on YouTube stacks of videos about miniature painting, techniques and different products.

Oh, and think about varnish/sealing the miniature when you're done, as they will be regularly handled. I mostly use matt but I've used gloss on the monster figures, the ones I wanted shiny/slimy
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J Smitty
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If you really want to do it, with minimal money spent, I suggest you buy a set of craft store acrylic paint tubes, and a small bottle of airbrush reducer. Use the reducer to make the paint thinner, and it works very well. For washes, get a bottle floor cleaner (Google mini wash with floor cleaner, and you'll find a few brands you can use.), mix the floor cleaner with water and the color of your choice.
Really cheap, and still gets nice results.
 
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Freelance Police
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Also see my profile for comments!

Reaper Learn to Paint Kits: https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1162642/reaper-bare-bones-l...
Army Painter Quickshade Ink set: http://taleofpainters.blogspot.com/2013/08/review-army-paint...
Cheap sable nail art brushes : https://www.amazon.com/Brushes-Professional-Sable-Brush-Deta...
Winsor and Newton size 00 (or whatever size): https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Kolinsky-Sable-Watercol...
Pink Soap: Michael's w/ 40% off coupon
Wet palette: DIY : https://minutiaeofwar.wordpress.com/2012/03/18/tutorial-the-...
Two rinse jars : https://massivevoodoo.blogspot.com/2016/01/tutorial-miniatur...

More advice: http://www.octopusoverlords.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=8...
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PAUL JOHNSON
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I would avoid games workshop paints. They are very expensive and the quality isnt the best. The pots are very fiddely and a real pain. Army painter and Vajello do starter sets with everything you need. The quality is great anf the dropper bottles are ver easy to use with less mess and waste
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Brian Bowles
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Back in the 70's and 80's I always used the Citidal & Vajello paints but they were expensive and hard to find short of mail order. For the past probably 15 years I have used the cheap $.50 paints from Walmart like Apple Barrel brand. I mix colors I can't find and I always prime my figures and clear coat. first gloss for protection then dull for most non "slimy" creatures. They always look good (to me) and hold up really well, plus I have a really nice & cheap paint collection that usually grows a bit with each visit to Walmart.

I also am a big fan of Minwax PolyShades Stain & Polyurethane in 1 step Antique Walnut as a wash for most of my minis. It does a great job of both protecting and bringing out the detail. It's also perfect for the shadowing of facial details on small minis.

I get my brushes from Hobby Lobby, making sure it has a 10/0 in the pack.
I get some really cheap ones for the PolyShades & some Dawn dish soap to clean them as the poly is oil based and Dawn cuts right through it.

Finally if you are over 40ish, you may want to look into a good set of magnifiers, they make painting detail a lot easier for older eyes. I use the jeweler style goggles for hands free use.
 
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MICHAEL MOHRING
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I just painted for the first time. Here's my thoughts.

Vallejo black.
Vallejo White
Vallejo basic flesh tone.
Vellejo dark flesh tone - you can use this for blonde hair and bats, shovels, etc.
Vallejo black wash, flesh wash and sepia wash.
Vallejo varnish matte or glossy.

A cheap kit of the rest of the colors from walmart or hobby lobby.
 
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Jay
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Follow up question for those who have painted their MoM minis. With a regular mini I would use mounting putty (Fun-Tak) to attach the base to camera film roll / pill bottle so that I could easily handle while painting.

Since the MoM minis don't have a built in base how did other people handle this? My intent will be to rebase the on Litko clear bases when they are done being painted.
 
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Peej65 wrote:
I would avoid games workshop paints. They are very expensive and the quality isnt the best. The pots are very fiddely and a real pain. Army painter and Vajello do starter sets with everything you need. The quality is great anf the dropper bottles are ver easy to use with less mess and waste


So true. I was tired of my Citadel paints always drying up due to how much air those bottles trapped once you closed them. shake

Vallejo and Army Painter dropper bottles not only make them last longer but they are also great for measuring colors to mix, in addition to the huge range of colors already available from them.

One drop here mixed with two drops there, etc., less guess work for getting the colors right.
 
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Ess Why
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I find a lot of good resources here at the painters guild:

https://boardgamegeek.com/guild/909
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Jared Quintana
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I primed mine off of the base.

I then glued the minis to their base then used putty to stick based mini to plastic soda caps for handling.

yes, paint will get on base but because base is black I would just paint over with black when done.

As to paints I have used cheap acrylic from store (not recommend after trying others, Airbrush acrylic (Wicked colors etc. from Hobby Lobby, not bad) and then started using Vallejo (found at hobby lobby near airbrush section). I really do like the Vallejo and will mix with inks and Airbrush acrylics to get right color. I have tried the tube acrylics and they are ok but you do have to reduce them first.

Also, I suggest making your own thinner/extender.

ingredients
Distilled water
Isopropyl Alcohol
Acrylic Thinner (I found this in airbrush section Model master had a version)
Gel retarder (Slow-Dri from Liquitex, you can find this in their acrylic tube section)

Mix them in a squeeze bottle (also found in paint section, I used a 5 inch squeeze bottle, they sell them in packs of 2 or three)

Mix in this ratio
1 part gel retarder
1 part Acrylic Thinner
2 parts Alcohol
3 parts Distilled water

(on side of bottle i did 7 tics at 1 cm apart then filled container to each tic, so 1 tic of gel retarder, 1 tic of thinner, 2 of alcohol and then the last water)

when you paint put a few drops of paint on mixer plate then add one or two drops of mixture. It will thin your paint and reduce the drying time. This helps as your paint won't dry as fast on the pallet and helps prevent the paint from clumping on the brush.

And the last thing, after your mini has dried, is to finish it with a sealer.

I like matte finish so I use Testors Dullcote.

make sure you wash and prime the minis first. I have used cheaper plastic primer and expensive ones too. The biggest thing I can say about primer is find flat matte. For some reason anytime I used semi-gloss or gloss primer the mini would stay sticky after painting.

Anyway, good luck.
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Jay
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So not MoM, but I did my first practice piece today and would love feedback!


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Jared Quintana
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Which paints did you end up selecting?

Overall it looks pretty good.

It looks like you did a wash. Did you do a dry brush after?
 
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Jay
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stenmur wrote:
Which paints did you end up selecting?

Overall it looks pretty good.

It looks like you did a wash. Did you do a dry brush after?


I'm using Reaper paints. The only shop that sells paints near me, 45 min away, carries the full line.

I used Army Painter Quickshade for the wash and did a little dry brushing on the fur and chainmail. Last night in the light the skin looked like it had more highlights, but today they've vanished so I will probably do a little more drybrushing today before I coat it with Testors Dulcote.
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Jared Quintana
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It can be hard to see details. In particular if the mini lacks it. I cannot tell if this one has fine details in the face etc...

It also looks like the fingers on the sword hand needs another wash to bring out individual fingers.

Last thing, the sword looks too "shiny". Did you do it straight silver? Try doing the sword in a gun metal (darker blackish with some silver). Then go back and only highlight the blade edge with some brighter silver.

Again, good job on your first ones.

Have you looked into flocking your bases? Or, are you going to keep them painted only. It depends for me, I sometimes add a flocked grass base.
 
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Jay
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stenmur wrote:
It can be hard to see details. In particular if the mini lacks it. I cannot tell if this one has fine details in the face etc...

It also looks like the fingers on the sword hand needs another wash to bring out individual fingers.

Last thing, the sword looks too "shiny". Did you do it straight silver? Try doing the sword in a gun metal (darker blackish with some silver). Then go back and only highlight the blade edge with some brighter silver.

Again, good job on your first ones.

Have you looked into flocking your bases? Or, are you going to keep them painted only. It depends for me, I sometimes add a flocked grass base.


The sculpted face is lacking in detail in general, but I could have probably done a better job with it as well. I also agree 100% on the fingers!

Good idea on the sword.

The bases will be left as is since this mini was for practice. The Mansions of Madness minis will be put on clear Litko bases.
 
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Jay
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Cultists are done and wanted to share.




I'll keep the thread updated as I finish other figures.

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Jay
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Paul
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I was thinking about a couple of the Vallejo paint sets; 1xPaint and 1xWash set. But now looking at the Army Painter Mega Set II. Looks to be a good deal and includes paint, washes and effects.
Anyone got any advice? Not painted anything for 20 years like the OP
 
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